LANDSCAPE 
GARDENING 

AS   APPLIED  TO 

HOME  DECORATION 


DEI    L&ry»«4/» 


SB  473 
M3 


Landscape  Gardening 

As  Applied  to  Home  Decoration 


BY 


Samuel  T.  Maynard 

Formerly  Professor  of  Botany  and  Horticulture 
at  the  Massachusetts  Agricultural  College 


Second  Edition]  Rewritten  and  Enlarged 
Total  Issue,  Nine  Thousand 

^ 


rORK 

JOHN  WILEY  &  SONS,  INC. 
LONDON:   CHAPMAN  &  HALL:   LIMITED 

1915 


Copyright,  1899,  19*5 

BY 
SAMUEL  T.  MAYNARD 


PRESS   OF 

BRAUNWORTH   &  CO. 

BOOK   MANUFACTURERS 

BROOKLYN.   N.  Y. 


To  the  thousands  of  home-makers  who  are  trying  to 
beautify  their  homes  and  thus  adding  much  to  our  already 
beautiful  and  prosperous  country  this  little  book  is  dedicated 
with  the  hope  that  it  may  aid  many  in  the  pursuit  of 
knowledge  of  the  most  beautiful  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants 
and  how  to  plant,  train,  and  care  for  them  so  as  to  get  the 
most  enjoyment  from  their  growth  and  cultivation. 


456113 


INTRODUCTION  TO  SECOND  EDITION 


THE  great  progress  made  in  the  past  fifteen  years  in  out- 
of-door  house  decoration,  the  large  increase  in  the  number 
of  beautiful  ornamental  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants  from  many 
parts  of  the  world,  and  the  very  great  increase  in  the  "back 
to  the  country"  movement,  make  it  desirable  that  this 
little  volume,  which  has  met  with  such  an  appreciative  re- 
ception, be  revised  and  brought  up  to  date.  The  Author 
has  therefore  revised  and  rewritten  much  of  the  text,  re- 
placed many  of  the  old  illustrations  and  added  a  great 
many  new  ones. 

He  has  had  the  assistance  of  many  specialists,  whose 
advice  will  add  much  to  the  value  of  the  volume. 

He  is  especially  indebted  to  Professor  A.  C.  Beal,  of 
the  New  York  State  College  of  Agriculture,  at  Cornell 
University,  for  the  revision  of  the  chapter  on  hardy  herba- 
ceous plants,  roses,  sweet  peas,  etc.;  to  Messrs.  Chas.  A. 
Green,  Henry  A.  Dreer,  Harlan  P.  Kelsey,  "The  Eastern 
Nurseries,"  and  others  for  loan  of  cuts  and  assistance  in 
obtaining  them;  to  Mr.  Frank  A.  Rugg  for  photographs, 
and  to  all  who  have  so  kindly  assisted  him  in  this  revision. 

vii 


INTRODUCTION   TO    FIRST   EDITION 


IN  no  country  in  the  world  are  there  so  many  well-to-do 
people  as  in  the  United  States,  and  so  many  who  own  com- 
fortable and  even  beautiful  homes,  and  on  every  hand  we 
hear  the  call  for  information  as  to  the  most  beautiful  decora- 
tive trees,  shrubs,  and  plants  and  their  proper  use  and 
arrangement  to  produce  the  most  pleasing  effects.  The 
enormous  trade  in  ornamental  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants 
among  our  nurserymen  is  an  indication  of  the  extent  of  the 
work  of  improvement  and  decoration  that  is  going  on  among 
our  people  and  the  consequent  need  of  knowledge  and  skill 
in  order  to  make  the  best  use  of  these  materials. 

The  agricultural  and  horticultural  press  of  the  country 
has  done  much  and  is  increasing  its  efforts  to  diffuse  the 
needed  knowledge.  The  nurserymen  and  dealers  in  orna- 
mentals by  their  catalogues  so  profusely  illustrated  and 
scattered  broadcast  over  the  land  are  also  helping  on  the 
good  work,  though  in  many  cases  by  their  undue  praise  of 
untried  novelties  they  often  lead  the  unskilled  planter  to 
make  serious  mistakes  and  suffer  great  loss. 

Landscape  gardeners  and  architects  have  played  a  large 
and  important  part  in  developing  the  great  beauty  seen  in 
so  many  of  our  country  and  suburban  towns;  the  great 
majority  of  our  people,  however,  those  in  limited  circum- 
stances who  are  straining  every  effort  to  pay  for  the  home 
they  are  building,  are  unable  to  avail  themselves  of  their 
often  costly  advice,  but  must  content  themselves  with  ob- 
taining from  other  sources  such  knowledge  as  will  enable 
them  to  properly  care  for  the  ornamental  trees,  shrubs,  or 

ix 


x  Introduction  to  First  Edition 

plants  that  they  may  be  able  to  procure,  and  to  so  group 
and  combine  them  with  the  lawn,  the  dwelling  and  other 
buildings,  and  with  the  surrounding  conditions  as  to  make 
not  only  a  beautiful  home-picture,  but  also  to  harmonize 
with  any  beautiful  homes  or  estates  adjoining  or  near  by, 
that  the  beauty  may  be  as  widespread  as  possible. 

While  thus  supplying  the  above  call  for  knowledge  in  a 
concise  and  practical  way  has  been  the  central  idea  in  the 
construction  of  this  book,  the  instructions  in  the  principles 
of  growth  and  care,  grouping  and  arrangement,  underlying 
successful  work  in  home  ornamentation  are  equally  adapted 
to  the  more  extended  work  of  decorating  large  estates,  parks, 
and  other  public  grounds,  and  some  few  hints  are  given  as  to 
the  management  of  public  squares,  school-yards,  cemeteries, 
the  construction  of  country  roads,  and  roadside  improvements. 

It  has  been  the  author's  aim  to  give  plain  and  simple 
descriptions  of  each  tree,  shrub,  or  plant  recommended,  to 
present  those  that  are  of  real  value  under  ordinary  condi- 
tions, and  to  give  full  and  careful  direction  as  to  soil  best 
adapted  to  the  growth  of  each,  and  the  special  care,  train- 
ing, pruning,  etc.,  required  for  their  best  growth. 

In  presenting  this  book  to  the  public  it  is  with  the  view 
of  supplying  the  knowledge  so  much  needed  and  sought  for 
in  a  practical,  condensed  form  that  shall  enable  the  home- 
owner and  -builder,  occupied  with  the  daily  cares  of  busi- 
ness, to  make  beautiful  his  surroundings;  and  the  author 
hopes  that,  after  more  than  40  years  of  experience  in  teach- 
ing and  practising  the  art  of  ornamental  gardening,  he  may 
be  able  to  fill  in  a  measure  this  long-felt  want. 

Many  imperfections  will,  no  doubt,  be  found  in  the  work, 
for  which  kind  indulgence  and  friendly  criticism  is  asked, 
that  such  imperfections  may  be  remedied  in  a  revised 
edition  at  an  early  date. 

S.  T.  M. 


TABLE   OF   CONTENTS 


PAGE 

INTRODUCTION \ .      vii 

CHAPTER  I 

LANDSCAPE  GARDENING  AND  HOME  ORNAMENTATION i 

Advantages  of  Home  Ornamentation.  Natural  vs.  the 
Artificial  System. 

CHAPTER  II 

ORNAMENTING  NEW  HOMES 7 

Conditions  of  Locations  Considered.  Secure  and  Improve 
Strongly  Marked  Natural  Features.  Location  of  Buildings. 
Architecture  of  the  House.  The  Cellar  and  its  Use.  Heating 
and  Ventilating  the  House.  Good  Water. 

CHAPTER  III 

PREPARATION  OF  THE  LAND 29 

Grading.  Making  the  Lawn.  Fertilizing  and  Care  of  the 
Lawn. 

CHAPTER  IV 

TREES — THEIR  PLANTING  AND  CARE 44 

Importance  of  Trees  and  Shrubs.  Improving  Old  Trees. 
Preparation  of  Trees  for  Planting.  Planting  and  Care  of 
Trees.  The  Arrangement  or  Grouping.  Rules  for  Grouping. 

CHAPTER  V 

SHRUBS,  HEDGES,  AND  HARDY  CLIMBERS 82 

Methods  of  Grouping.  Preparation  of  Land  and  Plant- 
ing. Pruning  and  Care  of  Shrubs.  Hedges:  their  Impor- 
tance. Pruning  and  Training  Hedges.  Hardy  Woody- 
Climbers:  their  Importance.  Planting  and  Care  of  Herba- 
ceous Plants:  their  Importance  and  Use.  Tender  foliage 
or  Flowering  Plants. 


xii  Table  of  Contents 

CHAPTER   VI 

PAGE 

WALKS  AND  DRIVES 95 

Importance.     Extent,  Width,  and  Distance.     Construction. 

CHAPTER  VII 

RENOVATING  AND  IMPROVING  OLD  HOMES 104 

Preserving  and  Improving  Old  Trees.  Renewing  Old 
Shrubs  and  Hedges.  Renovating  Old  Lawns.  Removal  of 
Fences  and  Walls.  Farm  Home  Decoration.  Combine 
Decoration  and  Forestry.  Fruit-trees  for  Ornaments.  Con- 
struction of  Farm  Roads. 

CHAPTER  VIII 

COUNTRY  ROADS  AND  ROADSIDE  IMPROVEMENTS 119 

Conditions  Necessary  for  Good  Roads.  Broken  Stone  Roads. 
Repairing  Roads.  Care  of  Roadside  Trees  and  Shrubs.  Road- 
side Decoration. 

CHAPTER  IX 

PARKS,  PUBLIC  SQUARES,  SCHOOL  YARDS,  ETC 124 

Suggestions  as  to  Parks,  Public  Squares,  School-yard 
Decoration.  Cemetery  Decoration.  Renovating  Old  Ceme- 
teries. Back-yard  Decoration. 

CHAPTER  X 

DESCRIPTION  OF  TREES 153 

Street  and  Avenue  Trees.  Upright  or  Round-headed  Trees. 
Weeping  Trees.  Trees  with  Deeply  Cut  Foliage.  Trees 
with  Colored  Foliage. 

CHAPTER  XI 

EVERGREEN  TREES 203 

Importance  in  Home  Ornamentation.  Transplanting  and 
Pruning.  Best  Varieties. 


Table  of  Contents  xiii 

CHAPTER  XII 

PAGE 

ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS 214 

How  to  Use  with  Best  Effect.  Transplanting,  Pruning,  etc. 
Best  Varieties  of  Evergreen  Shrubs.  Importance  of  Climb- 
ing Shrubs.  Best  Varieties  of  Climbing  Shrubs.  Hedge 
Plants.  Roses. 

CHAPTER  XIII 

HARDY  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS,  TENDER  BEDDING  AND  CLIMBING 

PLANTS,  ETC 273 

Transplanting  and  Care.  Best  Varieties.  Tender  Bedding 
Plants;  Best  Varieties.  Tender  Climbing  Plants;  Best  Vari- 
eties. Sub-tropical  Plants;  Treatment;  Best  Varieties. 

CHAPTER  XIV 

AQUATIC  PLANTS,  HARDY  FERNS,  AND  ORNAMENTAL  GRASSES  . . .  306 

Soil  and  Cultivation  for  Aquatic  Plants;  Best  Varieties. 
Aquatic  Border  Plants;  Best  Varieties.  Hardy  Ferns;  Use 
and  Care  of;  Best  Varieties.  Ornamental  Grasses;  Impor- 
tance and  Care  of. 

CHAPTER   XV 

INSECTS  INJURIOUS  TO  ORNAMENTALS 32° 

Amount  of  Injury  done  by  Insects.     Remedies  and  Preven- 
tives  from   Injury   by   Insects.     Insecticides   and   their   Use. 
Fungi   Injurious   to   Ornamentals.     Rusts,   Smuts,   Mildews, 
Blights,   etc.     Fungicides   and   their   Use.     Spraying   Pumps 
and  Nozzles  and  their  Use. 

CHAPTER  XVI 

THE  HOME  FRUIT  GARDEN 349 

Amount  and  Kind  of  Land  Needed.  Location.  Planting 
and  Caring  for  Fruit-trees  and  Plants.  Protection  from 
Insects  and  Fungous  Pests.  The  Best  Varieties  of  Each  Kind 
for  Home  Use. 


LIST   OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 


?IG.  PAGB 

Covered  Drive- Way,  Porte  Cochere Frontispiece 

1 .  Geometric  or  Artificial  Decoration 4 

2.  Natural  Arrangement  of  Rocks n 

3.  Natural  Arrangement  of  Rocks 12 

4.  Unnatural  Arrangement  of  Rocks 12 

5.  Natural  Water  View .  .  . 14 

6.  Underground  Overflow  of  Lakelet 15 

7.  Open  Overflow  of  Lakelet 15 

8.  Building  Arranged  at  One  Side  of  Lot 18 

9.  Method  of  Obtaining  Grade 31 

10.  Method  of  Obtaining  Grade 31 

11.  A  "Well"  about  a  Tree 31 

12.  Covering  Roots  on  One  Side 32 

13.  Improper  Grading 34 

14.  A  Well-graded  Lawn 35 

15.  Grading  to  Rounded  Surface 36 

16.  Grading  to  Rounded  Surface 36 

17.  Grading  to  Rounded  Surface 36 

18.  House  under  Large  Oak . 46 

19-20.  Trees  as  often  Found  by  Roadside 47 

21-22-23.  Trees  as  often  Found  by  Roadside - 48 

24-25-26.  Pruning  Roadside  Trees 49 

27.  Old  Tree  Cut  Back 50 

28.  Arrangement  of  Trees  Along  Narrow  Roadway 53 

29.  Screen  or  Wind-Break:  Too  Formal 64 

30.  Trees  in  Natural  Group  for  Screen 65 

31.  Large-growing  Trees  in  Center  of  Group 65 

32.  Natural  Grouping  of  Large  and  Small  Trees 66 

33.  Trees  and  Shrubs  Arranged,  Walk  and  Drive 68 

34.  Trees  and  Shrubs  Arranged,  Walk  and  Drive 69 

35.  Trees  and  Shrubs  Grouped  at  Fork  of  Road 70 

36-37.  Trees  and  Shrubs  Grouped  at  End  or  Turn  of  Walk 71 

XV 


xvi  List  of  Illustrations 

FIG.  PAGE 

38.  Trees  and  Shrubs  Grouped  at  Long,  Many  Radiating  Lines 

Affording  Vistas  in  Many  Directions 72 

39.  Affording  Vistas  Under  and  Through  Trees 73 

40.  Screen  at  Different  Elevations 74 

41.  Vistas  Through  Trees,  Shrubs  and  Plants 75 

42.  Vistas  Through  Trees,  Shrubs  and  Plants 76 

43.  Groups  of  Trees  at  Entrance 77 

44.  Groups  of  Trees  at  Crown  of  Rounded  Surface 78 

45.  Shrubs  and  Plants  Banked  Against  Veranda 79 

46.  Cutting  Back  of  Hedge 87 

47.  Result  of  Cutting  Back  Hedge-plants 87 

48-49.  Correct  Forms  of  Hedges 88 

50.  Incorrect  Form  of  Hedge 88 

51.  Where  Cuts  Should  be  Made  in  Pruning  Shrubs 88 

52.  Vine-covered  Cottage 91 

53.  Flagstones  in  Place  of  Gravel  or  Concrete 96 

54.  Combined  Walk  and  Drive 98 

55.  Semi-circular  Walk  and  Drive 98 

56.  Method  of  Obtaining  Curves 100 

57.  Location  of  Tile  in  Draining  Road-bed 102 

58.  Location  of  Tile  in  Draining  Road-bed 102 

59.  The  Result  of  Too  Close  Planting 105 

60-61.  Old  Shrubs  Divided  and  Pruned 106 

62.  Form  of  Shrubs 106 

63.  Covering  Bank  Wall no 

64.  Turfing  Against  Wall in 

65.  A  Well-decorated  Farm  House 115 

66.  Section  of  Ordinary  Country  Road 121 

67.  Section  of  Macadam  Road 121 

68.  A  Properly  Constructed  Bar 122 

69.  An  Improperly  Constructed  Bar 122 

70.  An  Improperly  Gravelled  Roadbed (1  124 

71.  A  Properly  Gravelled  Roadbed 

72.  Roadside  Decorated  at  Entrance i: 

73.  A  Roadside  Picture 130 

74.  A  Roadside  Picture— Natural  Growth,  Well-Cared-for 131 

75.  Back-yard  Picture 135 

76.  Decorated  Well-curb 136 

77.  Back  Porch  Decorated  Well-curb 139 

78.  Combined,  Ornamental  and  Useful 140 


List  of  Illustrations  xvii 

FIG.  PAGE 

79.  Part  of  Fig.  78 140 

80.  A  Substantial  Village  School  House  with  an  Abundance  of 

Sunlight 142 

81.  82,  83.  Arrangement  of  School  Yards 144 

84.  A  Modern  Cemetery — Weeping  Willow,  Aquatic  Plants,  etc. .   146 

85.  City  Street  Without  Trees . 150 

86.  City  Street  Well  Decorated  with  Trees 151 

87.  An  Avenue  of  Elms 1 54 

88.  A  Perfect  Elm 156 

89.  Fringed  Vase-formed  Elm 157 

90.  Sugar  Maple 158 

91.  Silver  Maple 159 

91'.  Red  Oak  Pruned  to  make  Branch  High * 161 

92.  Norway  Maple 166 

93.  Japanese  Maples 167 

1.  Red-Leaved. 

2.  Cut-Leaved  Weeping. 

3.  Green-Leaved. 

94.  Western  Catalpa 171 

95.  Flowering  Dogwood 172 

96.  English  Hawthorn 174 

97.  Black  or  Italian  Poplar 177 

98.  Lombardy  Poplar 1 78 

99.  Magnolia  Soulangeana 180 

100.  Oak-leaved  Mountain  Ash 184 

101.  White  Oak 185 

102.  Pin  Oak 186 

103.  Cut-leaved  Maple 189 

104.  Cut-leaved  Weeping  Birch 191 

105.  Weeping  Beech 192 

106.  Teas'  Weeping  Mulberry 193 

107.  Camperdown  Elm 194 

108.  Fern-leaved  Beech 197 

109.  Rivers'  Purple  Beech 200 

no.  Golden  Elm,  Weeping  Birch,  Chinese  Catalpa 201 

in.  Douglas  Fir,  Stone  Pine,  Nordmann's  Fir 204 

112.  Norway  Spruce 205 

113.  Colorado  Blue  Spruce 206 

114.  Austrian  Pine 207 


xviii  List  of  Illustrations 

FIG.  PAGE 

115.  Japanese  Plumed  Cypress  (Retinospera) 208 

1 1 6.  Japanese  Pea-fruited  Cypress  (Retinospera) 210 

117.  Groups  of  Arbor- vitae  and  Flowering  Apple 211 

118.  Author's  Weed  Killers 214 

1 19.  Japanese  Azalea 217 

120.  Calycanthus  Floridus 219 

121.  Clethra  Alnifolia 220 

122.  Japanese  Quince 222 

123.  Weigela  (D.  rosea) 224 

124.  Exochorda  Grandifolia 225 

125.  Golden-bell 226 

1 26.  Hedge  of  Hardy  Hydrangea 228 

127.  Pterostyrax 229 

128.  Mock  Orange  (Philadelphus) 230 

1 29.  White  Fringe 231 

130.  Purple  Fringe  Smoke  Tree 233 

131.  Stag-horn  Sumac 234 

132.  Bridal  Wreath. 236 

133.  Spiraea  Van  Houttei 237 

134.  Common  Lilac 238 

J35-  Japanese  Snowball 240 

136.  Bedding  Roses 243 

137.  Moss  Rose 244 

138.  Mixed  Climbing  Roses 245 

139.  Crimson  Rambler 246 

140.  Japanese  Rose  (Rosa  rugosa) 247 

141.  Dawson  Climbing  Rose 248 

142.  Mountain  Laurel 251 

143.  Rhododendron 252 

144.  Rhododendron  Prepared  for  Shipping 253 

145.  Vine-covered  Cottage 254 

146.  American  Woodbine 255 

147.  Japanese  Woodbine,  Boston  Ivy 257 

148.  Japanese  Clematis 258 

149.  Japanese  Clematis,  Jackmanii  and  Henry i 259 

150.  Japanese  Honeysuckle 260 

151.  Chinese  Wistaria 261 

152.  Kokwa  VinetActinidia 262 

153.  Vine-covered  Stable 264 

154.  Part  of  Stable  Showing  Fruit 265 


List  of  Illustrations 


XIX 


FIG.  PAGE 

155.  Privet  Hedge 269 

156.  Unpruned  Barberry  Hedge 270 

157.  House  with  Vines,  Herbaceous  Plants  in  Foreground.  .  .  . 271 

158.  White  Day  Lily 275 

159.  Japanese  Iris 278 

160.  German  Iris 279 

161.  Golden-banded  Lily 282 

162.  Paeonia,  Cut-leaved 284 

163.  Peony  (P.  albiflora) 285 

164.  Phlox  Paniculata 287 

165.  Oriental  Poppy 288 

166.  Yucca  Filamentosa 291 

167.  Canna  Indica 301 

168.  Castor  Bean 302 

169.  Egyptian  Papyrus 303 

170.  An  Aquatic  Garden 307 

171.  East  Indian  Lotus 310 

172.  Nymphaea  rosea 311 

173.  Water  Poppy 313 

174.  Group  of  Hardy  Ferns 316 

175.  Ornamental  Grasses 318 

176.  Eulalia,  Japanese  Plume  Grass 319 

177.  Elm  Beetle 328 

178.  Elm  Scale 330 

179.  Maple  Borer 331 

180.  Canker  Worm  (Fall) 333 

181.  Canker  Worm  (Spring) 333 

182.  Round  Headed  Apple  Borer 334 

183.  Flat  Headed  Apple  Borer 334 

184.  Peach  Borer., 33  5 

185.  Rose  Chafer 336 

186.  Rose  Slug 33^ 

187.  Oyster  Shell  Scale 339 

188.  Maple  Scale 342 

189.  Home  Fruit  Garden 350 

190.  Strawberry  Bed 37* 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


CHAPTER  I 

LANDSCAPE   GARDENING   AND    HOME   DECORATION 
COMPARED 

THE  term  "landscape  gardening"  properly  is  applied 
in  the  more  extended  meaning  of  the  words  to  that  larger 
work  of  making  and  decorating  extensive  estates,  parks, 
etc.,  where  distant  views  (landscapes)  may  be  obtained 
within  their  limits  and  by  the  work  of  the  gardener  or 
landscape  artist. 

Very  little  of  this  kind  of  work  can  be  done  in  this  country 
because  of  the  small  areas  owned  by  most  of  our  peo- 
ple, and  the  term  "home  decoration"  or  "home  land- 
scape gardening"  will  more  properly  apply  to  most  of  the 
work  done  among  us  in  this  line.  Yet  when  we  consider 
that  outside  the  limits  of  cities  and  large  towns  there  are 
large  and  extended  views  which  even  the  owner  of  the 
smallest  estate  may  take  in  or  shut  out  in  a  measure  at  will 
in  the  arrangement  of  his  own  decorative  trees  and  shrubs, 
the  work  of  home  decoration  becomes  in  a  true  sense  land- 
scape gardening. 

We  can  and  do  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  include  the 
whole  landscape  in  the  decoration  of  all  home  grounds  if 
we  wish  to  obtain  the  best  results.  There  is  hardly  a 


2  Landscape  Gardening 

country  or  suburban  home  so  shut  in  as  not  to  afford  some 
scope  for  the  appropriation  of  outside  vistas  of  beauty 
beyond  its  limits,  and  in  many  cases  views  for  miles  around 
may  be  found  and  improved  or  toned  down  or  heightened 
by  careful  treatment  in  our  own  planting;  and  in  more 
closely  planted  districts,  by  mutual  understanding  and 
cooperation,  the  real  art  of  landscape  gardening  may  have  as 
broad  scope  as  in  the  park  and  large  estate. 

Knowledge  of  Materials 

Before  considering  so  large  a  subject  in  detail,  the  neces- 
sity must  be  urged  upon  the  reader  of  becoming  thoroughly 
familiar  with  the  materials  to  be  used — i.e.,  the  ornamental 
trees,  shrubs,  plants,  grass,  rock,  and  style  of  building  to 
a  certain  extent — for  until  this  knowledge  is  obtained  it 
will  be  a  very  difficult  matter  to  begin  the  work  understand- 
ingly  or  to  carry  it  out  to  successful  results. 

In  Chapter  X  will  be  found  a  brief  description  of  the 
most  beautiful  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants,  their  most  appro- 
priate use,  the  soil  best  suited  to  their  growth,  the  special 
treatment  they  each  require,  and  in  Chapter  XV  the  dis- 
eases and  insect  pests  they  are  subject  to,  with  remedies  for 
the  same.  Frequent  reference  will  be  made  to  these  chap- 
ters, and  for  a  full  understanding  of  each  case  it  will  be 
advisable  to  give  these  references  full  consideration. 

A  Plan 

Before  any  one,  skilled  or  unskilled,  begins  to  decorate  a 
place,  no  matter  how  small,  he  must  have  some  plan  for 
the  work,  and  the  more  complete  and  fully  matured  that 
plan  the  better. 

Many  individuals  who  have  a  special  love  for  the  beauti- 
ful in  nature,  who  are  familiar  with  a  large  number  of  the 


Landscape  Gardening  and  Home  Decoration     3 

most  beautiful  trees,  shrubs,  etc.,  and  have  studied  the 
effects  of  their  varying  forms,  size  and  colors,  and  who  are 
about  to  bufld  a  home,  are  qualified  to  make  a  satisfactory 
plan  for  themselves,  and  a  large  amount  of  pleasure  may  be 
the  result  of  this  work. 

This  study  of  art  and  nature  is  one  of  the  best  kinds  of 
training  of  the  perceptive  faculties.  Nothing  can  better 
train  the  eye  and  thoughts  to  see  and  love  the  beautiful 
than  this  work,  and  it  has  a  most  refining  and  elevating 
effect  upon  those  who  thus  spend  their  leisure  hours. 

If  proper  time  is  given  to  the  subject,  and  the  advice  of 
those  who  have  had  some  experience  is  sought,  there  need 
be  no  difficulty  in  making  a  good  working  plan  by  the 
amateur.  The  father  and  the  mother  should  both  be  in- 
terested and  plan  together,  and  the  children  too  should 
have  a  voice  in  the  matter,  for  there  is  nothing  that  holds 
them  to  the  old  home  as  the  trees  and  plants  they  have 
planted  or  helped  to  plant  and  care  for. 

When  cost  is  not  an  item  of  consideration,  a  complete 
plan  made  by  a  skilled  landscape  gardener  who  is  willing 
to  incorporate,  as  far  as  possible,  the  particular  kinds  of 
trees  and  plants  and  other  features  desired  by  the  owner, 
will  give  the  most  satisfaction;  but  the  value  of  the  study 
and  training  to  the  individual  is  lost;  therefore  I  would 
advise  every  home-builder  to  make  a  great  effort  to  learn 
what  are  the  best  decorative  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants  for 
home  planting,  and  how  best  to  succeed  in  growing  them  to 
the  greatest  perfection. 

Some  failures  will  be  made,  but  success  will  at  last  crown 
our  efforts,  and  the  things  we  have  planted,  the  walks  and 
drives  we  have  located,  and  the  other  objects  of  beauty  we 
have  created  about  our  homes  will  be  ours  in  a  sense  that 
they  cannot  be  if  we  build  after  the  plan  of  others,  and  a 
most  precious  source  of  joy  and  comfort  in  declining  years. 


Landscape  Gardening 


Landscape  Gardening  and  Home  Decoration    5 

The  trees  we  plant  may  be  a  legacy  that  will  last  through 
many  generations. 

The  Natural  versus  the  Artificial  System 

In  earlier  times  and  in  other  countries  much  of  the  work 
in  landscape  or  ornamental  gardening  was  done  in  what  is 
known  as  the  geometrical  or  artificial  system  (Fig.  i),  where  the 
work  was  largely  laid  out  in  squares,  circles,  or  other  geo- 
metrical figures;  the  changes  in  grade  were  largely  obtained 
by  steep  terraces,  the  trees  and  shrubs  trained  to  regular 
and  often  grotesque  forms.  In  our  own  country  the  natural 
system  is  more  largely  used,  and  more  and  more  in  Europe 
it  is  coming  into  use,  where  all  the  work  is  done  so  as  to 
represent  the  best  and  most  beautiful  in  nature.  By  this 
system  the  walks  and  drives  are  laid  out  in  graceful  curves, 
the  changes  in  grade  made  by  graceful  slopes  and  rounded 
surfaces,  and  the  trees  and  shrubs  are  encouraged  to  take 
the  most  perfect  natural  forms,  while  they  are  so  grouped 
as  to  give  the  greatest  variety  of  natural  beauty. 

Under  some  conditions,  as  in  squares  or  city  lots,  close 
up  to  large,  tall  buildings,  with  paved  roads  and  side- 
walks, on  steep  hillsides  and  abrupt  slopes,  or  where  the 
terrace  or  retaining  wall  is  a  necessity,  the  artificial  system 
may  not  be  objectionable,  but  in  the  country,  with  so  much 
of  freedom  of  thought  and  action,  and  so  full  of  natural 
growth  and  beauty,  the  artificial  style  is  not  in  good  taste 
and  should  generally  be  avoided.  The  house  and  sur- 
rounding buildings,  walks,  drives,  fences,  etc.,  must  of 
necessity  be  artificial,  but  even  these  may  be  toned  down  in 
their  architecture  and  coloring  so  as  to  blend  and  harmonize 
with  the  natural  ornamental  features  about  them. 


Landscape  Gardening 


New  Homes  and  Homes  Already  Established 

In  considering  the  subject  of  home  decoration  it  becomes 
necessary  to  discuss  it  under  two  heads:  ist.  New  homes 
where  nothing  has  been  done  toward  outside  decoration; 
2d.  Homes  already  established. 


CHAPTER    II 
ORNAMENTING   NEW   HOMES 

IN  establishing  and  decorating  new  homes  the  following 
important  points  must  be  considered:  first,  situation  and 
natural  features;  second,  location  of  buildings;  third,  plans 
of  the  home. 

Situation  and  Natural  Features 

LOCATION 

Everywhere  about  us,  except  in  the  heart  of  the  large 
cities,  are  to  be  found  building  lots  with  more  or  less  land 
for  lawn  and  garden  purposes.  On  hill  and  in  dale,  among 
the  mountains,  by  the  seaside,  in  the  suburbs,  and  in  the 
remote  country,  everywhere  are  places  in  such  profusion 
that  those  of  the  most  limited  means,  the  most  wealthy  and 
of  the  most  fastidious  tastes,  may  find  a  location  suited  to 
their  requirements. 

Whether  one  shall  locate  a  new  home  in  the  city,  in  the 
suburbs,  or  in  the  country  is  a  question  that  cannot  be 
answered  without  a  complete  understanding  of  all  of  the 
conditions  involved.  Each  has  its  advantage,  and  every  side 
of  the  question  should  be  very  carefully  studied  before  a 
decision  is  made,  for  not  only  one's  own  personal  welfare  and 
happiness  is  involved,  but  in  many  cases  that  of  others  near 
and  dear,  and  when  once  located  a  change  cannot  be  made 
without  a  great  inconvenience  and  in  some  cases  great  loss 
financially. 

7 


Landscape  Gardening 


HEALTHFULNESS   OF   LOCATION 

This  is  of  the  first  and  paramount  importance,  for  with- 
out health  no  one  can  enjoy  life  or  do  his  share  toward 
making  his  own  life  or  that  of  others  of  value.  And  first 
of  all  low  and  swampy  or  malarial  land  should  be  avoided. 
While  much  may  be  done  by  underdraining,  and  other 
means  be  employed  to  make  such  locations  healthful,  with  so 
many  thousands  of  acres  about  us  free  from  these  objections 
there  is  no  necessity  for  a  single  dwelling  being  located  on 
unhealthful  ground.  Rising  land  with  good  drainage, 
where  the  surface-water  shall  quickly  pass  off,  where  there 
shall  be  an  abundance  of  moving  air  about  the  site,  and  an 
abundance  of  sunlight,  is  the  most  desirable. 

CONVENIENCE 

The  location  should  be  convenient  of  access  not  only 
for  the  occupants,  but  for  all  who  may  be  in  contact  with 
them.  Many  a  family  have  shut  themselves  out  from 
society  almost  completely  by  building  a  home  where  friends 
can  meet  them  only  by  making  a  very  unusual  effort. 

The  leading  idea  of  modern  times  is  centralization; 
and  the  advantages  of  being  near  neighbors  where  social 
intercourse  can  be  frequent,  where  the  whole  family  will  be 
brought  into  close  contact  with  the  surrounding  world,  are 
many;  but  it  becomes  a  question  if  the  individuality,  the 
strong  characters  brought  out  by  the  self-reliance  acquired 
by  living  in  more  isolated  sections,  are  not  worth  consider- 
ing also.  The  electric  railroad,  penetrating  far  into  the 
country,  connecting  town  with  town  and  country  with  town, 
the  modern  automobile  now  offered  at  a  price  not  much 
above  that  of  a  good  horse  and  carriage,  will  in  a  measure 
settle  the  question  of  the  necessity  for  centralization  and  the 
depopulation  of  our  rural  districts. 


Ornamenting  New  Homes  9 

Nearness  to  railroad,  to  school  and  church  must  be  care- 
fully considered;  but  as  the  cost  of  building  lots  remote 
from  these  conveniences  is  much  less,  those  limited  in  means 
will  continue  to  locate  in  the  less  favored  sections. 

The  main  street  of  the  town  or  village  has  many  advan- 
tages, but  the  cross  or  side  streets  have  the  advantages  of 
greater  quiet  and  allow  of  more  freedom  of  action,  besides 
being  less  expensive. 

ELEVATION  AND   SLOPE 

The  height  of  the  land  above  the  sea-level  and  above  the 
surrounding  country  should  be  considered.  The  higher 
the  land  the  better  and  purer  the  air,  the  larger  and  more 
pleasing  the  landscape  effect,  and  more  perfect  drainage 
may  be  obtained.  There  are,  however,  serious  objections 
to  extreme  elevation  and  abrupt  slopes  which  increase  the 
effort  needed  to  get  to  and  from  the  place,  and  increase  the 
cost  of  fitting  the  land  and  keeping  lawn,  walks,  and  drives 
in  good  condition.  A  southern  or  southeastern  slope  will 
afford  much  shelter  where  the  prevailing  winds  during 
cold  weather  are  from  the  north  or  northwest,  and,  if  the 
landscape  effect  is  equally  good,  should  be  selected  in  pref- 
erence to  a  western  or  northwestern  slope. 

GOOD  WATER 

Nothing  can  make  home  life  more  miserable  than  an 
insufficient  supply  of  water  or  water  that  is  of  poor  quality, 
and  the  most  careful  investigation  of  this  question  should 
be  made  before  deciding  upon  a  location.  If  there  are  any 
conditions  that  may  lead  to  the  contamination  of  the  drink- 
ing-water, they  should  have  the  most  rigid  investigation. 
With  the  modern  methods  of  analysis  it  is  possible  to  know 
positively  the  condition  of  the  water,  but  analyses  should  be 


10  Landscape  Gardening 

made  at  two  or  three  different  times  to  determine  if  the  sup- 
ply is  affected  at  one  season  of  the  year  and  not  at 
another. 

In  villages  and  near  old  buildings  most  dangerous  sources 
of  contamination  may  be  found  in  sink-drains,  cesspools, 
stable-yards,  etc.,  and  if  any  of  the  above  are  found  within 
from  200  to  300  feet,  according  to  the  soil,  of  a  well  the 
water  should  be  regarded  with  suspicion. 

These  sources  of  contamination  may  not  affect  the  water 
in  a  new  well  for  many  years,  but  sooner  or  later  the  sur- 
face-drainage will  find  its  way  down  to  the  deep  basins 
formed  by  our  wells.  The  safest  water-supply  is  that  from 
a  well-constructed  and  cared-for  reservoir,  brought  in  suit- 
able pipes  to  the  house.  In  these  open  reservoirs  the  water 
becomes  purified  by  long  exposure  to  the  air,  but  does  not 
possess  the  sparkle  nor  the  coolness  of  water  from  a  deep 
well. 

KIND   OF   SOIL 

While  the  location  as  to  surroundings,  elevation,  water- 
supply,  etc.,  are  matters  of  first  importance,  the  success  and 
more  or  less  the  cost  of  the  ornamental  planting  depends 
largely  upon  the  nature  of  the  soil.  It  will  hardly  be  possi- 
ble to  find  a  soil  perfectly  adapted  to  the  best  growth  of 
all  kinds  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants,  yet  any  ordinarily 
good  soil  may  be  made  to  grow  most  of  them  without  very 
great  expense.  The  best  soil  for  general  purposes  is  a  deep 
sandy  loam,  though  a  strong  loam  with  a  clay  subsoil  if 
thoroughly  underdrained  will  often  be  satisfactory  and,  a 
thin  soil,  too,  may  be  very  much  improved  by  deep  working 
and  heavy  manuring,  but  in  the  latter  two  cases  the  expense 
of  preparation  and  maintenance  is  very  much  increased. 


Ornamenting  New  Homes 


11 


Strongly  Marked  Natural  Features,  like  Rocks 
and  Water,  Distant  Views,  etc. 

These  prominent  natural  features  often  found  on  build- 
ing lots  and  surroundings  should  always  be  carefully  con- 
sidered, for  they  may  be  made  to  add  wonderful  beauty 
and  variety  if  properly  handled. 


FIG.  2. — Arrangement  of  Rocks. 


ROCKS 

Large  boulders  and  ledges  should  be  preserved  wherever 
possible,  but  the  small  boulders,  loose  rocks,  and  cobbles 
should  all  be  put  out  of  sight  in  well-kept  grounds.  The 
latter  may  be  utilized  as  foundations  for  small  buildings 
and  for  filling  in  the  beds  of  walks  and  drives,  or  otherwise 


12 


Landscape  Gardening 


disposed  of  where  out  of  view.  The  practice  of  dumping 
them  along  the  roadside,  which  we  find  in  many  country 
places,  cannot  be  too  severely  condemned,  for  it  renders  the 
destruction  of  weeds  and  brush  that  come  up  among  them 


FIG.  3. — Arrangement  of  Rocks. 


FIG.  4. — Unnatural  or  Inartistic  Arrangement  of  Rocks. 

almost  an  impossibility.  If  all  the  loose  stones  and  cobbles 
could  be  removed  from  the  borders  of  our  roadways  through- 
out the  country,  weeds  and  other  objectionable  growth 
could  be  easily  kept  down  and  the  roadsides  be  soon  covered 
with  grass  and  desirable  trees  and  shrubs  as  shown  in  Fig.  73. 
Ledges  and  boulders  serve  as  a  nucleus  around  which  to 


Ornamenting  New  Homes  13 

group  the  ornamental  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines,  and  give  an 
added  naturalness  and  beauty  that  can  be  obtained  in  no 
other  way.  Large  boulders  may  often  be  arranged  in  such 
a  way  as  to  give  a  steep  embankment  the  appearance  of  a 
projecting  ledge  as  in  Fig.  2,  and  which  shows  them  arranged 
upon  both  sides  of  a  cut  through  which  a  drive  or  walk 
can  be  arranged  with  good  effect.  Fig.  3  illustrates  boulders 
grouped  on  one  side  of  a  slope  with  very  pleasing  results. 
Fig.  4  shows  a  very  unnatural  and  inartistic  arrangement 
which  would  be  greatly  improved  if  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants 
were  planted  around  and  among  them.  As  much  of  the 
naturalness  about  these  strong  features  as  possible  should 
be  preserved.  The  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines,  the  herbaceous 
plants  and  grass  should  be  made  to  grow  to  greater  perfection 
than  in  their  wild  condition,  by  careful  attention  and  enrich- 
ment of  the  soil,  and  undesirable  things  should  not  be 
allowed  to  grow;  thus  will  art  and  nature  be  combined  and 
true  beauty  produced. 

WATER 

Close  proximity  to  lakes,  ponds,  or  streams  may  not 
always  be  desirable,  but  where  there  is  open  country  about 
the  place,  with  an  abundance  of  sunshine  and  air,  and  the 
land  is  somewhat  elevated  above  the  water,  few  natural 
features  can  be  made  to  produce  so  much  beauty  and  pleas- 
ure. A  vista  of  water,  either  moving  or  silent,  through  an 
opening  in  the  shrubbery  adds  at  once  a  quiet  and  a  charm 
of  which  one  seldom  tires. 

Moving  water  gives  more  variety,  adds  life  and  vivacity 
to  the  landscape,  while  the  peaceful  lakelet  or  pond  has  a 
quieting  effect.  In  places  where  there  is  much  of  the  bold 
and  strong  in  the  decoration  the  surprise  and  variety  given 
by  the  quiet  lakelet  is  very  pleasing,  while  where  the  quiet, 
graceful  features  predominate  a  little  moving,  active  water 


14  Landscape  Gardening 


FIG.  5. — Natural  Water  Viewv 


Ornamenting  New  Homes 


15 


is  equally  valuable.  In  making  confined  sheets  of  water, 
if  the  source  of  supply  is  abundant,  so  that  there  is  fre- 
quent renewal  of  the  water  within  the  basin,  the  outlet  may 
be  through  an  underground  overflow  as  shown  in  Fig.  6. 


FIG.  6. — Underground  Overflow  of  Lakelet. 

If  the  supply  of  water  is  limited  and  not  likely  to  be  fre- 
quently renewed,  the  open  overflow  or  outlet,  as  in  Fig.  7, 
should  be  made,  so  that  any  foul  substances  that  accumu- 
late on  the  surface  may  be  easily  carried  off.  With  the 
underground  outlet  it  requires  a  tremendous  volume  of 


FIG.  7. — Open  Overflow  of  Lakelet. 

water  to  carry  such  light  surface-material  down  into  the 
culvert  even  one  or  two  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  water. 
The  low  murmur  of  the  brooklet,  or  the  dash  of  the 
cascade  or  waterfall,  has  charms  for  almost  every  one,  and 
should  be  made  a  most  prominent  feature  wherever  avail- 
able. Even  if  not  on  one's  own  grounds,  by  a  little  manipu- 


16  Landscape  Gardening 

lation  of  shrubbery  water- views  from  a  long  distance  may 
often  be  secured  through  open  vistas. 

The  location  of  the  home  in  the  vicinity  of  stagnant 
water  or  where  streams  or  ponds  are  likely  to  be  contami- 
nated by  sewage  or  undesirable  surface-drainage  should  be 
avoided  unless  there  is  some  certainty  that  the  surround- 
ings can  and  will  be  improved. 

Increase  in  Value 

No  thrifty  person  will  think  of  locating  in  any  place 
where,  if  by  change  of  business  or  other  circumstance  he 
might  be  obliged  to  make  a  change  in  location,  the  prop- 
erty will  not  sell  for  something  near  its  cost.  In  a  great 
many  localities,  where  near  good  railroads  and  thriving 
manufactories,  property  is  almost  sure  to  increase  in  value 
if  a  good  selection  is  made  and  the  home  is  economically 
built,  while  in  others,  more  distant  from  business  centers, 
real  estate  has  gradually  diminished  in  value,  until  we  often 
find  good  home  farms  offered  for  sale  for  much  less  than 
the  cost  of  the  buildings  upon  them. 

Amount  of  Land  to  Purchase 

One  of  the  greatest  mistakes  many  people  make  when 
establishing  a  new  home  is  in  purchasing  too  much  land, 
especially  if  they  are  persons  of  small  means  and  little 
experience  in  caring  for  land.  The  amount  that  should  be 
purchased  ought  to  be  limited  to  the  actual  needs  of  the 
purchaser.  If  means  are  abundant  and  extensive  grounds 
and  a  large  lawn  with  choice  shrubbery  are  desired,  or  if 
more  or  less  gardening  is  to  be  done,  more  land  can  be 
utilized,  but  even  then  the  quantity  should  be  limited  to 
what  can  be  well  cared  for. 

The  home  garden  is  one  of  the  greatest  luxuries  con-* 


Ornamenting  New  Homes  17 

nected  with  a  comfortable  home,  provided  one  has  the 
knowledge  and  skill  to  make  the  work  a  success  and  has 
the  time  to  either  do  the  work  or  to  see  that  all  the  opera- 
tions of  planting,  cultivation,  and  harvesting  are  properly 
done.  To  the  professional  man,  the  business  man,  or 
mechanic  of  sedentary  habit  the  physical  effort  necessary 
to  successfully  care  for  a  small  garden  of  fruits  and  vege- 
tables will  be  invaluable  and  one  of  the  best  means  of  secur- 
ing vigorous  health,  while  the  products  of  a  well-kept  gar- 
den have  often  been  made  to  supplement  many  a  meagre 
income  and  provide  the  most  healthful  and  appetizing  food 
possible  to  obtain.  (See  Chap.  XVI.) 

But  this  caution  should  be  observed:  Do  not  undertake 
this  work  on  a  large  scale  until  some  skill  or  experience  has 
been  obtained.  Small  areas  well  tilled  in  all  lines  of  agri- 
culture and  horticulture  generally  give  the  best  results,  and 
only  so  much  land  should  be  given  to  garden  purpose  as 
can  be  cared  for  in  the  most  thorough  manner.  If  land  is 
abundant,  a  part  of  it  might  be  set  off  to  the  children  for  a 
flower-garden,  for  the  planting  of  a  few  trees  or  vines,  or  for 
growing  a  few  vegetables  like  melons,  etc.  In  no  way  can 
so  much  of  nature  and  her  ways  be  taught  to  children  and 
a  real  love  for  all  her  products  be  fostered,  as  well  as  a 
strong  love  be  developed  for  the  home  which  they  have 
helped  to  build. 

Location  of  Buildings 

After  deciding  where  to  build  a  home,  the  first  question 
to  decide  is  where  to  locate  the  house.  Nothing  can  be 
more  important.  In  building  a  house  it  is  with  the  idea 
of  permanent  occupancy  or  for  a  long  series  of  years,  and 
any  mistake  made  at  this  stage  is  often  irreparable. 

Wherever  possible  the  house  should  be  located  at  some 
distance  from  the  street;  the  building  will  look  better,  and 


18 


Landscape  Gardening 


more  natural  and  beautiful  decorations  can  be  made  than 
if  it  is  almost  on  the  street-line.  In  suburban  districts 
where  there  are  already  many  houses  located,  to  place  the 
building  very  much  out  of  the  line  of  those  already  built 
sometimes  detracts  from  rather  than  enhances  its  beauty, 
but  with  an  abundance  of  space  between  the  houses  they 
may  be  located  at  any  distance  from  the  street  desired  with- 
out detracting  from  their  beauty.  With  an  abundance  of 
room  between  the  house  and  street  one  is  less  troubled  by 


Street 


FIG.  8. — Buildings  Arranged  on  One  Side  of  Lot. 

dust  and  noise,  and  better  views  of  the  building  and  grounds 
can  be  obtained  from  the  street,  and  better  opportunity 
is  afforded  for  securing  vistas  of  beauty  and  variety  in  look- 
ing from  the  house. 

Where  the  lot  is  long  and  narrow  and  small  in  extent, 
say  less  than  one-fourth  of  an  acre,  greater  variety  may  be 
obtained  by  placing  the  house  somewhat  at  one  side,  as  in 
Fig.  8.  This  affords  better  opportunity  for  decoration,  the 
use  of  larger  trees  and  shrubs,  and  greater  extent  of  lawn. 
In  places  of  larger  area  a  central  location  may  be  more 


Ornamenting  New  Homes  19 

desirable,  as  the  balance  of  the  picture  or  better  symmetry 
is  more  readily  obtained. 

Elevation  of  the  House 

No  more  frequent  mistake  is  made  by  builders  than  in 
the  elevation  of  the  house.  It  is  very  difficult  for  an  inex- 
perienced person  to  judge  how  a  house  will  look  after  the 
excavation  has  been  made  and  the  soil  is  brought  up  to  a 
grade.  The  elevation  should  be  such  that  there  shall  be 
perfect  surface  and  sub-drainage,  that  all'  surface  water 
shall  pass  off  quickly.  The  elevation  must  also  be  sufficient 
to  secure  a  perfectly  dry  cellar. 

The  view,  too,  must  be  considered,  and  it  will  be  found 
that  this  is  best  when  seen  from  a  little  above  surrounding 
objects,  and  the  beauty  of  the  house  and  grounds  is  much 
increased  if  seen  from  a  little  below  the  level. 

The  cost  of  excavation  and  filling  is  a  matter  that  must 
be  considered,  and  if  the  soil  taken  from  the  cellar  is  not 
sufficient  to  do  the  grading  it  must  be  obtained  from  the 
nearest  source  of  supply  of  good  material. 

Exposure  of  the  House 

Whether  the  house  shall  be  on  the  north,  south,  east,  or 
west  slope  is  a  matter  of  great  importance  in  our  change- 
able climate.  On  the  southern,  southeasterly,  or  south- 
westerly slopes  a  little  under  a  hill  or  in  the  lea  of  a  shelter- 
ing grove,  the  fierce  northwest  winds,  so  common  through- 
out the  country,  are  greatly  modified,  but  some  of  our  most 
lovely  views  are  often  lost  under  such  conditions,  and  it 
becomes  a  matter  of  serious  moment  which  of  the  two  con- 
ditions to  adopt.  Shelter  is  very  easily  provided,  however, 
in  a  short  time  by  planting  trees  of  rapid  growth. 

The  location  as  related  to  the  principal  thoroughfare  is  a 


20  Landscape  Gardening 

matter  that  should  receive  attention.  On  the  north  side 
of  a  road  leading  east  and  west  the  front  of  the  house  will 
be  open  to  the  south,  and  the  front  rooms  are  thus  exposed 
to  the  sun  more  fully  than  the  rear  rooms.  If,  however, 
more  sunlight  is  desired  in  the  rear  rooms,  a  location  on  the 
south  side  of  the  street  would  be  more  satisfactory.  Hall- 
ways and  unoccupied  rooms  should  be  placed  where  there 
is  the  least  sunlight. 

But  whatever  the  exposure,  the  aim  should  be  to  obtain 
shelter  if  possible  from  the  prevailing  winds,  to  secure  as 
much  sunlight  as  possible  and  preserve  the  most  beautiful 
views. 

Character  of  the  Land 

The  beauty  that  may  be  developed  in  any  place  depends 
largely  upon  the  character  of  the  land.  If  without  char- 
acter, i.e.,  if  perfectly  flat  and  level,  no  marked  or  strong 
features  can  be  obtained  except  at  a  greatly  added  cost. 
If,  however,  the  land  is  uneven,  with  a  valley  here,  a  hill 
there,  a  ravine  in  one  place  or  a  mass  of  bold  rocks  in  another, 
much  more  variety  and  much  more  beautiful  views  may  be 
obtained.  Whatever  variety  is  obtained  on  a  level  building 
lot  must  be  made  by  the  contrast  between  the  ornamental 
trees  and  shrubs  and  the  architecture. 

Architecture 

In  building  a  new  house  the  architecture  should  be  in 
keeping  with  the  surroundings  and  within  the  means  of  the 
builder.  The  most  unsatisfactory  results  are  often  shown 
where  a  large  showy  house  is  built  in  a  quiet  unpretentious 
place,  or  where  the  owner  has  put  his  last  dollar  into  it  and 
can  do  nothing  toward  decoration,  but  must  leave  the  place 
in  an  unkempt  and  slovenly  condition.  Many  a  home  is 


Ornamenting  New  Homes  21 

built  too  large  to  be  properly  furnished  or  cared  for, 
and  thus  becomes  a  source  of  anxiety  and  disappoint- 
ment. 

The  simple,  plain,  well-built  structure,  with  surround- 
ings neatly  planted  and  kept  up  in  a  neat  and  finished 
manner,  has  more  attractiveness,  is  more  enjoyed  by  the 
occupants,  and  adds  much  more  to  the  appearance  of  thrift 
and  comfort  of  a  community  than  the  large  showy  build- 
ings without  tasteful  decoration  and  outside  care. 

While  beautiful  trees  and  shrubs  may  be  grown  and 
artistic  arrangement  of  all  of  the  material  for  home  decora- 
tion be  just  as  well  made  about  a  dwelling  that  has  no 
features  of  beauty  in  itself,  more  satisfactory  results  may 
be  obtained  if  the  buildings  harmonize  with  the  natural 
surroundings. 

If  the  buildings  are  already  established,  little  can  be  done 
but  adapt  the  decorations  to  their  characteristics.  Much 
greater  beauty  is  added  to  the  broad,  low  house  by  intro- 
ducing some  slender,  spiry  trees  than  by  using  all  low- 
spreading  trees,  while  with  the  Gothic  or  other  light,  high 
styles  of  architecture  many  of  the  graceful  and  low-spread- 
ing trees  may  be  grouped  with  some  of  the  spiry  kinds. 
In  every  case  there  must  be  a  blending  of  the  materials 
used  for  decoration  with  the  architecture. 

Plans  of  the  Home 

PLANS    OF   DWELLING-HOUSES 

So  much  is  written  at  the  present  time  on  suburban 
architecture  that  no  attempt  will  be  made  in  this  volume 
to  give  plans  for  such  work.  The  reader  is  referred  to  the 
numerous  works  on  the  subject  and  to  the  many  careful 
and  well-elaborated  plans  to  be  found  in  our  agricultural, 
horticultural,  scientific,  and  literary  papers  which,  with  a 


22  Landscape  Gardening 

fair  amount  of  taste  in  the  decorative  art  and  the  assistance 
of  a  good  builder,  will  enable  one  to  decide  understandingly 
what  is  needed  and  in  many  cases  dispense  with  the  expen- 
sive services  of  the  professional  architect. 

In  cases,  however,  of  extensive  buildings  of  considerable 
cost  it  will  be  found  economical  to  have  a  full  detailed  plan 
made  by  an  experienced  architect.  With  a  full  understand- 
ing of  all  of  the  needs  of  the  family  which  are  to  occupy 
the  dwelling,  the  skilled  architect  will  be  able  to  obtain 
desired  results  and  save  many  mistakes  that  the  inexperi- 
enced would  be  likely  to  make,  often  saving  the  owner 
many  times  the  cost  of  a  working  plan. 

There  is,  however,  a  growing  taste  among  our  people  for 
amateur  architecture  which  should  be  encouraged,  and  many 
beautiful  and  well-arranged  plans  of  all  kinds  of  buildings 
have  been  produced  by  those  about  to  build  houses;  and 
the  pleasure  experienced  in  building  a  house  of  one's  own 
planning  may  more  than  counterbalance  any  saving  in 
material  or  labor  that  might  result  from  a  plan  made  by  a 
skilled  architect. 

COST   OF   THE  HOUSE 

It  is  the  almost  universal  experience  of  those  who  build 
a  house  for  the  first  time,  especially  those  with  limited 
means,  that  the  cost  largely  exceeds  the  estimate,  and  this 
has  led  to  the  practice  of  adding  25  to  50  per  cent  to  the 
estimate  as  it  is  ordinarily  made.  This  deficiency  may  be 
accounted  for  generally  by  the  fact  that  there  are  so  many 
little  things  that  go  to  make  up  the  completed  house  that 
are  overlooked  or  that  are  not  incorporated  in  the  builder's 
contract,  and  whenever  a  building  is  done  by  contract  the 
most  full  and  complete  specifications  should  be  made  out. 
Where  reliable,  builders  can  be  found  who  will  look  to  the 
interest  of  the  employer  as  well  as  their  own,  much  more 


Ornamenting  New  Homes  23 

satisfactory  results  may  be  obtained  if  the  work  is  done  by 
day  labor  than  if  by  contract. 
The  requirements  for  a  healthful  house  are,  first, 

GOOD  DRAINAGE  OF  THE  CELLAR 

A  wet  or  even  over-moist  cellar  is  often  the  cause  of 
much  sickness  and  discomfort,  for  it  serves  not  only  as  a 
place  for  the  development  of  disease-germs,  but  also  those 
that  cause  the  decay  of  the  woodwork  and  hasten  the 
corrosion  of  any  metal  substances  stored  therein.  It  causes 
contraction  and  expansion  of  doors,  windows,  casings,  and 
floors,  and  gives  no  end  of  trouble  in  many  ways.  From 
its  long  use  for  storing  vegetables,  etc.,  we  have  come  to 
think  that  a  cellar  is  almost  a  necessity,  but  it  is  not  so 
much  so  at  the  present  time  as  when  almost  every  family 
put  in  a  large  supply  of  provisions  for  winter  use.  Now 
the  provision-dealer  puts  in  large  supplies  and  is  ready  to 
deliver  fresh  vegetables  and  fruit  in  limited  quantities 
every  week,  or  even  every  day  if  desired. 

The  cellar  is  useful  in  the  modern  house,  however,  not 
so  much  for  storing  winter  supplies  as  for  the  location  of 
the  furance  and  the  needed  fuel.  In  the  "good  old  times" 
our  houses  were  heated  by  burning  large  quantities  of  wood 
in  the  fireplaces;  then  came  the  stove,  one  in  each  room; 
and  finally  we  have  come  to  centralizing  all  heating  appara- 
tus in  one  furnace  or  boiler,  which,  until  we  come  to  the  , 
condition  where  all  heat  can  be  supplied  to  our  dwellings 
from  outside  central  stations,  either  by  steam,  hot  water, 
or  electricity,  is  by  far  the  most  satisfactory  arrangement 
we  find  now  available. 

A  well-drained  cellar  with  a  good  furnace  to  dry  out 
surplus  moisture  is  a  good  place  for  storing  fuel  and  other 
necessities,  and  is  easily  accessible  for  regulating  the  heat- 
supply. 


24  Landscape  Gardening 

In  every  case  proper  means  should  be  provided  for  getting 
the  coal  and  other  fuel  in  and  for  taking  out  the  accumu- 
lating ashes  in  such  a  way  as  not  to  necessitate  crossing  long 
distances  of  lawn  with  heavily  loaded  teams.  The  bulkhead 
or  entrance  into  the  cellar  should  therefore  be  located  with 
this  in  view. 

As  far  as  possible  all  vegetables  and  fruit  should  be  stored 
in  the  cellar  of  some  outbuilding  or  in  some  frostproof 
vegetable  or  fruit  room  above  ground,  and  except  for  the 
furnace  and  the  fuel-supply  a  cellar  is  not  a  necessity  in 
building  the  modern  house. 

Where  perfect  drainage  can  be  obtained  at  little  expense, 
under  many  conditions  the  cellar  is  desirable,  and  the  space 
provided  by  its  construction  is  much  more  cheaply  obtained 
than  in  any  other  part  of  the  building.  Upon  side-hills 
where  basement  rooms  can  be  constructed,  the  space  be- 
comes still  more  valuable  for  kitchen,  laundry,  and  other 
purposes. 

The  surface-drainage  of  all  water  from  the  roofs  and  all 
surrounding  land  should  be  first  provided  for  by  proper 
grading,  so  that  it  shall  pass  off  quickly  and  without  wash- 
ing of  the  soil.  The  water  from  the  roof  should  never  be 
allowed  to  fall  from  the  eaves  to  the  ground  near  the  foun- 
dations, but  should  be  conducted  in  pipes  and  gutters  as 
far  away  as  is  possible.  Where  the  slope  is  very  abrupt 
from  the  house,  underground  conduits  should  be  provided 
to  prevent  surf  ace- washing.  Subdrainage  should  be  pro- 
vided along  the  inside  of  the  cellar  walls,  and  deep  enough 
below  the  bottom  to  make  it  perfectly  dry.  If  the  soil 
outside  is  naturally  wet  or  springy,  a  line  of  tile  should  be 
placed  at  such  distance  and  depth  as  to  make  this  satis- 
factory. With  a  cellar  bottom  thus  drained  outside  and  in, 
and  carefully  concreted  with  cement  and  sand,  the  most 
healthful  condition  possible  will  be  provided. 


Ornamenting  New  Homes  25 


PERFECT   VENTILATION 

This  is  a  very  large  subject  to  even  touch  upon  in  a  work 
of  this  character  and  limit,  but  is  one  of  so  much  impor- 
tance that  no  one  who  intends  to  build  a  home,  however 
simple,  should  ignore  it. 

The  first  condition  to  be  provided  is  a  large  space  for 
taking  in  pure  and  forcing  out  the  impure  air  in  sufficient 
quantities  for  healthy  respiration  of  the  inmates.  This  is 
best  provided  by  having  open  fireplaces  in  each  of  the 
principal  rooms,  or  by  means  of  separate  flues  for  the  inlet 
of  fresh  air  and  egress  of  the  foul  air,  a  draft  being  created 
in  the  flues  by  heat  produced  by  a  lamp,  a  gas-jet,  a  coil 
from  steam-  or  hot-water  pipes  of  the  boiler,  or  from  a 
separate  stack  heater. 

Economy  of  fuel  demands  a  close  construction  of  the 
building  by  lining  the  walls  with  some  non-conducting 
material  like  paper,  building-felt,  etc.,  and  in  very  cold 
weather  it  is  a  matter  requiring  serious  consideration  how 
to  heat  the  necessary  amount  of  cold  fresh  air  that  we  must 
have  for  health.  The  single  thickness  qf  window  around 
which  so  much  fresh  air  would  enter  we  pover  with  storm- 
sash,  our  doors  we  make  close  with  weather-strips,  and  the 
only  source  of  fresh-air  supply  must  be  through  the  cold- 
air  box  that  leads  into  the  furnace  or  ventilating  flues.  If 
this  is  sufficiently  large  and  properly  regulated,  and  a  quick 
draft  is  made  by  the  flue  being  heated  with  a  fire,  gas-jet, 
or  hand-lamp  in  the  grate  or  open  fireplace,  or  a  coil  or 
other  heating  appliance  in  a  separate  flue,  pure  air  will  be 
constantly  supplied;  but  if  the  cold-air  box  is  kept  closed 
and  no  adequate  escape  is  provided,  the  closely  built  house 
becomes  a  place  for  the  generation  of  disease  and  ill  health. 
The  most  approved  method  of  arranging  the  heat-supply 
and  foul-air  escape  is  to  have  the  fprmer  enter  the  room 


26  Landscape  Gardening 

near  the  ceiling  and  the  latter  to  pass  out  near  the  floor  in 
a  separate  flue  on  the  same  side,  thus  causing  a  full  sweep 
and  circulation  of  air  in  all  parts  of  the  room.  If  the  heat 
enters  on  one  side  and  passes  out  on  the  opposite  side,  the 
current  of  heated  air  may  go  directly  across  the  room  in  a 
narrow  current  and  the  air  at  the  sides  of  the  room  be  imper- 
fectly renewed, 

HEATING   THE   HOUSE 

Steam,  hot  water,  and  hot-air  furnaces  are  all  largely 
used  for  heating  dwellings,  and  each  has  strong  advocates 
among  practical  and  scientific  men,  but  which  of  them  will 
give  the  best  results  depends  upon  so  many  conditions  that 
no  attempt  will  be  made  to  decide  the  question  here.  With 
either  steam  or  hot  water  enclosed  in  coils  or  radiators 
separate  systems  of  ventilation  should  be  provided  by  the 
open  fireplace  or  the  separate  flue. 

CONVENIENCE  IN  ARRANGEMENT  OF  ROOMS 

In  many  homes  the  loved  inmates  are  often  in  a  few 
years  forced  to  travel  many  unnecessary  miles  or  suffer 
great  inconvenience  because  of  the  poor  arrangement  of  the 
important  rooms  of  the  house.  The  house  should  be  adapted 
in  every  way  to  the  conditions  of  the  inmates.  If  the 
housework  is  to  be  done  by  members  of  the  family,  the 
kitchen  and  dining-room  should  be  easily  accessible  to  the 
sitting-  or  living-room,  and  every  possible  arrangement  for 
comfort  and  ease  of  doing  the  work  should  be  provided. 
If  servants  are  to  be  employed,  and  such  often  becomes  a 
necessity,  with  the  modern  condition  of  living,  then  the 
kitchen  should  be  as  remote  from  the  sitting-room  as  is 
possible  to  avoid  odors  and  noise,  but  both  kitchen  and 
sitting-room  should  be  easily  accessible  to  the  dining-room 


Ornamenting  New  Homes  27 

It  is  the  practice  of  most  of  our  people  to  build  too  high. 
The  house  with  most  of  the  rooms  on  the  first  floor  has  a 
hominess  and  brooding  character  that  is  especially  adapted 
to  country  life,  and  much  time  and  effort  are  often  saved 
to  the  inmates  by  this  style  of  building,  though  perhaps 
the  cost  of  building  a  given  number  of  rooms  may  be  some- 
what increased.  In  locations  where  the  land  is  low  and  fogs 
and  dampness  are  prevalent  and  where  land  is  expensive 
the  two-  or  even  three-story  building  may  be  advisable. 

An  abundance  of  shelf-  and  closet-room  should  be  con- 
sidered as  important  as  large  rooms.  Neatness,  order,  and 
economy  of  time  are  thus  encouraged  in  all  of  the  inmates 
by  having  a  convenient  place  for  everything  and  keeping 
everything  in  proper  condition  in  its  proper  place.  There 
should  be  an  abundance  of  shed-  and  storage  room  in  the 
outbuildings  for  the  general  comfort  of  all  and  for  keeping 
up  the  necessary  outside  work  of  the  home. 

Sunlight  in  every  room  of  the  house  is  necessary  for  good 
health  and  should  be  provided  for  by  the  location  and 
architecture  of  the  house. 

In  the  square-box  house,  though  undoubtedly  the  cheap- 
est to  build,  some  of  the  rooms  will  receive  but  little  sunlight. 
But  by  arranging  the  rooms  in  more  or  less  of  the  cross 
form,  or  by  the  addition  of  wings,  bay  windows,  etc.,  the 
fullest  amount  of  sunlight  can  be  obtained. 
,-  The  recent  improvements  in  styles  of  dwellings  and  the 
adoption  of  large  or  numerous  windows  are  steps  in  the 
right  direction.  With  the  present  low  price  of  glass,  and 
sash  and  doors  made  so  cheaply  as  they  are  in  our  large 
factories,  large  windows  and  many  of  them  to  provide  an 
abundance  of  light  need  not  add  materially  to  the  first  cost 
of  a  dwelling,  and  by  the  use  of  storm-windows  during  the 
winter  little  or  no  increase  in  cost  of  heating  need  be  ex- 
perienced. 


28  Landscape  Gardening 


PLUMBING 

Every  possible  attention  should  be  given  to  the  plumb- 
ing and  sanitary  arrangements  of  the  house  and  outbuild- 
ings; the  limits  of  this  book,  however,  will  not  allow  of 
an  extended  disqussion  of  the  subject.  The  reader  is  referred 
to  the  many  books  written  by  practical  men  and  women  on 
this  subject,  such  as  "Home" Sanitation,"  by  Mrs.  Ellen  M. 
Richards  and  Marion  Talbot;  "  Sanitary  Drainage  of  Houses 
and  Towns"  and  "Principles  and  Practice  of  House  Drain- 
age," and  other  works  of  Geo.  E.  Waring,  Jr.;  "Women 
Plumbers  and  Doctors,"  by  Mrs.  H.  M.  Plunkett,  and  many 
other  works  on  the  subject  of  house-drainage  and  plumbing 
should  be  carefully  studied. 

The  work  of  plumbing  requires  much  skill  and  patience, 
and  only  skilful  and  practical  men  should  be  employed  to 
do  this  very  important  work.  The  "plumber's  bill"  is 
proverbial,  and  the  complaint  often  made  against  their 
exorbitant  charges  are  in  some  cases  founded  upon  facts, 
but  there  probably  are  as  many  honest  men  in  the  plumbing 
business  as  in  many  other  lines  of  work.  To  have  a  nice, 
thoroughly  fitted  job  of  plumbing  done  requires  time  and 
the  best  material,  together  with  skill  on  the  part  of  the 
workmen,  all  of  which  are  expensive. 


CHAPTER   III 
PREPARATION   OF   THE   LAND 

IN  the  preceding  chapters  the  requirements  of  the  house 
and  other  conditions  have  been  discussed  in  a  general  way, 
and  it  now  becomes  necessary  for  us  to  take  up  in  detail 
the  preparation  of  the  soil  for  the  growth  of  the  various 
kinds  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants  used  for  the  outside 
ornamentation  of  the  home. 

Before  any  decoration  of  the  grounds  can  be  begun  the 
house  must  have  been  finished  and  the  debris  removed  from 
the  land.  It  must  be  fully  understood  that  upon  few,  if 
any,  places  can  there  be  found  all  of  the  varieties  of  soils 
necessary  for  the  growth  of  all  of  the  ornamental  material 
that  it  may  be  desirable  to  grow,  and  often  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  procure  from  outside  sources  such  materials  as  are 
needed  to  improve  it.  In  many  cases,  however,  we  find  the 
soil  well  adpated,  with  slight  additions,  to  the  growth  of 
all  the  kinds  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants  that  it  is  desirable 
to  grow,  in  which  case  the  cost  of  preparation  is  much 
reduced. 

Preliminary  Grading 

When  the  excavation  is  made  for  the  cellar,  the  surface- 
soil  should  be  scraped  to  one  side  and  the  subsoil  to  another, 
that  the  former  may  be  used  to  make  the  surface-covering 
over  any  places  that  may  have  been  deeply  filled  in  with 
poor  material.  Whenever  fills  are  to  be  made  of  consider- 
able depth,  as  the  foundation  of  the  drives  and  walks, 

29 


30  Landscape  Gardening 

basins  and  valleys,  the  surface-soil,  if  it  is  needed  or  can  be 
utilized,  should  be  first  shovelled  or  scraped  to  one  side  and 
then  be  graded  over  such  coarse  material  as  may  be  used 
for  this  filling. 

The  surface  should  slope  away  in  all  directions  from  the 
house,  so  that  there  shall  be  no  surface-water  standing  at 
any  time  during  the  year  within  several  yards  of  it,  and  in 
no  place  on  the  lawn  should  there  be  basins  where  the  water 
shall  stand  for  any  length  of  time  after  heavy  showers,  or 
during  heavy  rains  or  melting  snows  in  the  winter  and 
spring.  In  the  latter  case,  especially  if  ice  is  formed  upon 
the  lawn,  the  grass  will  often  be  smothered  (winter-killed) 
or  drowned  out,  so  that  much  labor  will  be  required  to  reseed 
and  bring  it  into  good  condition  again.  Thorough  and 
deep  underdraining  will  in  a  measure  overcome  this  diffi- 
culty, but  when  the  ground  is  frozen  water  will  stand  on 
the  surface,  the  grass  will  be  killed  out,  and  a  growth  of  wild 
grasses  and  weeds  often  come  in  that  it  is  almost  impossible 
to  eradicate. 

The  preliminary  grading  should  be  done  as  soon  after  the 
completion  of  the  house  as  possible,  that  the  land  may 
become  perfectly  settled  before  sowing  the  grass-seed  or 
setting  the  trees  and  shrubs. 

Obtaining  the  Grade 

To  obtain  the  desired  smooth  grade,  flowing  outline,  and 
curve  of  surface,  where  the  services  of  the  skilled  civil 
engineer  is  not  available,  various  expedients  are  resorted  to. 
Many  persons  with  a  quick  eye,  trained  to  detect  uneven- 
ness  of  surface  or  irregularity  and  unsymmetry  of  form, 
can  obtain  very  good  results  without  the  aid  of  any  instru- 
ments, but  the  majority  will  be  obliged  to  call  to  their  aid 
at  least  the  carpenter's  or  mason's  level  and  more  or  less 
small  stakes.  With  this  instrument  resting  on  a  box  or 


Preparation  of  the  Land 


31 


block  with  a  broad  base,  one  may  obtain  the  levels  at  impor- 
tant points  on  the  ground,  and  then  by  stretching  strings 
from  stake  to  stake,  as  shown  in  Figs.  9  and  10,  easily  judge 
of  the  comparative  height  of  each  point,  and  make  up  the 


IB 


FIG.  9. — Illustrating  Methods  of  Obtaining  Grade. 


FIG.  10. — Illustrating  Methods  of  Obtaining  Grade. 

grade-lines  and  mark  on  the  stake  the  necessary  depth  of 
fill  or  excavation  to  be  made  at  each  stake.  In  all  this  work 
the  different  grade-lines  must  be  made  to  blend  together 
so  as  to  form  a  pleasing  whole. 

Where  the  land  is  rough  and  more  or  less  covered  with 


32 


Landscape  Gardening 


stones  and  stumps  or  the  roots  of  large  growing  trees,  much 
hand  labor  must  be  resorted  to,  spading  and  digging  up  the 
soil  about  the  rocks,  filling  in  with  good  soil  where  the 
surface-soil  is  poor  and  shallow,  and  rounding  and  smooth- 
ing up  to  the  required  grade.  If  the  roots  of  living  trees 


FIG.  ii.— A  "Well"  about  Tree  with  Roots  Deeply  Covered. 

are  near  the  surface,  deep  working  must  be  avoided,  but 
where  feasible  a  covering  of  six  to  eight  inches  of  good  soil 
over  these  roots  will  often  prove  the  cheapest  way  of  making 
a  good  surface  for  the  lawn.  Deeper  covering  than  this 
must  be  avoided,  as  it  often  results  in  the  death  of  the 


FIG.  12. — Illustrates  Covering  the  Roots  on  Only  One  Side. 

trees.  If  it  becomes  necessary  to  cover  deeper  than  the 
above,  a  "well"  should  be  made  about  the  trunk,  as  in 
Fig.  n,  until  the  roots  have  had  time  to  work  to  the  sur- 
face. This  well  may  be  from  4  to  8  feet  in  diameter,  accord- 
ing to  the  size  of  the  tree  and  depth  of  covering.  After 


Preparation  of  the  Land  33 

two  or  three  seasons  of  growth,  when  the  roots  have  worked 
through  the  soil  to  the  surface,  this  space  may  be  filled  in 
with  safety. 

If  the  covering  of  soil  is  over  only  a  part  of  the  roots  of 
the  tree,  as  in  Fig.  12,  the  roots  coming  to  the  surface  on 
one  side,  little  injury  need  be  feared  unless  there  is  a  great 
depth  of  soil  about  the  trunk,  in  which  case  the  "well" 
should  be  made. 

It  is  very  difficult  to  make  grass  grow  to  great  perfection 
under  the  shade  of  trees  and  where  the  tree-roots  fill  the 
ground,  and  the  main  dependence  must  be  on  surface-dress- 
ing with  rich  soil  or  compost  and  frequent  seeding. 

The  Lawn 

Upon  no  one  thing  does  so  much  depend  in  making 
beautiful  home  grounds  as  upon  a  good  lawn,  and  after 
the  buildings  and  the  preliminary  grading  are  completed 
come  the  smoothing  up  and  preparation  of  the  soil  for  the 
grass  carpet  or  "groundwork"  of  the  home-picture,  with- 
out which  no  picture,  whether  on  canvas  or  made  of  living 
plant-growths,  is  complete. 

A  good  lawn  cannot  be  made  except  on  a  rich  soil,  and 
if  this  is  not  the  natural  character  of  the  land  in  hand  the 
first  thing  to  do  is  to  make  it  rich  and  as  deep  as  possible. 

MANURING  THE   LAWN 

Where  the  land  is  free  from  stumps,  stones,  or  other 
obstructions,  a  liberal  dressing — from  10  to  15  cords  per 
acre — of  rich  compost  should  be  ploughed  under  as  deep  as 
possible.  If  the  land  is  full  of  tree-roots  and  large  rocks, 
this  material  must  be  spaded  in  or  worked  into  the  surface 
in  some  way.  In  addition  to  the  above  application  2  or  3 
cords  of  well-decomposed  fine  compost,  or  from  J  to  i  ton 


34  Landscape  Gardening 

per  acre  of  any  of  the  standard  lawn  fertilizers  should  be 
thoroughly  worked  in  upon  the  surface.  While  commercial 
fertilizers  alone  often  give  good  results,  the  effect  of  a  heavy 
coating  of  stable  manure  is  such  as  to  make  the  land  less 
subject  to  drouth.  Fertilizers  containing  substances  like 
nitrate  of  soda,  muriate  of  potash,  etc.,  should  be  used  with 
caution,  as  they  often  injure  the  young  grass  plants.  More 
failures  in  lawn-making  come  from  a  scanty  supply  of 
plant-food  in  the  soil  than  from  any  other  reason,  and  the 
poorer  the  soil  the  more  liberal  must  be  the  supply  of 
plant-food  used. 


FIG.  13. — Improper  Grading  about  Dwelling. 


MAKING   THE    SURFACE 

After  the  fertilizing-materials  have  been  applied  the 
land  should  be  thoroughly  worked  and  smoothed  until  a 
perfect  seed-bed  is  obtained. 

In  grading  away  from  buildings  a  perfect  level  should  be 
avoided.  Fig.  13  illustrates  a  very  unnatural  and  unsatis- 
factory grade,  for  the  reason  that  the  surface-water  will  not 
readily  pass  away,  while  the  rounded  surface  that  might  be 
as  well  produced  is  much  more  natural  and  beautiful.  If 
graded  to  a  curved  line  running  from  the  base  of  the  build- 


Preparation  of  the  Land 


35 


ing  in  this  figure  to  the  outer  edge  of  the  lot,  much  more 
pleasing  results  would  be  obtained. 

The  perfectly  flat  surface  is  scarcely  ever  found  in  nature 
except  on  the  surface  of  water  or  boggy  lowlands,  and  is  very 


FIG.  14. — Well-graded  Lawn. 

difficult  to  ornament.  The  terrace  also  in  the  middle  of 
Fig.  13  is  an  unnatural  feature,  and  hard  to  keep  in  perfect 
condition.  In  Fig.  14  is  shown  a  well-graded  surface  with 
flowing  outline.  The  effect  of  a  level  or  flat  surface  is  to 
give  the  impression  of  limited  extent,  while  the  rounded 


36 


Landscape  Gardening 


surface,  as  shown  in  Figs.  15  and  16,  gives  the  impression  of 
greater  extent.     The  last  figure  illustrates  a  steeper  grade 


FIG.  15. — Grading  to  Curved  Surface, 

than  is  shown  by  Fig.  13,  but  even  with  the  same  grade  or 
slope  a  much  more  pleasing  effect  is  produced  and  the  ground 


FIG.  1 6. — Grading  to  Curved  Surface. 

made  much  more  susceptible  to  beautiful  decoration. 

Figs.  1 6  and  17  still  further  illustrate  the  receding  and 


FIG.  1 7. — Grading  to  Curved  Surface. 

rounded  outlines  desirable  even  if  the  grade  be  very  great. 
In  Fig.  17  greater  variety  of  surface  is  produced,  affording 
the  appearance  of  much  greater  extent. 


Preparation  of  the  Land  37 

SETTLING   THE    SOIL 

To  obtain  a  perfectly  even,  smooth  surface,  the  land 
should  be  raked,  then  rolled,  the  depressions  made  by  the 
roller  filled  up,  then  raked  again,  and  this  work  repeated 
until  a  satisfactory  surface  and  a  good  seed-bed  are  obtained. 

All  trees  and  shrubs  should,  if  possible,  be  planted  before 
the  grass-seed  is  sown.  If  planting  cannot  be  done  at  this 
time,  it  should  be  delayed  until  the  grass  has  become  well 
established;  otherwise  the  lawn  will  be  very  much  cut  up 
in  the  process  of  planting. 

LAWN   GRASSES 

Only  those  grasses  that  make  a  fine  spreading  growth, 
i.e.,  tiller  or  spread  by  underground  stems,  give  good  results 
in  lawn-making.  The  best  kinds  for  general  purposes  are 
the  bent  grasses  or  redtop  (Agrostis  alba,  A.  mdgaris,  and 
A.  stolonifera)  and  June-grass  or  Kentucky  blue-grass  (Poa 
pratensis),  all  of  which  spread  rapidly  by  underground  stems, 
that  quickly  fill  up  any  vacant  spaces  between  the  grass- 
plants  and  thus  prevent  the  growth  of  weeds.  They  also 
succeed  on  a  greater  variety  of  soils  than  almost  any  other 
varieties.  On  very  light  land  and  under  shade  of  trees  there 
might  be  added  to  the  above  the  wire-grass  (Poa  compressa) 
and  sheep's  fescue-grass  (Festuca  ovina)  and  its  varieties, 
although  the  latter  grows  somewhat  in  tufts.  White  clover 
(Trifolium  repens)  is  generally  used  in  making  a  lawn,  as  it 
grows  close  to  the  ground  and  fills  up  all  spaces  not  occupied 
by  the  grassroots,  thus  preventing  the  growth  of  weeds. 
None  of  the  coarser  grasses,  like  timothy  (Phleum  pratense), 
orchard-grass  (Dactylis  glomerata),  tall  fescue  (Festuca 
elatior),  and  rye-grass  (Lolium  perenne),  have  been  found 
satisfactory  by  the  author  except  where  immediate  effect 
is  of  more  importance  than  a  permanent  and  fine  lawn. 


38  Landscape  Gardening 


TIME   FOR    SEEDING 

While  the  spring  is  the  best  time  in  which  to  seed  a  new 
lawn,  it  may  be  done  at  any  time  if  the  proper  conditions 
of  moisture  can  be  obtained.  A  very  large  amount  of 
manure  or  fertilizer  and  a  moist  condition  of  the  soil  will 
enable  one  to  seed  a  lawn  successfully  at  almost  any  time 
of  the  year,  but  these  conditions  are  not  so  certainly  secured 
at  any  other  time  as  in  the  spring.  In  fall  seeding,  unless 
done  very  early,  the  young  plantlets  are  likely  to  be  thrown 
out  by  the  frosts  and  a  second  seeding  be  required  in  the 
spring.  Another  reason  why  spring  is  better  than  sum- 
mer for  seeding  is  that  weed-seeds  do  not  grow  so  readily 
and  abundantly  at  this  time.  Coarse  stable  manure  should 
never  be  used  upon  the  surface  of  the  land,  because  as  it  is 
usually  unfermented,  it  contains  much  live  weed  seed 
which  will  immediately  start  into  growth;  but,  if  turned 
deeply  under,  nothing  can  be  better  to  hold  the  moisture  in 
the  soil  and  encourage  deep  rooting  of  the  grasses. 

QUANTITY    OF    SEED   REQUIRED 

The  amount  of  seed  to  be  used  will  depend  somewhat 
upon  the  season  when  sown  and  the  probable  amount  of 
weed-seeds  in  the  soil  that  will  germinate  with  the  grass- 
seed.  When  sown  in  April,  May,  or  September,  less  seed 
should  be  used  than  if  sown  in  June,  July,  or  August,  and 
more  seed  will  be  needed  when  the  land  is  full  of  weed- 
seeds  than  when  it  is  comparatively  free  from  such 
pests. 

It  is  always  best  to  use  an  abundance  of  seed,  as  there 
may  be  some  uncertainty  of  its  all  germinating.  Perhaps 
the  quantity  per  acre  that  will  give  the  best  results  under 
the  average  conditions  is  2  bu.  of  bent-grass,  i.e.,  red-top 
or  its  varieties,  2  bu.  of  June-grass,  and  10  Ibs.  of  white 


Preparation  of  the  Land  39 

clover.  One-half  of  this  quantity  would  be  sufficient  if  it 
all  was  certain  to  germinate  and  if  no  weed-seeds  started 
into  growth. 

SOWING   THE   SEED 

After  the  land  has  been  made  perfectly  smooth  and  fine 
by  raking,  rolling,  and  reraldng  the  seed  should  be  divided 
into  two  or  more  lots.  The  first  lot  is  then  sown  in  strips 
or  lands,  as  evenly  over  the  surface  as  is  possible,  and  then 
raked  in,  taking  care  not  to  move  the  soil  from  place  to 
place,  thus  bunching  up  the  grass-seed  with  it.  The  second 
lot  of  seed  is  then  sown  in  strips  crossing  the  land  at  right 
angles  to  the  first  sowing,  thus  securing  the  most  even 
distribution  of  the  seed  possible. 

A  rake  with  long  teeth  set  about  2  inches  apart  is  better 
than  the  common  iron-toothed  garden-rake.  If  nothing 
better  can  be  obtained,  the  common  wooden  hay-rake  will 
be  found  to  work  well. 

It  is  the  general  practice  to  roll  the  ground  with  the 
garden-roller  after  the  seed  is  sown,  but  in  extremely  hot 
and  dry  weather,  while  the  soil  may  be  more  thoroughly 
firmed  about  the  seed  by  rolling,  the  smooth  rolled  surface 
leaves  the  young  seedling  so  much  exposed  to  the  action  of 
burning  sun  and  drying  winds  that  if  a  good  seed  bed  has 
been  made  grass  often  does  better  if  the  surface  is  not 
rolled  at  all. 

BORDERING   WALKS   AND  DRIVES   WITH  TURF 

Before  the  seed  is  sown,  if  the  edges  of  walks  and  drives, 
flower  beds,  etc.,  are  bordered  with  strips  of  fine  turf  on  each 
side,  much  after  labor  will  be  saved,  for  it  is  very  difficult 
to  trim  up  the  edges  of  a  newly  seeded  lawn  without  destroy- 
ing much  of  the  grass;  and  until  the  walk  is  completed  and 
well  settled  there  is  more  or  less  danger  that  the  outline  will 


40  Landscape  Gardening 

be  changed  or  edges  defaced  by  passage  over  them.  Water  is 
necessary  to  make  a  perfect  lawn  on  thin  soil,  but  watering 
a  newly  seeded  lawn,  unless  the  water  is  applied  in  a  very  fine 
mist,  will  do  harm  rather  than  good,  as  the  surface  is  so  com- 
pacted that  evaporation  is  greatly  increased.  When  water- 
ing an  established  lawn  the  water  should  be  applied  with  a 
very  fine  nozzle  and  enough  applied  to  wet  down  to  the  lower 
grass  roots.  If  only  an  inch  or  two  of  the  surface  is  wet  the 
grass  roots  will  grow  toward  the  surface  and  be  more  injured 
if  dry  weather  continues. 

LAWN   MADE    OF   TURF 

Where  fine,  close  turf  composed  of  desirable  grasses  can 
be  obtained,  if  the  area  is  not  very  extensive,  this  is  the  best 
way  to  establish  a  good  lawn.  It  has  the  advantage 
that  it  may  be  done  with  perfect  success  during  the  hottest 
weather,  or  at  any  time  when  the  ground  can  be  worked. 
The  land  should  be  as  carefully  levelled  up  and  settled  as 
for  seeding  and  be  made  equally  rich  if  the  best  results 
are  desired,  though  a  turf  may  be  formed  in  this  way  on 
very  poor  soil,  but  it  will  soon  run  out  under  such  condi- 
tions. In  laying  the  turf  it  should  be  very  firmly  pounded 
down  and  settled  into  the  soft  soil  under  it;  otherwise  it 
soon  dries  up  in  times  of  drouth.  If  turf  is  not  abundant, 
it  may  be  laid  in  strips  one  or  two  feet  apart  and  the  inter- 
vening space  be  seeded,  when  the  roots  from  these  strips 
will  spread  and  a  compact  turf  soon  be  formed  over  the 
whole  ground.  Turf  will  grow  better  if  it  is  laid  so  that 
after  settling  it  is  J  of  an  inch  below  the  grade,  as  water  is 
better  held  and  fine  soil  will  soon  fill  the  surface  up  to 
the  grade. 

Great  care  must  be  exercised  on  a  newly  seeded  lawn  that 
it  is  not  cut  up  or  disfigured  by  walking  over  it  or  allowing 
teams  or  animals  on  its  surface.  The  lawn-mower  should 


Preparation  of  the  Land  41 

not  be  allowed  upon  it  until  the  turf  has  become  sufficiently 
firm  to  prevent  the  wheels  from  cutting  in  while  turning 
the  corners.  The  first  two  or  three  cuttings  should  be  done 
with  the  hand-scythe  or  grass-hook.  (Note  turf  on  lawn 
in  Fig.  14,  p.  35.) 

CLIPPING  THE   LAWN 

Frequent  clipping  of  the  lawn,  especially  during  the  cool 
weather  of  spring  and  early  fall,  is  necessary  to  make  a  fine 
close  turf  and  allowing  all  of  the  clippings  to  fall  on  the 
ground  to  decay  is  the  "perfection  of  cultivation."  The 
lawn-mower  should  be  run  at  least  once  each  week,  and  in 
case  of  very  warm  moist  weather  it  may  be  necessary  to 
run  it  twice  or  more.  If  the  grass  becomes  so  tall  and 
heavy  that  the  clippings  do  not  settle  down  at  once 
among  the  growing  blades,  it  should  be  caught  in  the 
basket  attached  to  the  mower  or  be  raked  up  and  car- 
ried away;  for  if  a  heavy  growth  is  allowed  to  lie  on  the 
ground  the  roots  of  the  grasses,  are  often  destroyed  dur- 
ing hot  moist  weather,  and  weeds  will  be  prompt  to  start 
in  their  place.  Clipping  should  be  frequent  enough  that  it 
may  settle  down  among  the  grass  plants.  The  modern 
improvements  in  lawn-mowers  leave  but  little  to  be  desired 
in  the  line  of  perfection,  but  which  of  the  many  machines 
is  the  best  is  a  question  I  shall  not  attempt  to  settle  here. 
The  horse  mower  is  a  great-labor-saving  machine  where 
large  areas  are  to  be  cut,  though  it  is  not  always  possible  to 
do  as  good  work  as  is  done  by  the  hand-mowers,  and  the 
tracks  made  by  the  horse,  unless  lawnshoes  are  worn, 
seriously  disfigure  a  soft  or  newly  made  lawn.  To  enable 
the  mower  to  run  up  close  to  shrubbery  and  borders  to  cut 
the  grass  so  that  no  hand-clipping  need  be  done,  we  have 
practised  taking  out  a  circle  of  turf  about  one  foot  from  the 
trunk  of  trees  or  the  edge  of  a  clump  of  shrubs  and 


42  Landscape  Gardening 

borders.  This  enables  the  machine  to  take  all  of  the  grass 
clean  and  leaves  nothing  for  the  grass-hook  to  cut.  (See 
Specimen  Lilac.)  (Fig.  134,  p.  238). 

DRESSING  AND  RENEWING  THE   LAWN 

Frequent  dressings  of  fine  compost  or  special  fertilizers 
in  the  fall  or  spring  are  necessary  to  keep  any  lawn  in  good 
condition,  and  especially  if  on  poor  soil  or  under  the  shade 
of  large  trees,  whose  roots  take  up  the  plant-food  in  the  soil 
with  great  rapidity. 

Covering  the  lawn  with  coarse  manure  in  the  fall,  to  lie 
more  or  less  exposed  to  view,  is  very  objectionable  and 
unnecessary,  as  a  fine  compost  is  equally  effective  in  pro- 
ducing good  growth  and  gives  off  no  offensive  odors.  Quickly 
soluble  fertilizer,  like  nitrate  of  soda,  sulphate  of  ammonia, 
muriate  or  sulphate  of  potash,  and  acid  phosphate  may  be 
used  in  limited  quantities — from  100  to  200  Ibs.  per  acre 
on  an  established  lawn;  but  on  a  new  one  these  salts  cannot 
be  safely  used  unless  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  soil  some 
time  before  seeding.  Fine-ground  bone,  fine  fish,  cotton- 
seed meal  and  basic  slag  in  place  of  the  nitrates  may  be 
safely  used  under  any  conditions  with  no  fear  of  injury  to 
the  roots  or  leaves  of  the  young  grasses.  In  place  of  acid 
phlsphate,  basic  slag  may  be  used  400  to  800  Ibs.  per  acre. 

Special  lawn-fertilizers,  manufactured  by  nearly  all  of  the 
large  fertilizer-dealers,  are  composed  of  materials  well  suited 
to  make  a  rapid  growth  of  lawn-grasses,  but  the  same 
elements  used  in  their  unmixed  condition  will  cost  very 
much  less  and  give  equally  good  results. 

The  quickly  soluble  fertilizing-materials,  i.e.,  salts  of 
ammonia,  soda,  and  potash,  should  be  sown  just  as  growth 
is  beginning  in  the  spring,  while  the  less  soluble,  i.e.,  bone, 
fish,  cotton-seed,  basic  slag,  etc.,  may  be  sown  in  the  fall  or 
during  the  winter. 


Preparation  of  the  Land  43 


RESEEDING   THE   LAWN 

Fertilizing-materials  alone  will  not  keep  the  lawn  in  per- 
fect condition,  but  grass-seed  should  be  frequently  sown 
and  raked  in  with  the  compost  or  fertilizers.  Perhaps  the 
best  time  to  sow  this  seed  is  in  August,  nature's  natural 
seeding-time,  and  in  the  early  spring  just  as  the  frost  is 
working  out  of  the  ground. 

The  quantity  to  be  used  may  vary  from  one  to  two  bushels 
of  seed  per  acre,  scattering  it  most  freely  where  the  soil 
is  the  poorest  or  where  weeds  are  most  likely  to  come  into 
the  lawn.  If  a  heavy  roller  is  run  over  the  established  lawn 
surface  after  the  seed  and  fertilizers  have  been  sown,  the  seed 
will  germinate  more  quickly  and  there  cannot  be  any  injury 
from  its  use  as  there  would  be  on  land  newly  seeded. 


CHAPTER  IV 
TREES— THEIR  PLANTING  AND    CARE 

THE  lawn  may  be  considered  the  canvas  upon  which  the 
home-picture  is  to  be  made,  and  trees  and  shrubs,  together 
with  the  buildings,  make  up  the  most  important  materials 
to  be  used  in  the  work,  and  no  comfortable  or  beautiful 
home  can  be  made  without  them.  No  country  can  boast  of 
so  many  beautiful  trees  and  shrubs  as  the  United  States, 
and,  with  the  addition  of  the  choicest  species  and  varieties 
from  many  countries  now  offered  by  our  nurserymen,  we 
have  the  greatest  wealth  of  material  for  the  most  elaborate 
work  of  home  decoration. 

In  Chapter  X  will  be  found  a  brief  description  of  the 
most  desirable  trees  and  shrubs  for  growth  in  the  United 
States,  giving  special  conditions  required  for  perfect  growth 
of  each  kind,  to  which  the  reader  is  referred. 

Shade  Needed  about  the  Home 

Some  shade  about  the  house  is  an  absolute  necessity  for 
comfort  during  the  hot  days  of  our  summer  months,  and 
much  shelter  may  be  afforded  by  them  during  our  bleak 
and  stormy  winters.  But,  more  than  this,  they  are  neces- 
sary in  many  places  to  cover  up  unsightly  or  unpleasant 
objects,  without  covering  up  desirable  views,  to  form  back- 
grounds for  other  ornamental  materials,  and  also  for  their 
own  individual  beauty  and  the  variety  they  afford  in  their 
varying  shades  of  color  and  form.  What  beautiful  shades 
and  tints  of  color  may  be  found  in  the  foliage  of  different 
trees  and  in  the  same  trees  at  different  seasons  of  the  year, 

44 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Gare  45 

and  when  skilfully  arranged  and  blended  together  what 
beautiful  pictures  may  be  made  with  them! 

Some  of  our  trees  produce  beautiful  flowers,  others  beauti- 
fully colored  leaves;  some  take  the  spiry  form,  and  others 
grow  with  well-rounded  outline;  some  grow  with  a  spread- 
ing or  graceful  habit,  while  others  are  close  and  massive 
in  their  build;  some  have  thick  and  compact  foliage,  while 
others  are  provided  with  light  and  airy  leaves; — and  the 
true  lover  of  nature  will  find  much  pleasure  in  the  study  of 
the  numberless  forms  and  varieties,  and  especially  in  arrang- 
ing them  so  as  to  obtain  the  most  real  beauty  possible. 

A  Plan 

Before  any  planting  is  done  a  plan  of  arrangement  must 
be  decided  upon.  As  with  plans  for  dwellings,  much  good 
work  can  be  and  is  done  by  amateurs  in  making  plans  for 
ornamental  planting,  but  unless  one  has  made  considerable 
study  of  the  materials  to  be  used  and  the  results  to  be 
obtained  by  their  combination,  and  has  investigated  all  of 
the  points  as  to  the  special  requirements  of  soil,  planting, 
training,  etc.,  of  each  species  or  variety,  the  advice  of  an 
expert  should  be  sought. 

While  in  making  plans  for  the  arrangement  of  ornamental 
trees,  shrubs,  etc.,  the  money  paid  to  a  skilled  landscape- 
gardener  for  a  detailed  plan  often  saves  many  times  this 
amount,  I  would  not  discourage  the  study  of  the  landscape 
art  by  advising  every  one  to  have  a  plan  made  by  a  trained 
landscape  engineer;  for  the  more  general  the  knowledge 
among  our  people  there  can  be  upon  any  subject  the  better 
it  will  be  for  the  whole  community,  while  the  monopoly  of 
any  line  of  education  or  knowledge  by  the  few  is  a  crime 
and  an  injury  to  the  people  as  a  whole;  and  many  an  ama- 
teur has  been  able  to  produce  results  that  have  not  been 
reached  by  members  of  the  profession. 


46 


Landscape  Gardening 


Dwelling  under  a  Large  Tree 

The  details  of  the  plan  of  arrangement  and  what  trees 
and  how  many  to  use  must  be  largely  settled  by  the  require- 
ments of  the  place  to  be  decorated  and  the  conditions  and 
tastes  of  the  owner.  On  grounds  of  considerable  extent 


FIG.  18. — Dwelling  under  a  Large  Oak. 

with  an  abundance  of  space  large  broad  spreading  trees  in 
considerable  variety  can  be  used,  while  in  the  village  lot 
few,  if  any,  large  trees  are  desirable.  Yet  under  some  con- 
ditions a  single  large  tree  not  far  from  the  dwelling,  even 
on  a  small  lot,  may  be  productive  of  much  comfort  and 
pleasure,  and,  while  very  little  variety  may  be  obtained,  the 
effect  is  often  one  of  real  beauty, 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care 


47 


Improving  Established  Trees 

In  Chapter  VII  brief  reference  is  made  to  the  treatment 
of  trees  already  on  the  grounds.  These,  if  large,  should 
be  very  carefully  considered,  and  not  a  single  healthy 


FIG.  19.  FIG.  20. 

FIGS.  19,  20.— Trees  as  Often  Found  by  the  Roadside. 

tree  be  destroyed  unless  for  a  positively  good  reason;  for 
the  most  quickly  growing  trees  that  we  have  will  not  reach 
the  size  to  afford  much  shade  until  they  are  fifteen  to  twenty 
years  of  age,  and  if  what  we  have  already  growing  are  not 
quite  what  we  wish  we  may  preserve  them  until  such  a  time 
as  other  and  more  desirable  trees  have  grown  up  to  take  their 
place.  Fig.  20  shows  a  perfect  young  tree. 
The  condition  of  those  trees  often  found  growing  by  the 


48 


Landscape  Gardening 


roadside,  especially  where  they  have  grown  closely  together, 
is  generally  such  that  severe  trimming  and  some  training 
may  be  necessary  to  bring  them  up  to  the  most  beautiful 
and  perfect  condition;  but  trees  with  sound  trunks  and 
good  roots  in  good  soil  even  though  large  and  ill-shaped 
may  be  made  ornamental.  Figs.  19,  22,  and  23  illustrate 
trees  as  they  are  often  found,  growing  by  the  road- 


FIG.  21.  FIG.  22.  FIG.  23. 

FIGS.  21-23. — Trees  as  Often  Found  on  Building-lots. 

side  or  pastures,  and  the  dotted  lines  a  show  where  they 
should  be  cut  or  headed  back  to  give  them  the  proper  start 
to  renew  their  growth.  Fig.  21  shows  a  very  tall  tree  with 
branches  and  leaves  so  far  from  the  ground  that  when  the 
foliage  is  covered  with  moisture  or  the  shoots  with  ice  or 
snow  it  may  be  injured  by  bending  to  the  ground;  when  if 
cut  as  shown  at  a  to  the  height  desired  and  a  leader  encour- 
aged to  form  the  centre  of  the  growth,  with  laterals  at 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care 


49 


intervals  of  from  six  to  ten  inches  apart,  as  perfect  a  tree 
will  be  formed  as  if  grown  from  seed  in  full  exposure  or 
obtained  from  the  nursery  (see  Fig.  20).  When  cut  off  in 
this  way,  the  branches  should  not  be  allowed  to  grow  in  a 
cluster  at  the  top,  as  in  Fig.  25,  thus  forming  a  fork  which 
is  sure,  sooner  or  later,  to  break  down  from  weight  of  foliage, 
crowding  of  branches,  or  ice  and  snow.  Many  trees  grow  up 


/ 


FIG.  24.  FIG.  25.  FIG.  26. 

FIG.  24. — Trees  as  Often  Found  on  Building-lots. 
FIG.  25. — Clustered  Growth  of  Branches. 
FIG.  26. — Lines  for  the  Proper  Trimming  of  Fig.  25. 

with  forked  branches  not  very  far  from  the  ground,  as  shown 
in  Figs.  22  and  23,  which  when  they  reach  large  size  will 
split  down  and  thus  ruin  the  whole  tree.  In  this  case  the 
smaller  of  the  two  forked,  branches  should  be  cut  away  at 
line  a,  the  head  be  cut  back  if  needed,  and  a  perfectly  formed 
tree  will  be  the  result.  This  fork  is  sometimes  near  the  ground 
and  (Fig.  22)  the  sooner  one  of  the  trunks  (Fig.  23)  is  cut 


50  Landscape  Gardening 

away  the  better.  In  Fig.  19  is  shown  a  one-sided  tree,  which 
may  be  put  into  condition  to  make  a  good  form  by  cutting 
off  the  branches  at  the  lines  a,  when  with  full  exposure  to 
air  and  sunlight  it  will  take  an  upright  symmetrical  growth. 

Pruning  Old  Trees 

Fig.  27  illustrates  an  old  tree  which  has  been  severely 
pruned.     Before   pruning,    long    straggling   branches   were 


FIG.  27.— An  Old  Tree  Headed  Back. 

exposed  to  the  hot  sun  and  drying  winds  and  the  sap  so 
retarded  that  very  little  new  growth  could  be  made.  If 
these  branches  be  headed  back  as  shown  in  the  figure,  a 
new  growth  will  soon  be  sent  out,  the  trunk  and  branches 
soon  be  clothed  and  protected,  and  the  form  much  improved. 
The  best  instance  of  the  success  of  this  kind  of  pruning  to 
which  I  can  call  the  reader's  attention  may  be  seen  at  the 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care  51 

Arnold  Arboretum  at  Jamaica  Plains,  Mass.,  where  under 
the  skilful  management  of  Prof.  C.  S.  Sargent  and  Jackson 
Dawson,  the  large,  more  or  less  unsymmetrical  forest  trees 
upon  the  grounds  when  the  planting  of  other  trees  began 
have  become  most  beautiful  and  symmetrical  trees. 

Covering  Wounds 

Whenever  large  branches  are  cut  off  or  wounds  are  made 
upon  the  trunk  or  branches,  the  injured  part  should  be 
thickly  covered  over  with  asphaltum  or  linseed-oil  paint. 
This  will  prevent  very  rapid  decay  of  the  wood,  and  when 
grown  over  the  injured  parts  will  remain  comparatively 
sound  for  many  years. 

Selection  of  Varieties 

In  the  selection  of  varieties  the  inexperienced  especially 
must  give  the  matter  very  careful  consideration.  Depend- 
ence cannot  be  placed  on  the  often  exaggerated  descriptions 
found  in  the  average  nurseryman's  catalogue.  Especially 
is  this  true  of  new  varieties,  for  no  one  can  tell  just  how 
they  will  do  under  differing  conditions  and  what  insects  or 
diseases  may  be  found  to  destroy  them  as  they  grow  toward 
maturity;  and  nothing  should  be  planted,  in  the  main 
features  of  the  place  at  least,  which  has  not  been  fully  tested 
under  many  varying  conditions.  New  and  untried  things 
should,  if  planted  at  all,  be  put  where  they  may  be  replaced, 
should  they  fail,  without  injury  to  the  main  features  of  the 
grounds.  , 

With  the  large  numbers  of  parks,  arboretums,  and  exten- 
sive planting  on  large  estates,  and  especially  the  experiment- 
stations  in  all  of  our  States,  any  one  can  learn  what  are 
desirable  trees  and  shrubs  for  any  given  locality,  and  there 


52  Landscape  Gardening 

is  no  need  for  taking  any  risk  in  planting  ornamental  grounds 
with  untried  varieties. 

In  selecting  the  varieties  best  adapted  to  one's  own 
locality  a  few  visits  to  some  of  the  above-mentioned  places, 
a  careful  inspection  of  such  as  may  be  found  growing  in 
the  vicinity,  and  a  study  of  their  adaptability  to  the  various 
kinds  of  soil  will  enable  one  to  make  a  satisfactory  selec- 
tion. 

Size  of  Trees 

The  size  to  which  different  kinds  of  trees  will  grow  must 
be  fully  understood,  although  this  will  vary  very  much  with 
the  condition  of  the  soil  in  which  they  are  planted. 

While  young  they  occupy  but  little  space,  and  the  desire 
to  have  enough  planted  to  give  immediate  effect  often  leads 
to  too  close  planting.  The  larger  the  space  to  be  decorated 
the  more  and  larger  trees  may  be  used  and  the  greater 
variety  obtained. 

The  reader  is  again  urged  to  study  carefully  the  descrip- 
tions in  Chapter  X. 

Distance  for  Planting 

Specimen  trees  should  never  be  planted  so  closely  that 
they  will  touch,  even  when  fully  grown;  but  if  grouped  for 
the  formation  of  a  grove,  for  dense  shade,  close  planting  is 
advisable,  and  the  more  closely  planted  the  taller  will  they 
grow  and  the  fewer  will  be  the  lower  branches. 

While  of  small  size  it  may  be  well  to  plant  closely  for 
immediate  effect,  removing  the  least  desirable  specimens 
before  they  touch  so  as  to  injure  the  more  valuable. 

For  avenues,  for  shade  of  walks  and  drives,  the  distance 
should  be  such  as  to  give  full  development  and  yet  produce 
the  desired  shade. 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care  53 

If  the  walk  or  roadway-space  is  narrow,  the  distance 
lengthwise  may  be  much  greater  than  across  the  space,  as 
in  Fig.  28.  For  the  large-growing  trees,  like  the  elm  and 
oak,  and  in  deep,  strong  soil,  50  feet  is  about  the  best  distance 
for  roadside  shade,  and  for  the  maples,  poplars,  tulip-tree, 
etc.,  not  less  than  30  to  40  feet.  If  shade  is  desired  more 
quickly  than  can  be  obtained  by  full  growth,  the  trees  may 
be  set  out  at  half  the  above  distances,  and  then  when  they 
come  together  so  as  to  endanger  the  beauty  of  all  every  other 
one  may  be  cut  out.  The  great  danger  of  this  practice, 
however,  is  that  we  are  liable  to  neglect  the  desired  thinning 
out  until  too  late.  If  this  close  planting  is  practised,  it 


FIG.  28. — Arrangement  of  Trees  on  Narrow  Streets,  Drives,  or  Walks. 

must  be  borne  in  mind  that  two  or  more  trees  planted  on  a 
given  space  will  require  more  plant-food  and  more  care  than 
one,  but,  on  the  other  hand,  in  very  exposed  places  one  may 
serve  more  or  less  as  a  shelter  for  the  others,  and  thus  a 
better  growth  be  obtained  than  if  but  one  were  planted. 

Where  to  Obtain  Trees 

With  the  large  number  of  good  nurseries  in  the  country 
no  one  need  find  any  difficulty  in  obtaining  good  trees  for 
planting.  Other  things  being  equal,  the  nearer  home  the 
trees  are  obtained  the  better,  as  there  is  a  great  deal  of  risk 
to  run  in  buying  trees  from  distant  nurseries  on  account  of 
the  danger  from  injury  by  delay  in  transportation. 

If  one  is  skilled  in  caring  for  trees  in  the  nursery,  small 


54  Landscape  Gardening 

seedlings  or  grafted  trees  may  be  obtained  a  few  years  before 
they  are  needed,  and  when  ready  for  planting  they  will  be 
in  the  most  perfect  condition  for  successful  growth,  as  they 
may  be  dug  one  at  a  time  and  be  planted  with  the  least 
possible  exposure  of  the  roots  to  the  air.  The  work  of  plant- 
ing also  can  then  be  done  at  the  proper  time. 

Much  pleasure  may  be  derived  from  this  work  in  watching 
the  growth  of  the  young  trees  started  from  seed  or  very 
young  grafted  stock,  and  in  training  them  into  proper  forms. 
Good  specimens  of  the  elm,  maple,  and  other  deciduous 
trees,  and  some  of  the  evergreens,  may  often  be  dug  from 
pastures  and  roadsides  with  success  and  if  properly  treated 
will  make  a  satisfactory  growth.  The  oaks,  hickories,  and 
others  having  a  long  tap-root  and  but  a  few  fibres  need  to  be 
dug  around  one  or  two  seasons  before  transplanting,  cutting 
a  trench  2  feet  deep  and  a  foot  wide  and  filling  it  in  with 
good  soil.  This  will  cause  fine  roots  to  grow  and  then  the 
trees  can  be  more  successfully  transplanted. 

Time  for  Planting 

In  light  land  not  too  much  exposed  to  drying  winds  and 
in  climates  where  the  growth  of  the  trees  matures  early 
the  fall  is  the  best  time  to  transplant  most  of  our  decidu- 
ous trees,  but  in  places  much  exposed  to  sweeping  winds  or 
in  heavy  soils  much  injury  is  often  done  to  fall-set  trees  by 
this  exposure. 

Except  under  the  above  favorable  conditions  spring 
is  by  far  the  most  favorable  season  for  transplanting.  This 
should  be  done  as  early  as  possible,  but  not  until  the  soil 
will  work  up  fine  and  mellow. 

If  possible,  the  trees  should  be  on  the  ground  ready  for 
transplanting  at  the  earliest  possible  moment,  and  if  ordered 
from  distant  nurseries  the  order  should  be  sent  in  in  time 
for  prompt  and  early  shipment.  If  the  orders  are  sent 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care  55 

during  the  rush  of  shipment,  there  are  many  chances  for 
delays,  and  more  injury  will  result  from  delay  at  this  time 
than  if  shipped  early  in  the  season.  If  purchased  in  the 
fall  and  carefully  heeled  in  in  rather  light,  well-drained 
soil,  a  considerable  part  of  the  trunk  covered  with  soil,  and 
the  tops  protected  by  pine  boughs  or  some  other  light  airy 
covering,  they  will  keep  in  perfect  condition  and  be  ready 
for  planting  at  the  earliest  possible  moment  in  the  spring. 

Evergreens  may  be  transplanted  with  success  at  any  time 
of  the  year  from  April  to  December,  when  the  ground  will 
work  up  fine  and  mellow,  if  the  weather  is  wet  and  soil  moist; 
but  in  July  and  August  there  is  often  danger  from  drouth, 
and  in  November  the  ground  often  freezes  up  before  the 
soil  has  become  fully  settled  about  the  roots,  therefore  these 
months  are  not  so  desirable  for  transplanting  as  April, 
May  and  June.  For  transplanting  evergreens  a  moist  day, 
just  after  an  abundant  rain,  gives  the  most  perfect  condi- 
tions. Perhaps  the  most  favorable  conditions  for  trans- 
planting evergreens  will  be  found  in  the  months  of  May  and 
June. 

Preparation  of  the  Soil 

Without  a  good  soil  properly  prepared  no  one  should 
expect  to  make  newly  transplanted  trees  grow  satisfactorily. 
If  the  land  is  smooth  and  free  from  rocks,  the  subsoiling 
and  manuring  done  when  fitting  the  land  for  the  lawn  will 
be  sufficient  for  a  good  growth  of  the  trees,  but  if  it  has 
not  been  worked  in  this  way  special  preparation  must  be 
given  the  soil  for  the  roots  of  each  tree.  In  a  naturally 
rich  soil,  if  the  subsoil  is  worked  up  and  partly  replaced  by 
the  surface-soil,  and  good  enriched  soil  be  worked  in  around 
the  roots,  a  vigorous  growth  may  be  expected;  but  if  the 
soil  be  poor,  some  fine  compost  must  be  put  in  around 
them. 


56  Landscape  Gardening 

Unfermented  manures  in  large  quantities,  or  fertilizers 
containing  the  salts  of  potash  or  soda,  should  never  be  placed 
in  contact  with  the  roots,  but,  if  used  at  all,  should  be  spread 
on  and  worked  into  the  surface-soil. 

The  space  to  be  prepared  for  the  roots  of  each  tree  should 
be  considerably  larger  than  the  spread  of  the  roots,  varying 
the  size  according  to  the  soil;  the  poorer  the  soil  the  larger 
should  be  the  space  that  is  broken  up.  Where  large  holes 
are  needed  in  hard  rocky  soil,  dynamite  may  be  used  with 
success  in  making  them. 

Digging  Trees  for  Transplanting 

More  trees  die  from  injury  received  in  digging  than  from 
any  other  cause,  and  the  greatest  care  must  be  exercised  in 
this  work,  as  so  much  of  the  success  in  transplanting  depends 
upon  how  well  the  work  is  done.  Without  a  good  root 
system,  no  matter  how  favorable  the  other  conditions 
are,  there  can  be  but  little  growth. 

In  digging  the  trees  the  first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  remove 
the  surface-soil  down  to  the  roots  and  then  to  cut  a  trench 
around  the  tree  at  a  distance  of  from  i  to  4  feet,  according 
to  its  size.  With  young  trees,  or  those  that  have  been 
transplanted  once  or  more,  cutting  down  with  a  sharp 
spade  in  a  circle  around  the  trunk  will  be  all  that  is  neces- 
sary, when,  with  the  aid  of  a  strong  spade  on  each  side  and  a 
strong  man  to  pull,  the  tree  may  be  loosened  from  the  soil 
with  a  good  supply  of  roots.  If  the  trees  be  large,  the  soil 
must  be  removed  from  the  trench  to  the  depth  of  the  low- 
est roots,  which  will  be  from  one  to  two  feet,  and  the 
roots  be  then  loosened  under  the  ball  and  freed  from  the 
soil,  until  the  ball  can  be  lifted  from  the  hole  or  raised  upon 
planks  to  be  mounted  on  a  stone-boat  or  low  truck  for  moving 
it  to  the  place  of  transplanting. 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care  57 

Sometimes  this  moving  can  be  done  best  in  the  winter, 
the  trench  about  the  tree  being  dug  in  the  fall  and  the 
ball  allowed  to  freeze,  when  it  can  be  more  easily  handled. 
But  if  proper  care  is  exercised  no  difficulty  need  be  experi- 
enced in  moving  large  trees  either  in  the  fall  or  spring. 
Trees  with  trunks  a  foot  or  more  in  diameter  may  be  moved 
if  an  excavation  is  made  under  the  root  system  and  a  large 
ball  of  earth  is  taken  up  with  the  roots.  To  move  such 
trees  requires  great  expense,  and  appliances  of  screws 
and  lifting-apparatus  for  raising  and  moving  many  tons 
of  soil. 

Pruning  Trees  for  Transplanting 

No  matter  how  carefully  a  tree  may  be  dug,  many  of  the 
roots  will  be  injured,  and  with  trees  that  have  been  dug 
several  weeks,  as  they  often  are  when  purchased  from  a 
considerable  distance,  nearly  all  of  the  feeding-roots  are 
destroyed,  and  can  supply  but  a  small  amount  of  sap  to 
replace  the  moisture  that  evaporates  from  the  large  number 
of  branches  and  buds,  so  that  growth  starts  very  slowly  or 
the  trees  fail  entirely.  By  removing  some  of  the  branches 
and  buds  in  proportion  to  the  injury  of  the  roots  a  balance  is 
created.  Considerable  heading  in  of  the  top  should  be  done 
even  if  there  are  but  few  roots  injured  and  only  a  small 
surface  of  branches  and  buds  to  be  supplied  with  sap,  for 
there  will  be  a  much  better  chance  of  the  remaining  buds 
starting,  and  these  will  grow  with  greater  vigor  than  if  no 
pruning  were  done.  (See  Fig.  24.)  After  a  few  strong  active 
leaves  have  been  grown  vigorous  new  cells  will  be  formed 
rapidly,  instead  of  the  weak  sickly  growth  of  the  unpruned 
tree.  Figs.  24  and  26  illustrate  small  trees  properly  pruned 
for  planting,  the  dotted  lines  showing  where  the  cuts  should 
be  made, 


58  Landscape  Gardening 

The  Proper  Height  of  Branches 

Pruning  too  at  the  time  of  transplanting  is  often  neces- 
sary in  order  to  start  the  branches  at  the  desired  height. 
If  low-branching  trees  are  desired,  it  is  often  necessary  to 
head  them  in  severely  from  the  top,  as  in  Fig.  21.  This 
is  especially  the  case  with  trees  taken  from  swamps,  pas- 
tures, and  roadsides.  If  all  the  branches  are  cut  off  to 
a  "bean-pole"  condition,  as  is  often  done  with  very  tall 
and  top-heavy  trees,  much  care  must  be  exercised  that  the 
branches  do  not  all  come  out  nearly  at  one  point,  as  in 
Fig.  25.  A  leader  should  always  be  started,  as  shown  in 
Figs.  20  and  26;  and  the  laterals  must  grow  slowly  and  at 
considerable  distance  apart  to  prevent  the  formation  of 
forks  that  will  split  down  when  the  trees  are  heavily  loaded 
with  snow  or  ice.  The  height  at  which  the  main  branches 
shall  be  started  depends  upon  the  surrounding  conditions. 
For  covering  avenues  or  walks  a  height  that  will  clear  the 
heads  of  pedestrians  when  the  branches  are  weighted  with 
rain  or  snow  is  sufficient;  and  for  a  drive  a  height  that  will 
clear  any  carriage  or  loaded  team  that  may  be  driven  under 
them  is  sufficiently  high,  unless  it  is  desirable  to  get 
views  or  vistas  under  the  branches  through  to  pleasing 
objects. 

With  trees  from  the  nursery  less  pruning  is  needed  than 
if  taken  from  the  woods  or  roadside,  as  their  root  system  is 
generally  more  compact,  owing  to  transplanting  and  culti- 
vation; but  it  will  be  better  to  prune  as  much  as  is  neces- 
sary to  start  the  tree  in  proper  shape,  cutting  out  all  shoots 
not  in  proper  position  to  form  a  satisfactory  head,  and  short- 
ening in  all  of  the  permanent  shoots,  always  preserving  and 
encouraging  a  leader  whether  the  tree  be  naturally  a  round  or 
conical-formed  one;  but  this  applies  more  especially  to  all 
avenue  trees,  which  should  be  kept  growing  most  vigorously 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care  59 

at  the  centre  or  top.     In  Figs.  24  and  26  the  dotted  lines 
illustrate  where  the  cuts  should  be  made. 

Pruning  the  Roots 

All  ends  of  roots  that  are  broken  or  injured  in  digging 
should  be  pared  with  a  sharp  knife  to  facilitate  the  forma- 
tion of  new  roots,  and  when  large  branches  are  cut  off  the 
wounds  should  be  painted  over  with  some  waterproof  cover- 
ing, like  shellac,  grafting-wax,  asphaltum  or  linseed-oil  paint, 
to  prevent  decay. 

Evergreen  trees  are  not  generally  pruned  much  at  trans- 
planting, but  they  will  be  benefited  by  some  shortening  in 
of  the  end  branches,  cutting  out  all  but  one  leader,  and 
removing  any  branches  that  are  not  needed  to  produce  a 
symmetrical  form. 

Planting  the  Tree 

No  matter  how  well  the  soil  may  be  prepared,  how  fresh 
the  trees  may  be  when  received,  or  how  well  they  may  have 
been  prepared  for  planting,  if  the  work  of  planting  is  not 
properly  done,  they  may  fail  to  grow  at  all  or  grow  so  poorly 
as  to  give  little  satisfaction. 

Many  failures  in  tree-planting  result  from  the  slovenly 
and  imperfect  way  in  which  the  work  is  done,  and  the 
nurserymen  are  too  often  blamed  for  the  failures. 

In  planting,  the  roots  of  all  trees  should  have  a  fine 
mellow  bed  of  good  soil,  which  should  be  pressed  firmly 
into  contact  with  every  fibre,  leaving  no  air-spaces  around 
any  of  them,  and  every  one  should  be  spread  out  in  a  natural 
position  and  so  that  no  two  shall  touch  each  other.  Imme- 
diately in  contact  with  these  roots  good  soil  should  be 
very  firmly  pressed  with  the  foot  or  a  tamper,  so  that  new 
roots  will  be  encouraged  to  start  out  at  the  earliest  possible 
moment. 


60  Landscape  Gardening 

The  late  Peter  Henderson,  than  whom  there  have  been 
few,  if  any,  more  successful  growers  of  all  kinds  of  plants  and 
trees,  tells  a  story  in  one  of  his  catalogues  illustrating  the 
benefit  from  the  firm  pressure  of  the  soil  about  the  roots. 
"A  lady  to  whom  he  had  sold  some  rose  bushes  wrote  to  him 
about  the  condition  of  her  plants  after  she  had  spent  much 
time  in  planting  and  caring  for  them,  stating  that  only  one 
out  of  a  dozen  had  lived,  and  that  one  her  husband,  who 
weighed  240  Ibs.,  had  accidentally  stepped  upon  soon  after 
planting."  It  is  also  sometimes  said  that  the  "heaviest 
man  or  the  one  with  the  largest  feet  is  the  best  man  to 
plant  trees." 

Too  much  pressure  may  be  given  to  the  soil  about  the 
roots  in  planting,  but  generally  the  error  is  in  the  opposite 
direction.  To  crowd  the  soil  under  and  around  the  roots  and 
press  it  firmly,  a  pointed  stick  is  often  better  than  the  foot. 

In  planting,  the  tree  is  placed  in  the  hole  at  the  same 
depth  it  grew  in  the  nursery  if  the  soil  is  of  the  same  char- 
acter, a  little  deeper  if  it  is  lighter,  and  perhaps  a  little 
nearer  the  surface  if  heavier,  and  after  carefully  spreading 
out  the  roots  it  is  ready  for  the  covering.  Only  fine,  mod- 
erately rich  soil  should  be  used  for  filling  in  around  the 
roots,  and  this  should  be  carefully  worked  into  placed  with 
the  hands  and  firmly  pressed,  until  all  the  roots  are  covered 
two  or  three  inches  deep,  when  the  work  may  be  completed 
by  treading  down  and  tamping,  taking  care  that  the  bark 
of  the  roots  is  not  injured  in  the  process. 

After  the  fine  soil  to  the  depth  of  three  or  four  inches 
is  firmly  pressed  in  place  that  remaining  is  thrown  loosely 
on  top  and  not  trodden  at  all,  thus  serving  as  a  mulch.  When 
the  soil  is  compacted  on  the  surface,  it  is  in  condition  to 
carry  off  the  moisture  rapidly,  but  if  it  is  light  and  mellow 
its  capillary  condition  is  broken  up  and  the  moisture  cannot 
escape. 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care  61 


Watering  at  Planting 

If  the  soil  is  fairly  moist  and  firmly  pressed  about  the 
roots,  there  is  no  need  of  applying  water  to  the  roots  of 
trees  at  planting;  but  if  in  a  very  dry  state,  water  may  be 
used  in  the  hole  before  setting  the  tree,  filling  it  up  several 
times,  and  after  it  settles  away  put  the  tree  in  place. 
Another  very  good  way  of  watering  in  a  very  dry  time  is, 
after  the  roots  have  been  covered  with  three  or  four  inches 
of  soil,  if  water  is  filled  in  two  or  three  times  and  be  allowed 
to  settle  away,  and  then  the  surface-soil  be  filled  in  light 
and  loose,  better  results  will  be  obtained  with  a  few  pail- 
fuls  of  water  than  if  large  quantities  are  used  on  the  surface 
after  the  tree  is  planted.  Little  benefit  can  result  from  the 
application  of  water  to  the  surface  after  planting  unless  a 
large  quantity  is  used,  so  as  to  saturate  the  soil  down  to  the 
roots,  for  the  diffusion  of  water  through  the  soil  when 
applied  to  the  surface  is  so  slow  that  it  will  take  a  long 
time  to  obtain  this  result;  besides,  this  surface-watering 
compacts  the  soil  so  that  after  it  is  done  the  moisture  escapes 
more  rapidly  than  before.  This  evaporation  after  watering 
may  in  a  measure  be  prevented,  however,  if  the  surface- 
soil  is  stirred  up  with  a  fine  rake  two  or  three  inches  deep, 
the  fine  soil  serving  as  a  mulch. 

Mulching 

Many  newly  planted  trees  start  into  growth  in  the  early 
summer  and  then  from  lack  of  moisture  fail  to  grow.  Where 
water  is  not  available  a  mulch  of  some  coarse  organic  matter, 
like  straw,  meadow  hay,  corn-stalks,  fine  brush,  weeds,  or 
even  planing-machine  shavings  or  spent  tan-bark,  covering 
a  considerably  larger  area  than  the  size  of  the  hole  in  which 
the  tree  was  set,  will  aid  in  keeping  the  moisture  from 


62  Landscape  Gardening 

escaping.  This  should  not  be  put  on  more  than  two  or 
three  inches  in  thickness,  for  if  too  thick  it  causes  the  roots 
to  grow  near  the  surface,  when  they  would  be  more  liable 
to  injury  during  the  winter  or  in  extreme  dry  weather. 

Keeping  up  an  After-growth 

When  the  trees  are  planted,  it  must  not  be  expected  that 
the  end  of  one's  work  has  come,  for  unless  the  soil  is  naturally 
very  rich  or  is  made  so  by  heavy  manuring  at  planting,  trees 
will  not  continue  to  grow  without  some  additional  plant 
food  each  year.  When  planted  on  the  lawn,  if  the  grass  is 
clipped  once  or  twice  each  week  and  liberally  dressed  in  the 
fall  or  spring,  little  or  no  further  fertilizing  for  the  trees 
may  be  needed;  but  even  under  this  condition  a  mound  of 
manure  banked  against  the  trunks  before  the  ground  freezes 
in  the  fall  will  be  of  great  protection  to  the  collar  or  crown 
of  the  roots.  This  method  of  manuring  trees  in  poor  soil 
is  advisable,  a  liberal  supply  being  used,  and  in  the  spring 
spreading  it  around  on  the  lawn  about  the  trees.  Com- 
mercial fertilizers,  like  ground  bone  and  potash,  fish  and 
potash,  or  even  the  specially  prepared  fruit-tree  fertilizers, 
may  be  successfully  used. 

The  Arrangement  of  Trees 

Trees  are  arranged  or  grouped  together  in  ornamental 
gardening  to  accomplish  the  following  results:  for  shelter 
from  cold  winds,  for  screens  to  shut  out  objectionable  views, 
and  in  groups  alone  or  combined  with  shrubs  and  the  lawn 
for  ornamental  effect  or  to  serve  as  a  background  for  or 
setting  to  the  house,  thus  completing  or  finishing  the  home- 
picture. 


Trees— Their  Planting  and  Care  63 


TREES   FOR   SHELTER 

Scarcely  a  location  can  be  selected  where  there  is  not 
some  point  that  needs  protection  or  shelter  from  prevail- 
ing winds  or  from  storms,  and  generally  only  those  trees 
that  are  very  hardy  and  provided  with  an  abundance  of 
thick  tough  foliage  should  be  used.  They  are  more  com- 
monly planted  on  the  north  or  west  exposure,  and  should 
be  set  as  closely  as  possible  and  have  them  grow  to  a  good 
degree  of  perfection.  About  the  average  distance  for 
planting  evergreens:  For  high  screen  or  shelter,  Norway 
spruce  15  ft.  high,  8  ft.  apart;  Siberian  arborvitae  10  ft.  high, 
5  ft.  apart.  Distance  for  planting  deciduous  trees  for  high 
screen  or  shelter:  Honey  locust  10  ft.  high,  4  ft.  apart,  8  ft. 
high,  3  ft.  apart.  If  immediate  shelter  is  needed,  close 
planting  may  be  advisable,  but  the  surplus  trees  should  be 
removed  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  interfere  with  the  perfec- 
tion of  those  desired  for  permanent  growth.  It  is  always 
best  to  plant  those  that  are  the  most  desirable  for  per- 
manent growth  at  the  proper  distance  for  full  develop- 
ment, and  then  arrange  the  more  temporary  kinds  so 
that  they  may  be  finally  cut  out.  In  this  work,  as  in 
all  grouping  of  trees  and  shrubs,  it  is  best  to  obtain  as 
much  contrast  and  variety  of  form  and  color  as  possible, 
and  yet  have  a  pleasant  blending  of  all  the  characteristic 
features. 

Evergreens  are  generally  planted  for  purposes  of  shelter, 
as  they  hold  their  foliage  during  the  winter,  though  a  mix- 
ture of  deciduous  and  evergreen  trees  will  give  the  most 
satisfactory  picture  in  summer.  The  evergreens,  especially 
when  massed,  produce  a  sombre  effect,  which  is  lightened  and 
relieved  by  the  introduction  of  some  deciduous  trees,  like 
the  birches,  golden  willows,  etc.  Fig.  29  shows  a  very  good 
deciduous  tree  wind  break,  but  should  have  branches  lower, 


64  Landscape  Gardening 

and  would  be  more  ornamental  if  planted  as  in  Figs.  30 
and  31. 

The  larger  and  more  stately  trees  should  be  set  at  the 
rear  of  a  corner  group,  or,  as  in  Fig.  31,  in  the  centre  of 
isolated  groups,  the  smaller  or  more  graceful  and  orna- 
mental kinds  being  grouped  about  them,  and  if  possible  so 
that  there  may  be  a  gradual  diminution  in  size  at  all  points 
of  view  from  the  centre  to  outside  of  the  group. 


FIG.  29. — Trees  for  Screen  Set  in  Too  Formal  Manner. 

The  size  of  the  trees  to  be  used  must  vary  with  the  extent 
of  the  grounds  on  which  they  are  planted  and  the  height 
of  the  desired  shelter.  On  very  small  lots  a  single  laige 
tree  with  a  few  smaller  ones  grouped  around  it  will  afford 
much  shelter. 

TREES   FOR    SCREENS 

The  useful  and  ornamental  may  be  combined  with  good 
effect  in  grouping  trees  for  screens,  i.e.,  to  cut  off  objec- 
tionable views  or  to  enhance  the  beauty  of  desirable  ones. 
The  same  rules  should  be  observed  in  their  arrangement  as 
in  planting  for  shelter.  The  effects  to  be  obtained  in  this 
kind  of  grouping  are  many.  Unsightly  objects  viewed 
from  the  house  may  be  covered  or  hidden  from  view,  as  well 
as  objects  on  the  grounds  that  it  is  desired  to  screen  from 
the  house  or  from  public  view,  as  the  clothes-yard,  stable 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care  65 


FIG.  30. — Trees  for  Screen  in  Natural  Group. 


'•-: 


*   V-r      -         - 


FIG.  31. — Large-growing  Trees  Arranged  in  Centre  of  Groups. 


66  Landscape  Gardening 

and  other  outbuildings,  etc.  The  quiet  retreat  where  one 
may  be  away  from  the  public  gaze  is  a  feature  to  be  desired 
in  every  more  or  less  thickly  settled  community,  but  the 
great  mistake  often  made  of  planting  a  close  hedge  or  screen 
around  the  entire  grounds,  shutting  off  all  view  from  both 
inside  and  outside,  should  be  avoided. 
The  ornamental  features  of  our  grounds  should  be  made 


FIG.  32. — Natural  Grouping  of  Large  and  Small  Trees. 

with  the  view  of  adding  as  much  of  beauty  and  comfort  to 
them  as  possible,  and  if  we  succeed  in  creating  anything  of 
beauty  or  comfort  others  are  entitled  to  share  it  with  us  to 
the  extent  at  least  of  looking  upon  its  beauty. 
Fig.  32  also  illustrates  natural  grouping. 

Grouping  for  Ornamentation 

When  neither  shelter  nor  screens  are  needed,  ornamen- 
tal trees  are  planted  as  a  setting  to  the  buildings  or  for 
the  decoration  of  the  grounds,  and  in  this  work  much  knowl- 


Trees— Their  Planting  and  Care  67 

edge  of  the  various  forms,  colorings,  and  distinctively 
characteristic  feature  of  trees  is  needed.  The  more  one 
studies  trees  and  shrubs  and  their  artistic  grouping  the 
greater  will  be  his  success. 

But  in  this  grouping  the  effect  both  of  shelter  or  screens 
and  of  beauty  may  be  obtained  by  careful  study  of  materials 
and  their  skilful  arrangement. 

NATURE   AS   A   GUIDE 

In  nature  we  sometimes  find  most  beautiful  illustrations 
of  the  grouping  of  trees,  on  knolls,  in  the  shady  dell  or 
open  field,  and  much  may  be  learned  by  following  this  most 
versatile  teacher.  In  many  cases,  however,  art  can  improve 
upon  nature.  We  can  improve  upon  most  of  the  effects  we 
find  about  us  by  providing  the  best  possible  conditions  of 
soil  and  surroundings  for  the  development  of  each  specimen. 
We  can  collect  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe  the  most 
beautiful  of  her  treasures,  and  make  each  and  every  specimen 
of  a  group  grow  to  its  greatest  perfection,  which  seldom 
occurs  in  nature's  grouping.  We  can  create  nothing,  but  we 
can  use  all  of  nature's  blessings  so  that  beauty  and  good  may 
be  the  result. 

TOO   CLOSE  PLANTING 

One  of  the  greatest  mistakes  made  in  grouping  ornamen- 
tal trees  is  too  close  planting,  as  has  been  suggested  on 
a  previous  page,  and  shown  in  Fig.  59,  and  unless  imme- 
diate results  are  desired  each  specimen  should  be  given 
space  sufficient  for  its  full  development.  In  this  work  as 
much  variety  is  desirable  as  it  is  possible  to  obtain  and 
at  the  same  time  secure  harmony  of  forms  and  colors. 


68 


Landscape  Gardening 


RULES   FOR    GROUPING 

i.  Groups  of  trees  of  similar  characteristics  should  gen- 
erally be  avoided  unless  the  place  is  of  large  extent.  If 
we  plant  all  conical  trees,  like  the  spruces,  larch,  Lombardy 
poplar,  fastigiate  oak,  etc.,  all  low-growing  spreading  trees, 
all  trees  with  yellow  foliage  or  those  with  purple  foliage,  by 
themselves,  we  do  not  get  as  pleasing  results  as  if  a  variety 


FIG.  33. — Trees  and  Shrubs  Grouped  Along  Walks  and  Drives. 

of  forms,  colors,  and  sizes  are  used  and  are  arranged  in  a 
natural  and  artistic  manner.  In  Fig.  32  we  have  a  very 
pleasing  arrangement  of  large  and  small  trees  and  shrubs,  as 
well  as  a  pleasing  blending  of  forms,  each  placed  so  as  to 
bring  out  the  peculiar  features  and  all  producing  a  pleasant 
picture.  In  Fig.  34  is  illustrated  the  grouping  of  trees  and 
shrubs  along  the  borders  of  a  walk  or  a  curved  roadway,  in 
which  vistas  are  left  open.  The  larger  and  heavier  trees 
are  grouped  in  the  centre  and  the  smaller  ones  around 
them. 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care 


69 


2.  As  in  the  arrangement  for  shelter  or  screens,  so  in 
the  ornamental  groups  the  tallest  trees  and  those  most 
spiry  will  be  more  pleasing  if  grouped  in  the  centre  or  back- 
ground, with  the  lower,  more  rounded  or  graceful  kinds 
placed  in  order  of  size,  keeping  in  mind,  of  course,  variety 
and  contrast,  and  yet  securing  harmony  of  colors  as  much 
as  possible.  Trees  with  very  heavy  or  dark  foliage  should 
not  be  planted  by  the  side  of  those  with  light,  feathery 
or  very  fine  foliage,  but  something  of  an  intermediate  tone 


FIG.  34. — Trees  and  Shrubs  Grouped  Along  Walks  and  Drives. 

should  be  introduced  between  them.  So  a  very  small 
tree  should  not  be  planted  close  up  to  one  of  large  size  if 
its  branches  are  carried  high,  but  if  the  branches  come  to 
the  ground  with  a  broad  slope,  as  in  Fig.  32,  both  a  distant 
and  close  planting  will  be  pleasing. 

3.  The  trees  having  the  greatest  individual  beauty  should 
be  put  in  such  position  that -their  beauty  will  be  enhanced 
by  having  a  good  background  or  a  good  setting.  Thus  the 
appearance  of  a  purple-leaved  beech  will  be  improved  if 
planted  in  front  of  or  in  the  angle  formed  by  silver  maples 


70 


Landscape  Gardening 


and  golden  poplars.  The  foliage  of  trees  like  the  golden 
poplar,  maple,  or  elm  will  be  injured  in  effect  if  planted  in 
contrast  with  trees  of  a  bluish  or  very  glaucous  color,  while 
trees  with  showy  flowers  will  be  made  more  conspicuous  if 


FIG.  35. — Trees  and  Shrubs  Grouped  at  Branching  of  Walk  or  Drive. 

planted  with  a  mass  of  dark-colored  foliage  for  a  back- 
ground. 

4.  Specimen  trees,  i.e.,  those  that  stand  out  on  the  lawn 
conspicuously,  should  be  those  of  characteristic  beauty. 
The  oak  has  the  characteristic  beauty  of  strength;  the  elm 
that  of  graceful,  arching  form;  the  purple  beech,  Nord- 
mann's  fir,  and  the  Colorado  blue  spruce  great  beauty  of 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care  71 

coloring;  the  cut-leaved  weeping  birch  and  Japanese  weep- 
ing cherry  the  beauty  of  graceful,  flowing  outline;  and  each 
and  all  of  the  more  common  ornamental  trees  have  some 
characteristic  beauty  which  it  should  be  the  study  of  the 
landscape  artist  to  bring  out  in  grouping  them  together. 

5.  Groups  should  not  be  planted  so  as  to  present  a  too 
solid  appearance,  and  if  arranged  so  as  to  give  each  speci- 
men its  proper  distance  and  setting  there  will  be  little 
danger  of  this  result.  To  still  further  lighten  up  a  group 


FIG.  36.  FIG.  37. 

FIG.  36-37.— Trees  and  Shrubs  Grouped  at  End  or  Turn  of  Walk. 

that  has  a  tendency  to  too  much  compactness,  small  isolated 
specimens  in  the  lawn  at  a  little  distance  from  the  outside 
tree  may  be  planted,  as  shown  in  Figs.  29  and  32. 

6.  Where  the  surface  of  the  lawn  is  rolling,  instead  of 
arranging  the  trees,  as  in  Fig.  29,  much  better  effect  will  be 
produced  by  dividing  the  group,  as  shown  in  Fig.  30.     In 
this  way  a  much  smaller  number  of  trees  will  give  more  real 
beauty  to  the  grounds  than  if  all  were  planted  in  a  line  or 
a  close  group. 

7.  When  planting  along  walks  or  drives,  an  effort  should 


72 


Landscape  Gardening 


FIG.  38. — Trees  and  Shrubs  Planted  Along  Many  Radiating  Lines  to 
Afford  Vistas  in  Many  Directions. 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care 


73 


FIG.  39. — Trees  and  Shrubs  Planted  Along  Radiating  Lines 
to  Afford  Vistas. 


74  Landscape  Gardening 

be  made  to  group  as  naturally  as  possible  and,  if  the  curve 
of  the  walk  or  drive  is  made  to  extend  around  and  beyond 
what  seems  to  be  the  natural  and  direct  line  of  travel,  to 
so  place  the  trees  or  shrubs  as  to  overcome  the  feeling  that 
a  greater  distance  is  being  travelled  to  go  from  one  place 
to  another  than  is  necessary.  A  very  good  idea  of  this 
grouping  is  shown  in  Figs.  34  and  35. 

8.  Vistas  or  openings  should  be  provided  wherever  inter- 
esting objects  or  views  are  presented,  and  the  arrangement 
of  trees  and  shrubs  be  in  radiating  lines,  as  shown  in  Figs. 
34  and  35.  In  this  manner  vistas  or  pleasing  views  may 


FIG.  40. — Screen  at  Different  Angles. 

be  arranged  from  the  prominent  points  of  the  house,  as 
from  the  verandas,  bay  windows,  or  piazzas,  from  various 
points  on  the  lawn,  and  the  planting  may  be  so  made  that 
the  pleasing  features  of  the  grounds  may  be  enjoyed  by 
those  outside.  Considerable  skill  will  be  required  sometimes 
to  afford  a  screen  at  certain  points  from  an  intrusive  public, 
to  open  views  to  others,  and  at  the  same  time  to  secure 
the  best  of  the  outside  beauty  to  the  occupants  of  the  house. 
Very  pretty  views  or  vistas  are  shown  in  Fig.  14,  p.  35  and 
Fig.  41,  p.  75,  and  Fig.  42,  p.  76. 

9.  If  the  groups  are  planted  near  the  house,  trees  or 
shrubs  of  small  size  will  often  cut  off  objectionable  views 
which  would  require  much  larger  specimens  if  planted  at 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care 


75 


i 


76 


Landscape  Gardening 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care 


77 


greater  distance,  as  shown  in  Fig.  40.  In  case  of  large  trees 
near  the  dwelling  vistas  may  be  obtained  from  under  the 
branches,  and  a  tree  well  headed  up  gives  an  abundance  of 
shade  and  at  the  same  time  a  good  circulation  of  air,  which 
are  very  desirable  during  the  hot  summer  months. 

10.  The  beauty  and  comfort  obtained  in  all  this  work 
of  grouping  depend  very  largely  upon  how  carefully  every 
point  suggested  above  is  studied  and  viewed  from  all  sides, 
and  how  fully  the  planter  understands  the  height  which  each 
of  the  species  planted  will  attain  under  different  conditions 


FIG.  43. — Groups  of  Trees  and  Shrubs  at  Entrance  of  Grounds. 

of  soil,  exposure,  etc. ;  for  while  the  trees  are  young  the  vis- 
tas and  covering  may  be  just  right,  it  may  take  but  a  few 
feet  of  growth  at  one  side  or  above  the  group  often  to  hide 
from  view  some  of  the  most  beautiful  features  of  the 
place. 

11.  Groups  of  trees  are  generally  in  good  taste  planted 
on  both  sides  of  a  walk  or  drive  at  the  entrance  from  the 
street,  Fig.  43.     Arranged  in  this  way  they  serve  to  mark 
the  exit  or  entrance  in  a  definite  way  when  seen  from  a  dis- 
tance or  during  the  night-time. 

12.  Corners  or  abrupt  angles  in  the  boundary-line  may 
be  filled  up  with  trees  and  shrubs  so  as  to  present  a  most 


78 


Landscape  Gardening 


pleasing  effect,  not  secured  if  these  features  are  left  with- 
out decorations. 

13.  In  nature  we  often  find  most  beautiful  groups  of  trees 
on  the  tops  of  rounded  surfaces  which  we  may  well  copy  in 
this  particular  where  such  features  of  surface  are  found. 
This  point  is  shown  in  Fig.  44,  and  if,  as  in  this  illustra- 
tion, some  picturesque  or  strikingly  beautiful  tree  is  planted 
in  the  group  it  is  sure  to  attract  attention. 


FIG.  44. — Trees  and  Shrubs  Grouped  at  Crown  of  Rounded 
Surfaces. 

14.  To  cover  up  or  to  break  the  monotony  of  a  straight 
line  of  trees,  a  hedge,  or  a  bank  wall,  trees  and  shrubs  may 
be  grouped  in  a  more  or  less  irregular  yet  artistic  manner 
some  distance  away  with  very  pleasing  effect. 

15.  In  the  grouping  of  trees  and  shrubs  there  should  be 
an  effort  made  to  obtain  vistas  of  as  great  extent  as  possible 
in  one  or  more  places.     By  such  an  arrangement  even  small 
places  will  appear  of  much  larger  extent  than  if  only  short 
vistas  within  the  grounds  are  provided,  and  more  pleasing 


Trees— Their  Planting  and  Care  79 

to  the  eye  from  the  fact  that  a  greater  variety  of  objects 
may  be  seen  at  once.  Also  to  cover  porte-cochere  or  covered 
driveway,  as  in  the  frontispiece. 

1 6.  Ornamental  grounds  will  be  pleasing   in  proportion 
to  the  number  of  beautiful  pictures  presented.     If  all  parts 
are  seen  at  one  time,  interest  is  soon  satisfied.     It  is  possi- 
ble, however,  to  provide  very  many  pleasing  features  on 
places  even  of  small  extent  if  the  foregoing  rules  are  care- 
fully studied. 

17.  As  stated  in  a  previous  chapter  the  lawn  is  the  most 
important  part  of  the  home  picture  and  this  feature  should 
not  be  obscured  by  too  close  or  too  extensive  planting  of 
trees  and  shrubs.     Two  or  three  trees  or  shrubs  planted 
near  the  border  of  the  lot,  a  group  of  low  shrubs  or  hardy 
plants  close  up  to  the  house,  Fig.  45,  or  stable,  with  a  speci- 
men small  tree  with  showy  flowers  or  foliage  will  often  give 
more  of  real  beauty  than  if  dozens  were  planted. 

Trees  and  shrubs  should  never  be  planted  at  regular 
distance  apart,  but  in  groups,  the  lawn  in  all  cases  pre- 
dominating, 

Grouping  about  Buildings — Banks  of  Shrubbery 

1 8.  Trees  and  shrubs,  as  well  as  some  of  the  taller  hardy 
herbaceous  plants,  may  be  used  as  a  setting  for  the  house 
or  outbuildings,  banked  as  shown  in  Fig.  45.    Trees  may  be 
planted  on  either  side  of  the  front,  in  some  cases,  or  only  on 
one  side  with  pleasing  effect,  if  the  buildings  are  small  so 
as  to  be  shaded  more  or  less  by  the  roof.     If  placed  too  close 
and  the  roof  or  sides  are  kept  moist  continually  they  cause 
decay  of  the  clapboards  or  shingles.     When  the  building 
faces  the  north,  the  shade  should  be  located  on  the  south  or 
rear  of  the  building. 

19.  The  abruptness  of  outline  between  lawn  and  founda- 
tion may  be  very  pleasantly  broken  by  grouping  small 


80 


Landscape  Gardening 


I 

to 

"3- 

d 

£ 


Trees — Their  Planting  and  Care  81 

evergreens,  flowering  shrubs  or  even  hardy  herbaceous  pe- 
rennials in  masses  close  up  to  the  underpinning,  planting  the 
taller  ones  in  the  rear  and  grading  down  to  the  very  low 
ones  in  front  next  the  lawn  as  in  the  above  figure.  If 
planted  directly  under  the  eaves  some  sort  of  a  snowguard 
must  be  provided  in  sections  where  the  fall  is  heavy,  other- 
wise many  of  the  plants  will  be  broken  down  in  winter. 


CHAPTER   V 
SHRUBS,   HEDGES,   AND   HARDY   CLIMBERS 

SHRUBS  may  serve  under  some  conditions,  e.g.,  on  small 
places,  the  purpose  of  screens  when  planted  near  the  build- 
ings, or  near  the  street  when  the  land  slopes  upward  toward 
the  house,  but  in  very  few  places  can  they  be  used  for 
shelter.  They  are  especially  adapted  to  add  finishing 
touches  and  cause  a  blending  between  the  trees  and  lawn 
or  for  massing  in  ornamental  groups  on  small  grounds. 

They  present  a  much  greater  variety  in  form,  size,  and 
color  than  the  trees.  Among  them  we  have  the  most 
beautiful  colors  and  variegations  of  foliage,  the  most  beau- 
tiful grace  of  outline,  and  the  greatest  variety  of  forms  and 
colors  of  blossoms,  coming  on  more  or  less  from  the  earliest 
spring  to  late  summer  or  early  autumn,  which  afford  material 
for  the  most  beautiful  effects.  Being  small  they  will  give 
a  much  greater  number  of  forms  and  colors  on  places  of 
limited  size  than  can  be  obtained  from  the  use  of  trees. 
For  description  of  shrubs  see  Chapter  XII. 

Preparation  of  Land,  Planting,  Grouping,  etc. 

The  preparation  of  the  land,  the  pruning  preparatory 
to  and  the  planting  of  shrubs,  are  so  similar  to  those  required 
for  trees  that  directions  need  not  be  repeated  here.  The 
same  rules  also  as  for  trees  should  be  followed  in  regard 
to  individuals  or  groups  as  to  distance,  blending  of  colors 
and  forms,  etc. 

82 


Shrubs,  Hedges,  and  Hardy  Climbers        83 


TWO    METHODS    OF    GROUPING 

Two  methods  of  grouping  are  commonly  practised,  i.e., 
ist,  the  grouping  of  many  flowering  varieties  in  one  mass 
whereby  some  kinds  may  be  in  bloom  at  all  times  from 
April  to  November,  and  2d,  the  arrangement  of  large  masses 
of  one  species  or  variety  together  so  as  to  produce  very 
marked  and  distant  effect.  The  former  will  generally  give 
the  most  satisfaction  on  small  grounds,  but  on  places  of 
considerable  extent  the  most  pleasing  results  will  be  obtained 
by  planting  many  specimens  of  one  kind  in  a  group.  For 
example,  large  groups  of  Forsythias,  Spiraea  Van  Houttei, 
Hydrangea  paniculata,  Japanese  snowball,  etc.,  arranged  in 
large  masses  by  themselves,  present  beautiful  views  and 
strong  contrasts  that  cannot  be  obtained  in  any  other  way. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  grounds,  as  in  Fig.  43,  beside  the 
walk  or  drive,  or  at  their  forkings,  as  in  Fig.  35,  groups  of 
shrubs  fix  our  attention  and  we  pass  on  or  change  from 
one  walk  to  another  less  conscious  of  the  change  of  direc- 
tion than  if  only  the  plain  walk  was  before  us. 

Another  use  of  shrubs  may  be  found  in  their  serving  to 
give  a  reason  for  abrupt  changes  of  direction  or  the  termina- 
tion of  a  walk,  as  shown  in  Figs.  36  and  37,  and  also  to  make 
a  curved  walk  on  small  grounds  appear  the  most  natural 
and  the  shortest  distance  between  two  points,  as  in  Fig.  34. 

Change  of  curves  in  walks  are  made  to  appear  more 
natural  if  the  borders  are  more  or  less  decorated  with  shrubs 
at  points  where  there  would  be  a  temptation  to  cut  across 
to  shorten  the  distance,  as  in  Fig.  34.  They  also  serve  to 
cover  up  and  break  the  monotony  of  the  walk  by  obscuring 
changes  until  it  becomes  necessary  for  one  to  make  the  turn 
to  reach  one  point  or  another.  A  combined  group  of  trees 
and  shrubs  illustrating  the  shrubs  planted  a  little  way 
from  the  trees  is  shown  in  Fig.  31. 


84  Landscape  Gardening 


PRUNING    SHRUBS 

In  pruning  shrubs  they  should  be  allowed  to  take  their 
most  natural  and  perfect  form;  and,  when  branches  become 
old  and  weak,  they  should  be  cut  away  from  the  inside, 
thus  thinning  out  and  allowing  new  vigorous  shoots  to  grow 
to  take  their  place,  as  at  a,  Fig.  51. 

The  practice  of  shearing  shrubs  on  the  outside  only, 
without  thinning  out  any  of  the  inside  branches,  cannot  be 
too  severely  condemned,  for  it  not  only  gives  them  an  un- 
natural form  in  which  there  is  little  or  no  beauty,  but  it 
causes  an  increase  in  the  number  of  small  and  imperfect 
shoots  at  the  end  of  every  branch  cut,  thus  shutting  out  the 
sunlight  and  resulting  in  a  very  imperfect  growth,  that 
produce  very  few,  if  any,  flowers. 

The  best  blooms  of  some  kinds  of  shrubs  are  borne  on 
wood  of  two  or  more  years'  growth,  and  the  annual  winter 
or  spring  pruning  as  often  practised  destroys  much  of  this 
growth  and  forces  the  shrub  to  make  wood  at  the  expense 
of  blossoms.  In  the  case  of  the  Hydrangea  and  Hibiscus, 
however,  which  bloom  late  in  the  season  and  from  the  new 
shoots,  annual  spring  pruning  of  the  old  wood  will  result  in 
larger  and  better  flowers.  Early-blooming  shrubs  like  the 
spirea,  weigela,  forsythia,  lilacs,  exochordia,  etc.,  may 
be  trimmed  in  early  summer  just  after  blooming  with  the 
best  results;  while  the  hydrangea,  althea,  and  clethra,  etc., 
should  be  pruned  in  late  fall,  winter,  or  early  spring.  If  a 
long  time  unpruned,  whether  in  groups  or  planted  singly, 
most  shrubs  become  irregular  in  form  and  lose  their  beauty, 
but  by  careful  pruning  and  proper  arrangement,  beds  or 
groups  of  shrubs  may  be  made  to  keep  as  good  form  and 
appearance  for  many  years  as  if  newly  planted.  The  larger- 
growing  shrubs  should  be  planted  in  the  centre  or  front  and 
the  smaller  ones  on  the  border  of  the  groups,  each  kind  thus 


Shrubs,  Hedges,  and  Hardy  Climbers        85 

showing  its  natural  size  and  beauty  if  given  space  for  full 
development. 

Hedges* 

The  arrangement  of  trees  or  shrubs  in  the  close  form 
of  the  hedge  is  under  some  conditions  desirable  and  can 
often  be  done  with  pleasing  effect,  though  generally  only 
the  very  low  hedge — one  to  three  feet  high — can  be  con- 
sidered decidedly  ornamental. 

For  the  complete  seclusion  of  the  nursery  and  play- 
ground, the  clothes-drying  yard,  etc.,  or  where  the  space 
is  very  limited,  the  large  hedge  is  sometimes  allowable, 
though  difficult  and  expensive  to  keep  in  perfect  shape  after 
eight  or  ten  years  old. 

PREPARATION   OF   LAND 

To  make  a  satisfactory  hedge,  the  ground  is  to  be  as 
well  prepared  as  for  the  growth  of  trees  or  shrubs  under 
any  other  conditions,  and  as  the  plants  are  set  out  more 
thickly  than  where  grouped  for  ornamentation,  it  should 
be  made  richer  by  an  additional  supply  of  suitable  plant- 
food.  If  trees  and  other  shrubs  are  growing  on  the  same 
grounds  annual  dressings  of  plant  food  like  fine  stable  ma- 
nure, or  lawn  fertilizers  should  be  made  to  keep  them  all  in 
a  vigorous  growing  condition. 

AVOID   CLOSE   PLANTING 

One  of  the  greatest  mistakes  made  in  planting  hedges  is 
in  the  distance  at  which  the  trees  or  shrubs  are  planted. 
When  set  one  foot  apart  or  less,  as  is  sometimes  practised, 
if  the  kinds  of  plants  used  naturally  grow  to  large  trees,  as 
with  the  hemlock,  spruce,  arbor-vitae,  honey-locust,  etc., 
*  See  description  of  hedge-plants,  page  216. 


86  Landscape  Gardening 

some  of  the  plants  will  grow  more  rapidly  than  the  others, 
some  will  die  out,  and  all  will  be  seriously  injured  by  the 
attempt  to  grow  them  in  so  contracted  a  space.  The  dis- 
tance best  for  planting  must  vary  with  the  variety,  but  they 
should  have  room  enough  to  enable  them  to  make  a  suffi- 
cient growth  to  keep  them  in  a  healthy  condition.  Norway 
spruces,  hemlocks,  large  forms  of  the  arbor-vitaes,  honey- 
locusts,  etc.,  for  a  hedge  six  to  eight  feet  high,  should  be 
planted  five  feet  apart  at  least,  and  be  forced  to  spread  out 
and  grow  laterally  by  cutting  in  at  the  top  until  strong 
main  branches  are  formed  near  the  ground.  If  a  low  hedge 
or  immediate  effect  of  a  high  hedge  is  desired,  the  plants 
may  be  set  closely,  and  when  they  crowd  be  transplanted 
again  with  a  little  greater  distance  between  them,  or  every 
other  one  be  taken  out.  In  this  way,  if  plants  are  set  over 
only  one-half  of  the  line  desired  at  first,  as  they  crowd  the 
line  can  be  extended  at  less  expense  and  with  better  results 
than  if  the  whole  distance  were  planted  at  once  with  trees 
of  larger  size. 

REQUIREMENTS  OF  A  PERFECT  HEDGE 

The  first  requirement  of  a  perfect  hedge  either  for  beauty 
or  for  a  perfect  screen  is  numerous  main  branches  close  to 
the  ground,  and  at  transplanting,  unless  the  plants  have 
been  specially  prepared  in  the  nursery,  they  should  be  cut 
back  severely  to  encourage  this  condition  of  growth.  It  is 
not  often  possible  to  obtain  hemlocks  and  spruces  in  proper 
condition  for  a  perfect  hedge,  they  not  having  been  cut 
back  while  small,  and  they  cannot  be  so  severely  pruned  as 
can  the  deciduous  trees;  but  the  Japanese  quince,  buck- 
thorn, privet,  etc.,  can  and  should  be  cut  down  to  within 
six  inches  of  the  ground  at  planting,  even  if  of  consider- 
able size,  and  be  kept  low  until  sufficient  strong  lateral 
branches  are  developed  to  insure  a  close  and  healthy  growth 


Shrubs,  Hedges,  and  Hardy  Climbers        87 

near  to  the  ground.  This  may  seem  like  severe  treatment, 
but,  as  all  trees  or  shrubs  when  planted  closely  tend  to  grow 
only  at  the  top,  in  no  other  way  can  a  perfect  hedge  be 
made  that  will  grow  a  long  time  without  becoming  broken 
and  irregular  from  dying  of  some  of  the  branches  or  even  the 
whole  plants.  After  the  necessary  lateral  growth  has  been 
obtained  the  top  should  be  cut  a  little  higher  each  year  until 
the  desired  height  has  been  reached.  The  point  at  which 
to  cut  and  the  results  of  this  pruning  are  illustrated  in  Figs.  46 
and  47,  the  dotted  line  a  showing  the  point  of  first  pruning. 


FIG.  46.  FIG.  47. 

FIG.  46. — Illustrates  Cutting  Back  of  a  Hedge. 
FIG.  47. — Illustrates  Results  of  Cutting  a  Hedge. 

The  effect  of  this  pruning  is  shown  in  the  three  trees  at  the 
right,  the  line  a'  showing  where  the  second  pruning  should 
be  made. 

FORM   OF   HEDGES 

Of  the  many  forms  to  which  hedges  are  pruned,  a  satis- 
factory and  permanent  growth  will  be  obtained  only  by  the 
triangular  or  conical  shape,  Figs.  48  and  49.  When  the 
sides  are  pruned  perpendicularly,  as  in  Fig.  50,  there  can 
be  but  little  growth  except  at  the  top,  as  at  a;  while  in  the 
conical  or  triangular  form  the  tendency  will  be  to  grow 
upward  from  all  points  along  the  sides,  as  in  the  above 
figures,  the  sides  being  thus  kept  well  covered  with  foliage 
and  new  growth. 


Landscape  Gardening 


PRUNING   HEDGES 

As  in  pruning  specimen  shrubs,  continual  shearing  at 
the  ends  will  cause  a  more  or  less  close,  defective,  and 
unhealthy  growth,  and  here  and  there  over  the  hedge  weak 
branches  should  be  removed  at  considerable  distance  toward 


FIG.  48. 


FIG.  47. 

FIGS.  48,  49. — Correct  Form  of  Hsdgs; 
FIG.  50. — Incorrect  Form  of  Hedge. 


FIG.  50. 


FIG.  51. — Where  Cut  should  be  Mads  in  Pruning. 


the  inside,  which,  as  shown  in  Fig.  51,  will  result  in  new 
shoots  from  near  the  centre  of  growth  and  thus  the  vigor  of 
the  plant  will  be  renewed.  A  hedge  pruned  in  this  way 
may  not  present  quite  so  solid  an  outline,  but  it  has  a  more 
graceful  appearance,  and  will  keep  in  a  healthy  condition 
much  longer  than  when  pruned  only  at  the  ends  of  the 
branches. 

Fig.  156  shows  an  unpruned  hedge  of  natural  growth, 
while  Fig.  155  shows  a  closely  pruned  hedge. 


Shrubs,  Hedges,  and  Hardy  Climbers        89 


TIME    FOR    PRUNING   HEDGES 

If  it  is  desired  to  check  the  growth,  as  when  the  hedge 
has  reached  the  desired  height,  the  pruning  should  be  done 
in  June  or  July;  but  if  more  growth  is  desired,  i.e.,  while 
the  hedge  is  in  the  formative  stage  and  to  produce  a  lateral 
growth,  the  spring,  just  before  growth  begins,  is  the  best 
time  for  pruning. 

IMPLEMENTS    FOR   PRUNING 

For  the  preliminary  pruning  or  cutting  out  of  branches  from 
the  inside  the  long-handled  shears,  the  common  hand  prun- 
ing-shears  and  a  large  pruning-knife  are  all  that  are  needed, 
but  for  giving  permanent  finished  outline  the  long-bla-ded 
hedge-shears  are  indispensable.  To  obtain  a  true  outline, 
strong  twine  stretched  very  taut  and  held  in  place  by  stakes 
is  the  simplest  and  most  satisfactory  method.  If  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground  on  which  the  hedge  is  grown  is  curved, 
the  top  line  of  the  hedge  should  generally  take  the  same 
curve,  thus  making  it  the  same  height  throughout  its  length. 

A    MIXED   HEDGE 

Hedges  of  flowering  shrubs,  where  the  flowers  are  the 
most  desirable  feature,  should  be  pruned  as  directed  for 
other  flowering  shrubs,  but  the  close  solid  hedge  cannot  be 
obtained  by  this  method  of  pruning. 

ADAPTABILITY    OF    SOIL   AND   LOCALITY 

As  with  trees  and  shrubs  under  all  other  conditions,  the 
different  kinds  used  for  hedges  will  only  succeed  under 
proper  conditions  of  soil  and  exposure.  Thus  the  hemlock 
will  succeed  only  when  planted  in  a  moist,  cool  soil,  in  a 
cool  yet  somewhat  sheltered  location.  The  arbor-vitses  and 


90  Landscape  Gardening 

all  other  evergreens  are  also  often  seriously  injured  if  planted 
where  exposed  to  extremely  hot  sun,  heavy  winds,  or  where 
passers-by  will  come  in  contact  with  them  when  frozen. 
The  pines  and  spruces  will  grow  well  in  light  land. 

Most  of  the  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  used  for  hedges 
succeed  better  in  exposed  places  than  the  evergreens  and 
under  more  varied  conditions,  but  each  must  have  a  suit- 
able soil  to  grow  to  the  greatest  perfection.  Almost  any 
soil  may  be  so  changed  at  little  expense  as  to  be  adapted  to 
the  needs  of  most  kinds  of  shrubs  and  hedge-plants.  If  the 
soil  is  too  light,  liberal  dressings  of  stable  manure  or  other 
organic  matter  will  enable  it  to  retain  moisture  sufficient  for 
a  good  growth.  If  very  heavy,  sand  or  gravel  worked  into 
it  will  make  it  more  light  and  porous.  If  very  wet,  thorough 
drainage  will  remedy  this  defect. 

The  annual  dressing  of  manure  or  fertilizer  recommended 
for  trees  and  shrubs  should  be  put  about  the  trunk  of  each 
plant  before  the  ground  freezes,  and  all  leaves  and  rubbish 
that  will  attract  mice  or  other  vermin  be  removed  before 
the  ground  is  covered  with  snow.  No  weeds  or  seedling 
trees  or  shrubs  should  be  allowed  to  get  a  foothold  about 
the  hedge,  and  in  very  much  exposed  places  a  protection  of 
pine  boughs  set  up  about  them  during  the  winter  until  the 
plants  have  become  fully  established  will  be  found  very 
beneficial. 

Hardy  Climbing  Shrubs  * 

The  part  that  hardy  climbers  play  in  the  landscape  or 
ornamental  art  is  often  very  important.  As  a  summer 
covering  for  pergolas,  verandas  and  arbors  nothing  possesses 
so  much  natural  beauty.  They  supply  the  beautiful  green 
so  pleasant  to  the  eye,  and  by  constant  evaporation  of  moist- 
ure from  their  leaves  produce  a  cool  shade  that  no  artificial 

*See  description  of  hardy  climbing  shrubs  on  pages  256-266. 


Shrubs,  Hedges,  and  Hardy  Climbers        91 


92  Landscape  Gardening 

material  can  supply.  Some  of  them  possess  most  beautifully 
cut  or  shaded  foliage^  while  others  produce  most  beautiful 
flowers,  and  when  once  planted  they  grow  on  for  many  years 
with  but  little  care.  Some  of  them,  like  the  wistaria, 
aristolochia,  actinidia,  bitter-sweet,  etc.,  will  twine  about 
large  pillars  or  other  supports,  some  will  support  themselves 
on  brick  or  stone  walls  by  their  sucker-like  tendrils,  while 
many,  like  the  clematis,  etc.,  require  the  support  of  the 
trellis,  the  single  wire,  or  the  wire  netting. 

If  grown  too  abundantly  or  trained  too  closely  to  the 
building,  vines  often  render  the  dwelling  damp  and  unhealth- 
ful  and  cause  rapid  decay  of  the  woodwork. 

As  to  cultivation,  they  require  the  same  care  and  fertility 
of  soil  as  recommended  for  upright  shrubs.  Fig.  52  shows 
a  vine-covered  cottage  in  June. 

PRUNING   CLIMBERS 

In  addition  to  the  pruning  required  to  keep  climbing 
vines  within  proper  limits,  which  can  be  done  largely  by 
pinching  and  light  clipping  during  the  summer,  they  require 
in  some  cases  the  cutting  back  of  the  old  wood  of  the  laterals 
in  order  to  produce  fresh  clean  shoots  and  foliage,  and  in 
other  cases  the  heading  in  of  the  young  wood  to  encourage 
development  of  the  blossom-buds.  In  a  few  cases  as  with 
roses  winter  protection  should  be  provided  by  tying  straw 
around  them  or  covering  them  with  loosely  tied  matting. 
Any  covering  of  this  kind,  however,  unless  very  neatly 
done,  detracts  from  the  appearance  of  a  veranda  or  arbor 
and  should  be  avoided  if  possible. 

Hardy  Herbaceous  Plants  * 

No  class  of  plants  affords  more  beauty  and  pleasure  for  so 
little  expenditure  of  labor  and  money  as  the  hardy  her- 
*  See  list  of  hardy  herbaceous  plants  on  page  273. 


Shrubs,  Hedges,  and  Hardy  Climbers        93 

baceous  plants.  They  are  especially  adapted  to  small 
places,  and  with  a  background  of  low  trees  or  shrubs  some 
very  beautiful  pictures  can  be  formed.  As  with  shrubs 
and  trees,  some  kinds  require  special  conditions  of  soil  and 
exposure  to  be  grown  successfully,  while  others  succeed  on  a 
great  variety  of  soils.  Some  of  them  will  grow  a  long  time 
in  one  place  without  renewal  of  soil,  but  most  of  them  need 
dividing  and  transplanting  every  three  or  four  years  to  insure 
the  most  vigorous  growth  and  the  best  flowers. 

They  may  be  arranged  in  groups  of  the  same  kind,  or  in 
mixed  groups,  as  may  be  desired,  with  good  effect;  but  on 
large  places  generous  groups  of  one  kind  like  paeonias, 
phloxes,  etc.,  with  striking  characteristics  will  be  the  most 
satisfactory,  while  on  small  places  the  mixed  arrangement 
may,  perhaps,  give  the  most  pleasure. 

Tender  Foliage  or  Flowering  Plants  * 

BEDDING   PLANTS 

For  many  years  past  it  has  been  the  fashion  to  grow, 
more  or  less  largely,  brilliantly  colored  foliage  or  flowering 
plants  in  large  masses;  and  while  the  pleasure  obtained  by 
the  growth  and  study  of  these  plants  is  often  very  great, 
the  effect  produced  is  sometimes  not  quite  in  keeping  with 
the  quiet  beauty  of  the  refined  home.  It  often  partakes 
more  of  the  nature  of  "loud  dress,"  much  avoided  by  all 
people  of  good  taste.  Gaudy  pattern-beds  covering  large 
areas  standing  out  conspicuously  on  the  lawn  with  nothing 
to  cause  a  blending  of  color  cannot  be  considered  in  good 
taste,  but  if  placed  so  that  more  moderate  colors  grouped 
near  may  tone  down  their  intensity  they  may  not  be  objec- 
tionable. 

Small  groups  of  the  more  brilliantly  colored  foliage-plants 
*  See  list  of  bedding-plants  on  page  295. 


94  Landscape  Gardening 

or  of  those  with  beautiful  flowers  placed  in  retired  nooks 
with  a  good  background,  along  the  borders  of  walks,  or 
close  up  to  the  veranda  with  a  good  extent  of  lawn  often 
add  to  a  scene  brightness  that  can  be  produced  in  no  other 
way.  These  bedding-plants,  well  started  under  glass,  pro- 
duce effect  early  and  during  the  entire  season  which  cannot 
be  obtained  from  perennial  plants  or  shrubs.  They  often 
show  color  or  begin  to  bloom  soon  after  setting  out  and  con- 
tinue until  cut  off  by  frost. 

They  are  comparatively  inexpensive  if  purchased  from 
the  commercial  grower,  or  many  of  them  are  easily  and 
cheaply  grown  with  only  the  facilities  of  a  small  hotbed  or 
a  few  sunny  windows. 

Intricate  figures  and  designs  often  seen  in  public  grounds 
and  large  estates  should  not  be  attempted  on  small  places, 
for,  besides  being  unsuited  to  such  limited  areas,  they  will 
detract  from  other  features  whatever  of  beauty  they  may 
in  themselves  possess. 


CHAPTER  VI 
WALKS  AND   DRIVES 

GOOD,  dry,  and  smooth  walks  and  drives  are  a  necessity 
for  comfortable  getting  about  on  either  the  home  or  public 
grounds,  but  they  can  in  themselves  add  nothing  to  the 
naturalness  or  beauty  of  any  place.  One  of  the  first  points 
for  consideration,  after  the  house  and  outbuildings  have 
been  located  and  built,  is  how  to  get  to  and  from  them,  or, 
in  other  words,  where  shall  the  necessary  walks  and  drives 
be  located. 

If  we  could  always  walk  or  drive  on  the  velvety  grass  of 
a  good  lawn  without  getting  our  feet  wet  or  killing  the 
grass,  gravelled  or  concrete  walks  or  drives  would  not  be  a 
necessity,  we  should  save  much  expense,  and  the  beauty  of 
our  grounds  would  be  greatly  increased;  note  the  lawn  in 
frontispiece;  but  we  can  do  neither  of  these;  some  walks  and 
drives  are,  therefore,  from  this  point  of  view,  a  necessity. 
We  may  compromise  this  matter  by  using  flagstones  which 
will  make  a  very  good  walk  that  can  be  kept  in  good  condi- 
tion with  little  expense,  Fig.  53. 

A  properly  located  walk  or  drive,  however,  may  be  made 
an  attractive  feature,  as  it  invites  us  by  its  smoothness  and 
dryness  to  walk  or  drive  over  it  to  the  house,  or  from  the 
house  to  our  daily  toil  or  pleasure.  It  adds  an  air  of 
comfort  and  hospitality  to  the  home  that  without  it  would 
seem  cold  and  inhospitable. 

Walks  and  drives  in  themselves  add  no  beauty  to  grounds 
devoted  to  the  growth  of  choice  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants, 

95 


96 


Landscape  Gardening 


and,  as  they  are  unnatural  features  of  the  landscape  art, 
only  such  should  be  made  as  are  actually  required  by  those 


FIG.  53. — Flag-stones  in  place  of  Gravel  or  Concrete  Walk. 


who  frequent  the  grounds.  Besides,  a  good  walk  or  drive 
is  expensive  to  construct,  and  requires  constant  attention 
as  to  border  and  surface  to  keep  in  good  condition. 


Walks  and  Drives  97 

Location  of  Walks  and  Drives 

The  location  of  walks  and  drives  should  be  where  they 
will  be  most  convenient,  and  as  nearly  as  possible  give  the 
shortest  distance  between  the  points  to  be  traversed,  and 
yet,  unless  the  distance  is  very  short,  the  straight  line 
should  be  avoided. 

Graceful  curves,  taking  one  from  place  to  place  about 
one's  ground,  give  the  idea  of  quiet  and  leisure  that  is 
conducive  to  the  study  of  beautiful  objects  about  us;  and 
by  a  little  variety  of  material  and  skill  in  the  arrangement 
of  it  in  ornamenting  the  borders  of  walks,  thus  obliging  us 
to  move  out  of  the  straight  line  to  reach  a  certain  point, 
we  may  not  be  conscious  of  the  fact  that  the  curved  walk 
is  any  longer  than  a  straight  one  would  be,  and  much  beauty 
is  gained.  This  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  34;  were  it  not  for  the 
groups  of  shrubbery  along  the  border  there  would  be  a  feel- 
ing of  restraint  at  going  over  so  much  distance  to  reach  a 
point  directly  ahead,  but  we  are  attracted  in  part  by 
their  beauty  to  pass  among  them,  and,  being  between  us 
and  the  objective  point,  the  feeling  of  restraint  disappears. 

The  Entrance  to  Drive  or  Walk 

There  should  always  be  a  walk  leading  more  or  less 
directly  to  the  main  entrance  of  the  house;  and  where  a 
drive  must  also  be  provided  to  the  front  door  and  to  reach 
the  stable,  if  space  is  limited,  the  two  may  be  combined 
for  more  or  less  of  the  distance  by  making  that  part  along 
the  side  of  the  drive  intended  for  the  footpath  (see  Fig.  54) 
with  a  little  finer  gravel  or  by  paving  or  concreting  it. 

Where  the  grounds  are  small  and  a  "turn  around"  is 
needed,  this  plan  is  often  followed,  thus  preserving  more 
of  the  lawn  for  ornamentation  and  reducing  the  cost  of  con- 
struction and  care. 


Landscape  Gardening 


Direction  of  Walks  and  Drives 

The  direction  of  the  walk  leading  from  the  house  to  the 
street  should  conform  to  the  needs  of  the  occupants.  Thus, 
if  the  direction  of  travel  is  equally  to  the  right  and  left 
from  the  street  entrance,  the  walk  should  run  nearly  in 
a  direct  line  from  the  main  entrance  of  the  house  to  the 
street,  as  in  the  dotted  line,  Fig.  55,  or  in  a  semicircular 
direction,  as  in  the  same  figure;  but  if  the  direction  of 


FIG.  54.  FIG.  55. 

FIG.  54.— Combined  Walk  and  Drive. 
FIG.  55.— Semicircular  Walk  and  Drive. 

travel  is  largely  to  the  right  or  left,  then  the  drive  or  walk 
can  be  directed  to  the  right  or  left  at  the  entrance,  as  desired. 

Width  of  Walks  and  Drives 

The  width  of  the  walks  and  drives  must  vary  with  the 
amount  of  usage.  If  there  is  much  passing  to  and  from 
the  house,  the  walk  may  be  made  from  5  to  6  feet  wide,  so 
that  two  or  three  persons  may  walk  abreast  or  pass  each 
other  readily;  but  if  two  persons  would  not  be  likely  to 
meet  frequently,  a  width  of  from  3  to  5  feet  would  be  suffi- 
cient. For  a  drive  where  only  one  team  would  pass  over 
the  road  at  a  time  8  to  10  feet  is  sufficient  width;  but  if 
two  teams  must  frequently  pass  over  it  at  once,  15  to  18 


Walks  and  Drives  99 

feet  will  be  none  too  great  a  width.  The  walks  and 
drives,  however,  ought  not  to  be  wider  than  are  absolutely 
needed,  for  the  wider  they  are  the  more  they  detract  from 
the  ornamental  features  of  the  place  and  the  greater  will 
be  the  cost  of  construction  and  maintenance. 

The  Turn-around 

Where  the  butcher,  the  baker,  grocer,  etc.,  visits  the  house 
frequently  or  where  one  drives  in  and  out  frequently  the 
turn-around  should  be  provided.  The  center  of  this  turn- 
around may  be  decorated  by  a  single  large  tree,  by  a  group 
of  shrubs,  the  taller  planted  in  the  middle,  or  by  herbaceous, 
or  even  annual  bedding  plants.  Small  evergreens  are  not 
very  satisfactory  in  such  places  as  they  are  likely  to  be  injured 
in  the  winter  when  frozen,  by  teams,  dogs  or  other  animals 
running  against  them,  or  by  the  burning  sun  in  summer  if 
planted  on  the  south  side. 

Obtaining  the  Curves 

Too  much  care  cannot  be  exercised  in  laying  out  and 
forming  the  curves  of  walks  and  drives,  for  when  completed 
with  a  proper  foundation  it  is  difficult  to  make  a  change 
of  location  or  direction  except  at  large  expense. 

Most  inexperienced  persons  find  some  difficulty  in  obtain- 
ing graceful  and  proper  curves,  but  to  the  professional 
landscape-gardener  it  is  a  simple  matter. 

The  point  of  start  and  termination  must  be  decided  upon 
and  also  the  prcminent  features  that  may  be  brought  to 
view  along  its  course.  The  walk  should  be  made  to  pass  if 
possible  where  pleasing  features  will  be  seen,  and  not  where 
those  of  an  unpleasant  character  will  be  brought  to  view. 

Many  means  are  employed  to  obtain  the  desired  curve. 
If  an  engineer  is  employed,  this  is  quickly  and  very  accu- 


100 


Landscape  Gardening 


rately  done  with  surveying-instruments;  but  for  all  ordinary 
work  it  can  be  done  with  sufficient  accuracy  by  the  eye, 
setting  up  small  stakes  at  regular  intervals,  as  in  Fig.  56, 
and  sighting  along  until  the  line  is  covered  (the  more  abrupt 
the  curve  the  closer  the  stakes  must  be  set),  then  viewing 
the  stakes  backward  and  forward  once  or  twice,  changing 
here  and  there  until  a  satisfactory  curve  is  obtained.  The 


FIG.  56. — Method  of  Obtaining  Curve. 

desired  width  at  all  points  is  then  obtained  by  measuring 
the  same  distance  from  each  of  the  stakes  to  the  opposite 
side  of  the  walk.  On  large  grounds  a  carriage  driven 
rapidly  and  skilfully  over  the  surface  will  make  very  regular 
and  graceful  curves.  The  bicycle  also  may  be  brought 
into  use  for  this  work,  or  a  stiff  rope  or  rubber  hose  laid 
on  the  ground  and  moved  until  the  desired  curve  is  obtained, 
the  mark  to  be  made  by  pressing  it  into  the  soft  soil  with 
the  feet,  or  if  in  grass  the  curve  made  in  the  above  way  may 
be  located  by  setting  up  small  stakes  at  frequent  intervals 
along  the  line  of  rope  or  hose.  After  the  curve  is  laid  out 


Walks  and  Drives  101 

permanent  stakes  should  always  be  set  firmly  enough  so 
that  they  may  not  be  moved  until  the  work  of  grading, 
filling,  trimming,  and  smoothing  off  is  completed. 

Construction  of  Drives  and  Walks 

A  good  walk  or  drive  cannot  be  made  on  a  poor  founda- 
tion, any  more  than  a  bridge  or  a  house.  A  foundation 
must  be  provided  that  will  not  allow  of  settling  unevenly 
by  the  action  of  frost.  Standing  water  under  the  walk  will 
also  cause  uneven  settling,  and  one  of  the  first  steps  to  take 
in  providing  for  the  foundation  is  the  removal  of  any  sur- 
plus water.  If  not  naturally  underdrained,  a  tile  or  stone 
drain  should  be  laid  not  less  than  3!  feet  below  the  surface, 
and  if  the  land  is  very  wet  and  the  walk  wide  a  line  of  tile 
on  each  side,  Fig.  57,  may  be  necessary.  On  a  side-hill  a 
deep-laid  drain  on  the  upper  side,  Fig.  58,  a  little  distance 
from  the  walk  will  often  be  more  effective  than  if  laid  directly 
under  it.  If  the  whole  lawn  is  well  underdrained,  no  other 
drainage  need  be  provided  except  that  obtained  in  con- 
struction. 

To  provide  a  walk  that  shall  be  dry  at  all  times  and 
especially  after  very  heavy  rains,  the  material  of  which  it 
is  made  should  be  of  very  porous  character.  This  condi- 
tion is  best  obtained  by  excavating  the  whole  space  to  be 
covered  from  one  to  two  feet  deep  and  filling  in  first  with 
boulders  and  rocks,  then  with  smaller  stones  and  coarse 
gravel,  and  finally  with  gravel  from  which  most  of  the  sand 
or  loam  has  been  screened. 

The  rocks  and  boulders  should  be  first  packed  as  closely 
as  possible,  then  the  small  stones  filled  in  about  them,  and 
then  the  coarse  gravel  packed  and  tamped  down  thoroughly. 
If  a  heavy  roller  is  obtainable  and  can  be  used  at  the  differ- 
ent stages  of  construction,  this  will  be  the  best  means  of 


102 


Landscape  Gardening 


compacting  each  layer,  but  if  not,  a  heavy  iron  or  wood 
tamper,  used  skilfully,  will  do  good  work. 

A  walk  constructed  as  above  described  will  remain  firm 
and  dry  for  a  great  many  years,  and  will  require  little  labor 
to  keep  it  in  a  neat  condition  and  free  from  weeds.  The 
surface  of  such  a  walk  may  be  made  nearly  flat,  while  if 


wmmmm 

FIG.  57. — Section  of  Walk  or  Drive  Showing  Location  of  Tile. 

good  material  is  not  available  and  a  good  foundation  is  not 
provided  it  must  be  made  crowning  in  the  middle,  and  the 
poorer  the  material  the  more  crowning  it  must  be  and  then 
not  be  wholly  satisfactory.  The  materials  of  which  the 
walk  is  constructed  should  not  be  filled  above  the  level  of 
the  lawn  on  a  sloping  surface  unless  found  necessary,  as  the 


FIG.  58.— Section  of  Walk  or  Drive  on  Side'Hill. 

surface-water  during  heavy  showers  would  accumulate, 
washing  out  the  gravel.  Should  such  a  form  be  necessary, 
this  danger  should  be  provided  against  by  making  a  gutter 
along  the  upper  side  of  the  walk,  with  catch-basins  into 
drain  tile  or  a  tile  culvert  to  carry  the  water  under  the  walk. 
This  gutter  may  be  made  as  a  part  of  the  walk  with  paving- 
stones  or  asphalt,  Fig.  58,  or  a  very  good  one  can  often 


Walks  and  Drives  103 

be   made   in   the   turf  without   disfiguring   the  lawn   (see 

Fig.  57). 

To  prevent  washing,  care  should  be  taken  that  no  basins  be 
formed  by  the  walks  or  drives  as  they  pass  through  the 
valleys  or  turn  along  the  face  of  a  slope,  and  if  such  become  a 
necessity  culverts  of  stone  or  tile  should  be  put  under  them 
so  that  the  water  may  pass  to  the  other  side  before  there  is 
much  accumulation. 

The  edges  of  the  walks  and  drives  will  need  more  or  less 
attention  at  all  times  to  keep  the  grass  from  growing  in  and 
forming  irregular  borders,  and  trimming  is  best  done  with 
the  "edging  knife."  The  surface  also  will  need  an  occa- 
sional raking  or  smoothing  over,  and  once  in  two  or  three 
years  a  dressing  of  screened  fine  gravel  or  sand  will  greatly 
improve  the  surface  and  keep  it  filled  up  to  the  level  of  the 
lawn. 

If  the  workmen  employed  cannot  cut  the  edges  to  true 
curves  by  the  eye,  the  garden-line  should  be  stretched  and 
stakes  set  at  frequent  intervals  along  the  curve  until  a 
complete  and  perfect  curve  is  outlined. 

All  weeds  should  be  removed  before  they  become  so  fully 
rooted  as  to  require  the  hoe  or  hook  to  remove  them. 

On  the  drives  all  loose  stones  or  those  projecting  above 
the  surface  should  be  removed  at  once,  for,  besides  the 
discomfort  they  cause  the  traveller,  they  are  seriously 
injurious  to  both  the  carriage  and  the  road. 


CHAPTER  VII 
RENOVATING   AND   IMPROVING    OLD    HOMES 

THE  established  home  is  often  far  more  difficult  to  treat 
than  where  the  land  is  clear  and  new  material  only  is  to  be 
used.  It  often  is  also  the  case  that  there  are  objectionable 
features  that  must  be  removed  before  anything  like  real 
beauty  can  be  evolved;  as,  for  example:  ist.  Trees,  shrubs, 
and  vines  may  be  so  closely  planted  and  so  entangled  that 
none  of  them  can  ever  be  made  beautiful  objects.  This  is 
shown  to  some  extent  in  Fig.  59.  2d.  There  may  be  un- 
natural embankments,  slopes,  terraces,  or  basins.  3d. 
Bank  walls,  unsightly  fences,  and  improperly  located  build- 
ings. 4th.  Unnaturally  located  and  unnecessary  walks  and 
drives. 

In  other  cases  much  valuable  material  may  be  found  in 
a  condition  that,  with  a  little  proper  care,  may  be  easily 
improved  so  as  to  become  objects  of  great  beauty  in  a  much 
shorter  time  than  if  new  trees  or  shrubs  were  planted. 

When  a  place  is  taken  that  has  for  a  long  time  been 
under  neglect  or  improper  care,  the  walks  overgrown  and 
trees  and  shrubs  more  or  less  a  tangled  mass,  there  seems 
to  be  but  one  of  two  things  to  do,  i.e.,  to  either  cut  down 
everything  on  the  place,  clear  up  and  grade  the  land,  and 
begin  as  in  a  new  place,  or  to  thin  out  some  of  the  least 
desirable  and  trim  up  those  of  value  and  plant  other  desir- 
able trees  and  shrubs  in  proper  relation  to  each  other  among 
those  standing  (removing,  of  course,  such  as  will  absolutely 
prevent  the  growth  of  the  new  ones),  give  them  careful 

104 


Renovating  and  Improving  Old  Homes     105 


I 


166  Landscape  Gardening 

fertilization,  and  then  remove  the  old  trees  as  soon  as  the 
new  ones  have  made  growth  enough  to  serve  the  desired 
purpose  of  ornamentation. 

Preserving  and  Improving  Deciduous  Trees 

In  some  cases  deciduous  trees  may  be  found  that  by 
severely  heading  in,  as  in  Fig.  24,  at  the  dotted  lines  a,  in 
a  few  years  will  become  symmetrical  and  well-formed  trees, 
as  in  Fig.  20.  Such  trees  as  the  elm,  oak,  maple,  and  many 
others  are  very  easily  renewed  in  this  way,  but  the  ever- 
greens when  once  they  have  lost  their  lower  branches  can 
never  be  renovated  without  great  expense  and  loss  of  time. 

Renewing  Shrubs  and  Hedges 

Overgrown  shrubs  may  be  more  easily  renewed  than  large 
trees,  as  they  will  stand  more  severe  pruning.  If  very 
much  overgrown  and  in  clumps,  a  part  of  the  main  clump 


'a 

FIG.  60.  FIG.  61.  FIG.  62. 

FIGS.  60-62. — A  Shrub  Divided  and  Pruned  for  Transplanting. 

may  be  dug  up  and  the  remainder  severely  headed  back, 
when  a  wholly  new  top  will  be  formed.  This  is  illustrated 
in  Figs.  60  and  61.  If  the  soil  be  then  enriched  and  a  little 
pinching  in  of  the  strong-growing  branches  that  tend  to  out- 
grow the  others  be  done  during  the  summer,  bushes  of  large 
size  may  be  made  in  a  very  short  time  to  take  perfect  form, 
and  often  with  far  less  labor  and  expense  than  if  yqurig 


Renovating  and  Improving  Old  Homes     107 

shrubs  were  planted.  After  being  well  established,  the 
after  pruning  given  should  be  in  the  direction  of  the  dotted 
line  a,  Fig.  47. 

Hedges  like  the  honey-locust,  Osage  orange,  buckthorn, 
privet,  and  Japan  quince,  which  have  long  been  neglected, 
may  often  be  renovated  by  a  little  heroic  treatment.  Fig.  61 
is  a  sectional  view  illustrating  the  condition  in  which  neg- 
lected hedges  often  are  found.  By  cutting  this  hedge  at 
the  dotted  line,  and  then  as  the  young  shoots  grow  unevenly 
pruning  off  the  ends  of  the  most  vigorous,  a  uniform  height 
and  a  low-branching  condition  may  be  soon  attained,  with- 
out which  no  hedge  is  either  ornamental  or  useful. 

A  hedge  is  under  some  conditions  an  ornamental  feature 
of  a  landscape  view  and  often  serves  as  a  screen  from  some 
unsightly  object;  but  generally  there  is  little  of  the  orna- 
mental or  useful  about  it.  Where  growing  on  old  places 
in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  it  will  be  found  that  more  pleasing 
effects  may  be  obtained  by  the  removal  of  such  a  hedge,  and 
grass  and  a  few  naturally  formed  trees  and  shrubs  planted 
about  the  place  occupied  by  it  than  by  trying  to  renew  its 
growth  as  a  hedge.  Evergreen  hedges,  when  not  too  large, 
may  be  renewed  by  the  heroic  treatment,  but  it  takes  several 
years  after  heading  in  for  them  to  become  again  covered  with 
foliage  so  as  to  be  ornamental. 

For  full  description  and  care  of  hedges  see  Chapter  V. 

Renovating  Hardy  Herbaceous  Plants 

On  many  an  old  place  may  be  found  more  or  less  of  those 
most  interesting  and  desirable  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  like 
peonies,  phloxes,  larkspur,  iris,  etc.,  that  may  be  utilized 
in  the  decoration  of  a  home.  Generally  they  are  root- 
bound  among  grass  and  shrubs,  and  can  never  be  made 
of  any  value  unless  taken  up  and  transplanted  to  good, 
clean,  well-enriched  soil.  In  doing  this  only  the  strong 


108  Landscape  Gardening 

young  roots  should  be  used,  and  all  grass  and  weeds  should 
be  carefully  separated  from  them. 

The  fall  is  a  good  time  for  this  transplanting,  though  it 
can  be  done  successfully  early  in  the  spring  before  much 
growth  has  taken  place.  If  the  land  in  which  they  are  to  be 
transplanted  is  not  in  a  proper  condition,  the  plants  may  be 
put  in  good  garden-soil  for  a  year  or  two,  where  they  will  be 
greatly  improved  and  be  ready  for  removal  when  a  proper 
soil-bed  is  ready  for  them. 

If  the  owner  of  a  newly  purchased  old  place  is  not  familiar 
with  the  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants  on  the  grounds  to  be 
renovated,  he  should  consult  some  one  who  can  tell  him 
of  the  value  of  each,  that  only  those  of  value  may  be  saved. 

Renovating  the  Lawn 

The  lawn  or  the  grass  in  and  about  the  grounds  of  most 
old  places  has  generally  been  so  long  neglected  that  weeds 
and  wild  grasses  have  taken  possession  and  driven  out  the 
finer  kinds  that  give  the  green  velvety  carpet,  without 
which  any  place,  no  matter  how  lavishly  planned  or  grandly 
built,  looks  unfinished.  The  first  thing  to  do  with  the  old 
lawn,  if  under  such  conditions  that  the  land  can  be  ploughed 
or  otherwise  worked  deeply,  is  to  turn  the  sod  under,  manure 
heavily,  cultivate  thoroughly  for  one  or  two  years  until 
the  wild  grasses  and  weeds  are  subdued,  and  then  reseed 
in  August  or  April  with  i  to  2  bu.  June-grass,  i  to  2  bu. 
red-top,  and  8  Ibs.  of  white  clover  per  acre.*  But  it  more 
often  is  the  case  that  there  are  numerous  trees  and  other 
objects  on  an  old  place  that  prevent  this  thorough  treat- 
ment, and  the  cultivation  of  the  land  to  the  very  doorsteps, 
for  even  one  or  two  years,  is  not  a  very  pleasant  thing 
to  contemplate;  therefore  some  other  method  of  renovation 

*  See  Chapter  III  on  Lawns. 


Renovating  and  Improving  Old  Homes     109 

must  be  resorted  to.  Under  these  conditions  the  surface 
must  be  graded  by  shaving  off  the  projections  as  far  as 
possible,  raising  up  the  turf  and  filling  up  under  it  where 
there  are  depressions,  or  grading  over  the  uneven  surface 
with  good  soil,  so  as  to  present  an  even  and  flowing  outline. 
Then  grass-seed  of  the  same  kind  and  at  the  same  rate 
per  acre  as  for  the  new  lawn,  i.e.,  2  bu.  red- top,  2  bu.  June- 
grass,  and  8  Ibs.  of  white  clover  (the  poorer  the  soil  the 
more  seed  should  be  used),  should  be  sown,  raked  in  with 
a  liberal  dressing  of  fine  manure,  or  fertilizer  made  as  fol- 
lows: 1500  Ibs.  of  fine-ground  bone,  300  Ibs.  of  muriate 
of  potash,  and  200  Ibs.  of  nitrate  of  soda  or  sulphate  of 
ammonia,  per  acre.  Treated  in  this  way,  if  an  abundance 
of  water  is  used  and  if  the  grass  is  frequently  cut  during  the 
summer,  a  good  lawn  may  be  obtained  in  one  or  two  years, 

For  new  seeding  the  potash  and  nitrate  of  soda  should  be 
thoroughly  worked  in  with  the  -soil  some  time  before  the  seed 
is  sown. 

The  specially  prepared  lawn-dressings  are  equally  good 
in  place  of  the  above  fertilizers,  but  more  expensive. 

Smoothing  Abrupt  Slopes  and  Embankments 

As  far  as  possible  all  abrupt  slopes  and  embankments 
should  be  graded  down  into  well-rounded  and  graceful  out- 
lines. Such  grades  are  much  more  beautiful  than  abrupt 
terraces  or  slopes,  more  easily  cared  for,  and  there  is  no 
danger  from  injury  by  the  turf  sliding  down  or  being  broken 
down  by  stepping  upon  it  in  the  spring  as  the  frost  is  working 
out  of  the  ground. 

It  is  often  possible  to  remove  unsightly  bank  walls  and 
grade  over  the  place  with  graceful  rounded  outlines  that  are 
more  natural  and  beautiful,  and  wherever  possible  this 
should  be  done.  By  excavating  in  front  of  the  bank  wall, 


110 


Landscape  Gardening 


as  in  Fig.  63,  a  space  may  be  obtained  in  which  to  cover  up 
the  stones  if  they  are  needed  for  no  other  purpose,  when  the 
surface  may  be  sloped  off  at  line  BB. 

In  some  cases,  however,  where  the  house  is  located  on  a 
very  steep  slope  and  very  near  the  street,  a  retaining-wall 
becomes  a  necessity,  under  which  condition  the  only  way 
that  the  unnaturalness  of  the  surface  can  be  hidden  is  by 
covering  the  wall  with  climbing  vines  like  the  Japanese 
woodbine  (Ampelopsis  Vietchii),  Fig.  147,  page  257,  or  by 


FIG.  63. — Covering  Bank  Walls. 

planting  a  row  or  border  of  shrubs,  like  Japanese  barberry, 
or  small  evergreen  trees  in  front  of  the  wall.  Evergreen 
trees  and  shrubs  succeed  best  on  a  cool  northern  exposure 
unless  too  much  exposed  to  cold  winds. 

Deep  ditches  and  basins  that  cannot  be  easily  graded  over 
with  material  at  hand  often  serve  as  a  place  for  dumping 
rocks  and  other  materials  that  may  be  gathered  about  the 
place  or  along  the  roadside,  thus  working  great  improve- 
ment in  two  directions.  The  small  stones  also  will  serve  as 
the  best  kind  of  foundation  for  the  walks  and  drives,  while 
the  .firooH  soil  removed  from  the  walk  or  road-bed  will  serve 


Renovating  and  Improving  Old  Homes     111 

for  grading  or  dressing  over  the  uneven  surfaces  in  other 
parts  of  the  grounds  or  by  the  roadside. 

Removal  of  Fences 


ness, 


All  fences  are  objectionable  in  view  of  their  unnatural- 
lack  of  beauty,  the  expense  of  building  and  keeping 
in  repair,  and  wherever  they  can  be  dispensed  with  it  is 
economy  to  remove  them. 

Except  in  the  village  lot,  where  footpaths  are  likely  to 
be  formed  by  constant  crossing,  there  is  no  good  reason  why 
fences  may  not  be  wholly  dispensed  with.  It  is  sometimes 


FIG.  64.— Turfing  against  Bank  Wall. 

the  case  in  the  country  that  cattle  must  be  driven  along 
the  roadway  every  day  to  and  from  pasture,  when  a  fence 
may  be  needed,  but  where  there  is  only  small  chance  of 
injury  it  is  better  to  suffer  the  lesser  of  two  evils.  A  stone 
wall  may  often  be  covered  from  view  by  a  bank  of  soil 
against  it,  as  in  Fig.  64. 

Whatever  fence  is  maintained  should  be  as  simple  and 
inconspicuous  as  possible. 

Improperly  Located  Buildings 

The  greatest  source  of  difficulty  in  improving  established 
home  grounds  is  often  found  in  improperly  located  buildings. 
We  can  easily  dig  up  here  and  there  a  tree  or  prune  them  to 


112  Landscape  Gardening 

good  form  and  transplant  shrubs  and  herbaceous  plants 
with  little  cost,  but  to  relocate  buildings  often  entails  great 
expense.  One  of  the  greatest  mistakes  made  in  locating 
buildings  is  in  placing  them  too  near  the  street  and  too 
closely  together. 

The  main  buildings  can  seldom  be  moved  or  changed 
without  considerable  cost,  but  the  relocation  of  small  build- 
ings can  often  be  easily  made. 

If  possible,  all  the  buildings  should  be  located  some  dis- 
tance from  the  street  and  far  enough  from  the  boundary- 
line  to  allow  of  some  decorative  trees  and  shrubs  on  every 
side  of  them,  to  serve  as  a  setting  for  the  central  part  of 
the  home-picture,  the  house. 

In  case  the  buildings  are  nearly  or  quite  on  the  line  all 
the  view  to  be  obtained  must  be  dependent  upon  that  pro- 
vided or  allowed  by  neighbors,  and  the  only  thing  that  can 
be  done  to  improve  the  beauty  of  the  buildings  is  to  plant 
vines  to  grow  upon  the  wall  or  upon  a  trellis  very  close  up 
to  it. 

If  possible,  the  outbuildings  should  be  located  in  the  rear 
of  the  dwelling,  at  some  distance  from  it,  and  more  or  less 
screened  from  the  latter  and  from  outside  view,  unless  they 
are  more  or  less  ornamental  in  character.  The  exposed 
view  of  a  neat,  comfortable  stable  is  not  objectionable,  as 
it  may  be  so  arranged  as  to  give  the  air  of  substantial  com- 
fort and  extent  to  the  grounds  not  to  be  found  where  only 
the  house  is  in  view. 

Improperly  Located  Walks  and  Drives 

Another  frequent  fault  to  be  found  on  an  old  place  is 
improperly  located  walks  and  drives. 

The  proper  location  of  these  necessities  of  comfort  is  of 
the  greatest  importance,  and  the  reader  is  referred  to  Chapter 
VI,  where  the  matter  is  more  fully  discussed. 


Renovating  and  Improving  Old  Homes     113 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  in  the  construction  of  roads 
and  walks,  under  all  circumstances,  that  a  good  road  cannot 
be  made,  no  matter  what  the  material  used,  unless  the  road- 
bed is  thoroughly  underdrained,  and  the  surface  of  the  road 
or  walk  must  have  more  or  less  curve  or  slope  toward  the 
sides  to  carry  off  the  surface-water.  The  finer  and  poorer 
the  material  used,  the  greater  this  curve  must  be. 

Wherever  it  is  possible  one  or  more  lines  of  tile  should  be 
placed  under  the  road-bed,  at  least  three  feet  deep,  with 
a  good  fall  and  free  outlet  for  drainage. 

The  extent  of  the  walks  and  drives  should  be  limited  to 
the  actual  needs  of  the  place.  The  fewer  the  gravelled 
walks  or  roads  the  better;  yet  a  place  without  at  least  a 
walk  up  to  the  front  door,  or  a  smooth  drive  to  the  stable, 
would  look  inhospitable  or  almost  uninhabited. 

While  there  is  no  beauty  in  walks  and  drives  in  them- 
selves, yet  if  they  are  well  laid  out  in  graceful  curves  just 
where  they  are  needed,  and  well  cared  for,  the  variety  they 
afford  and  the  air  of  comfort  and  the  inviting  hospitality 
they  give  to  a  place  make  them  very  important  factors  in 
all  home  landscape  work. 

In  many  cases  the  relocation  of  walks  and  drives  is  sim- 
ply a  matter  of  ploughing  up  the  old  one,  grading  a  little 
and  relocating,  as  a  majority  of  these  walks  are  made  on  the 
surface  of  the  ground  without  previous  subsoil  preparation. 
If,  however,  a  road-bed  has  been  formed  by  excavation 
and  filling  in  with  stones,  the  work  will  be  more  expensive. 

In  relocating,  the  rules  given  in  Chapter  VI  for  the  estab- 
lishment of  new  roads  and  walks  will  be  equally  applicable. 

An  already  established  place  that  needs  improving  may 
be  likened  to  an  unfinished  picture  the  details  of  which 
must  be  filled  out  and  retouched  and  any  defects  covered 
up,  while  in  the  new  place  we  have  but  the  canvas — the 
colors  and  other  material  are  all  new  and  fresh,  i.e.,  the 


114  Landscape  Gardening 

land,  the  rocks,  water,  buildings,  grass,  trees,  shrubs,  etc. 
The  result  in  the  first  case  depends  largely  upon  how  much 
and  how  good  is  the  work  that  has  been  done,  and  how 
skilful  the  artist  in  adapting  himself  to  the  ideas  already 
started,  and  in  remedying  defects.  In  the  second  case  the 
results  largely  depend  on  the  artist  alone. 

Farm-home  Decoration 

The  decoration  of  farm  homes  is  a  subject  not  often  dis- 
cussed in  works  on  landscape  gardening,  but  there  is  no 
place  so  susceptible  of  ornamentation  as  the  average  farm, 
and  possibly  no  place  where  so  little  is  done  to  improve  the 
beauty  of  the  home  surroundings.  Generally  there  is  an 
abundance  and  a  great  variety  of  land,  also  a  wealth  of 
materials  in  the  way  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants  that  may 
be  used,  and  the  tools,  teams,  and  labor  with  which  to  bring 
about  the  ornamental  results.  Fig.  65. 

Most   Home    Owners   Attempt   to   Cultivate  too  Much 

Land 

Most  of  our  farmers  and  home  makers  have  too  much 
land,  and  they  would  in  many  cases  grow  rich  faster  if  they 
cultivated  less  land  and  planted  the  less  productive  places, 
the  odd  bits,  the  rough  stony  fields  and  abrupt  slopes,  the 
small  irregular  lots  in  the  angles  formed  by  roads  or  fej*ce 
lines,  with  trees  that  would  be  a  source  of  beauty  and  in 
time  add  value  to  the  property.  Such  decoration  would 
be  a  source  of  pleasure  to  those  doing  the  work  and  to  all  of 
the  occupants  of  the  home,  and  the  pleasant  associations  and 
memories  of  the  farm  home,  where  beauty  and  utility  are 
thus  combined,  will  do  much  to  make  home  the  dearest  of 
all  places,  and  especially  prevent  the  young  men  from  leaving 
the  farm  for  city  life. 


Renovating  and  Improving  Old  Homes     115 

The  rules  for  planting,  arrangement,  and  care  of  trees 
and  shrubs  to  be  followed  in  this  work  are  given  in  previous 
chapters.  Many  unsightly  objects  can  be  easily  hidden 
from  view,  and  the  more  beautiful  features  in  the  picture 


FIG.  65 —A  Well-decorated  Farm  Home. 

from  the  dwelling  be  brought  out  more  prominently  and 
improved. 

Windbreaks  for  the  house  and  other  buildings  may  be 
easily  provided,  as  well  as  shelter  for  the  stock  in  the  pas- 
ture against  the  fierce  storms  of  spring  and  autumn  and 
the  burning  sun  of  the  summer. 

A  few  majestic  oaks,  chestnuts,  or  other  spreading  trees 


116  Landscape  Gardening 

in  the  pasture,  or  here  and  there  dotted  about  the  farm  or 
near  the  buildings,  add  much  to  the  beauty  and  character 
of  the  farm  landscape,  and  every  effort  possible  should  be 
made  to  encourage  the  growth  of  such  and  preserve  any 
that  may  be  already  established. 

Fruit-trees  as  Ornaments 

Fruit-trees  on  suitable  land  in  many  cases  may  be  used  in 
work  of  decoration  on  the  farm,  thus  serving  a  double  purpose. 
The  apple,  pear,  and  plum  require  a  strong;  well-enriched 
soil  and  an  avenue  of  them  just  inside  the  road  boundary, 
bordering  large  mowing  lot  or  farm  roadways,  if  properly 
cared  for  so  as  to  make  well-formed  heads,  would  be  a  source 
of  great  beauty  when  in  blossom,  and  again  when  loaded 
with  fruit  in  the  autumn.  The  cherry  and  peach  require 
a  lighter  soil  with  a  full  exposure  of  air,  as  on  the  brow  of  a 
hill  or  a  western  or  northwestern  exposure,  and  nothing  is 
more  beautiful  than  an  avenue  of  pyramidal  cherry-trees 
when  in  bloom  early  in  the  spring,  while  the  beauty  of  the 
peach  blossom  and  its  ripening  fruit  have  not  been  too 
highly  praised  in  song  and  story. 

The  labor  and  expense  required  to  produce  the  few  touches 
of  beauty  on  many  of  our  farms  to  make  them  homes  of 
comfort  and  beauty  are  very  small,  and  the  skill  and  taste 
acquired  in  this  work  will  enable  one  to  become  more  skilful 
in  other  directions,  i.e.,  in  growing  and  preparing  many  of 
the  profitable  crops  for  market. 

It  is  generally  conceded  that  the  most  successful  and 
thrifty  farmers  are  those  who  have  a  love  for  the  beautiful, 
who  keep  their  premises  in  a  neat  condition,  who  have 
every  tool  kept  in  its  proper  place  when  not  in  use,  and  who 
never  allow  anything  to  be  out  of  place  longer  than  is 
necessary.  No  waste,  no  leaks  are  allowed,  and  if  weeds  or 


Renovating  and  Improving  Old  Homes      117 

brush  interfere  with  their  growing  crops,  or  with  ornamental 
or  fruit  trees,  they  are  despatched.  Love  of  order  prevails 
everywhere,  about  the  barn,  by  the  roadside,  as  well  as  about 
the  home-buildings,  and  beauty  and  thrift  go  hand  in 
hand. 

We  are  largely  creatures  of  habit  of  thought  or  of  labor, 
and  anything  done  thoroughly,  systematically,  beautifully 
in  one  direction  helps  us  more  or  less  in  all  other  lines  of 
work. 

Farm-roads 

Good  farm-roads  are  a  necessity  for  quick  and  easy  trans- 
portation of  the  products  of  the  farm.  The  principles  of 
construction  of  such  are  the  same  as  for  other  roads,*  and 
where  there  is  an  abundance  of  stones  they  may  be  utilized 
for  foundation  and  unsightly  objects  removed  from  the  sur- 
face of  the  land  or  roadside. 

Road-making  is  very  expensive  business,  and  few  farmers 
find  profit  enough  in  their  work  to  warrant  the  expense  of 
long  lines  of  roadway.  Only  such  roads  as  are  absolutely 
needed  should  be  made,  and  the  expense  of  construction 
will  be  felt  less  if  only  a  short  length  is  constructed  at  one 
time.  Whenever  stones  are  being  picked  up  from  the 
land,  a  convenient  way  of  getting  rid  of  them  is  to  excavate 
a  piece  of  roadway  and  cover  with  a  dressing  of  gravel  on 
top.  This  is  far  better  than  dumping  them  along  the  road- 
sides or  in  some  other  equally  conspicuous  place,  where 
brush  and  weeds  will  grow  up  through  and  about  them  in 
such  a  manner  that  they  cannot  be  eradicated  except  by 
finally  removing  the  stones  and  tearing  them  out  root  and 
branch. 

*  See  Chapter  VIII,  on  Roads  and  Roadside  Improvements. 


118  Landscape  Gardening 

/ 

Removal  of  Stone  Walls  and  Fences 

Except  around  permanent  pastures  and  to  protect  fruit 
and  other  plantations  from  trespass,  walls  and  fences  are  no 
longer  a  necessity.  The  ordinary  fence  is  not  ornamental 
no  matter  how  nicely  made,  and  is  very  costly  to  construct 
and  keep  in  repair.  They  occupy  a  great  amount  of  land, 
and  the  average  stone  or  wood  farm-fence  gives  harbor  to 
mice,  squirrels,  and  other  vermin.  It  is  also  almost  impossi- 
ble to  keep  weeds  and  brush  from  getting  such  a  foothold 
along  their  line  as  not  to  be  easily  dislodged,  and  ornamental 
trees  and  shrubs  are  much  more  subject  to  insect  and  fun- 
gous pests,  making  it  very  difficult  to  grow  them  successfully 
where  such  harbors  for  these  pests  exist.  If  one  is  located 
near  a  large  and  growing  town  or  city,  stone  walls  can  be 
disposed  of  for  building  purposes,  and  the  "stone  crop"  of 
many  farms  often  becomes  a  large  source  of  income. 

Pond-holes  and  boggy  meadows  may  be  filled  up  with  the 
accumulating  small  stones,  covered  over  with  soil,  and  thus 
land  of  some  value  be  produced,  while  the  stones  are  put 
where  they  will  never  cause  further  trouble. 


CHAPTER  VIII 
COUNTRY  ROADS   AND   ROADSIDE   IMPROVEMENTS 

IT  is  often  said  that  the  condition  of  the  roads  in  any 
community  is  an  "index  of  the  intelligence  of  its  people"; 
and  while  this  may  not  be  wholly  true,  the  roads  are  an 
index  of  their  thrift  and  prosperity,  for  without  good  roads 
frequent  and  easy  communication  cannot  be  had,  farm 
crops  and  manufactured  products  cannot  be  taken  to 
market  at  the  same  cost  on  poor  as  on  good  roads,  because 
of  increased  time  required  for  transportation,  and  the 
greater  wear  and  tear  of  horses  and  carriages.  Then  there 
is  little  pleasure  or  comfort  in  riding  over  muddy,  rough, 
and  unkept  roads. 

In  many  sections  the  amount  of  money  appropriated  for 
the  constuction  and  repair  of  roads  is  sufficient  to  keep 
them  in  good  condition,  but  this  money  is  often  expended 
with  such  poor  judgment  as  to  leave  a  large  part  of  the 
roads  practically  uncared  for.  The  work,  too,  is  often  let 
out  to  parties  who  know  nothing  of  the  principles  of  road- 
making,  or  whose  greatest  care  is  to  make  as  much  profit 
from  the  work  as  possible. 

The  Conditions  Necessary  for  a  Good  Road 

To  construct  a  good  road  three  things  are  necessary,  viz., 
(i)  well-under  drained  soil,  (2)  a  good  foundation,  and  (3) 
good  road  material  for  the  surface. 

i.  In  ordinary  road-making  very  little  attention  is  given 
even  to  surface-draining,  much  less  to  underdraining, 

119 


120  Landscape  Gardening 

yet  nothing  would  improve  our  roads  at  so  small  a  cost  as 
tile  or  stone  drains  under  the  road-bed:  and  no  matter  how 
good  the  surface  material,  a  perfect  road  cannot  be  made 
without  perfect  drainage.  If  the  land  is  very  wet  and  full 
of  springs,  a  line  of  tile  on  both  sides  of  the  road-bed,  not 
less  than  3^  feet  below  the  surface,  may  be  needed.  See 
Figs.  57  and  58.  If  the  road  is  on  a  slope,  the  tile  should 
be  placed  a  little  above  the  upper  gutter  to  cut  off  all  water 
that  would  flow  to  the  surface. 

2.  A  layer  of  stones  from  six  inches  to  one  foot  in  thick- 
ness placed  at  a  depth  of  two  or  three  feet  below  the  level  of 
the  road  and  well  packed  in  at  the  bottom,  provides  good 
drainage  for  a  time  and  makes  a  very  solid  foundation  upon 
which  to  place  smaller  stones  and  a  top  layer  of  gravel  six 
to  eight  inches  deep.     But  for  ordinary  road-making  this 
foundation  will  not  be  required  if  the  surface-drainage  and 
underdrainage  are  well  attended  to. 

3.  Good  materials  for  road-making  are  often  difficult  to 
obtain  without  considerable  expense,   but  with   the  good 
foundation  resulting   from   thorough   drainage  fairly  good 
roads  are  sometimes  made  with  poor  surface  material. 

Broken-stone  Roads 

The  best  material  for  a  permanent  road  is  undoubtedly 
broken  stone,  and  it  will  generally  be  found  the  cheapest  in 
the  end;  and  next  to  this  is  clean  sharp  gravel  with  more 
or  less  small  stones  intermixed.  To  make  the  broken-stone 
road  requires  the  investment  of  considerable  capital  in  stone- 
crushers  and  heavy  steam-rollers,  which  is  beyond  the 
means  of  small  towns. 

The  assistance  now  being  offered  by  many  States  to 
suburban  districts  in  the  construction  of  State  roads  made 
on  the  most  approved  principles  will  lead  to  rapid  progress 


Country  Roads  and  Roadside  Improvements    121 

in  correct  ideas  of  road-making;  and  the  large  number  of 
automobiles  and  bicycles  now  in  use  will  furnish  another 
incentive  to  further  improvement. 

In  this  volume  no  attempt  will  be  made  to  give  detailed 
instructions  for  the  construction  of  broken-stone  roads 
(Fig.  67),  but  the  discussion  will  be  confined  to  the  making 
and  improving  of  ordinary  gravel  roads. 

Surface  of  the  Road 

The  most  noticeable  feature  of  the  ordinary  country  road 
is  its  flatness  and  unevenness  of  surface  and  the  little  atten- 
tion given  to  surface  outline  and  underdrainage,  both  of 


FIG.  66. — Section  of  Ordinary  Country  Road. 

which  defects  can  be  easily  remedied.  A  section  of  the 
ordinary  road,  as  often  seen,  is  shown  in  Fig.  66,  where  the 
shoulders  are  higher  than  the  road-bed  and  with  depressions 
or  basins  here  and  there,  caused  by  settling  from  the  weight 


FIG.  67. — Section  of  Macadam  Road. 

of  traffic  or  from  the  displacement  by  frost.  Such  a  road 
will  wear  out  rapidly  where  the  water  stands,  will  be  unpleas- 
ant to  drive  over  on  account  of  uneven  surface  and  mud, 
and  the  worn  particles  of  the  road  will  not  be  washed  out 
to  the  side,  but  become  fine  dust  during  dry  weather.  Fig. 
67  illustrates  the  modern  macadam  road  with  well-rounded 
surface  and  gutters;  but  whether  the  road  be  constructed 


122  Landscape  Gardening 

of  broken  stone  or  not,  the  rounded  surface  and  gutters  are 
a  necessity  for  a  good  road. 

The  surface  of  the  road  must  be  given  more  or  less  crown- 
ing, according  to  the  material  used.  The  poorer  or  more 
loamy  the  material  the  more  must  it  be  crowned  or  rounded. 


FIG.  68,— A  Properly  Constructed  Bar. 

The  shoulders  made  by  the  settling  of  the  centre  of  the  road, 
and  by  growth  of  grass  and  washing  of  the  fine  particles 
from  the  centre,  should  be  removed  whenever  they  are  so  high 
as  to  interfere  with  the  quick  passage  of  the  surface-water 
to  the  side  gutters.  Gutters  or  ditches  must  be  provided 
along  the  roadsides  to  prevent  surface-water  from  washing 


FIG.  69. — An  Improperly  Constructed  Bar. 

up  on  the  road  surface  and  to  catch  and  carry  off  quickly 
the  wash  from  the  road.  These  ditches  must  have  frequent 
outlets  and  be  without  basins  in  which  the  water  will  stand. 
On  hillsides  frequent  light  bars  should  be  made,  and  be  kept 
in  such  condition  at  all  times  that  no  water  will  run  over  them 
into  the  middle  of  the  road.  They  should  start  from  the  mid- 
dle of  the  road  and  run  diagonally  to  each  side  (Fig.  68)  and 


Country  Roads  and  Roadside  Improvements    123 

not  diagonally  across  the  whole  road.  If  made  as  in  the 
first  case  both  wheels  will  strike  the  bar  at  once  and  no  side 
jolt  will  be  felt,  while  if  constructed  as  in  the  second  case 
a  very  unpleasant  side  jolt  is  produced  and  carriages  are 
often  seriously  wrenched.  When  the  auto  is  used  these  bars 
must  be  made  more  solid  and  shallow  than  where  carriages 
are  used.  On  the  upper  side  of  a  side-hill  road  good  and 
frequently  cleared  gutters  are  needed  to  prevent  washing, 
and  also  frequent  culverts  to  carry  the  water  across  to  the 
lower  side;  for  if  the  water  runs  over  the  roadside  and  a 
long  distance  in  the  middle  of  the  road,  it  often  gains  such 
momentum  as  to  do  a  great  amount  of  damage  during 
heavy  rains. 

Width  of  Road-bed 

The  width  of  the  road-bed  as  constructed  by  our  road- 
makers  is  very  variable,  some  making  them  from  15  to  20 
feet,  while  others  would  make  them  only  from  8  to  10  feet 
wide  for  the  same  amount  of  traffic.  On  most  main  roads 
between  large  towns  and  cities  the  width  need  not  be  over 
15  feet,  or  only  wide  enough  for  two  teams  to  pass  readily, 
with  rounded,  sloping,  well-turfed  sides  which  will  not  be 
injured  by  an  occasional  turning  out  upon  them,  and  crown- 
ing sufficiently  to  allow  the  surface-water  to  pass  off  quickly. 

In  less  thickly  settled  districts  a  single  width  of  road-bed, 
i.e.,  from  8  to  10  feet  wide,  will  be  as  much  as  is  needed, 
and  will  be  much  less  expensive  in  construction  and  repairs 
than  if  made  wider. 

Repairing  Roads 

One  of  the  greatest  mistakes  made  in  repairing  roads  is 
in  using  poor  material  for  dressing  them  over,  when  good 
material  may  be  obtained  at  only  a  little  additional  cost. 

The  best  gravel  that  is  to  be  had  within  reasonable  dis- 
tance will  generally  be  found  the  cheapest  in  the  end. 


124 


Landscape  Gardening 


A  great  mistake  is  often  made  also  in  spreading  the 
repair  material  evenly  over  the  whole  road  surface,  is  in 
Fig.  70,  when  one-half  of  the  material  placed  in  the  centre 
with  the  shoulders  of  the  road  removed,  as  in  Fig.  71,  would 
give  far  better  results.  If  the  material  is  put  on  flat,  the 
road-bed  will  remain  flat,  or  grow  more  and  more  depressed 
in  the  middle,  and  none  of  the  fine-worn  material  can  pass 


FIG.  70. — An  Improperly  Gravelled  Road. 

off,  but  remains  to  make  mud  and  dust ;  while  if  well  rounded 
in  the  centre  it  will  retain  its  form  for  some  time,  the  fine- 
worn  material  or  dust  will  be  washed  to  the  outside  of  the 
road,  and  less  trouble  will  be  experienced  with  mud  and 
dust. 

The  gravel  placed  in  the  center  of  the  road  will  work  to 
the  outside  as  fast  as  it  is  needed  to  keep  the  form  of  the 


FIG.  71. — A  Properly  Gravelled  Road. 


road-bed,  and  there  is  scarcely  ever  any  good  reason  for 
spreading  it  more  than  from  6  to  8  feet  wide  in  a  road-bed 
of  a  single  width,  or  12  to  14  feet  in  a  double-track  road. 

As  far  as  possible  when  dressing  over  a  road  the  coarser 
material  should  be  kept  spread  or  raked  forward  as  each 
succeeding  load  is  added  and  well  covered  with  the  finer 
material. 

Road-repairing  should  be  done  in  the  spring  before  the 


Country  Roads  and  Roadside  Improvements    125 

ground  has  become  fully  settled  that  the  repair  material 
may  settle  into  the  soft  soil. 

If  the  shoulders  (a,  Fig.  71)  of  the  road  are  kept  worked  off 
by  the  road-scraper  or  plough,  and  a  thin  coating  of  gravel  be 
put  on  in  the  centre  each  season,  any  ordinarily  well  under- 
drained  road  can  be  kept  in  good  repair  at  a  very  small  cost. 

Road-scrapers  when  properly  used  are  great  labor-savers, 
and  in  sections  where  ordinary  soil  must  be  used — and  there 
are  many  such — they  save  a  great  amount  of  labor  and 
expense.  Where  the  unworn  material  on  the  edges  can  be 
used  to  advantage,  or  for  the  purpose  of  breaking  off  the 
shoulders,  the  rounding  of  the  surface  of  the  road  in  the 
spring,  the  road-scraper  will  do  the  work  quickly  and  thor- 
oughly, but  to  use  it  during  the  summer  for  any  other 
purpose  than  for  scraping  off  the  worn  material  will  result 
in  more  harm  than  good. 

The  practice  of  turnpiking  or  scraping  poor  material,  like 
turf  and  loam,  into  the  middle  of  the  road  during  the  summer 
will  largely  account  for  the  poor  condition  of  many  of  our 
roads. 

All  turf  turned  up  by  the  road-scraper  or  plough  should  be 
removed  from  the  road-bed  entirely  and  used  for  filling  in 
over  steep  enbankments,  deep  gutters,  or  in  levelling  up 
and  otherwise  improving  the  roadside. 

Roadside  Improvement 

In  the  rush  and  hurry  to  gain  wealth  or  fame  we  Americans 
often  forget  everything  but  our  immediate  surroundings, 
and  our  roadsides,  even  in  the  vicinity  of  many  well-kept 
residences,  are  in  a  state  of  utter  neglect — not  only  this, 
but  the  roadsides  are  made  a  dumping-place  for  rubbish  of 
all  sorts. 

It  would  require  but  little  time  or  expense  to  put  the 


126  Landscape  Gardening 

roadsides  in  our  towns  and  villages  into  a  state  of  great 
beauty  and  neatness  if  all  would  work  together  in  the  right 
way.  Perhaps  the  first  and  most  important  consideration 
in  roadside  improvement  is  that  all  shall  refrain  from  dump- 
ing rubbish  of  any  kind  along  the  roadside,  and  the  highway 
surveyor  or  road  commissioner  or  agent  should  first  set 
the  example,  and  whenever  trees  are  trimmed  up  or  brush 
is  cut  along  the  roadside,  or  stones  picked  up  or  dug  out 
of  the  road-bed,  that  all  shall  be  removed  entirely  from 
within  the  road  boundaries.  All  accumulations  of  stone  or 
other  rubbish  should  be  removed,  so  that  desirable  trees 
may  be  improved  and  undesirable  trees,  shrubs,  or  weeds, 
can  be  easily  eradicated. 

The  expense  of  this  work  need  not  be  very  great,  for 
almost  everywhere  there  may  be  found  pond-holes,  ditches, 
ravines,  etc.,  where  such  materials  may  be  dumped  and 
covered  up.  The  next  important  matter  is  the  smoothing 
and  evening  up  of  the  surface  of  the  roadside.  Here  again 
those  in  charge  of  the  repairs  of  the  roads  should  take  the 
initiative,  and  all  turf  and  loamy  soil  not  suitable  to  be 
put  on  the  road-surface  should  be  used  for  smoothing  up 
and  making  gracefully  curved  or  sloping  roadsides. 

Preserve  Native  Trees  and  Shrubs 

The  native  trees  and  shrubs  should  next  have  considera- 
tion. No  country  possesses  so  many  beautiful  woody  plants 
as  the  United  States;  they  are  generally  found  growing 
where  they  thrive  best,  and  any  desirable  kinds  found 
growing  by  the  roadside  that  can  be  made  to  produce  a 
proper  form  of  growth  should  be  preserved  and  improved. 

The  laws  passed  by  some  of  our  States  for  the  protection 
of  shade-trees,  whereby  it  is  made  the  privilege  (it  should 
be  the  "duty")  of  the  town  or  city  authorities  to  mark 


Country  Roads  and  Roadside  Improvements    127 


such  trees  and  shrubs  as  it  is  desirable  to  have  preserved, 
and  making  it  a  criminal  offence  to  destroy  those  thus 


marked,  are  steps  in  the  right  direction,  and  should  be 
adopted  in  every  State. 


128  Landscape  Gardening 

There  is  nothing  which  adds  so  much  to  the  comfort  of 
the  travelling  public  as  well-shaded  streets,  and  a  compara- 
tively short  time  is  required  for  our  most  rapidly  growing 
trees  to  reach  the  size  to  afford  considerable  shade;  but, 
whether  we  live  to  enjoy  or  see  others  enjoy  their  beauty 
and  shade  or  not,  we  are  certain  that  if  properly  planted  in 
suitable  soil  more  than  one  generation  will  be  benefited 
by  them.  If  every  landowner  would  trim  up  and  care  for 
a  few  trees  found  growing  by  his  roadside,  or  plant  a  few 
each  year  where  none  are  now  growing,  it  would  be  but  a 
short  time  before  our  country  would  be  noted  for  the  beauty 
of  its  roadways,  as  well  as  for  the  general  comfort  and  beauty 
of  the  homes  of  its  common  people. 

Trees  found  growing  by  our  roadsides  will  often  be  of  many 
varieties  and  will  seldom  be  in  such  exact  lines  as  if  planted, 
but  often  more  real  beauty  will  be  the  result  of  this  variety 
and  irregularity  of  line  and  spacing.  In  many  cases  very 
beautiful  results  will  be  obtained  by  this  irregular  arrange- 
ment; at  many  points  along  a  roadway  interesting  views  of 
extended  landscapes  or  glimpses  of  water  are  brought  to 
view  that  would  be  hidden  if  the  line  of  trees  was  unbroken. 
Fig.  73  shows  a  beautiful  roadside  picture. 

Along  almost  every  country  road  may  be  found  young 
trees  that  have  sprung  up  from  seed  planted  by  nature  in 
the  shelter  of  the  stone  wall  or  fence  and  hedge-rows.  These 
trees  are  generally  well  rooted,  and  if  allowed  to  grow  and 
are  given  proper  care  as  to  pruning  and  protection  while 
young  they  will  make  better  formed,  more  hardy  and  long- 
lived  trees  than  those  grown  in  the  nurseries.  Should  the 
trees  have  been  injured  by  growing  too  closely,  their  form 
may  be  remedied  as  described  in  Chapter  VII  on  "Renovat- 
ing Old  Places." 


Country  Roads  and  Roadside  Improvements   129 


Fruit-trees  along  Roadways 

As  a  matter  of  economy  fruit-trees  along  the  roadsides 
are  advisable,  for  they  generally  grow  with  great  luxuriance 
with  little  care,  produce  large  crops  of  fruit,  and,  in  a  measure, 
serve  the  purpose  of  ornamentation,  but  they  do  not  give 
the  desired  shade,  such  as  is  produced  by  the  elm,  maple, 
oak,  and  other  tall-growing  ornamental  trees,  and  which  is 
one  of  the  main  objects  of  roadside  tree-planting. 

Planting  Avenues 

In  almost  every  section  of  our  country  we  find  beautiful 
avenues  of  shade-trees  along  the  roadsides  which  have  been 
planted  by  public-spirited  citizens,  and  such  avenues  are 
grander  monuments  to  their  memory  than  stone  or  marble; 
but  the  amount  of  roadway  thus  decorated  is  very  small  as 
compared  with  that  which  is  bare  and  possessed  of  little  or 
no  beauty.  Village  improvement  societies,  Arbor-day  plant- 
ing, planting-bees,  etc.,  are  doing  much  to  encourage  and 
increase  the  good  work.  The  expense  of  the  trees  is  very 
small,  and  it  requires  but  an  hour  or  two  to  obtain  and 
plant  a  tree,  and  every  landowner  will  find  a  few  hours 
spent  each  year  in  thus  adding  to  the  beauty  of  his  sur- 
roundings often  the  most  profitable  hours  of  his  life,  adding 
to  the  value  of  his  property  and  building  a  monument 
that  shall  stand  long  after  his  face  has  been  forgotten. 


Ornamental  Shrubs  and  Flowering  Plants  along 
the  Roadsides 

The  great   variety    of    ornamental  shrubs,    vines,    and 
plants  that  we  find   growing    along    our    country    roads, 


130 


Landscape  Gardening 


even  when   growing  in    neglect,  are    often    very  beautiful 
features,  and  with  a  little  care  might  be  made  to  give  as 


.6 
8. 


.§ 

a, 

< 
* 


PQ 

i 
8 


beautiful  results  as  are  often  obtained  by  planting  on  the 
lawn. 


Country  Roads  and  Roadside  Improvements   131 

The  planting  of  exotic  or  imported  species  under  such 
conditions  seems  not  in  good  taste  and  cannot  be  recom- 
mended. 


FIG.  74. — A  Roadside  Picture.     Natural  growth  well  cared  for. 

Grass  alone  under  roadside  trees  and  shrubs  unless  well 
trimmed  is  not  a  very  ornamental  feature,  but  is  necessary 
to  a  perfect  finish  and  setting  of  the  trees  and  shrubs. 


132  Landscape  Gardening 

If  the  land  is  smooth  and  free  from  stones  and  can  be 
ploughed  through  to  the  roadway,  the  surface  can  be  very 
easily  graded  up  and  finished  around  the  ornamental  plant- 
ing, but  generally  the  smoothing  and  levelling  must  be  done 
by  the  slow  process  of  digging  off  the  projections  and  filling 
up  the  depressions. 

The  same  smoothness  that  we  find  on  the  lawn  is  not  to 
be  expected  or  desired,  but  there  should  always  be  a  well- 
rounded  gutter  between  the  road-bed  and  the  border. 

As  with  trees,  we  find  also  a  great  many  shrubs,  ferns, 
and  flowering  plants  already  established  along  the  roadsides, 
and  but  little  care  is  needed  to  put  them  in  condition  of 
perfect  growth.  Shrubs  can  be  more  severely  pruned  and 
more  quickly  grown  into  perfect  shape  than  trees. 

This  work,  however,  should  not  be  left  to  the  irresponsi- 
ble road  commissioner  or  agent,  but  should  be  in  the  hands 
of  the  village  improvement  society  or  some  one  who  can  be 
depended  upon  to  trim  out  only  the  undesirable  varieties 
and  preserve  such  as  are  the  most  ornamental  and  of  the 
best  form. 

Should  the  soil  be  very  poor,  a  light  dressing  of  compost 
or  fertilizer  should  be  used,  but  generally  the  road-wash  can 
be  so  utilized  as  to  make  the  best  of  top-dressing  and  pro- 
duce the  most  perfect  growth. 

If  we  take  the  ornamental  trees,  shrubs,  vines,  etc.,  as  we 
find  them  along  our  roadsides,  we  are  pretty  sure  that  the 
soil  in  which  they  are  found  is  well  suited  to  their  growth,  but 
if  we  transplant  to  fill  up  places  not  properly  provided  we 
must  be  sure  to  set  out  such  as  are  suited  to  the  soil  and 
exposure  of  the  place.  Some  species  will  only  do  well  under 
conditions  of  a  close  tangled  growth  and  such  conditions 
must  be  provided  for  them,  while  those  that  only  reach  per- 
fection in  full  exposure  on  all  sides  should  be  planted  accord- 
ingly. 


Country  Roads  and  Roadside  Improvements   133 

The  custom  in  many  sections  of  our  country  of  regarding 
everything  growing  along  the  roadsides  as  common  property 
will  need  some  reform  before  roadside  decoration  can  be 
carried  out  to  its  fullest  extent,  but  the  process  of  education 
is  going  on  in  our  public  parks  and  squares,  in  cemeteries 
and  school-yards,  and  there  has  been  a  great  improvement 
in  the  respect  that  our  people  have  for  public  decoration, 
they  realizing  more  and  more  the  great  benefit  such  work 
is  to  the  community. 

Removal  of  Walls  and  Fences 

The  removal  of  walls  and  fences  wherever  not  needed  to 
keep  stock  in  the  pastures  will  do  more  than  anything  else 
to  help  on  the  cause  of  roadside  improvement.  Stone  walls 
and  other  fences  are  not  needed  except  under  the  conditions 
mentioned  on  a  previous  page.  They  are  a  great  source  of 
expense  to  build  and  keep  in  repair,  and  in  many  sections 
of  the  country  are  being  removed  from  the  roadsides  and 
along  cultivated  fields.  Where  the  land  is  valuable,  this  is 
an  important  item,  as  considerable  areas  are  made  available 
for  cultivation,  besides  greatly  improving  the  roadsides  and 
reducing  the  number  of  insects  and  vermin  that  neglected 
roadsides  harbor.  If  a  fence  is  decided  to  be  necessary 
along  the  roadway  or  near  dwellings  it  should  be  made  as 
inconspicuous  as  possible.  A  woven-wire  fence  on  gas-pipe 
or  steel  posts  painted  green  will  be  the  least  conspicuous 
from  all  points  of  view  and  in  the  end  not  more  expensive. 


CHAPTER  IX 
PARKS,  PUBLIC   SQUARES,   SCHOOL-YARDS,  ETC. 

THE  limits  of  this  work  will  allow  of  very  little  discus- 
sion of  the  above  lines  of  ornamental  landscape-work,  but 
it  is  a  subject  that  is  attracting  so  much  attention  and  so 
much  progress  is  being  made  in  this  kind  of  work  that  some 
of  the  principles  involved  will  be  briefly  touched  upon. 

Nearly  all  of  the  parks  connected  with  large  towns  and 
cities  are  under  the  direction  and  management  of  skilled 
engineers  and  landscape  artists,  and  little  that  can  be  pre- 
sented within  the  limits  of  this  volume  will  be  of  value  to 
them,  but  in  many  towns  and  cities  we  find  so  much  imper- 
fect work,  and  so  much  of  a  tendency  to  attempt  more 
than  the  available  funds  will  warrant  or  more  than  the 
managers  can  master,  that  we  cannot  but  offer  the  sugges- 
tion that  if  less  were  attempted  and  the  more  natural  fea- 
tures were  developed  and  improved  instead  of  trying  to 
ape  the  larger  parks  which  are  far  beyond  them,  there 
would  be  less  of  the  shoddy  work  done  and  more  that  is 
really  artistic  and  beautiful  because  of  its  perfect  natural- 
ness. 

The  well-kept  village  green  with  a  good  lawn  and  a  few 
large  well-grown  trees  in  perfect  condition  and  with  no  fence 
around  it  is  a  thing  of  real  beauty  easily  and  cheaply  cared 
for,  far  exceeding  many  squares  or  small  parks  fenced  in 
with  expensive  iron  or  wooden  fences,  entirely  unnecessary 
for  any  purpose  whatever,  or  elaborate  fountains,  and 
attempts  at  statuary. 

134 


Parks,  Public  Squares,  School-yards,  Etc.      135 


136 


Landscape  Gardening 


FIG.  76— Decorated  Well  Curb. 


Parks,  Public  Squares,  School-yards,  Etc.     137 

When  the  natural  features  of  any  park,  square,  common, 
or  village  green  have  been  made  as  perfect  as  possible,  and 
all  made  to  blend  and  harmonize  with  the  surroundings, 
then  it  is  time  enough  to  think  of  adding  artificial  objects. 
Let  every  tree,  shrub,  vine,  or  plant  be  made  as  perfect  as 
possible.  Let  every  rock  or  ledge  too  large  to  be  easily 
removed  be  decorated  with  suitable  natural  growth  of 
shrubs,  vines,  and  plants.  Let  any  body  of  water,  stream 
or  brooklet,  be  carefully  and  neatly  decorated,  and  there  is 
hardly  a  park,  square,  or  green  that  will  not  be  beautiful, 
that  will  not  possess  merit  that  will  please  any  one  with 
true  artistic  taste. 

No  work  of  decoration  however  small  should  be  under- 
taken unless  it  can  be  done  well,  for  half  work  is  often 
worse  than  no  work  at  all.  No  community  need  go  to 
a  great  expense  for  plans  or  advice  upon  the  subject  of 
oranmenting  public  grounds,  for  there  are  many  skilful 
men  connected  with  the  park  systems  of  neighboring  cities 
who  will  be  glad  to  help  on  the  cause  of  the  ornamentation 
of  public  grounds.  There  are  also  men  of  skill  and  experi- 
ence connected  with  the  colleges  and  experiment  stations  of 
each  State  to  whom  they  can  go  for  advice,  and  our  agri- 
cultural and  horticultural  press  abounds  in  illustrations  and 
suggestions  for  such  work.  What  is  most  needed  is  some 
patriotic  and  energetic  person  or  persons  with  a  real  love 
of  nature  and  the  beautiful  who  will  take  the  lead  and  work 
unceasingly  until  success  is  attained.  Such  individuals  are 
to  be  found  in  almost  every  community,  and  their  efforts 
should  be  seconded  and  supported  by  substantial  aid. 
The  old-time  "planting-bees"  should  be  revived,  or  the 
substitute  for  this,  Arbor-day,  when  the  planting  of  public 
grounds  by  the  united  effort  of  every  one  who  can  give  a 
few  hours  to  the  good  work,  would  soon  result  in  beautifying 
all  of  our  public  squares,  village  commons,  and  roadways. 


138 


Landscape  Gardening 


Parks,  Public  Squares,  School-yards,  Etc.     139 


Back-yard  Decoration 

The  "back  yards"  of  most  homes  may  be  decorated  so  as 
to  present  many  pleasing  pictures.  Trees,  vines,  shrubs  and 
grass  may  be  made  to  grow  with  great  vigor  if  properly  fed, 
and  most  back  yards  naturally  receive  much  plant  food 
material  from  the  wood  pile,  the  ash  pile  and  other  materials 


FIG.  78. — Combined  Useful  and  Ornamental.     Grape  Vine  above 
Golden  Glow  below. 

scattered  about  the  woodshed,  the  stable  doors  and  other 
outbuildings.  Where  poultry  is  kept  the  soil  is  often  too 
rich  in  nitrogenous  matter  and  may  need  improving  by  the 
addition  of  potash  and  phosphate  that  may  be  obtained 
from  wood  ashes  or  from  chemical  fertilizers.  Fig.  76  shows 
the  decoration  of  a  "  well  curb  "  which  may  be  used  either 
in  front  or  back  of  the  house.  Fig.  75  shows  a  variety 
of  shrubs  used  to  cover  the  lower  part  of  old  buildings. 


140 


Landscape  Gardening 


FIG.  79. — Combined  Useful  and  Ornamental.      Part  of  Fig,  78, 


Parks,  Public  Squares,  School-yards,  Etc.     141 

Vines  occupy  little  ground  space,  and  the  over-supply  of 
plant  food  in  the  soil  will  cause  a  very  vigorous  growth. 
Where  there  is  but  little  passing  over  the  walks,  turf  may 
be  made  hard  and  fine  by  frequent  cutting  and  rolling  and 
is  much  more  comfortable  and  easy  to  walk  upon  than 
concrete,  cement,  gravel,  etc.  The  grass  walk  is  much  more 
easily  cared  for  and  more  beautiful. 

School-yard  Decoration 

Much  has  been  written  in  the  past  few  years  on  the  sub- 
ject of  the  decoration  of  our  public-school  yards  or  play- 
grounds, and  some  progress  has  been  made  in  teaching 
the  average  village  schoolboy  that  there  are  some  things 
about  our  school  buildings  and  grounds  that  he  ought  to 
respect.  Very  little,  however,  can  be  done  in  this  direc- 
tion until  the  pupils  come  to  see  and  understand  the  effect 
of  beautiful  surroundings  and  acquire  something  of  a  love 
for  neatness  and  beauty,  both  inside  of  the  school-house 
and  on  the  play-grounds. 

This  may  be  accomplished  in  a  measure  if  nature-studies 
are  taught  to  our  younger  pupils  in  the  public  schools,  or 
better  still  if  at  home  they  learn  something  of  the  beauty 
and  wonders  of  the  natural  world  about  them,  and  of  the 
necessity  of  some  effort  and  restraint  on  their  part  in  obtain- 
ing and  preserving  the  things  of  comfort  and  beauty  that 
they  are  permitted  to  use. 

One  of  the  first  conditions  or  requirements  of  successful 
decoration  of  school-yards  is  an  abundance  of  land.  The 
quarter  or  half  acre  upon  which  school  buildings  are  usually 
located  is  by  far  too  small  to  provide  space  for  large  num- 
bers of  children  to  play  football,  baseball,  and  other  vigorous 
games  and  have  any  space  for  decoration,  and  it  is  useless 
to  attempt  anything  more  than  the  planting  of  a  few  large 


142 


Landscape  Gardening 


Parks,  Public  Squares,  School-yards,  Etc.     143 

trees  upon  such  grounds  that  will  withstand  the  attack  of 
the  crowd  in  their  rush  or  run  for  the  goal.  On  larger 
grounds  where  a  liberal  space  can  be  assigned  for  the  play- 
ground decoration  of  greater  or  less  extent  with  smaller 
trees,  shrubs,  or  plants  may  be  attempted  at  points  some 
distance  from  the  play-ground  and  in  the  angles  where  there 
is  no  necessity  or  excuse  for  the  pupils  crossing  the  grounds. 

It  is  always  advisable  to  have  the  play-grounds  and  the 
sanitary  accommodation  of  the  boys  and  girls  separated, 
especially  in  graded  schools  of  the  older  pupils,  which 
necessitates  a  larger  area  of  land  and  more  extensive  decora- 
tion, and  for  a  school  of  from  100  to  200  pupils  not  less 
than  i  to  2  acres  will  provide  adequate  space.  This  large 
extent  of  land  is  often  difficult  to  obtain,  but  it  will  be  found 
one  of  the  best  investments  that  can  be  made  for  our  school- 
children, especially  in  thickly  settled  villages,  and  where 
the  buildings  are  located  near  stores,  railroad  stations,  etc. 
If  the  sanitaries  are  placed  in  the  basement  of  the  school- 
building,  as  they  should  be  and  are  in  most  modern  build- 
ings, and  the  grounds  are  where  they  command  full  view 
from  school  doors  or  windows,  the  play-grounds  need  not 
be  separated  more  than  by  an  occasional  group  of  small 
shrubs  to  distinctly  mark  the  boundaries. 

Reading-rooms,  gymnasia,  and  other  sources  of  enter- 
tainment and  instruction  provided  for  the  pupils  of  our 
public  schools  will  be  found  to  aid  greatly  in  the  moral, 
physical,  and  intellectual  training  of  our  youth.  Neatness 
and  comfort  should  prevail  everywhere,  that  each  pupil  may 
feel  encouraged  in  every  effort  at  self-control  and  good  pur- 
poses. Figs.  81,  82,  and  83  illustrate  how  school-yards  of 
various  forms  may  be  divided  into  two  separate  yards  and 
the  arrangement  of  the  trees  and  shrubbery.  The  arrange- 
ment of  shade- trees  around  the  border  is  a  desirable  feature, 
whatever  the  size  or  form  of  the  grounds,  and  if  trees  of 


144 


Landscape  Gardening 


large  size  are  properly  planted  they  will  not  be  often  injured 
unless  it  is  done  wantonly,  and  with  very  little  care  are  sure 


Street 


Street 


FIG.  81.  FIG.  82. 

FIGS.  81-82. — Arrangement  of  School-yards. 


Street 


FIG.  83. — Arrangement  of  School-yards. 

to  give  very   satisfactory  results.     If   the  pupils   can   be 
interested  in  the  work  of  decoration  by  the  observance  of 


Parks,  Public  Squares,  School-yards,  Etc.     145 

Arbor  Day  and  field  days,  there  will  be  little  or  no  difficulty 
in  keeping  the  sentiment  of  the  school  up  where  care  will 
be  taken  that  no  injury  is  done  to  the  ornamental  material 
planted. 

If  all  the  pupils  of  a  school  can  be  encouraged  to  take  up 
the  study  of  the  science  of  botany,  and  beds  or  plots  of 
ground  provided  for  the  germination  of  seeds  or  growing 
of  interesting  plants,  it  will  be  a  source  of  instruction  and 
pleasure  and  lead  often  to  more  extended  decoration;  but 
where  only  one  class  takes  up  the  work,  the  feeling  of  class 
jealousy  is  often  such  that  work  of  this  kind  is  not  safe 
from  molestation. 

As  in  tree-planting  by  the  roadside  or  on  the  lawn,  the 
mistake  is  very  often  made  of  planting  too  closely  for  full 
and  perfect  growth.  They  should  not  be  planted  so  close 
to  the  building  as  to  shade  the  windows  and  cut  off  the 
light. 

No  nuisance  or  objectionable  views  should  be  permitted 
near  the  school-house,  and  if  distant  views  of  beauty  and 
interest  can  be  preserved  and  unpleasant  features  shut  out 
in  the  arrangement  of  the  trees  and  shrubs,  as  they  often 
can  be,  it  should  be  done.  The  more  beautiful  and  attrac- 
tive features  that  can  be  brought  together  about  our  school- 
houses  and  grounds  the  more  easily  will  the  pupils  be  gov- 
erned, and  the  greater  will  be  their  progress  in  everything 
that  makes  for  good  citizenship  and  upright,  honorable  lives. 

Cemetery  Decoration 
i 

The  decoration  of  the  resting-places  of  those  loved  ones 
who  have  gone  before  has  always  received  much  attention, 
and  special  grounds  in  every  village  and  hamlet  have  been 
set  aside  sacred  to  this  purpose. 

In  the  earlier  days  of  our  country  the  space  devoted  to 


146 


Landscape  Gardening 


FIG.  84.— A  Modern  Cemetery.    Weeping-willow  and  Aquatic  Plants. 


Parks,  Public  Squares,  School-yards,  Etc.     147 

this  use  was  very  limited  and  the  geometrical  style  of  orna- 
mentation employed.  The  grounds,  being  enclosed  by 
more  or  less  pretentious  fence  and  the  trees  and  shrubs  ar- 
ranged in  a  stiff,  formal  manner,  often  presented  the  most 
gloomy  and  uninviting  features  possible,  instead  of  that 
quiet  beauty  and  rest  that  we  love  to  think  of  as  the  most 
appropriate  resting-place  for  the  bodies  of  our  loved  ones. 

Within  the  past  twenty-five  or  thirty  years,  however,  great 
progress  has  been  made  in  beautifying  these  grounds,  and 
to-day  we  have  some  of  the  most  beautiful  examples  of 
natural  landscape  or  ornamental  gardening  connected  with 
our  park  cemeteries  to  be  found  anywhere  in  the  world. 

In  the  selection  of  the  location  for  cemeteries  naturally 
beautiful  grounds,  with  more  or  less  seclusion  and  quiet, 
away  from  the  hurry  and  bustle  of  the  village  or  city,  and 
with  a  dry,  rather  light,  porous  soil,  are  most  desirable. 

The  more  natural  features  of  beauty  that  can  be  found 
the  more  easily  and  cheaply  beautiful  and  finished  work  can 
be  done. 

All  such  natural  features  should  be  preserved  as  far  as 
possible,  and  no  attempt  be  made  to  bring  naturally  rounded 
slope  to  the  level.  In  case  of  very  abrupt  embankments 
some  grading  down  must  be  done,  but  often  by  introducing 
large  rocks  and  boulders  into  the  face  of  the  embankment 
the  appearance  of  naturally  projecting  ledges  or  boulders 
may  be  produced,  that  will  be  far  more  beautiful  than  any 
rounded  slope  can  possibly  be  made. 

In  most  cemeteries  the  main  source  of  income  is  from 
the  sale  of  lots,  and  the  great  danger  to  be  feared  is  that, 
in  the  desire  to  secure  a  large  number  of  lots,  the  orna- 
mental features  will  suffer,  and  too  many  lots  with  regular 
sides  or  too  many  geometrical  walks  will  be  produced. 

Economy  of  space  may  perhaps  be  obtained  by  the 
arrangement  of  the  ground  into  squares,  but  the  lots  with 


148  Landscape  Gardening 

curved  borders  are  susceptible  of  greater  beauty  in  ornamen- 
tation. There  is  much  greater  ease  and  comfort  in  getting 
around  by  means  of  gracefully  curved  walks,  and  by  the 
blending  of  all  of  the  ornamentation  into  one  system  and 
under  one  management  that  the  whole  may  be  made  to  reach 
much  greater  beauty  than  if  each  lot  were  ornamented 
separately.  The  care  and  ornamentation  of  cemeteries 
should  be  under  one  management,  and  with  authority  vested 
by  the  condition  of  the  sale  of  the  lots  to  compel  each  owner 
to  keep  his  lot  in  a  neat  and  orderly  condition,  or  to  have 
it  done  at  his  expense  by  the  managers. 

All  the  planting  must  be  done  within  certain  limits  and 
rules  be  made  and  carried  out  that  no  one  shall  plant  any 
tree,  shrub,  or  vine  that  shall  in  any  way  mar  the  beauty 
of  the  whole. 

Under  the  conditions  of  a  great  variety  of  soil  and  a 
large  number  of  people  of  different  ideas  of  the  beauty 
of  the  many  kinds  of  trees  and  other  plants  that  can  be 
used  with  success  in  cemeteries,  there  is  much  danger  of 
unsuitable  trees  being  planted,  and  the  superintendent  must 
be  a  man  of  large  experience  as  to  what  will  give  the  best 
satisfaction  under  varying  conditions  and  who  has  tact  for 
dealing  with  the  patrons  of  the  grounds. 

A  boundary  fence  is  often  necessary,  but  not  so  often  as 
is  generally  supposed,  for  almost  everywhere,  except  in  the 
extreme  country  districts,  animals  are  obliged  by  law  to  be 
kept  within  proper  enclosure,  and  when  driven  along  the 
roadway  to  be  kept  as  far  as  possible  within  the  road  limits, 
and  the  grounds  can  be  made  more  beautiful  if  the  fence 
is  dispensed  with  altogether.  If  one  must  be  put  up  let  it 
be  a  simple  gas-pipe,  or  steel  posts  and  wire  fence  painted 
green.  Near  large  cities,  where  more  or  less  injury  is  done 
by  irresponsible  or  vicious  people,  the  fence  becomes  a 
necessary  protection. 


Parks,  Public  Squares,  School-yards,  Etc.     149 

No  fences,  kedges  around  the  lots,  or  other  unnatural 
obstruction  to  the  view  of  the  whole  grounds  should  be 
allowed,  but  in  the  arrangement  of  the  general  ornamental 
features  secluded  and  quiet  beauty  should  predominate. 

The  more  distinctly  graceful  and  ornamental  trees  and 
shrubs  should  be  used  in  preference  to  the  sturdy  and  grand 
trees,  unless  the  extent  of  the  grounds  is  very  great,  when 
the  broad-spreading  oak,  chestnut,  hemlock,  and  white  pine 
may  be  used. 

For  directions  for  the  care  of  the  ornamental  features  of 
the  cemetery,  i.e.,  the  lawn,  walks,  and  drives,  trees,  shrubs, 
and  plants,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  suggestions  and 
rules  laid  down  in  Chapters  III  to  VI. 

An  abundance  of  .water  is  an  absolute  necessity  for  suc- 
cess in  cemetery  decoration,  and  service-pipes  with  faucets 
at  frequent  intervals  should  be  provided  if  a  supply  of 
running  water  can  be  obtained,  for  the  best  growth  of  lawn, 
shrubs,  or  plants  cannot  be  cbtained,  especially  in  time  of 
drouth,  without  its  frequent  use.  If  the  supply  of  water 
is  sufficient,  sprinklers  should  be  kept  playing  on  some  part 
of  the  lawns  all  the  time  during  extreme  dry  weather.  The 
quiet  lakelet,  the  rippling  brook,  and  the  fountain  are 
features  that  are  especially  appropriate  for  cemetery  decora- 
tion. 

Renovating  Old  Cemeteries 

Many  of  the  old  cemeteries  of  the  country  are  of  especial 
historic  interest,  as  they  often  contain  the  only  records  to 
be  found  of  much  of  our  history,  written  on  the  tombstones 
found  therein,  and  every  effort  should  be  made  to  save  them 
from  oblivion  and  make  them  interesting  features  of  our  sur- 
roundings. 

Not  having  been  laid  out  in  any  formal  style  with  walks, 
drives,  etc.,  most  of  the  old  cemeteries  present  very  favorable 


150 


Landscape  Gardening 


conditions  for  renovation  to  at  least  neatness  and  some  show 
of  quiet  beauty.  There  are  generally  no  boundary-stones 
to  mark  each  lot,  and  the  best  and  simplest  way  to  produce 
beautiful  results  is  to  level  down  all  mounds  and  projections 


FIG.  85. — Typical  City  Street  without  Trees. 
(From  the  Tree-planting  Association  of  New  York  City.) 

with  sharp  spades,  fill  up  all  depressions  with  good  soil,  and 
make  the  surface  a  smooth  and  green  lawn.  After  levelling 
and  smoothing  up  the  surface  a  dressing  of  fine  rich  com- 
post or  fertilizer  should  be  given  and  an  abundance  of  fine 


Parks,  Public  Squares,  School-yards,  Etc.     151 

lawn  grass-seed  be  sown  and  raked  in.  The  headstones 
should  then  be  placed  in  position,  cleaning,  repairing,  and 
relettering  such  as  are  becoming  obscure.  The  moss  and 
lichens  which  indicate  their  age,  however,  should  not  be 


Fig.  86.— A  City  Street  well  Decorated  with  Trees. 

destroyed  if  it  can  be  avoided.  The  trees,  shrubs,  and 
plants  found  growing  in  such  cemeteries  are  often  in  a  sad 
state  of  neglect  and  need  much  care  and  attention.  They 
should  be  treated  in  accordance  with  the  methods  described 


152  Landscape  Gardening 

in  Chapter  VII  on  renovating  old  places,  to  which  the 
reader  is  referred  for  suggestions.  A  few  large  spreading 
trees  well  cared  for  add  much  to  the  impressiveness  of  the 
scene,  while  large  numbers  of  imperfectly  grown  specimens 
only  invite  neglect,  and  offer  no  attractions  to  those  who 
wish  to  stroll  about  the  resting-place  of  their  ancestors  or 
study  the  history  of  past  generations. 

Many  of  these  old  cemeteries  are  located  in  the  very  heart 
of  thriving,  hustling  cities  or  villages,  and  while  there  are 
many  sacred  associations  connected  with  the  places,  the 
noise  and  bustle  of  the  town  together  with  the  inappropri- 
ateness  of  the  location  make  it  desirable  and  proper  that 
they  should  be  removed  to  other  locations  with  more  quiet 
and  peaceful  surroundings. 

In  this  work  every  feature  of  the  old  grounds  should  be 
preserved  as  far  as  possible.  The  headstones  should  be  set 
carefully  in  the  same  relative  position  in  which  they  stood 
before  being  moved,  and  when  so  much  is  to  be  gained  by 
removal  no  sensible  person  should  object  to  what  is  a  step 
in  the  direction  of  true  honor  and  respect  for  our  beloved 
dead. 

Any  place  that  is  beautiful,  quiet,  and  peaceful  will  have 
its  influence  on  our  hearts  for  good,  and  especially  when  in 
connection  with  so  sacred  a  place,  but  the  noisy  street  for- 
bids any  such  influence,  and  the  sooner  these  old  cemeteries 
are  moved  to  better  surroundings  and  kept  in  proper  con- 
dition the  better,  and  the  friends  of*  the  loved  dead  should 
rejoice  that  such  conditions  can  be  provided, 


CHAPTER  X 


DESCRIPTION    OF   TREES 

IN  this  and  Chapters  XI  to  XIV,  inclusive,  are  given 
brief  descriptions  of  the  most  valuable  and  beautiful  trees, 
shrubs,  and  plants,  and  an  effort  will  be  made  to  point  out 
in  as  few  words  as  possible  any  peculiarities  they  possess 
or  special  treatment  they  may  require  for  their  most  suc- 
cessful growth. 

For  convenience  of  reference  they  are  arranged  in  the 
following  groups: 

Street-  or  avenue-trees. 

Upright  or  round-headed  lawn-trees. 
Chapter       X  1  Weeping  trees. 

Trees  with  fine  or  cut  foliage. 

Trees  with  colored  foliage. 
Chapter     XI    Evergreen  trees. 

I  Ornamental  shrubs. 
Chapter   XII  \  Climbing  vines. 

I  Hedge-plants. 
Chapter  XIII    Hardy  herbaceous  plants. 

Ornamental  grasses. 

Bedding-plants. 
Chapter  XIV  •  Subtropical  plants. 

Aquatic  plants. 

Hardy  ferns. 

153 


154 


Landscape  Gardening 


FIG,  87. — Avenue  of  Elms, 


Description  of  Trees  155 

Street-  or  Avenue-trees  * 

Nothing  adds  so  much  to  the  beauty  and  comfort  of  our 
streets  and  roadways,  especially  in  the  summer,  as  well- 
grown  trees  on  both  sides,  and  we  find  many  towns  and 
cities  throughout  our  country  noted  for  the  large  number 
and  beauty  of  their  street- trees.  City  streets  are  difficult 
to  decorate,  yet  by  constant  care  trees  may  be  made  to 
grow  as  is  shown  in  Fig.  86,  while  without  the  results  are 
as  in  Fig.  85. 

The  following  list  includes  those  best  suited  for  this  pur- 
pose: 

Elm,  fringecWace  form.  Ash,  White. 

Elm,  American  vase-shaped.  Oak,  Red. 

Elm,  Slippery,  fringed.  Oak;/Scarlet. 

Elm,  European,  urn-shaped.  Chestnut,  American. 

Maple,  Sugar.  Hickory,  White. 

Maple,  Silver.  Tulip-tree. 

Walnut,  Black.  Cucumber  Magnolia. 

American  or  White  Elm  (Ulmus  americand),  Fig.  88. 
— This  is  unquestionably  the  finest  street  or  avenue  shade- 

*  The  appended  list  of  trees  is  offered  by  the  Tree-planting  Asso- 
ciation of  New  York  City  as  being  the  most  suitable  ,to .  select  from  for 
growth  in  that  city: 

Norway  Maple.  Tulip  Tree  or  Tulip  Poplar. 

Sugar  Maple.  Balsam  Poplar. 

Silver  Maple.  Lombardy  .Poplar. 

Carolina -Poplar  or'  Cotton  wood. 
American  White  Elm. 

Scotch  Elm.  American  Linden  (or  Basswood). 

Pin  Oak.  Lime  (or  European  Linden). 

Red  Oak.  Nettle- tree  (Hackberry). 

American  White  Ash.  Oriental  Plane-tree. 

Sweet  Gum  (or  Liquidambar). 

American  Sweet  Chestnut.  American    Plane-tree    (Buttonwood 

Common  Horse-chestnut.  or  Sycamore). 

Hardy  Catalpa. 

If  the  Ailanthus  is  desired  for  planting,  use  only  pistillate  trees,  as 
they  give  no  unpleasant  odor. 


156 


Landscape  Gardening 


tree  in  the  world.  Its  high  arching  branches  spreading 
gracefully  over  the  lawn,  drive,  walk,  or  roadway  give  an 
abundant  shade,  and  yet  a  chance  for  air  to  circulate  freely 


FIG.  88.— A  Perfect  Elm. 


under  its  branches.  It  varies  greatly  in  form,  from  the 
broad  round  head,  a  perfect  elm,  Fig.  88,  to  the  very 
upright  and  strict  fringed  vase  form,  Fig.  89,  etc.,  all  of 


Description  of  Trees 


157 


them,  however,  assuming  more  or  less  the  graceful  arching 
growth. 

It  grows  to  the  greatest  perfection  in  a  deep,  moist, 
alluvial  soil  and  is  very  easily  transplanted.  It  is  often 
taken  from  the  swamp  or  pasture  and  transplanted  to  the 
open  lawn  or  roadside  with  success,  though  nursery-grown 


FIG.  89. — Fringed  Vase  Form  Am.  Elm.     (Green.) 

trees  if  tall  and  clean  with  the  branches  10  to  12  feet  from 
the  ground  are  more  satisfactory. 

It  is  rather  difficult  to  know  what  special  form  a  young 
tree  may  take,  but  the  seeds  from  trees  of  specific  form  are 
likely  to  take  the  forms  of  their  parents.  When  young  trees 
are  3  to  4  inches  in  diameter  we  can  judge,  by  careful  study, 
pretty  nearly  what  form  they  will  take  as  they  reach  maturity. 

In  training  a  young  tree  a  forked  growth  should  be  avoided, 


158  Landscape  Gardening 

Figs.  22  and  23,  and  a  single  leading  shoot  encouraged  with 
lateral  branches  established  at  intervals  on  opposite  sides  of 
the  main  trunk,  as  in  Fig.  20.  If  allowed  to  make  the  forked 
growth,  they  are  certain  sooner  or  later  to  be  split  down  by 
the  weight  of  snow  or  force  of  storms.  This  should  receive 
especial  attention  with  trees  taken  from  the  woods  or 


FIG.  90. — Sugar  Maple.    A.  saccharum.    (Green.) 

rcadsides,  and  cut  back  to  the  "bean-pole"  condition,  as  is 
often  practised,  and  all  of  the  lateral  shoots  be  kept  headed 
back  until  the  leader  has  full  control,  as  in  Fig.  20.  To 
succeed  in  growing  shrubs,  bedding  plants,  bulbs,  etc.,  under 
the  branches  or  in  the  shade  of  a  large  elm,  the  soil  should 
be  dug  out  with  a  sharp  spade,  taking  out  all  of  the  fine 
roots  for  a  foot  or  more  in  depth  and  filling  in  with  turfy  soil. 
In  case  of  a  very  dry  season,  apply  water  enough  to  wet 


Description  of  Trees 


159 


down  below  the  soil  filled  in.     This  treatment  must  be 
repeated  each  season  to  be  a  continued  success. 

Slippery-elm  (Ulmus  fulva). — This  species  is  of  a  broader 


FIG.  91. — Silver  Maple  (Acer  saccharinum) .    (Green.) 

growth  with  larger  leaves,  but  not  quite  the  graceful  form 
of  the  white  elm,  nor  is  it  quite  so  large,  but  a  valuable 
tree  under  some  conditions. 

European  Elm  (Ulmus  campestris). — More  upright  and 


160  Landscape  Gardening 

compact  than  the  American  species,  and  valuable  where  a  less 
spreading  tree  is  desired.  AH  of  the  elms  are  subject  to  the 
attack  of  the  elm  leaf-beetle,  canker-worm,  the  elm-scale, 
and  other  insects,  and  need  close  attention  to  prevent  their 
being  seriously  injured.  See  chapter  on  insects,  page  261. 

Sugar-maple  (Acer  saccharum) ,  (Fig.  90). — Perhaps  no 
tree  is  so  largely  planted  for  streets  and  roadways  as 
this,  and  it  has  many  valuable  qualities.  It  is  clean,  up- 
right, easily  transplanted,  and  grows  rapidly,  but  is  some- 
what subject  to  disease  and  the  attack  of  the  maple-tree 
borer,  maple-louse,  and  other  insects  and  fungous  pests 
which  have  often  destroyed  large  trees  and  broken  into 
many  a  fine  avenue  of  stately  growth. 

Silver  Maple  (A.  saccharinum),  Fig.  91. — This  rapidly 
growing  tree  is  being  largely  planted  in  many  places.  It 
is  a  clean  tree  of  great  beauty,  and  thus  far  has  shown  no 
tendency  to  disease  or  the  attack  of  insects.  The  tendency 
it  has  of  forming  several  main  forked  branches  must  be 
overcome  by  heading  in  all  but  the  central  leading  branch, 
until  the  tree  has  become  well  established,  as  with  the  elms, 
shown  in  Fig.  26.  This  species  thrives  on  all  kinds  of  soil, 
but  makes  the  best  growth  in  a  rather  moist,  deep  soil. 

White  Ash  (Fraxinus  americana). — In  growth  this 
tree  is  very  much  like  the  sugar-maple  with  a  little  less  of 
the  conical  form.  The  foliage  is  of  a  dark,  rich  color  and 
free  from  insects  and  fungous  pests.  It  is  rather  easily 
broken  down  by  ice  and  wind-storms,  and  requires  a  heavy 
soil  for  its  best  development. 

Red  Oak  (Quercus  rubra). — Of  the  oaks  this  and  the 
next  species  are  the  best  for  street  decoration,  but  they  can 
be  used  along  narrow  roadways  by  training  only  the  branches 
high.  This  is  best  done  by  keeping  the  lower  branches 
clipped  in,  as  in  Fig.  910,  and  when  strong  main  branches 
have  been  formed  high  enough  to  be  above  all  danger 


Description  of  Trees 


161 


of  striking  passing  teams  the  lateral  ones  may  be  cut  away 
entirely. 

Scarlet  Oak  (Quercus  coccinea). — Somewhat  like  the 
red  oak  in  habit  of  growth,  but  with  thinner  and  more 
deeply-lobed  leaves  and  producing  more  brilliant  colors 
in  autumn.  The  oaks  are  rather  slow  and  heavy  in  growth, 
but  when  they  become  well  established  are  especially 

v 


FIG.  9 i<z. —  Red  Oak  Pruned  to  Increase  Height  of  Main  Branches. 

desirable  on  account  of  their  long  life,  sturdiness,  and 
strength.  They  are  difficult  to  transplant  and  can  be 
moved  with  certainty  of  success  only  by  frequent  transplant- 
ing in  the  nursery.  To  prepare  an  oak  standing  in  the  field  or 
roadside  for  successful  transplanting,  a  trench  10  inches  to 
i  foot  wide  must  be  dug  about  the  tree  from  2  to  4  feet  from 
the  trunk,  according  to  size,  and  at  least  2  feet  deep.  This 
trench  should  be  filled  with  good  soil  to  encourage  the 
development  of  fine  fibrous  roots.  In  two  years'  time,  if 


162  Landscape  Gardening 

the  work  has  been  well  done,  enough  fibrous  roots  will  be 
formed  in  this  soil  to  render  transplanting  successful. 

American  Chestnut  (Castanea  dentata). — This  tree  grows 
to  the  greatest  perfection  in  many  sections  of  the  United 
States,  and  in  soils  where  the  elm,  maple,  ash,  and  oak 
do  not  thrive.  It  is  free  from  disease  *  and  the  attack 
of  insects,  rapid  in  growth,  with  a  beautiful  dark  green 
foliage,  and  its  abundant  flowers  in  July  make  it  an  attrac- 
tive feature  of  the  landscape.  Its  fruit,  too,  is  valuable 
and  might  be  made  a  source  of  some  profit  if  properly 
managed.  Like  the  oak,  it  is  difficult  to  transplant,  and 
it  has  the  same  tendency  to  branch  low  when  planted 
in  full  exposure,  but  these  objections  can  be  remedied  in  the 
same  manner  as  with  the  oak,  and  its  broad-spreading 
habit  with  proper  treatment  makes  it  a  close  rival  of  the 
American  elm. 

White  Hickory  or  Shagbark  (Gary a  ovata). — On  very 
heavy  soils  this  tree  may  become  a  very  good  street-tree,  but 
on  light  land  it  would  be  of  no  value.  Its  habit  of  growth 
is  tall  and  upright.  It  has  bright  green  foliage,  changing  to  a 
bright  golden  color  in  the  autumn,  and  is  generally  free  from 
insect  or  fungous  attack.  It  is  even  more  difficult  to  trans- 
plant than  the  oak  or  chestnut,  but  it  may  be  started  from 
seed  where  it  is  to  grow  or  be  prepared  for  transplanting  in 
the  nursery  or  fields,  as  is  the  oak  or  chestnut. 

Black  Walnut  (Juglans  nigra). — No  grander  tree  can 
be  found  among  those  native  of  the  United  States  than  the 

*  Since  this  was  written  the  chestnut  bark  disease  has  appeared  in 
many  sections  of  the  country,  and  those  who  have  made  the  most  care- 
ful study  of  it  are  fearful  that  it  may  spread  so  as  to  do  serious  injury. 
This  disease  attacks  the  bark  of  the  trunks,  main  branches  or  small 
twigs,  stopping  growth  and  killing  all  parts  outside  of  that  attacked. 
The  foresters  of  the  States  where  the  chestnut  is  abundant  are  watching 
the  development  of  the  disease  and  have  issued  bulletins  as  to  its  prog- 
ress and  the  best  remedies.  Send  to  your  experiment  station  or  to  the 
Department  of  Agriculture  at  Washington. 


Description  of  Trees  163 

black  walnut  as  occasionally  seen  in  the  Eastern  States  and 
very  frequently  in  the  West,  but  it  is  not  often  seen  planted 
in  avenues.  It  is  difficult  to  transplant  and  requires  a 
rather  heavy  soil  for  its  best  growth,  but  if  properly  treated, 
i.e.,  like  the  oak  and  chestnut,  will  make  very  beautiful 
street-trees.  It  is  rather  slow  in  growth  while  young,  and 
requires  a  little  care  to  prevent  the  formation  of  low-forked 
main  branches.  It  is  used  as  a  stock  upon  which  to  graft 
the  English  or  Persian  Walnut. 

The  English  or  Persian  Walnut  (Juglam  regia). — We 
all  know  the  English,  or  Persian  Walnut  more  properly,  of 
our  markets,  and  it  is  interesting  to  know  that  the  tree  is 
hardy  as  far  north  as  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  and  produces  abun- 
dant crops  of  fruit.  The  trees  in  this  latitude,  however,  are 
grown  from  seed  and  the  nuts  vary  somewhat  in  size  and 
quality,  but  compare  well  with  those  shipped  to  northern 
markets  from  more  southern  sections  of  the  Unitepl  States. 
The  trees  are  upright,  round-headed,  much  like  the  black 
walnut,  and  are  worthy  a  place  on  the  la  wn  or  hi  any  road- 
side avenue. 

Tulip-tree  (Liriodendron  tulipifera). — This  is  one  of 
our  most  beautiful  trees,  and  if  it  could  be  more  easily 
transplanted  would  be  more  largely  used  as  a  street-  or 
avenue-tree  than  it  now  is.  The  fibrous  roots  of  this  tree 
are  very  succulent  and  easily  injured  by  extreme  pressure, 
or  by  exposure  to  drying  winds  or  sun,  and  the  greatest 
care  must  be  exercised  in  transplanting  it.  If  transplanted 
frequently  in  the  nursery,  it  may  be  safely  moved  until  it 
reaches  the  growth  of  3  or  4  inches  in  diameter;  otherwise 
only  young  trees  should  be  used,  and  more  careful  protec- 
tion be  given  them  against  injury  than  would  be  required 
for  larger  trees  of  other  species. 

Cucumber  Magnolia  (M.  acuminata). — This  beautiful 
native  tree  thrives  as  far  north  as  New  Hampshire,  but  is, 


164  Landscape  Gardening 

like  the  tulip  tree,  difficult  to  transplant.  It  is  a  little  more 
spreading  than  the  tulip  tree,  beautiful  in  bloom,  and  also 
in  fruit. 

Many  other  species  of  trees  might  be  used  for  street  or 
avenue  decoration  under  some  conditions,  but  the  above  list 
includes  the  best  for  general  purposes.  Scarcely  one-tenth 
of  our  roadways,  and  probably  much  less,  are  adorned  with 
ornamental  trees;  even  in  many  of  the  thriving  towns  and 
cities  little  attention  is  given  to  this  matter,  and  the  author 
would  urge  the  use  of  more  variety  of  species  and  less  of 
the  stereotyped  kinds,  like  the  elm  and  maple. 

Upright  or  Round-headed  Trees 

The  following  list,  while  not  including  all  the  trees  desir- 
able under  varying  conditions,  yet  contains  the  greater 
number  of  the  most  beautiful  and  especially  those  that  will 
most  certainly  thrive  under  ordinary  care.  Many  of  the 
very  new  or  rare  varieties  are  not  included  for  the  reason 
that  little  is  known  of  their  real  value,  and  it  is  almost  the 
universal  experience  that  a  large  percentage  of  the  new 
introductions  fail  to  realize  the  promise  of  their  early  growth, 
soon  developing  some  weakness,  disease,  or  other  undesirable 
features,  and  their  value  cannot  be  determined  until  they 
have  been  tested  for  many  years  under  various  conditions 
of  soil  and  exposure. 

LIST   OF   UPRIGHT   OR   ROUND-HEADED   TREES 

Maple,  English.  Chestnut,  Horse. 

Norway.  "    Red-flowered. 

Sycamore.  Shad-bush, 

Schwerdler's.  Birch,  European  White. 
Reitenbach's.  ' '       Sweet  or  Cherry. 

Red.  "       American  White  or  Gray. 

Tartarian.  Catalpa. 

"       Japanese.  Cherry,  Flowering. 


Description  of  Trees 


165 


Red-bud 
Fringe-tree. 
Dogwood,  Flowering. 
Hawthorn,  English. 
Golden-chain. 
Beech,  American. 

' '     European. 
Ash,  European. 

"  Aucuba-leaved. 
Locust,  Honey. 
Coffee- tree.  Kentucky. 
China-tree. 
Plane-tree 
Poplar,  silver,  or  Abele. 

"      Belles'. 

"      Black  or  Italian. 
Peach  and  Plum,  Flowering. 
Apple,  Flowering. 

"     Chinese. 
Sweet  Gum. 
Magnolia,  Umbrella. 
' '         Cucumber. 
' '         Soulange's. 
* '         Swamp. 
Showy. 
Mulberry. 


Box-elder. 
Cork  Tree,  Chinese. 
Locust,  Yellow. 
Willow,  White, 
"       Golden. 
' '       Red-twigged. 
Basswood  or  Linden,  American. 
"       "         European. 

White-leaved. 
Mountain  Ash,  American. 
' '     European. 
"     Oak-leaved. 
Hop-tree. 
Oak,  White. 
Red. 
Scarlet. 
Swamp  White. 
Pin. 

English. 
Fern-leaved. 
Variegated. 
Purple-leaved. 
Pyramidal. 
Chestnut. 
Elm,  Scotch. 
Larch,  European. 


English  Maple  (Acer  campestris) . — A  slow-growing  maple 
forming  a  compact  small  tree,  with  corky  ridges  on  the  bark 
and  handsome  foliage. 

Norway  Maple  (A.  platanoides) ,  Fig.  92. — While  young 
this  tree  resembles  somewhat  the  sugar-maple,  but  as  it 
grows  older  it  takes  on  a  more  rounded,  massive  head.  The 
leaves  are  broad  and  thin,  palmately  lobed,  and  change  to 
a  light  golden  color  in  the  autumn.  Its  large  flowers  and 
broad-winged  fruit  are  also  ornamental.  It  is  easily  trans- 
planted and  thrives  in  ordinarily  good  soil.  This  tree  has 
proved  very  valuable  as  a  street-tree  in  cities  where  a  high- 
headed  tree  is  not  desired. 

Schwedler's  Maple  (A.  p.  var.  Schwedleri). — During 
the  spring  and  early  summer  the  young  leaves  of  this 


166 


Landscape  Gardening 


tree  are  beautifully  colored  with  purplish  crimson,  but 
they  soon  change  to  a  dark  bronze  green.  It  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  and  ornamental  of  the  maples  during 
this  early  growth. 

Reitenbach's  Maple  (A.  p.,  var.  Reitenbachii) . — This 
is  not  quite  so  beautifully  colored  in  the  spring  as  the  last, 
but  retains  its  color  later  in  the  season.  Also  very  valuable. 


FIG.  92. — Norway  Maple  (Acer  platanoides) .     (Green.) 

Sycamore  Maple  (A.  pseudo-plalanus) . — A  handsome 
broad-spreading  tree,  similar  in  form  to  the  last,  with  larger, 
thick,  dark  green  leaves.  It  is  rapid  in  growth  and  free 
from  the  attack  of  insects  and  fungous  pests.  It  is  rather 
heavy  and  coarse  in  growth  and  is  not  as  beautiful  as  either 
the  sugar  or  Norway  maple.  In  northern  New  England  this 
tree  has  not  proved  quite  hardy. 


Description  of  Trees  167 

Red  or  Scarlet  Maple  (A  rubrum). — Our  common 
swamp  or  red  maple,  found  growing  throughout  our  Eastern, 
Middle,  and  Western  States,  where  it  gives  the  most  brilliant 
coloring  to  the  landscape  by  its  bright  red  flowers  and  fruit 
in  the  spring  and  the  variously  colored  leaves  in  the  autumn. 
It  grows  best  in  rather  moist  locations,  is  easily  transplanted, 
and  free  from  disease. 

Silver  Maple  (A.  saccharinuni) . — See  Avenue-  or  Street- 
trees. 

Tartarian  Maple  (A.  tataricum). — A  small  tree  with 
small  cut  and  lobed  leaves,  somewhat  like  those  of  the  gray 
birch,  making  an  interesting  and  beautiful  tree  when  in 
flower  or  in  fruit  and  again  by  its  brilliant  coloring  in  the 
autumn. 

Japanese  Maples  (A.  palmatum  and  japonicum). — 
These  are  small-growing  trees  possessing  a  great  variety 
of  forms  and  coloring  of  foliage.  The  more  beautiful  forms 
with  cut  leaves  and  beautiful  colors  are  very  difficult  to 
propagate  and  therefore  expensive,  but  in  deep  warm 
soil  a  little  sheltered  from  extreme  drying  winds  they  thrive 
well  and  make  most  beautiful  ornaments.  Where  trees  have 
reached  fruiting  size  many  beautiful  forms  may  be  grown 
from  seeds  which  generally  can  be  transplanted  more  suc- 
cessfully than  grafted  plants.  The  first-named  species  has 
produced  the  most  varying  forms,  some  of  which  have 
finely  cut  fern-like  leaves,  and  of  varying  colors  from  dark 
green  through  many  stages  of  variation  to  the  darkest  red 
or  purple.  Fig.  93. 

Among  the  best  of  these  are: 

1.  Red-leaved  Japanese  maple  (A.  p.,  var.  sanguineum). 

2.  Purple-leaved  Japanese  maple   (A.  p.,  var.  atropur- 

pureum) 

3.  Purple  cut-leaved  weeping  Japanese  maple  (A.  p., 

var.  dissectum  atropurpurum). 


168 


Landscape  Gardening 


i 

at 


Description  of  Trees  169 

Green   cut-leaved   weeping   Japanese   maple    (A.    p.,   var. 

pinnatifidum) . 
Rose- variegated  cut-leaved  weeping  Japanese  maple  (A.  p., 

var.  dissectum  roseo-pictis) . 
Rose-margined  Japanese   maple    (A.    p.,   var.   roseo-margi- 

natum). 

Plain-leaved  Japanese  maple  (A.  p.}. 
Plain-leaved  Japanese  maple  (A.  p.,  var.  Jaconita}. 
Golden-leaved  Japanese  maple  (^4 .  japonicum,  var.  aureum). 
Crisped-leaved  Japanese  maple  (A.  japonicum,  var.  crispum). 

Horse-chestnut  (JEsculus  Hippocastanum). — This  tree 
possesses  much  beauty  in  its  compact  regular  form  and  dark 
green  foliage,  but  it  is  especially  beautiful  when  in  blossom 
with  its  large,  compact  panicles  of  white  and  rose-colored 
flowers.  It  is  easily  grown  from  seed,  readily  transplanted, 
hardy,  and  succeeds  on  a  variety  of  soils. 

Red-flowered  Horse-chestnut  (M.  carnea). — Although 
not  quite  so  conspicuous  a  tree  as  the  last,  it  has  more  of 
the  quiet  beauty,  with  its  dark  green  foliage  and  light  red 
flowers. 

Service-berry  or  Shadbush  (Amelanchier  canadensis). 
— A  native  tree  of  small  size  that  produces  the  most  beauti- 
ful masses  of  pure  white  flowers  very  early  in  the  spring 
before  any  but  the  fruit-trees  are  in  bloom.  It  is  perfectly 
hardy,  but  is  liable  to  be  attacked  by  the  apple-borer  and 
must  have  frequent  attention  to  prevent  injury  by  this 
insect.  It  succeeds  best  in  rather  sheltered  locations, 
and  " though  a  native"  deserves  much  more  frequent  use. 

Canoe  Birch  (Betula  papyri/era). — There  is  scarcely  a 
more  beautiful  or  easily  grown  tree  than  the  canoe-birch. 
It  succeeds  in  nearly  all  kinds  of  soil  and  is  transplanted 
without  much  difficulty  if  trees  of  too  large  size  are  not 
attempted,  those  of  i  to  i|  inches  in  diameter  being  the 
best.  It  is  especially  beautiful  when  planted  among  ever- 


170  Landscape  Gardening 

greens  or  in  contrast  with  trees  and  shrubs  with  bright 
yellow  or  red  shoots  for  winter  effect. 

European  White  Birch  (Betula  alba). — Somewhat  similar 
to  canoe-birch,  with  smaller  foliage  and  perhaps  a  little 
more  graceful  outline.  A  desirable  tree,  while  young,  though 
the  cut-leaved  weeping  form  is  so  much  superior  that  the 
common  type  is  not  often  planted.  All  of  the  forms  of  the 
European  birch  are  short-lived,  a  great  many  specimens 
dying  when  they  reach  the  age  of  25  to  30  years. 

Sweet  or  Cherry  Birch  (B.  lento). — Few  of  our  native 
trees  are  more  regular  or  graceful  in  outline  than  this  species 
when  grown  in  full  exposure,  but  it  being  a  common  native 
tree  and  producing  no  conspicuous  flowers  it  has  not  received 
the  attention  it  deserves.  Trees  from  the  woods  or  road- 
side are  difficult  to  transplant,  but  when  grown  in  the  nursery 
are  easily  transplanted.  They  succeed  best  in  a  rather  moist 
soil. 

American  White  or  Gray  Birch  (B.  populifolia). — A 
very  pretty  small  tree  when  grown  with  a  single  trunk  or  in 
the  group  or  clumps  it  so  naturally  makes.  It  is  easily  trans- 
planted while  small  and  grows  well  in  the  poorest  kinds  of 
soil.  In  transplanting  large  trees,  growing  in  clumps,  i.e., 
from  i  to  3  inches  in  diameter,  the  trunk  should  be  cut  down 
to  the  ground  and  one  or  more  shoots  be  allowed  to  grow  as 
desired.  This  treatment  gives  a  vigorous  straight  growth 
that  may  be  put  into  any  shape  desired,  and  the  growth  is 
very  rapid. 

American  Chestnut  (Castanea  Am.  dentatd). — If  allowed 
to  grow  with  full  exposure,  this  will  make  a  very  broad 
round-headed  tree,  and  is  very  beautiful  upon  large  grounds. 
Description  and  treatment  for  transplanting  were  given 
under  Avenue-  or  Street-trees.  The  fruit  of  the  Spanish 
and  Japanese  varieties  is  much  larger,  but  not  of  as  good 
quality  as  that  of  the  American,  and  the  trees  are  less 


Description  of  Trees 


171 


vigorous.  Improved  varieties  of  our  native  chestnut 
with  fruit  of  large  size  are  now  offered  and  established  trees 
are  sometimes  grafted  with  them  successfully.  The  small 


FIG.  94. — Western  Catalpa  (Catalpa  speciosa). 

and  vigorous  stocks  are  more  certain  of  success  in  grafting 
than  large  and  less  vigorous  ones. 

Catalpa    (Catalpa  speciosa),  Fig.   94. — A  beautiful  tree 


172 


Landscape  Gardening 


of  subtropical  effect,  producing  very  large  heart-shaped 
leaves  and  large  open  panicles  of  flowers  after  nearly  all  othei 
trees  have  bloomed.  It  is  not  quite  hardy  at  the  North  and 
the  trees  should  not  be  transplanted  to  full  exposure  of  the 
lawn  until  they  reach  2  to  3  inches  in  diameter  to  be  most 
successful. 
Flowering  Cherries  (Prunus,  sp.).~ Several  of  the 


FIG.  95. — Flowering  Dogwood  or  Cornel  (Cotnus  Florida). 

flowering  cherries  are  offered  by  nurserymen.  They  are 
very  beautiful  for  a  few  days  when  in  bloom,  but  the  flowers 
soon  fall  off  and  the  show  is  short-lived.  If  planted  in  a 
light  soil  and  grown  slowly,  they  will  live  in  a  fairly  good 
condition  much  longer  than  in  a  heavy  or  very  rich  soil. 
As  they  grow  rapidly,  they  may  be  used  temporarily,  until 


Description  of  Trees  173 

more  permanent  trees  have  reached  a  good  growth,  when 
they  can  be  removed. 

Redbud  or  Judas-tree  (Cercis  canadensis).  —  This  is 
a  very  beautiful  small  tree,  often  taking  the  shrub  form, 
producing  an  abundance  of  bright  pink  flowers  before  the 
leaves  appear.  The  latter  are  of  a  very  dark  rich  green 
color  that  is  ornamental  all  summer.  If  grown  too  rapidly 
while  young,  it  often  winter-kills,  like  many  of  the  trees 
coming  from  the  middle  and  Southern  States,  and  succeeds 
better  in  the  lawn  than  if  planted  in  a  rich  border;  enough 
plant-food,  however,  must  be  used  to  produce  a  fairly 
vigorous  growth. 

Flowering  Dogwood  (Cornus  florida),  Fig.  95. — This 
small  tree  requires  some  protection  from  the  hot  sun  and 
drying  winds  of  winter  to  reach  its  greatest  perfection.  In 
full  exposure  the  large  white  bracts  about  the  flowers — the 
ornamental  part  of  the  blossoms — are  often  injured,  but 
under  the  shade  of  larger  trees,  on  the  north  slope  of  a  hill 
or  in  the  shade  of  buildings  and  in  rather  moist  soil,  it 
becomes  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  our  native  small  trees. 
The  pink  or  red  form  of  this  species  is  also  very  beautiful 
and  valuable. 

English  Hawthorn  (Cratcegus  Oxycanthd) ,  Fig.  96. — 
The  double-flowering  hawthorns  are  among  the  most  beau- 
tiful of  the  small  trees.  The  flowers  are  very  brilliant 
and  abundant  and  the  foliage  is  of  a  beautiful  dark-green 
color,  but,  like  all  the  rosaceous  plants,  the  flowers  are  of 
short  duration.  The  tree  is  subject  to  the  attack  of  both 
the  flat-  and  round-headed  apple-borers  and  San  Jose  scale, 
and  the  leaves  to  several  species  of  fungi,  for  treatment  of 
which  see  chapter  on  Insects  and  Fungi.  The  varieties  known 
as  Paul's  new  double  white  and  red  are  among  the  best. 

Golden-chain  or  Laburnum  (Laburnum  anagyroides). — 
Where  this  half-hardy  shrub  or  small  tree  succeeds,  it  is  one  of 


174 


Landscape  Gardening 


the  most  beautiful  yellow-flowering  trees  in  existence. 
It  must  be  grown  slowly  in  the  lawn  or  where  the  roots  of 
other  trees  keep  the  soil  in  a  rather  poor  condition,  although 
enough  plant-food  must  be  applied  to  produce  a  fair  amount 
of  wood. 
American  Beech  -(Fagus  grandifoHa). — This  is  one  of 


FIG.  96. — English  Hawthorn  (Grata gus  Oxycantha). 

the  finest  American  trees,  but  requires  a  cool  moist  soil  and 
protection  from  the  hot  sun.  It  is  so  difficult  to  transplant 
that  it  is  not  often  seen  in  cultivated  grounds,  and  is  rather 
objectionable  as  a  lawn-tree  on  account  of  the  leaves,  which 
adhere  to  the  branches  nearly  all  winter,  even  more  closely 
than  the  white  oak  leaves.  Under  some  conditions  on  a 
large  place  and  among  groups  of  evergreens  the  very  light 


Description  of  Trees  175 

brown  or  almost  white  winter  foliage  produces  pleasing 
effects.  Like  the  oak  it  is  difficult  to  transplant. 

European  Beech  (F.  syhatica) . — Rather  more  graceful 
and  compact  in  growth  than  our  native  species  and  more 
easily  transplanted,  but  the  winter  foliage  is  of  a  darker 
color  and  not  quite  so  ornamental.  This  species  has  pro- 
duced many  interesting  and  beautiful  forms,  which  will  be 
described  under  their  proper  heading. 

European  Ash  (Fraxinus  excelsior). — This  somewhat  re- 
sembles our  native  ash  in  form  of  tree  and  color  of  its 
foliage;  it  is  easily  transplanted  and  many  of  its  varieties 
possess  considerable  value. 

Aucuba-leaved  Ash  (F.  pennsyhanica,  var.  aucubafolia). 
— A  beautiful  tree  with  variegated  foliage,  but  not  so 
vigorous  in  growth  as  the  common  form.  Valuable  to 
plant  in  contrast  with  trees  of  purple  or  dark-green 
foliage. 

Honey  Locust  (Gleditschia  triacanthos) . — A  large  tree 
with  beautiful  foliage  and  large,  often  branched  thorns, 
which  cover  more  or  less  the  main  branches  and  sometimes 
parts  of  the  trunk.  It  varies  much  in  shape,  sometimes 
making  very  irregular  growth,  but  it  can  be  trained  to  a  good 
form  by  a  little  judicious  pruning.  Compact,  finely  branched 
trees  should  be  selected  if  planted  on  the  lawn.  Thornless 
varieties  are  common  and  are  rather  more  beautiful. 

Kentucky  Coffee- tree  (Gymnocladus  dioica).—A  hardy 
native  tree  with  large  feathery  compound  leaves,  large 
stiff  branches,  and  large  panicles  of  flowers.  Valuable  for 
its  subtropical  effect. 

China-wood  (Kodreuteria  paniculata) . — A  hardy  imported 
tree  with  good  foliage  and  large  panicles  of  yellowish  white 
flowers  in  July;  is  valuable  on  account  of  its  large  masses 
of  flowers  opening  so  late  in  the  season.  It  is  not  a  long-lived 
tree  unless  planted  in  rather  thin  soil. 


176  Landscape  Gardening 

Sycamore,  Plane-tree  or  Buttonwood  (Platanus  occiden- 
talis). — Were  it  not  for  the  disease  which  attacks  this  tree 
it  would  be  among  the  most  desirable  for  ornamenting  large 
places  or  roadsides.  Its  most  conspicuous  features  are  the 
white  and  olive  patches  of  its  very  smooth  trunk  and  branches 
caused  by  the  annual  scaling  off  of  the  outer  bark.  A 
blight,  however,  attacks  the  leaves  in  the  early  summer, 
causing  many  of  them  to  wither  and  fall  off,  but  followed  by 
perfect  foliage  again  later  in  the  season.  As  a  result  of  this 
disease  the  branches  become  weakened  and  are  easily  broken 
off  by  wind  and  storm.  The  sycamore  requires  a  moist 
rich  soil  and  some  very  beautiful  specimens  are  found  grow- 
ing in  river-bottom  lands  in  many  sections  of  the  country. 

Poplars. — Very  few,  if  any,  of  the  poplars  are  of  much 
value  for  permanent  growth.  They  are  very  rapid  in 
growth,  easily  transplanted,  possessing  many  varying  forms 
and  colors,  and  useful  where  immediate  effect  is  desired. 

Silver  Poplar  or  Abele  (Populus  alba). — This  very 
rapidly  growing  tree  is  especially  conspicuous  when  the 
silvery  under-surface  of  the  leaves  is  turned  up  by  the  wind. 
It  has  the  fault,  however,  of  throwing  up  suckers  from  the 
roots  and  is  sometimes  attacked  by  insects.  To  prevent  the 
suckers  from  gaining  strength  and  becoming  troublesome, 
they  should  be  pulled  up,  when  the  shoots  separate  from 
the  root,  and  not  be  cut  off  at  the  surface.  If  cut  off  at  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  the  whole  root  system  remains 
perfect  and  the  buds  are  ready  to  start  again  with  renewed 
vigor.  Trees  of  this  species  are  much  more  hardy  along 
the  coast  of  New  England  than  more  inland. 

Bolles'  Silver  Poplar  (P.  alba,  var.  Bolleana). — This 
tree  is  of  a  more  close  and  spiry  growth  than  the  last,  with 
leaves  of  a  darker  color  above  and  equally  silvery  beneath, 
and  though  not  fully  tested  under  all  conditions  promises 
to  be  more  valuable  than  the  common  Abele. 


Description  of  Trees  177 

Black  Poplar  (P.  nigra),  Fig.  97. — A  most  rapid  grow- 
ing tree  of  a  pyramidal  growth  and  dark-green  leaves. 
Trees  started  from  cuttings  in  1874  were  in  1892  more 
than  2 1  feet  in  diameter  and  60  feet  high.  It  has,  how- 
ever, developed  a  very  serious  fault  in  that  the  lower 
leaves  are  attacked  by  a  leaf-rust.  As  this  disease  is  con- 


FIG.  97. — Black  or  Italian  Poplar. 

fined  largely  to  the  lower  leaves,  there  is  no  difficulty  in 
checking  it,  if  not  wholly  preventing,  by  spraying  with  the 
Bordeaux  mixture. 

Lombardy  Poplar  (P.  nigra,  var.  italica),  Fig.  98. — It  is 
perhaps  more  planted  than  any  other  species.  While  young 
it  is  clean  and  its  strict  habit  of  growth  makes  it  desirable 
for  screens  and  wind  breaks,  but  as  it  grows  older  the  lower 


178  Landscape  Gardening 

branches  are  diseased  and  break  off,  giving  the  tree  an 
unkempt  look. 

Flowering  Peaches  and  Plums  (Prunus  sp.}. — Noth- 
ing can  be  more  beautiful  than  the  double-flowering  peaches 
and  plums,  but  the  flowers  are  of  short  duration  and  the 
trees  subject  to  all  the  diseases  and  insects  that  attack  the 
fruit-bearing  trees,  and  are  therefore  not  largely  planted. 


FIG.  98. — Lombardy  Poplar   (P.  nigra,  var.  italica). 

They  begin  to  bloom,  however,  in  a  few  years  from  planting, 
and  where  the  expense  can  be  afforded  may  be  planted 
temporarily  to  occupy  the  space  until  more  permanent  or 
slower-growing  trees  can  give  the  desired  effect  of  shade  or 
ornament. 

Flowering  Apples. — While  the  blossoms  of  the  apples 
are  of  short  duration,  like  those  of  the  plum,  peach,  and 


Description  of  Trees  179 

cherry,  the  tree  is  hardy  and  lasts  a  much  longer  time. 
Among  the  best  of  these  are: 

Parkman's  Double-flowering  (Pyrus  Halliana).—This 
is  a  rather  dwarf  tree  with  rich  dark  foliage  and  producing 
beautiful  bright  rose-colored  double  flowers. 

Chinese  Double-flowering  Apple  (P.  spectabilis,  var.flore 
roseo-plena) . — Flowers  rather  larger  and  more  showy  than 
the  last. 

Siberian  Apple  (P.  baccata),  see  Fig.  117. — This  is  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  forms  of  the    Siberian   apple,  being 
covered   in    the    spring    with  dense  masses  of  single  pink 
flowers  and  in  the  fall  with  golden  yellow  fruit  less  than  \ 
inch  in  diameter.     It  seems  to  be  hardy  and  long  lived. 

Liquidambar  or  Sweet-gum  Tree  (Liquidambar  styraci- 
flua). — A  most  beautiful  tree  of  regular  conical  growth, 
fine  dark  foliage  which  takes  on  a  beautiful  red  and  yellow 
color  in  the  autumn;  a  native  of  the  middle  and  Southern 
States,  but  proves  hardy  in  New  England. 

Umbrella  Magnolia  (Magnolia  tripetala). — Of  a  rather 
broad  irregular  form,  its  large  leaves,  often  nearly  2  feet  long 
by  8  inches  wide,  and  large  showy  white  flowers  make 
this  tree  a  conspicuous  object  on  the  lawn.  Like  the  tulip- 
tree  and  the  other  magnolias,  its  roots  are  soft  and  easily 
injured  and  must  be  treated  very  carefully  in  transplanting. 

Cucumber  Tree  (M.  acuminatd). — A  very  fine  tree, 
pyramidal  in  form  and  producing  yellowish  fragrant  flowers 
in  considerable  abundance.  It  thrives  best  in  deep  warm 
soil.  See  Street-trees. 

Soulange's  Magnolia  (M.  Soulangeand),  Fig.  99.  This 
small  tree  is  the  most  beautiful,  most  hardy  and  useful  of 
the  magnolias,  the  large  cup-shaped  blossoms  of  white 
and  purplish  color  coming  before  the  leaves,  making  it  a 
very  conspicuous  and  beautiful  lawn-tree. 

Showy  Magnolia  (M.  S,  var.    speciosa).—Like  the  last, 


180 


Landscape  Gardening 


I 
i 

.2 
*§ 


Description  of  Trees  181 

but  with  rather  smaller  and  lighter-colored  flowers  that 
last  somewhat  longer. 

Swamp-magnolia  (M.  glauca). — A  native  tree  found 
in  swampy  places  from  Maine  to  Georgia,  and  under  favor- 
able conditions  is  a  great  addition  to  our  list  of  small  trees. 
The  foliage  is  bright  green  above  and  whitish  beneath,  and, 
like  most  of  the  small  magnolias,  is  generally  grafted  on  the 
tripetala  stock.  When  grown  in  the  shade  of  other  trees, 
it  holds  its  foliage  nearly  all  winter. 

Some  others  of  the  numerous  species  and  varieties  of 
magnolias  succeed  under  favorable  conditions,  and  where 
they  thrive  nothing  gives  more  satisfaction. 

Mulberry  (Morus  alba  and  rubra). — The  mulberry  is 
a  tree  of  good  form,  with  bright  green  foliage  that  is  orna- 
mental, and  many  persons  are  fond  of  the  fruit.  The  most 
hardy  of  the  fruit-bearing  and  perhaps  the  best  varieties  are 
the  new  American  and  Downing. 

Box  Elder  (Acer  Negundo).—A  rather  interesting  tree 
with  ash-like  foliage  and  fruit  much  like  that  of  the  com- 
mon maples.  It  soon  takes  an  irregular  form,  is  easily 
broken  by  wind  or  ice,  and  is  rather  short-lived. 

Chinese  Cork-tree  (Phellodendrom  amurense). — A  very 
desirable  round-headed  tree  of  recent  introduction,  with 
foliage  somewhat  like  the  black  walnut.  Thus  far  it  has 
proved  clean  and  free  from  insects  and  disease  and  entirely 
hardy. 

Yellow  Locust  (Robinia  Pseud- Acacia}. — Were  it  not 
that  this  tree  is  attacked  by  insects  which  injure  the  branches, 
stopping  their  growth  and  causing  them  to  break  off,  and  the 
growth  of  suckers  from  the  roots,  it  would  be  a  great  addition 
to  the  list  of  beautiful  ornamental  trees.  Its  foliage  is  fine 
and  feathery,  of  a  rich  dark-green  color,  and  when  in  blossom 
we  have  no  more  beautiful  tree.  It  is  worthy  of  continued 
effort  to  find  a  remedy  or  preventive  for  the  injury  of  insects, 


182  Landscape  Gardening 

and  it  has  been  suggested  that  by  spraying  the  trunk  and 
main  branches  with  arsenate  of  lead  and  water  or  with  this 
substance  in  the  Bordeaux  mixture,  in  the  spring  and  early 
summer,  this  injury  may  be  prevented. 

Willows. — Like  the  poplars,  the  willows  are  easily  prop- 
agated by  cuttings  and  will  grow  in  almost  any  soil.  They 
grow  very  rapidly,  but  soon  reach  maturity  and  are  not 
of  much  value  for  permanent  growth.  Some  of  the  weeping 
varieties  are  graceful  and  very  ornamental  and  will  be 
described  under  the  head  of  Weeping  Trees. 

White  Willow  (Salix  alba}. — The  most  rapid  grower  of 
all  of  the  willows  and  often  used  to  hold  embankments  and 
the  soil  along  the  borders  of  ponds  and  streams  in  place. 
While  young  it  is  regular  in  form  and  ornamental,  but  as  it 
becomes  older  takes  a  more  irregular  growth  and  loses  much 
of  its  beauty. 

Golden  Willow  (S.  wtellina). — Of  the  same  form  and 
habit  of  the  white  willow  and  possessing  the  same  faults, 
but  its  golden  bark  in  winter  often  forms  a  beautiful 
feature  when  planted  among  canoe-birches,  red-twigged 
willows,  or  red  dogwoods. 

Red-twigged  Willow  (S.  vitettina,  var.  Britzensis). — This 
is  a  comparatively  new  variety  with  red  twigs  which  while 
young  are  nearly  as  red  as  those  of  the  red  dogwood. 

Basswood  or  American  Linden  (Tilia  americana). 
— A  native  tree  of  some  value  for  ornamental  purposes.  It 
has  large,  dark  green  foliage  and  very  fragrant  white  flowers 
suspended  on  long- winged  peduncles  in  July.  It  makes  a 
large  tree  in  good  soil,  but  becomes  rather  irregular  as  it 
reaches  full  growth. 

European  Lindens  (T.plutyphyllos  and  vulgaris). — Native 
of  middle  and  northern  Europe,  of  more  regular  form  and 
smaller  foliage  than  the  last,  and  but  for  the  injury  caused 
by  borers  and  a  leaf-blight  they  would  be  most  valu- 


Description  of  Trees  183 

able  pyramidal  trees.  When  not  injured  by  the  above 
pests,  they  grow*  very  rapidly  and  reach  large  size.  (See 
chapter  on  Insects  and  Diseases.) 

White-leaved  European  Linden  (r.  tomentosa). — A  vigor- 
ous tree  with  a  more  rounded  head  than  the  last  and  with 
leaves  dark  green  above  and  silvery  white  beneath.  Sub- 
ject to  the  same  pests  as  the  last. 

American  Mountain  Ash  (Sorbus  americana). — One  of 
the  most  beautiful  native  small  trees  often  found  growing 
on  our  mountains.  Its  large  cymose  panicles  of  white  flowers 
are  very  beautiful,  and  there  is  scarcely  anything  more  beauti- 
ful than  the  large  clusters  of  dark  red  fruit  in  the  autumn 
and  early  winter.  It  is  so  seriously  injured  by  the  apple- 
borer,  however,  that  it  is  only  by  the  most  constant  atten- 
tion that  it  can  be  grown  so  as  to  reach  large  size. 

European  Mountain  Ash  (S.  Aucuparia). — Very  simi- 
lar to  the  last  in  habit  of  growth  and  foliage,  but  with  larger 
and  lighter-colored  berries.     It  requires  the  same  treatment 
to  prevent  injury  from  insects  as  the  last  species. 

Oak-leaved  Mountain  Ash  ($.  a.,  var.  quercifolia), 
Fig.  100. — A  very  interesting  form  of  the  last  species,  of  a 
more  compact  habit,  however,  and  having  leaves  somewhat 
like  those  of  the  English  oak.  Attention  must  be  given 
this  tree  to  prevent  injury  from  borers. 

Hop  Tree  (Ptelea  trifoliata).—This  small  round-headed 
tree  possesses  peculiar  beauty  of  form  and  dark,  rich  color 
of  foliage,  but  its  most  striking  feature  is  the  masses  of 
circular-winged  fruit  that  somewhat  resemble  large  clusters 
of  the  fruit  of  the  common  hop-vine. 

Oaks. — These  trees  are,  many  of  them,  emblems  of 
grandeur  and  strength,  yet  some  of  the  species  and  varie- 
ties possess  graceful  and  pleasing  outlines  and  beautiful 
colors  of  foliage.  In  size  many  of  them  are  not  suited  to 
small  places,  and  yet  a  single  large  oak  with  a  cottage  and 


184 


Landscape  Gardening 


accompanying  outbuildings  nestling  under  its  branches 
affords  a  most  beautiful  picture  of  comfort  and  protection 
of  which  the  home  is  our  best  emblem.  Perhaps  the  most 
objectionable  feature  of  these  trees  as  a  lawn  ornament  is 
the  persistency  with  which  the  foliage  of  some  species  adheres 
in  the  winter.  In  the  grove  mingled  with  evergreen  and  other 
deciduous  trees  this  feature  may  have  rather  a  pleasing 


FIG.  100. — Oak -leaved  Mountain  Ash  (Sorbus  aucuparia  quercifolia). 

effect,  but  in  a  conspicuous  place  on  a  lawn  its  persistent 
brown  leaves  are  not  pleasing  objects  for  continued  view 
during  the  winter.  The  oaks  require  a  strong  soil  to  reach 
their  greatest  perfection,  but  they  do  well  under  a  great 
variety  of  conditions.  They  are  difficult  to  transplant  and 
need  the  special  preparation  recommended  for  the  oak, 
black  walnut,  etc.,  on  pages  161  and  163. 


Description  of  Trees 


185 


White  Oak  (Quercus  alba),  Fig.  101. — The  grandest  of 
all  the  oaks  and  one  of  the  most  common.  It  is  rather  slow 
in  growth  and  wherever  large  trees  are  found,  whether  by 
the  roadside  or  in  the  field,  they  should  be  preserved  and  the 
most  be  made  of  their  picturesque  grandeur.  The  long  adher- 
ence of  the  brown  leaves  of  this  and  the  pin  oak  in  the  winter 


FIG.  ioi.— White  Oak  (Quercus  alba). 

makes  them  sometimes  objectionable  on  small  places,  but  on 
a  large  place  and  in  among  evergreens  they  are  an  interesting 
feature  of  the  winter  landscape.  This  applies  more  especially 
to  the  white  and  pin  oak. 

Red  Oak  (Q.  rubra). — See  Street-  or  Avenue-trees. 

Swamp  White  Oak  (Q.  bicolor). — Somewhat  similar  in  ap- 
pearance to  the  white  oak,  but  rather  more  upright  in  growth 
and  with  a  heavier  foliage.  It  succeeds  best  in  a  moist  soil. 


186 


Landscape  Gardening 


Pin  or  Swamp  Oak  (Q.  palustris),  Fig.  102. — This 
beautiful  oak  is  only  of  medium  size  and  takes  the  most 
regular  pyramidal  form;  the  leaves  are  deeply  lobed,  dark 
green  in  color,  changing  to  a  beautiful  scarlet-crimson  in 


FlG,  102.—  Pin  Oak  (Quercus  palustris). 


autumn.  Its  acorns  are  small,  set  in  a  very  shallow  cup, 
and  the  branches  stand  out  nearly  at  right  angles  with  the 
trunk  or  with  age  assume  a  drooping  form.  It  is  a  tree 
that  should  be  more  planted  than  it  is. 


Description  of  Trees  187 

Scarlet  Oak  (Q.  coccinea). — This  tree  resembles  the  red 
oak  (see  Avenue-trees)  somewhat  in  outline,  but  with  a 
much  more  deeply  lobed  leaf  and  an  acorn  of  medium 
size  nearly  half  immersed  in  the  cup.  It  is  an  upland 
oak  and  takes  on  a  beautiful  scarlet  color  in  autumn. 

English  Oak  (Q.  pedunculata)  .—This  oak  is  medium  to  large 
in  size,  with  rather  small  leaves  much  like  our  native  white 
oak,  but  more  graceful  and  compact  in  outline.  It  takes  a 
greater  variety  of  forms  than  any  other  species,  varying 
from  the  most  close  and  upright  pyramidal  form  to  the 
low-spreading  or  weeping  tree,  and  in  foliage  from  the 
darkest  green  through  the  lighter  shades  of  green  to  golden 
yellow  and  to  the  rich  purple  shades  of  the  copper  beech. 
In  form  of  the  leaves  it  varies  from  those  with  broad,  almost 
unbroken  outline  to  the  deeply  cut,  almost  fern-like  leaves. 
These  peculiar  and  marked  forms,  however,  must  be  propa- 
gated by  budding  or  grafting  and  are  often  of  slow  growth 
and  expensive.  Among  the  best  forms  are: 

Fern-leaved  oak  (Q.  p.,  var.  asplenifolia). 
Variegated  oak  (Q.  p.,  var.  variegata). 
Purple-leaved  oak  (Q.  p.,  var.  atropurpurea). 
Pyramidal  oak  (Q.  p.,  var.fasligiata). 

Chestnut  Oak  (Q.  Prinus). — The  leaves  of  this  species 
are  very  much  like  those  of  the  common  chestnut,  but  not 
so  narrow  or  so  pointed.  It  succeeds  best  in  rather  strong 
rocky  soil. 

Elms. — Under  the  heading  of  "Street-trees"  the  white 
and  slippery  elm  were  described.  Both  of  these  species  are 
equally  adapted  to  the  lawn,  where  high-spreading  forms 
are  desired,  but  they  are  gross  feeders  and  it  will  be  found 
somewhat  difficult  to  make  other  trees,  shrubs,  or  plants 
grow  near  them.  An  abundance  of  plant-food,  however, 
applied  each  fall  will  help  to  make  both  the  elms  and  what- 


188  Landscape  Gardening 

ever  may  be  planted  among  their  roots  grow  satisfactorily. 
To  succeed  with  strong-feeding  plants,  like  shrubs,  bulbs, 
bedding  plants,  etc.,  under  the  shade  of  elm  trees,  the  soil 
and  all  of  the  fibrous  roots  should  be  dug  out  with  a  sharp 
spade,  a  foot  or  more  deep,  filling  up  the  space  with  turfy 
loam,  when  if  there  is  moisture  enough  supplied  a  good 
growth  will  take  place.  If  the  trees  are  large  this  treat- 
ment may  be  necessary  each  year. 

English  Elm  (Ulmus  campestris) . — Although  of  a  sturdy, 
vigorous,  upright  growth,  it  does  not  reach  the  beauty 
and  grandeur  of  our  American  elm.  As  with  the  English 
oak,  this  species  takes  many  interesting  forms,  some  of  which 
are  very  beautiful. 

Scotch  Elm  (U.  scabra). — Much  like  the  last,  but  with 
a  rather  more  upright  and  heavy  growth. 

All  of  the  elms  are  subject  to  the  attack  of  the  elm-scale 
(Gossyparia),  canker-worm,  and  the  elm  leaf -beetle,  which 
see  on  pages  270-274. 

European  Larch  (Larix  decidua). — This  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  and  rapidly  growing  trees,  and  except  when 
injured  by  the  pine  saw-fly,  an  insect  the  larvae  of  which 
destroy  the  foliage  in  the  summer,  and  an  aphis  or  plant- 
louse  that  sometimes  checks  its  growth,  is  a  most  desirable 
tree.  The  foliage  is  very  fine  and  feathery,  and  in  the 
spring  of  the  most  delicate  green  color,  while  in  the  autumn 
it  changes  to  a  beautiful  golden  color  and  hangs  a  long  time, 
which  gives  very  beautiful  effects  in  contrast  with  other  foli- 
age or  by  itself.  It  is  best  transplanted  in  the  fall  and  suc- 
ceeds upon  the  poorest  of  soils.  The  lateral  branches  should 
be  encouraged  to  make  a  full  growth  by  heading  in  the  top 
while  young,  yet  at  the  same  time  its  regular  pyramidal 
habit  of  growth  should  be  preserved, 


Description  of  Trees 


189 


Weeping  Trees 

Few  more  beautiful  objects  can  be  seen  that  some  of  the 
many  weeping  trees  that  are  now  being  offered  by  nearly 
all  of  our  nurserymen.  They  possess  beauty  of  form,  grace 


FIG.  103. — Weeping  Maple. 

in  outline,  and  often  produce  beautiful  flowers.  They  are 
especially  adapted  to  planting  upon  the  lawn.  Most  of  the 
trees  of  this  type  are  grafted  upon  other  stocks,  which  in 
many  cases  results  in  a  smaller  or  slower  growth  and  shorter 
life  and  adds  very  much  to  their  cost. 


190  Landscape  Gardening 


LIST   OF   WEEPING   TREES 

Maple,  Cut-leaved  Weeping.  Mulberry,  Weeping. 

Birch,  Cut-leaved  Weeping.  Willow,  Babylon  Weeping. 

Cherry,  Weeping  Japanese.  Willow,  Kilmarnock  Weeping. 

Dogwood,  Weeping.  Willow,  Thurlow's  Weeping. 

Beech,  Weeping.  Willow,  Purple  or  Am.  Weeping. 

Ash,  Weeping.  Elm,  Camperdown. 
Poplar,  Weeping. 

Cut-leaved  Weeping  Maple  (Acer  saccharinum,  var. 
Wieri),  Fig.  103. — A  very  graceful  weeping  tree  with  deeply 
cut  leaves,  dark  green  above  and  silvery  white  beneath. 
When  allowed  to  grow  without  care,  it  often  forms  forked 
branches  that  are  liable  to  split  down  with  heavy  weight  of 
snow  and  ice.  To  avoid  this,  only  one  leader  or  main 
branch  should  be  allowed  to  grow  at  first,  and  all  laterals 
tending  to  outgrow  the  leader  should  be  headed  in  to  keep 
a  good  balance  of  the  tree.  Some  very  fine  trees  are  grown 
from  seed  of  the  cut-leaved  varieties,  but  the  best  forms  must 
be  obtained.by  grafting  upon  the  common  silver  maple  stock. 

Cut-leaved  European  Weeping  Birch  (Betula  pendula 
var.  dalecarlica) ,  Fig.  104. — On  account  of  its  rapid  growth, 
the  ease  with  which  it  is  transplanted,  and  its  great  beauty, 
both  in  winter  and  summer,  this  is  one  of  the  most  satis- 
factory of  the  weeping  trees  while  young.  It  is  especially 
effective  with  a  background  of  evergreens  or  in  winter  in 
contrast  with  red-  or  yellow-twigged  willows.  It  grows  well 
in  poor  soil  and  is  easily  transplanted  while  young,  but  not 
so  readily  when  it  reaches  two  or  three  inches  in  diameter. 
This  variety  is  commonly  grafted  or  budded  on  the  ccmmon 
form  of  B.  alba.  It  has  not  proved  a  long-lived  tree,  being 
often  attacked  by  a  disease  when  20  to  30  years  old  that 
frequently  kills  the  whole  tree  in  one  or  two  seasons. 

Young's  Weeping  Birch  (B.  p.,  var.  Youngii). — A  form  of 
the  common  gray  birch.  Smaller  and  less  upright  than  the 


Description  of  Trees 


191 


last,  but  with  a  more  drooping  head  and  much  smaller 
leaves.  It  forms  a  beautiful  object  on  the  lawn.  Short 
lived  on  low  wet  land. 


FIG.  104. — Cut-leaved  Weeping  Birch  (Betula  pendula,  dalecarlica). 

Weeping  Cherries  and  Plums. — Nothing  can  be  more 
beautiful  than  some  of  the  double-  and  single-flowered 
weeping  cherries  and  plums,  but,  like  those  of  the  same 


192  Landscape  Gardening 

genus  already  described,  they  are  short-lived,  liable  to  injury 
from  insects  and  fungous  pests,  and  the  cherries  especially 
to  injury  to  the  trunk  by  freezing.  One  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful is  the 

Japanese  Weeping  Cherry  (Prunus  pendula). — While 
young  this  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  objects  ever 
introduced.  It  is,  however,  grafted  upon  an  upright  stock, 
and  we  have  thus  far  found  nothing  as  a  stock  that 


FIG.  105. — Weeping  Beech  (F.  syl.,  pendula). 

will  withstand  the  climate  of  middle  and  northern  New 
England,  where  the  trunk  is  split  open  by  the  action  of 
frosts.  Further  south  it  may  not  be  injured  in  this  way 
by  severe  winters. 

Weeping  Dogwood  (Cornus  florida,  var.  pendula). — 
This  small  tree  is  not  more  beautiful  than  the  upright  form 
of  the  species  already  described,  but  it  is  unique  and  attrac- 
tive when  well  grown. 


Description  of  Trees 


193 


Weeping  Beech  (Fagus  syhatica,  var.  pendula),  Fig. 
105. — Although  not  regular  in  outline,  this  tree  has  a  pic- 
turesque beauty  peculiar  to  itself.  It  is  vigorous  in  growth 
and  desirable.  Succeeds  only  on  heavy  soils. 


FIG.  106. — Teas'  Weeping  Mulberry  (Morns  alba,  var.  laciniata  pendula). 

Weeping  Ash  (Fraxinus  excelsior,  var.  pendula). — A  rather 
stiff,  drooping  tree,  with  beautiful  foliage,  and  although 
not  equal  in  graceful  beauty  to  many  of  the  weeping  trees, 
it  is  useful  in  some  combinations. 


194 


Landscape  Gardening 


Weeping  Mulberry  (Moms  alba,  var.  laciniata  pen' 
dula),  Fig.  1 06. — One  of  the  most  graceful  and  beautiful 
fountain-shaped  trees.  Its  branches  are  slender  and  fall 
away  from  the  upright  stock  upon  which  it  is  grafted  in  a 
very  graceful  fountain-like  manner,  and  its  deeply  cut  and 


FIG.  107. — Camperdown  Elm  (Ulmus  scabra,  var.  pendula). 


lobed  bright-green  leaves  add  much  to  its  lightness  and 
beauty.  It  has  thus  far  proved  hardy  and  free  from  disease 
or  insect  pest. 

Babylon  Weeping  Willow  (Salix  babylonica). — The  largest 
and  most  rapidly  growing  of  the  very  graceful  weeping  trees; 
it  is  a  very  beautiful  tree,  but  has  some  of  the  faults  of  other 


Description  of  Trees  195 

species  of  willows,  and  its  branches  are  easily  broken  off  by 
wind  and  storm.  It  is  especially  adapted  to  locations  near 
water  and  grows  most  rapidly  in  a  moist  soil.  See  Fig.  84. 

Thurlow's  Weeping  Willow  (S.  elegantissimd). — As  far 
as  tested  this  new  tree  promises  to  be  the  most  satisfac- 
tory and  beautiful  of  the  weeping  willows.  In  form  it  is 
upright  with  the  branches  bending  toward  the  ground.  Its 
young  branches  are  bright  green,  which  will  form  a  pleasing 
contrast  with  the  yellow  and  red  shoots  of  the  other  willows 
and  the  clean  white  branches  of  the  birches. 

Purple  Weeping  Willow  (S.  pur  pur  ea,  var.  pendula). 
—The  glaucous  foliage  of  this  native  willow,  together  with 
the  purple-colored  shoots,  gives  a  shade  of  color  that  is  very 
desirable  in  ornamental  grouping  in  winter. 

Camperdown  Elm  (Ulmus  scabra,  var.  pendula),  Fig.  104. 
— For  an  arbor-tree,  one  that  will  give  a  close  shade  and 
last  a  long  time  and  is  decidedly  graceful  in  outline,  this 
tree  stands  at  the  head  of  the  list.  To  get  the  best  results, 
it  should  be  grafted  at  least  six  feet  from  the  ground  on 
the  upright  scabra  stock;  otherwise  the  branches  will  be 
too  low  to  sit  under  conveniently,  and  when  reaching  near 
the  ground  many  of  the  lower  branches  will  soon  decay. 

Trees  with  Deeply  Cut  Foliage 

Maple,  Wier's  Cut-leaved.  Maple,  Variegated-leaved,  Jap 

Birch,  Cut-leaved  Weeping.  Beech,  Fern-leaved,  Jap. 

Maple,  Purple,  Cut-leaved,  Jap.  Ash,  Cut-leaved,  Jap. 

Maple,  Green  Fern-leaved,  Jap.  Oak,  Cut-leaved,  Jap. 

Of  the  above  Wier's  Cut-leaved  Maple  and  Weeping  Cut- 
leaved  Birch  have  already  been  described  under  "Weeping 
Trees,"  Figs.  106  and  103,  and  are  among  the  very  best  of 
this  group. 

Japanese  Maples  (Acer  polymorphum,  vars.). — Few  trees 
have  produced  such  a  variety  of  foliage  or  forms  of  growth  as 


196  Landscape  Gardening 

this  species.  Some  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  forms  have 
already  been  mentioned,  but  no  description  given.  Among 
the  best  are  the  following,  Pig.  94,  (3) : 

Japanese  Purple  Cut-leaved  Maple  (A.  p.,  var.  dissectum 
purpureum). — A  beautiful  weeping,  cut-leaved,  small  tree, 
very  slow  in  growth,  but  the  leaves  are  so  deeply  cut  and 
fern-like,  and  with  deep  purple  color,  that  one  is  well  repaid 
for  considerable  petting  and  long  waiting  if  he  succeeds 
in  making  it  grow  to  perfection.  It  must  be  planted  in  a 
deep,  moderately  rich  soil,  and  should  have  an  annual 
dressing  of  rich  manure  in  the  fall  for  3  or  4  feet  around  the 
trunk. 

Japanese  Green  Fern-leaved  Maple  (A.  p.,  var.  pin- 
natifidum). — A  variety  that  is  rather  more  vigorous  than 
the  last,  but  with  green  fern-like  foliage  and  with  the  same 
graceful  drooping  habit. 

Variegated  Fern-leaved  Maple  (A.  p.,  dissectum  roseo- 
pictum). — Equal  to  the  last  in  vigor  and  perfection  of 
foliage,  but  many  of  the  leaves  are  beautifully  bordered  and 
marked  with  white,  pink,  and  rose-color,  especially  those 
on  the  inside  of  the  shrub. 

Fern-leaved  Beech  (Fagus  sylvatica,  var.  heterophylla). 
— In  a  heavy  soil  where  other  varieties  of  the  beech  succeed 
this  tree  will  thrive  and  is  very  beautiful  and  desirable. 
Fig.  108. 

Cut-leaved  Ash  (Fraxinus  excelsior,  var.  crispa). — The 
leaves  of  this  variety  are  irregularly  cut  and  divided  and 
the  tree  presents  a  very  pleasing  appearance.  Requires 
a  heavy  soil. 

Cut-leaved  Oak  (Quercus  pedunculata,  var.  filicifolia). — 
For  a  slowly  growing  tree  this  is  one  of  the  most  permanent 
and  in  strong  soil  succeeds  with  good  ordinary  care.  Like 
all  the  other  oaks,  it  is  difficult  to  transplant. 


Description  of  Trees 


197 


198  Landscape  Gardening 


Trees  with  Colored  Foliage 

Maple,  Reitenbach.  Beech,  Copper. 

Maple,  Schwerdler's.  Beech,  Rivers'  Purple. 

Maple,  Japanese.  Poplar,  Golden. 

Maple  Purple  Sycamore.  Plum,  Purple-leaved. 

Maple,  Tricolored  Sycamore.  Oak,  Purple-leaved. 
Birch,  Purple-leaved. 

Reitenbach's  Maple  (Acer  platanoides,  var.  Reitenbachii) 
and  Schwedler's  Maple  (A.  p.,  var.  Schvtedlerii)  have 
already  been  described  under  Lawn-trees. 

Japan  Purple-leaved  Maple  (A.  palmatum,  var.  atro- 
purpureum  and  sanguineum),  Fig.  94". — These  two  varieties 
are  very  much  alike,  but  the  first  has  somewhat  darker 
foliage  with  a  deeper-lobed  and  rather  narrower  leaf  than 
the  last.  They  grow  nearly  as  large  as  the  common  form 
of  this  species,  i.e.,  10  to  15  ft.,  and  the  foliage  is  the  most 
beautifully  colored  of  all  of  the  purple-leaved  trees.  They 
require  a  deep,  warm  soil,  and  perhaps  a  little  shelter  from 
too  much  exposure,  and  are  more  hardy  when  grown  in  the 
lawn  than  when  grown  in  a  rich  border. 

Purple  Sycamore  Maple  (A  pseudoplatanus,  var.  pur- 
pur  ascens). — A  heavy,  broad-headed  tree,  with  dark  bronze- 
green  foliage,  but  not  of  the  decided  color  possessed  by 
Schwedler's  or  the  Japanese  species.  Not  quite  hardy  in 
moist,  cold  soils. 

Tricolored  Sycamore  Maple  (A.  p.,  var.  tricolor). — 
Of  the  same  form  as  the  last,  but  with  leaves  beautifully 
marked  with  white,  green,  and  purple.  Very  interesting 
but  not  a  conspicuous  tree. 

Purple-leaved  Birch  (Betula  pendula  var.  pur  pur  ea). 
— A  tree  of  good  form  and  with  conspicuous  colored  foliage 
in  spring,  soon  changing  to  a  bronze  green.  The  contrast 
of  this  dark  foliage  with  the  white  bark  of  the  branches 


Description  of  Trees  199 

makes  it  a  very  desirable  tree.  It  succeeds  best  upon  very 
thin  soil. 

Purple-leaved  Catalpa  (Catalpa  bignonioides,  var.  pur- 
pured). — Were  this  tree  perfectly  hardy  in  the  northern 
sections  of  the  country  it  would  be  one  of  the  most  desirable 
trees  for  the  lawn.  It,  however,  is  not  quite  hardy  while 
young,  and,  as  with  the  C.  speciosa,  it  must  be  kept  in  the 
shelter  of  the  nursery  until  it  is  3  or  4  inches  in  diameter 
at  the  base,  when,  if  it  has  been  transplanted  in  the  nursery 
several  times,  it  may  be  safely  moved  to  the  lawn,  where  it 
will  succeed  better  than  in  a  rich  border.  The  foliage  is 
large,  dark  bronze  purple,  growing  somewhat  lighter  with 
the  advance  of  the  season. 

Copper-leaved  Beech  (Fagus  sylvatica,  var.  pur  pur  ea). 
— No  tree  is  more  conspicuous  on  the  lawn  or  in  groups 
than  the  purple  or  copper  beech,  and  large  numbers  of  them 
are  planted  each  year;  yet  we  see  very  few  specimens  more 
than  a  few  years'  old.  The  reason  for  this  undoubtedly 
is  that  they  do  not  succeed  in  all  soils  and  in  full  exposure 
and  that  they  are  sometimes  attacked  by  borers  which  work 
in  the  trunk  near  the  ground  (see  Chap.  XV).  The  varieties 
will  grow  only  under  the  conditions  of  the  common  types, 
requiring  a  deep,  moist  soil,  some  shade  or  shelter  while 
young,  and  a  cool  northerly  exposure. 

Rivers'  Purple  Beech  (F.  s.,  var.  River  sii\  Fig.  109. 
— This  variety  has  more  sharply  cut  and  darker  col- 
ored leaves  than  the  last,  and  may  be  preferred  by  many, 
though  both  are  extremely  beautiful,  and  change  about 
equally  to  the  bronze-green  color  as  they  mature. 

Golden  Poplar  (Populus  deltoides,  var.  aurea). — This  is 
the  most  rapidly  growing  of  the  golden-leaved  trees  we  have, 
and  is  of  value  planted  in  contrast  with  purple-  and  dark- 
leaved  varieties  of  trees.  Like  some  of  the  other  species  of 
poplars,  it  is  short  lived  and  the  leaves  are  often  seriously 


200 


Landscape  Gardening 


injured  by  rust  in  August,  which  causes  defoliation  before 
the  buds  are  matured.  The  treatment  required  to  destroy 
this  rust  is  the  same  as  for  that  described  for  the  black 
poplar.  (See  Chap.  XV.)  / 


FIG.  IOQ. — Rivers'  Purple  Beech. 

Purple-leaved  Plum  (Prunus  Pissardi). — Were  it  not 
for  the  short  life  of  this  tree  it  would  be  one  of  the  greatest 
acquisitions.  It  is  rapid  in  growth,  easily  transplanted,  of 
good  form,  and  retains  its  dark  purple  color  longer  than  any 


Description  of  Trees 


201 


202  Landscape  Gardening 

other  tree.  It  is  much  subject  to  the  attack  of  the  San  Jose 
scale,  which  has  destroyed  a  great  many  trees. 

Purple-leaved  Oak  (Quercus  pedunculata,  var.  atropur- 
purea). — The  characteristic  of  strength  typified  by  the  oaks 
makes  any  of  the  species  of  interest,  and  if  in  addition  to  this 
character  they  possess  strikingly  beautiful  features  they 
become  all  the  more  valuable.  This  tree  has  dark  purple 
or  bronze-green  foliage  all  summer,  is  moderately  vigorous 
in  growth,  and  very  desirable. 

Golden-leaved  Oak  (Q.  p.,  var.  Concordia). — This  is 
perhaps  the  best  of  the  golden-leaved  oaks,  and  is  very 
beautiful  when  the  leaves  first  unfold,  but  it  loses  some- 
thing of  its  freshness  and  beauty  as  the  season  advances. 
Its  chief  value  consists  in  the  use  that  may  be  made  of  it 
in  toning  down  the  extreme  shades  and  tints  of  other  trees. 

Golden-leaved  Japanese  Maple  (Acer  jap.,  var.  aureum). 
• — A  most  beautiful  tree  for  planting  with  the  purple-leaved 
forms  of  A.  palmatum. 

Gulden  Elm  (Ulmus  campestris,  var.aurea^'Fig.  no,(i). 
— This  beautiful  tree  is  of  slow  growth,  but  planted  in 
moderately  rich  land  succeeds  well  and  is  worth  repeated 
trials  to  secure  the  establishment  of  even  a  single  specimen. 

Chinese  Catalpa  (Catalpa  Bungei),  Fig.  113. — A  most 
interesting  round  or  umbrella-formed  tree  with  large,  bright- 
green  foliage.  In  slight  shelter  and  in  a  deep,  warm,  sandy 
loam  it  proves  hardy  and  valuable. 


CHAPTER  XI 
EVERGREEN  TREES 

EVERGREEN  trees  are  indispensable  in  some  features  of 
ornamental  gardening.  They  are  especially  valuable  for 
screens  and  wind-breaks,  for  a  background  against  which 
to  group  trees  with  beautifully  colored  leaves,  flowers  or 
branches,  and  for  winter  decoration.  The  too  abundant 
use  of  evergreens  results  in  a  sombre  effect  and  often  in  an 
unhealthful  condition  if  planted  too  close  to  the  buildings. 
The  limit  and  scope  of  this  work  will  allow  of  the  description 
of  only  the  most  beautiful,  and  those  that  are  most  easily 
transplanted  and  succeed  under  a  wide  range  of  conditions. 
Small  evergreens  should  not  be  planted  where  teams,  per- 
sons, or  animals  passing  will  brush  against  them  continually 
during  the  winter,  as  they  are  very  easily  injured  in  this 
way  while  frozen. 

Evergreens  may  be  transplanted  at  almost  any  season  of 
the  year,  but  great  care  needs  to  be  taken  that  the  roots  do 
not  become  dry  by  exposure  to  sun  and  wind,  and  if  possi- 
ble a  moist  day  should  be  selected  for  the  work.  Evergreens, 
like  all  other  trees  and  shrubs,  must  have  an  abundance  of 
plant  food.  The  annual  dressing  of  compost  should  be 
applied  to  them  as  much  as  to  the  flowering  shrubs,  at  least 
until  they  have  become  thoroughly  established.  Nearly  all 
are  also  benefited  by  pruning,  especially  those  that  tend  to 
grow  into  a  close  spiry  form.  This  is  best  done  in  the 
spring  before  growth  begins,  though  it  may  be  done  at  any 
time  with  fair  success.  Among  the  best  of  the  evergreen 
trees  are: 

203 


204 


Landscape  Gardening 


Evergreen  Trees 


205 


Spruce,  White. 

Spruce,  Norway. 

Spruce,  Inverted  Norway. 

Spruce,  Colorado  Blue. 

Fir,  Nordmann's. 

Juniper,  or  Red  Cedar. 

Juniper,  Prostrate. 

Pine,  Austrian. 

Pine,  Weymouth  or  White. 


Pine,  Bhotan. 
Pine,  Swiss  Stone. 
Cypress,  Japanese. 
Cypress,  Japanese,  Thread-like. 
Arbor- vitae,  American. 
Arbor-vitae,  Siberian. 
Arbor-vitae,  Pyramidal. 
Arbor-vitae,  Globe. 
Arbor-vitae,  Golden. 


FIG.  112. — Norway  Spruce. 


White  Spruce  (Picea  alba). — A  native  tree  of  consider- 
able beauty  of  form,  rapid  growth,  and  good  color.  It  is 
easily  transplanted  and  grows  in  a  variety  of  soils. 

Norway  Spruce  (Picea  excelsa},  Fig.  112. — The  most 
rapidly  growing  of  the  spruces  and  very  beautiful  while  young, 
but  after  it  reaches  the  age  of  20  years  and  upwards  its  lower 
branches  begin  to  fail  and  must  be  cut  away.  To  prevent 
this  in  a  measure  severe  heading  in  of  the  leader  should  be 


206  Landscape  Gardening 

practised,  which  forces  the  growth  into  the  lower  branches. 
It  grows  rapidly  even  on  very  poor  soil.  The  weeping 
variety  (P.  e.,  var.  inversa)  is  unique  in  form,  the  branches 
hanging  downward  close  to  the  trunk,  presenting  a  very 
picturesque  and  unusual  appearance. 

Colorado   Blue   Spruce    (Picea    pungens),    Fig.    113. — 
Seedlings  of  this  tnost  beautiful  spruce  vary  very  much  in 


FIG.  113. — Colorado  Blue  Spruce  (Picea  pungens). 

color,  some  being  dark  green,  like  the  Norway  spruce,  while 
others  are  of  the  most  beautiful  glaucous  or  bluish-green 
color.  Some  of  these  very  "blue"  specimens  may  be  found 
in  every  lot  of  seedlings,  but  to  obtain  them  with  certainty 
and  in  large  numbers  scions  are  taken  from  the  best- 
colored  specimens  and  grafted  into  the  ordinary  pungens 
or  excelsa  stocks.  Thus  the  most  perfectly  colored  speci- 
mens become  rather  expensive.  They  make  most  beautiful 


Evergreen  Trees 


207 


lawn-trees  either  singly  or  in  groups  of  the  same  species 
or  arranged  with  others  of  varying  colors. 

Nordmann's  Fir  (Abies  Nordmanniana),  Fig.  in. — A 
slowly-growing  tree  of  very  dark  green  color  and  the  most 
perfect  pyramidal  growth.  The  contrast  of  the  new  growth 


FIG.  114. — Austrian  Pine  (Pinus  Laricio,  var.  austriaca). 

in  the  spring,  which  is  almost  golden  color,  with  the  very 
dark  color  of  the  old  foliage  is  very  beautiful. 

Red  Cedar  (Juniperus  virginiana). — A  native  tree 
generally  conical  in  form,  found  growing  on  dry,  rocky 
hillsides,  and  is  very  pretty  and  useful  for  decorating  such 


208 


Landscape  Gardening 


FIG.  115.— Japanese  Plumed  Cypress  (Chamvcyparis  pisifera,  var. 
plumosa). 


Evergreen  Trees  209 

It  takes  on  more  or  less  of  the  brownish  green,  like  the 
arbor-vitaes,  during  the  winter. 

Prostrate  Juniper  (Sabina  and  J.  horizontalis. — Although 
of  rather  coarse  growth,  its  prostrate  habit  makes  it  valuable 
for  decorating  rocky  grounds,  on  large  places,  among  ledges 
and  boulders,  where  it  is  very  effective.  The  golden  variety, 
the  new  growth  of  which  is  of  golden  color,  is  very  pretty 
in  contrast  with  the  dark  green  of  the  original  form. 

Austrian  Pine  (Pinus  Laricio  var.  austriaca),  Fig.  114. — 
This  is  rather  a  heavily  growing  tree,  somewhat  resembling 
our  native  red  or  Norway  pine,  but  with  a  more  compact 
growth,  longer  and  darker  green  leaves,  and  succeeds  in  a  vari- 
ety of  soils.  The  most  valuable  of  the  hard  pines  for  orna- 
mental purposes,  but  should  not  be  planted  on  small  places. 

White  or  Weymouth  Pine  (P.  strobus}. — This  is  one 
of  the  most  valuable  native  trees  for  a  quick  growth,  grow- 
ing rapidly  in  almost  any  kind  of  soil.  While  young  it  is 
very  beautiful,  perfect  in  outline,  and  of  a  beautiful  glau- 
cous color,  but  as  it  reaches  maturity  it  becomes  more  and 
more  spreading  and  irregular,  which  while  not  unpleasant 
under  some  circumstances  is  not  well  adapted  to  use  upon 
the  ordinary  small  lawn.  It  is  one  of  the  most  easily  trans- 
planted trees  we  have,  whether  taken  from  the  nursery,  the 
pastures,  or  woods.  It  stands  pruning  well  and  may  be 
trained  into  a  great  variety  of  forms,  though  in  its  natural 
growth  while  young  it  possesses  more  real  beauty  than  any 
closely-shaven  or  unnaturally  trained  form. 

Bhotan  or  Long-leaved  Pine  (P.  excelsa)—  Some- 
what resembling  the  last,  but  with  much  longer  and  more 
beautiful  leaves;  the  form  of  the  tree,  however,  is  not  so 
graceful  or  regular.  Not  quite  hardy  in  the  Northeastern 
States. 

Swiss  Stone-pine  (P.Cembra),  Figs.  1 1 1-2.— This  species  is 
very  much  like  the  native  white  pine  in  color,  but  it  is  more 


210  Landscape  Gardening 

compact  in  form,  making  a  pyramidal  growth.  It  is  rather 
slower  in  growth  than  the  latter  species  and  much  more 
beautiful,  but  not  so  easily  transplanted. 

Japanese  Cypress  (Chamcecyparis  pisifera),    Fig.  116. — 
This  is  the  largest  and  one  of  the  most  hardy  of  the  many 


FIG.  116. — Japanese  Cypress  (R.  picifera). 

species  of  this  genus  that  have  been  introduced  from  Japan. 
The  foliage  is  dark  green  and  somewhat  fern-like  in  the 
arrangement  of  its  small  branches.  While  young  it  is  com- 
pact and  very  beautiful,  but  as  it  reaches  maturity  it  becomes 
more  open  and  irregular  in  growth,  though  it  still  retains 
much  of  its  beauty.  The  leader  should  be  cut  out  once  in 
three  or  four  years  to  force  growth  into  the  lower  branches. 


Evergreen  Trees 


211 


Japanese  Thread-like  Cypress  (C.  pisifera  var.filifera). — 
More  beautiful  than  the  last  and  equally  hardy.  It  is  of 
light-green  color  with  thread-like  terminal  branches  and 
very  graceful  and  perfect  in  form.  One  of  the  most  desir- 
able of  evergreens  of  medium  size.  Japanese  plumed 
cypress,  C.  pisifera  var.  plumosa,  Fig.  116,  foliage  rather 
more  beautiful  than  last  two  but  not  quite  as  hardy. 

American  Arbor- vitse    (Thuya   occidentalis). — A   native 


FIG.  117. — Group  of  Arbor- vitae  and  Flowering  Apple. 


tree  of  beautiful  form  and  color  while  young,  but  soon 
becomes  irregular  and  tends  to  lose  its  lower  branches  as  it 
increases  in  age.  It  has  produced  a  great  many  beautiful 
forms,  some  of  which  are  much  more  valuable  than  the 
original  type.  It  should  not  be  planted  where  there  is  very 
great  exposure  to  prevailing  winds  or  where  teams,  persons, 
or  animals  will  come  in  contact  with  it  during  the  winter. 


212  Landscape  Gardening 

when  the  branches  are  frozen,  for  nothing  is  more  destruc- 
tive to  its  beauty  than  contact  in  zero  weather.  Among 
the  most  valuable  varieties  are  the  following: 

Siberian  Arbor- vitas  (T.  o.,  var.  Wareana,  or  Siberica), 
Fig.  117. — Compact,  dwarf,  conical  in  form,  of  a  much 
darker  green  than  most  of  the  varieties,  and  it  takes  on 
less  of  the  brown  color  during  the  winter  than  any  other 
form  of  the  species;  especially  valuable  for  hedges. 

Pyramidal  Arbor-vitae  (T.  o.,  var.  pyramidalis) .— Of 
close,  compact,  pyramidal  form,  it  serves  a  good  purpose 
where  small  columnar  trees  are  desired.  It  is  .of  about  the 
same  color  as  the  original  type  of  the  species. 

Globe  Arbor-vitae  (T.  o.,  var.  globosa).— Compact 
and  globular  in  form,  of  a  dark-green  color,  and  valuable 
for  low  hedges  or  for  small,  very  low,  round-headed 
trees. 

Golden  Arbor-vitae  (T.  <?.,  var.  aurea). — Several  varieties 
with  golden-tipped  branches  or  with  the  whole  foliage 
of  a  very  light  green  color  are  offered  by  nurserymen, 
and  planted  in  contrast  with  dark  green  varieties  they 
produce  a  very  pleasing  effect.  Perhaps  one  objection  may 
be  urged  against  them,  as  with  other  trees  with  yellow 
foliage,  that  they  have  the  appearance  of  sickly  trees,  but 
when  properly  grouped  they  may  be  made  to  tone  down 
sharp  contrasts  and  to  add  tints  to  groups  not  otherwise 
obtainable.  The  small  varieties  of  evergreens,  junipers, 
arbor- vitaes,  retinosporas,  yews,  etc.,  and  the  dwarf  forms 
of  the  larger  growing  kinds  are  being  largely  used,  banked 
against  the  front  of  verandas,  the  base  of  buildings,  pergolas, 
summer  houses,  etc.  A  variety  of  these  neatly  grouped  in 
this  way  adds  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  grounds  between 
the  lawn  and  the  house  if  the  latter  is  not  too  close  to  the 
road.  However,  in  such  case  great  care  must  be  taken  that 
the  soil  does  not  become  very  dry  during  the  summer,  especi- 


Evergreen  Trees  213 

ally  when  planted  on  the  south  side.  To  prevent  this  a 
spray  of  water  should  be  allowed  to  run  over  the  whole  sur- 
face several  hours  once  or  twice  each  week  in  times  of 
drouth.  They  are  also  liable  to  be  broken  over  by  heavy 
snows  in  winter. 


CHAPTER  XII 

ORNAMENTAL   SHRUBS,   CLIMBING  VINES,  AND 
HEDGE  PLANTS 

FLOWERING   shrubs   and   those   with  brilliantly   colored 
foliage   are   to   ornamental   gardening  what    the  finishing 


FIG.  1 18—  Author's  Weed  Killers. 

touches  are  to  the  picture  or  the  varnishing  is  to  furniture. 
They  help  to  fill  out  the  well-rounded  forms  of  groups  of 
trees  and,  possessing  more  variety  of  colors  of  flowers  and 
foliage  than  the  large  trees,  they  add  beautiful  bits  of  color 

214 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  215 

to  often  otherwise  tame  garden- work.  Many  of  them  supply 
flowers  for  inside  decoration  of  the  rooms.  Being  small  in 
size,  they  are  especially  useful  in  planting  places  of  small 
extent,  are  comparatively  inexpensive,  and  reach  maturity 
in  a  very  short  time.  They  are  very  useful  in  ornamenting 
the  foreground  where  it  is  desired  to  take  in  views  above 
and  beyond  the  limits  of  small  grounds,  and  serve  the  pur- 
pose of  a  setting  or  ornamentation  close  up  to  the  dwelling 
and  over  which  may  be  viewed  the  more  extended  lawn 
decoration.  These  plants  are  better  set  out  in  groups  or 
beds  than  singly,  the  land  being  thoroughly  fitted  by  deep 
spading  in  of  a  liberal  amount  of  fine  stable  manure  and 
some  leaf  mould.  When  planted  in  this  way  the  surface  of 
the  beds  should  be  covered  over  in  the  fall  of  each  year  with 
rich  stable  manure,  the  finer  particles  to  be  spaded  in  the 
next  spring.  Weeds  must  be  kept  down  during  the  summer 
with  hoe  and  rake  and  hand  pulling.  The  author's  weed 
killers  are  shown  in  Fig.  118.  When  shrubs  are  set  in  the 
lawn,  the  soil  around  them  should  be  kept  cultivated,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  134.  Among  the  most  desirable  are  the  fol- 
lowing: 

Azalea,  Pink.  Pepper  Bush,  Sweet. 

Azalea,  Flame-colored.  Dogwood,  Red-twigged. 

Azalea,  Vasey's.  Dogwood,  Variegated. 

Azalea,  Japanese.  Filbert,  Purple-leaved. 

Azalea,  Ghent.  Quince,  Japanese. 

Aralia,  Hercules  Club.  Daphne. 

Aralia,  Japanese.  Deutzia,  Double-flowered. 

Barberry,  Am.  Deutzia,  Slender. 

Barberry,  Dwarf.  Weigela,  Rose-flowered. 

Weigela,  Variegated.  Elder,  Red-fruited. 

Silver-thorn.  Spiraea,  Golden. 

Burning  Bush.  Spiraea,  Bridal- wreath. 

Burning  Bush,  Corky-barked.  Spiraea,  Lobed. 

Exochorda.  Spiraea,  Bumald's. 

Golden-bell.  Spiraea,  Thunberg's 

Golden-bell,  Fortune's.  Spiraea,  Van  Houtte's. 


216  Landscape  Gardening 

Golden-bell,  Weeping.  Snowberry. 

Silver-bell.  Indian  Currant. 

Rose  of  Sharon.  Lilac,  Common. 

Hydrangea,  Japanese.  Lilac,  Persian. 

St.  John's- wort,  Shrubby.  Lilac,  Japanese  Tree. 

Honeysuckle,  Tartarian.  Lilac,  Josikea. 

Mock-orange.  Lilac,  Downy. 

Mock-orange,  Golden.  Cranberry  Bush. 

Mock-orange,  Large-flowered.  Snowball,  Japanese. 

Purple  Fringe  (Smoke  Tree).  Roses,  Bedding. 

White  Fringe.  Roses,  Moss. 

Sumac,  Cut-leaved.  Roses,  Climbing. 

Sumac,  Japanese.  Roses,  Japanese. 

Elder,  Golden.  Rose,  Japanese  Running. 

Pink  Azalea  (Rhododendron  nudiflora). — A  shrub  4  to  6 
feet  in  height,  flowers  pink  to  nearly  white  appearing 
before  or  with  the  leaves.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  of  our 
native  shrubs  and  one  that  succeeds  best  in  rather  cool, 
slightly  shaded  places.  It  is  easily  transplanted  and  may 
be  very  successfully  moved  from  the  borders  of  woods 
to  the  lawn  if  taken  in  clumps  with  something  of  a  bog  upon 
the  roots.  ,  The  plants  are  improved,  however,  if  taken  up 
and  grown  in  a  cool,  somewhat  shaded  nursery  for  a  year  or 
two  before  transplanting  permanently. 

Flame-colored  Azalea  (A.  (R.)  calendulacea). — A  shrub 
4  to  10  feet  high.  Flowers  orange-yellow  or  flame  red,  often 
2  inches  broad,  appearing  with  the  leaves.  A  beautiful 
species  from  the  mountainous  regions  of  the  South  arid 
requiring  a  little  protection  in  New  England,  but  well  worth 
the  little  care  required  to  protect  it  by  setting  up  pine 
boughs  about  it  or  by  tying  up  in  a  thin  covering  of  straw 
or  mats  during  the  winter.  It  succeeds  under  the  same 
treatment  as  the  last. 

Vasey's  Azalea  (A.  (R.)  Vasey). — A  shrub  5  to  15  feet  high. 
This  is  a  comparatively  new  species,  also  a  native  of  the 
Southern  States,  with  beautiful  light  pink  or  rose-colored 
flowers  appearing  before  or  with  the  leaves,  and  thus  far 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc. 


217 


has  proved  hardy.     It  promises  to  be  a  valuable  addition  to 
our  list  of  early-blooming  shrubs. 

Japan  Azaleas  (Rhodendron  sinense  and  japonicum), 
Fig.  119. — The  flowers  of  this  species  are  of  a  great  variety 
of  colors,  ranging  from  almost  pure  white  through  various 


FIG.  119. — Japanese  Azalea  (Azalea  mollis). 

shades  of  yellow  and  orange  to  that  of  dark  orange-red. 
It  is  perfectly  hardy,  but  rather  slow  in  growth,  attains  a 
height  of  from  3  to  8  feet,  and  requires  a  moist  soil  and  a 
little  shelter  from  drying  winds  and  hot  sun. 

Ghent  Azaleas  (R.  Gandavensis). — The  flowers  of  this 
species  are  very  similar  in  colors  to  the  last  and  require 


218  Landscape  Gardening 

about  the  same  treatment.  The  flowers  are  fragrant  in  the 
true  species. 

Hercules'  Club  (Aralia  spinosa). — An  interesting  shrub, 
with  large  compound  leaves  and  a  heavy  panicle  of  white 
flowers  coming  in  early  August.  It  has  the  habit  of  pro- 
ducing suckers  that,  if  left  to  themselves,  are  not  desirable, 
but  by  pulling  up  such  as  are  not  wanted  those  remaining 
grow  luxuriantly  and  the  mass  is  kept  in  a  satisfactory  con- 
dition. It  succeeds  best  in  a  somewhat  sheltered,  warm, 
but  rich  soil.  Its  tendency  to  produce  tall  unbranched 
shoots  may  be  overcome  by  pinching  the  ends  when  2  or  3 
feet  high. 

Japanese  Aralia  (A.  cMnensis). — This  species  resem- 
bles the  last  very  much,  but  with  rather  smaller  and  finer 
leaves,  requiring  the  same  treatment. 

American  Barberry  (Berberis  vulgaris). — This  beauti- 
ful shrub  is  common  throughout  the  Eastern  and  Northern 
States,  and  were  it  less  common  would  be  more  prized  as 
an  ornamental  shrub.  It  grows  with  little  care  and  no 
shrub  is  more  beautiful,  with  its  golden  drooping  clusters 
of  flowers  in  June  and  its  bright  scarlet  fruit  in  autumn 
and  winter.  It  has  the  tendency  to  make  a  rather  strag- 
gling bush,  4  to  8  feet,  but  may  be  forced  to  take  a  com- 
pact bushy  form  by  heading  back  severely  some  of  the  strong 
new  shoots  on  the  inside  when  they  have  reached  the  height  of 
2  or  3  feet.  The  branches  are  grooved  and  gray  in  color. 
It  makes  a  very  desirable  hedge. 

Purple-leaved  Barberry  (B.  vulgaris,  var.  atropurpurea). — 
One  of  the  smallest  purple-leaved  shrubs  and  one  of  the 
best.  It  retains  its  dark  purple  color  through  the  season 
better  than  almost  any  other  tree  or  shrub,  and  is  especially 
desirable  to  plant  in  the  foreground  of  golden  or  light-green- 
leaved  trees  or  shrubs.  Its  golden  flowers  are  rather  more 
conspicuous  on  the  dark  purple  background  of  its  leaves 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc. 


219 


than  those  of  the  common  type,  but  the  fruit  is  not  so  con- 
spicuous.     It    needs  frequent  heading   in  while  young  to 
bring  it  into  a  compact  bushy  form. 
Dwarf    Barberry   (B.    Thunbergii). — A   beautiful   dwarf 


FIG.  120. — Calycanthus  (Calycanthus  floridus). 

shrub  from  Japan,  growing  not  more  than  3  feet  high,  and 
taking  a  broad  compact  form.  The  branches  are  spreading, 
deeply  grooved,  brown,  with  single  spines.  Its  leaves  are 
small  and  numerous,  changing  to  a  beautiful  orange  and  red 
color  in  the  autumn,  and  the  fruit,  about  the  same  size  as  the 
native  species,  is  borne  singly  along  the  under  side  of  the 


220 


Landscape  Gardening 


drooping  branches.  It  is  especially  desirable  for  low  hedges, 
lines,  or  borders.  It  endures  partial  shade  and  is  not 
eaten  by  browsing  animals. 


FIG.  121. — Sweet  Pepper-bush  (Ckthra  ainifolia). 

Calycanthus,  Sweet-scented  Shrub,  Strawberry  Bush,  etc. 
(Calycanthus  floridus),  Fig.  120. — A  very  hardy,  vigorously 
growing  shrub  with  brown  or  chocolate-colored  very  sweet- 
scented  flowers.  It  is  easily  propagated  from  seed,  which 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  221 

it  produces  abundantly,  and  grows  well  on  almost  all  kinds 
of  soil;  not  a  showy  shrub,  but  desirable  for  the  fragrance 
of  its  flowers. 

Sweet  Pepper  Bush  (Clethra  alnifolia),  Fig.  121. — A 
very  hardy  native  shrub,  attaining  a  height  of  3  to  10  feet, 
producing  abundant  spikes  of  beautiful  fragrant  white 
flowers  in  August.  It  has  the  habit  of  spreading  by  sucker 
and  needs  care  that  too  many  of  these  are  not  allowed  to 
grow;  otherwise  the  flowers  will  be  small  and  less  abundant. 
It  thrives  best  in  a  rather  moist,  sandy  or  peaty  soil. 

Red  Dogwood  (Cornus  sanguined}. — A  beautiful  shrub 
of  large  size  and  especially  valuable  for  winter  effect.  The 
branches  are  bright  red,  and  when  planted  in  contrast  with 
low-trained  golden  cornel  or  willow  with  the  snow  for  a  back- 
ground very  beautiful  results  are  often  obtained.  A  group 
of  these  shrubs  in  front  of  evergreens  also  gives  a  good 
contrast.  The  fruits  are  black. 

Variegated-leaved  Dogwood  (C.  alba).— The  leaves  of 
this  shrub  are  most  beautifully  variegated  with  yellow, 
white,  and  green,  and  make  pleasing  contrasts  with  dark- 
green  or  purple-leaved  shrubs.  The  branches  are  of  the 
same  color  as  those  of  the  last.  There  are  also  variegated 
forms  of  other  cultivated  species. 

Purple-leaved  Filbert  (Corylus  Avellana,  var.  atropur- 
purea). — This  shrub  has  the  darkest  foliage  of  any  of  its  size 
that  I  am  acquainted  with.  When  it  first  unfolds  it  is  almost 
black,  but  it  soon  changes  to  a  rich  bronze  green.  It  is 
one  of  the  best  for  planting  in  contrast  with  the  golden- 
leaved  elder,  golden  spiraea,  the  variegated  dog  wood,  or  other 
shrubs  with  bright-colored  foliage.  It  should  not  be  forced 
to  grow  too  rapidly  while  young,  as  it  is  not  quite  hardy  in 
the  extreme  Northern  States.  I  know  of  no  specimen 
of  this  shrub  living  that  is  now  more  than  10  years  old. 
A  purple  form  of  the  common  native  hazelnut,  C.  Ameri- 


222 


Landscape  Gardening 


cana,  has  recently  been  discovered  by  the  author  but  has 
not  been  put  on  the  market.  From  its  hardiness,  ease  of 
growth,  and  beautiful  foliage  it  promises  to  be  one  of  the 


FIG.  122. — Japan  Quince  (Cydonia  Japonica). 


best  purple-leaved  shrubs,  as  it  will  grow  on  every  kind  of 
soil  and  keeps  its  low  form  of  growth. 

Japan  Quince  (Cliaenomeles  japonica},  Fig.  122. — One  of 
the  most  hardy  and  vigorous  of  the  imported  shrubs.  The 
flowers  are  mostly  scarlet,  but  there  are  varieties  in  many 
shades  of  red  and  pink  to  pure  white,  and  as  they  open 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  223 

before  the  leaves  unfold  they  produce  very  brilliant  effects. 
Its  tough,  hard  growth  makes  it  valuable  for  low  hedges, 
which  are  very  ornamental  when  in  blossom.  It  is  difficult 
to  transplant  if  more  than  two  or  three  years  old  from  seed 
or  cuttings. 

Daphne  (Daphne  Mezereum). — This  is  the  earliest  bloomer 
of  all  hardy  flowering  shrubs,  and  its  close  clusters  of  dull 
pink  flowers,  appearing  much  before  the  leaves,  though  not 
very  large  or  showy,  are  fragrant  and  very  pretty  har- 
bingers of  spring.  Attains  a  height  of  4  feet  and  there  are 
yellow  and  white  flowered  varieties. 

Double-flowered  Deutzia  (Deutzia  crenata,  fl.  pL). — 
A  tall,  upright-growing  shrub  with  dark  green  leaves  and 
pendent  racemes  of  pink  or  white  flowers.  It  tends  to 
grow  with  few  lower  branches,  and  some  of  the  inside  canes 
need  cutting  out  occasionally  to  give  it  a  branching  condi- 
tion. If  forced  into  too  much  growth  it  is  often  winter- 
killed. 

Slender  Deutzia  (D.  gracilis). — One  of  the  most  beautiful 
of  small  shrubs  with  delicate  white  flowers  in  abundant 
racemes.  Like  the  last,  it  should  be  grown  rather  slowly  or 
it  will  be  injurod  during  the  winter.  A  slight  protecti  n  of 
pine  boughs  or  straw  will  improve  the  size  and  quantity  of 
the  flowers. 

Rose-flowered  Weigela  (Diermlla  florida,  Fig.  123. — 
This  shrub  grows  about  six  feet  high  with  showy  light  pink, 
rose  or  white  flowers.  While  young,  this  beautiful  shrub  is 
very  satisfactory,  but  after  a  few  years'  growth  it  becomes 
irregular  in  outline.  To  overcome  this  tendency  some  of 
the  old  wood  should  be  cut  out  each  year  after  flowering, 
which  will  result  in  the  growth  of  young  vigorous  shoots 
that  will  produce  an  abundance  of  large  flowers. 

Variegated-leaved  Weigela  (Diermlla  nana,  variegata). — 
The  leaves  of  this  variety  are  beautifully  marked  with 


224 


Landscape  Gardening 


white,  yellow,  and  light  green;   not  so  rapid  in  growth  as 
the  last  and  the  flowers  are  of  a  lighter  color. 


FIG.  123. — Weigela  (Dierwllaflorida). 


Several  other  species  and  varieties  are  offered  by  the  nur- 
serymen, but  none  of  them  is  more  valuable  than  the  above. 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc. 


225 


Silver-thorn  or  Oleaster  (Eleagnus  multiflora). — A  com- 
paratively new  ornamental  shrub  with  yellowish-white  fra- 
grant flowers  in  April  or  May,  and  fruit  of  a  bright  red  color 
which  is  very  ornamental.  It  ripens  in  July  and  August 


FIG.  124. — Exochorda  Racemosa. 

and  hangs  a  long  time  on  the  bushes.  It  is  almost  per- 
fectly hardy,  easily  transplanted,  succeeds  in  almost  any 
soil,  and  attains  a  height  of  six  feet. 

Burning  Bush  or  Euonymus  atropurpurea. — A  tall-grow- 
ing native  shrub  or  small  tree  with  rich  dark  green  foliage 
and  a  showy  fruit,  the  outer  part  of  which  is  crimson  while 


226 


Landscape  Gardening 


the  inner  part  is  scarlet.  This  fruit  hangs  upon  the  bush 
nearly  all  winter  unless  eaten  by  birds. 

Corky-barked  Burning  Bush  (E.  data.) — More  com- 
pact and  bushy  than  the  last  and  with  a  richer  foliage, 
but  does  not  produce  so  much  fruit.  The  branches  have 
2  to  4  broad  corky  wings. 

Pearl    Bush,  Exochorda    (Exochorda    racemosa),    Fig. 


FIG.  125. — Golden-bell  (Forsythia  suspensd). 

124. — One  of  the  best  of  the  recently  introduced  shrubs. 
Attains  a  height  of  5  to  8  feet.  The  foliage  is  of  a  glaucous- 
green  color  and  the  flowers  are  single,  pure  dazzling  white, 
and  borne  in  large  clusters  and  masses.  It  is  hardy,  very 
showy,  and  free  from  disease  and  insects. 

Golden-bell  (Forsythia  viridissima) . — The  brightest 
and  most  attractive  of  the  very  early  flowering  shrubs. 
The  flowers  are  of  the  brightest  yellow  and  produced  all 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  227 

over  the  young  branches.  The  shoots  are  perfectly  hardy, 
but  in  seasons  when  the  peach-buds  are  destroyed  by  cold 
the  flower-buds  suffer  at  the  North  and  fail  to  produce 
flowers. 

Fortune's  Golden-bell  (F.  suspensa  var.  Fortunei).—An 
upright  compact  shrub  producing  more  abundant  and  larger 
flowers  than  the  last. 

Weeping  Golden-bell  (F.  suspensa),  Fig.  125. — Is  pen- 
dent or  weeping  in  habit  and  with  very  abundant  flowers. 
In  many  places  where  a  drooping  growth  is  desired  this  is 
much  superior  to  the  other  species.  Planted  on  the  top  of 
a  bank  wall  the  drooping  branches  cover  the  walls  with 
beautiful  effect. 

Silver-bell  or  Snowdrop  Tree  (Halesia  Carolina). — A 
beautiful  shrub  producing  pure  white  bell-shaped  flowers 
much  like  the  snowdrop,  whence  its  name. 

Rose  of  Sharon  (Hibiscus  syriacus). — This  shrub,  while 
not  perfectly  hardy  north  of  New  York  city,  is  valuable  on 
account  of  its  large  showy  flowers,  which  open  in  August 
and  September.  If  grown  slowly  in  the  border  or  lawn, 
it  lives  to  considerable  age  and  makes  a  very  large  shrub 
or  small  tree  6  to  12  feet  high.  The  flowers  vary  in  color 
from  pure  white  to  the  darkest  crimson  and  blue-purple. 
There  are  many  beautiful  varieties  of  striped  or  mixed 
colors  as  well  as  double  flowers. 

Japanese  Hydrangea  (Hydrangea  paniculata,  var.  grandi- 
flora),  Fig.  126. — Of  the  many  beautiful  shrubs  introduced 
from  Japan  this  is  one  of  the  best,  most  easily  grown,  and 
largely  planted.  The  flowers,  coming  in  August  and  Septem- 
ber, are  very  large  and  showy  and  last  a  long  time.  If 
gathered  at  just  the  right  stage  of  growth  the  flowers  retain 
their  beauty  and  freshness  for  a  long  time  and  make  desirable 
inside  decorations  during  the  winter.  To  get  the  best 
results  in  growing  this  shrub,  the  new  growth  should  be 


228 


Landscape  Gardening 


cut  back  severely  in  the  fall  or  before  growth  begins  in  the 
spring,  in  many  cases  to  two  or  three  buds  to  each  branch 


only,  for  the  smaller  the  number  of  buds  allowed  to  grow  the 
stronger  the   shoots,  and  the  size  of   the  panicles  will  be 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc. 


229 


in  proportion  to  the  vigor  of  these  shoots.    The  original 
form  of  this  shrub,  when  there  are  only  a  few  sterile  flowers, 
is  rather  more  beautiful  but  not  quite  so  showy. 
Pterostyrax  (Pterostyrax  hispida),  Fig.  127.— One  of  the 


FIG.  127.— Pterostyrax  (Pterostyrax  hispida). 

most  beautiful  large  flowering  shrubs.  It  requires  a  deep, 
rather  light  soil  and  a  little  shelter.  Should  be  more  gen- 
erally planted  than  it  now  is. 

Shrubby    St.    John's- wort    (Hypericum    aureum). — One 
of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  low  flowering  shrubs,  the  flowers 


230 


Landscape  Gardening 


being  like  little  tassels  of  gold  and  the  foliage  of  a  rich  glau- 
cous green.  It  is  not,  however,  a  long-lived  shrub,  requiring 
considerable  petting  after  five  or  six  years  of  growth. 

Tartarian  Honeysuckle    (Lonicera  tartarica). — Some   of 
the  more  brilliantly  colored  flowered  varieties  of  this  species 


FIG.  128. — Mock-orange,  Large-flowered  (Philadelphus  grandiflorus). 

are  very  desirable.  It  makes  a  very  large  upright  shrub, 
the  flowers  ranging  from  red,  through  pink  or  yellow  to 
white,  followed  by  bright  scarlet  or  yellow  berries. 

Mock  Orange  (Philadelphus  coronarius). — Often  called 
the  syringa,  but  as  this  is  the  Latin  name  of  the  lilac 
it  cannot  be  properly  applied  to  this  plant.  It  is 
well  called  the  mock-orange,  for  its  flowers  somewhat 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  231 


FIG.  129. — White  Fringe  (Chionanthus  virginica). 


232  Landscape  Gardening 

resemble  the  orange-blossom,  and  are  equally  fragrant, 
though  with  not  so  delicate  a  perfume.  It  grows  to  a  large 
size,  but  retains  its  regular  rounded  bush  form  even  when 
of  great  age.  The  shrub  will  be  greatly  improved  in  form 
if  now  and  then  a  large  central  branch  is  cut  out. 

Golden-leaved  Mock  Orange  (P.  c.,  var.  aureus}.— 
Very  similar  in  leaf  and  flower  to  the  last,  but  of  a  smaller 
growth,  and  with  leaves  that  are  of  a  bright  golden  color 
when  young,  but  changing  to  a  light  green  during  the  latter 
part  of  the  summer.  In  contrast  with  the  purple  barberry, 
purple  hazel  nut,  or  other  similarly  colored  foliage-shrubs 
it  produces  most  beautiful  effects. 

Large-flowered  Mock  Orange  (P.  inodorus),  Fig.  128. 
— A  shrub  of  large,  coarse  growth,  producing  conspicuous 
single,  white,  non-odorous  flowers  the  last  of  June. 

White  Fringe  (Chionanthus  virginica),  Fig.  129. — One 
of  the  most  beautiful  of  our  flowering  shrubs,  with  its  some- 
what stiff  upright  branches  fringed  with  lace-like  white 
flowers.  Its  blossoms  last  but  a  short  time,  but  the  heavy 
dark-green  foliage  is  ornamental  all  summer.  If  planted 
in  too  rich  soil  it  is  sometimes  winter-killed,  and  should  be 
grown  rather  slowly  to  cause  a  more  thorough  ripening  of 
the  wood. 

Purple  Fringe  or  Smoke  Bush  (Rhus  Cotinus),  Fig.  130. 
— The  beautiful  mass  of  filaments  produced  about  the 
flowers  and  fruit  of  this  plant,  often  called  "  smoke  "  or 
"  mist,"  is  a  most  conspicuous  and  beautiful  object  in  well- 
grown  specimens  on  the  lawn  or  in  the  garden.  To  succeed 
best  it  must  be  grown  slowly;  if  forced  into  a  rapid  growth 
in  a  rich  border  it  is  likely  to  be  injured  by  cold  and  soon 
die,  while  if  grown  more  slowly  in  the  lawn  it  often  reaches 
a  large  size,  when  it  becomes  a  most  beautiful  object. 

Cut-leaved  Sumac  (R.  glabra,  var.  laciniata). — This 
is  a  cut-leaved  form  of  our  native  smooth  sumac.  It  takes 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  233 

• 

a  rather  straggling  form  and  needs  full  exposure  to  make 
it  grow  stocky  and  erect.  It  has  one  objectionable  feature 
common  to  all  of  the  native  species  of  sumacs, — that  of 


FIG.  130. — Purple  Fringe  (Rhus  Cotinus). 

throwing  up  suckers  from  the  roots,  and  often  at  consider- 
able distance  from  the  original  shrub, — but  this  objection 
can  be  easily  overcome  by  pulling  up  the  suckers  (never 
cut  them  off  at  the  surface),  and  putting  all  fertilizers  or 
manures  close  up  to  the  center  of  the  shrub.  Its  beautiful 


234 


Landscape  Gardening 


FIG.  131, — Stag-Horn  Sumac  (Rhus.  typhina). 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  235 

fern-like  leaves  that  color  so  brilliantly  in  the  autumn  make 
it  well  worth  all  the  care  required  to  keep  it  in  good  form  and 
within  desired  limits. 

Staghorn  Sumac  (R.  typhina),  Fig.  131. — This  species 
and  other  native  species  possess  great  beauty  in  leaf,  flowers 
and  fruit,  but  they  spread  so  much  from  the  roots  that  it 
is  difficult  to  keep  them  within  desired  limits.  This  condition 
may  be  overcome  in  a  measure  by  applying  fertilizing 
material  only  in  the  center  of  the  space  occupied  by  them; 
cutting  down  through  the  roots  with  a  spade  will  cause  buds 
to  grow  where  desired. 

Japan  Sumac  (R.  semialata,  var.  Osbeckii). — A  very 
large,  strong-growing  shrub  or  small  tree,  with  large  com- 
pound leaves  changing  to  beautiful  colors  in  the  autumn. 
The  panicles  of  flowers  are  very  large,  nearly  pure  white, 
and  open  very  late  in  the  summer. 

Golden  Elder  (Sambucus  nigra,  var.  aurea). — One  of 
the  brightest  golden-colored  shrubs,  the  leaves  retaining 
their  bright  color  longer  than  almost  any  other.  It  is, 
however,  rather  short-lived. 

Red-fruited  Elder  (S.  pubens). — A  native  shrub,  orna- 
mental both  in  flower  and  in  fruit.  Berries  in  large  clusters 
and  bright  red. 

Golden  Spiraea  (Spir&a  opuli  folia,  var.  aurea). — The  lar- 
gest golden-leaved  shrub  we  have,  but  of  rather  coarse  growth 
and  the  leaves  soon  fade  to  a  light  green.  Desirable  as  a 
background  for  smaller  shrubs  of  a  darker  color,  or  to  plant  in 
front  of  purple-leaved  small  trees. 

Bridal-wreath  Spiraea  (S.  prunifolia),  Fig.  132.— One 
of  the  oldest  and  most  hardy  of  the  spiraeas  and  very  largely 
planted.  This  is  one  of  the  tall  spiraeas  and  it  produces  long, 
slender  branches  that  in  the  spring  are  covered  with  beautiful 
white  double  flowers.  These  branches  may  be  bent  around 
so  as  to  form  a  very  perfect  wreath,  whence  the  name.  It 


236 


Landscape  Gardening 


has  an  upright  habit  of  growth,  producing  very  few  lateral 
branches,  so  that  severe  pruning  should  be  given  to  a  few 
of  the  strongest  canes  after  blooming  in  the  spring.  Never 
prune  the  spiraeas  in  the  fall,  winter  or  spring  before  bloom- 
ing if  an  abundance  of  flowers  is  desired.  Like  all  the 


FIG.  132. — Bridal  wreath  (Spir&a  pruni folia) 


other  species  of  this  genus,  the  flowers  last  but  a  short 
time. 

Lobed-leaved  Spiraea  (S.  trilobaota). — A  dwarf  grower, 
4  feet  high,  with  slender  branches,  producing  large  masses 
of  white  flowers. 

Bumald's  Spiraea  (S.  Bumalda). — A  dwarf  shrub,  rarely 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  237 


y 

I 


238 


Landscape  Gardening 


exceeding  two  feet,  with  large  quantities    of    rose-colored 
flowrers. 


FIG.  134. — Common  Lilac,  Tree-shaped  (Syringa   vulgaris). 

Thunberg's  Spiraea  (S.   Thunbergii)—The  most  grace- 
ful and  beautiful  of  the  spiraea  while  young.     The  flowers 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  239 

are  pure  white.  The  foliage  is  fine  and  fern-like,  and  changes 
to  a  beautiful  golden-orange  color  late  in  the  autumn.  It 
attains  a  height  of  5  feet,  but  needs  cutting  back  severely 
to  cause  the  lower  branches  to  grow  with  vigor.  Taking 
out  here  and  there  a  large  branch  down  to  the  ground  will 
strengthen  those  remaining  and  make  the  shrubs  more  bushy 
and  compact. 

Van  Houtte's  Spiraea  (S.  Van  Houttei),  Fig.  133.— The 
finest  of  all  the  spiraas  and  quite  hardy.  It  is  dwarf  in  habit, 
5-7  feet  high,  with  graceful  pendulous  branches  that,  when 
in  bloom,  are  weighted  down  with  pure  white  blossoms. 
The  flowers  are  of  very  short  duration,  but  the  foliage  is 
good. 

Waterer's  Spiraea  (S.  Bumalda,  var.  Anthony  Water  er). 
— Resembling  the  Bumalda,  but  with  the  most  beautiful 
large  clusters  of  pink  flowers,  and  continues  to  bloom  through- 
out the  summer  more  or  less  if  the  clusters  are  cut  off  before 
the  seed-vessels  mature. 

Snowberry  (Symphoricarpus  racemosus). — A  very  pretty 
^Id-fashioned  shrub,  the  white  berries  of  which  are  orna- 
mental until  early  winter,  and  especially  in  contrast  with 
the  fruit  of  the  closely  allied  species  S.  vulgaris,  the 
Indian  currant,  and  that  of  the  barberry. 

Common  Lilac  (Syringa  vulgaris),  Fig.  134. — This  is  a 
very  desirable  shrub  because  of  its  hardiness  and  the  many 
associations  connected  with  the  old  homesteads  of  the 
earlier  settlers  of  the  country.  Many  of  the  improved 
varieties  possess  more  beauty  than  the  original  types  and 
are  equally  hardy.  Amlng  the  best  are  Beranger,  Ccerulea 
superba  and  nana,  Prof.  Sargent,  Pres.  Grevy,  etc. 

Persian  Lilac  (S.  persica). — This  lilac  is  of  medium 
size,  with  small,  bright-green  leaves  and  large  compound 
panicles  of  rather  brighter  flowers  than  the  common  species. 
It  is  also  rather  more  graceful  in  outline  than  the  latter 


240 


Landscape  Gardening 


and,  like  it,  has  a  great  many  varieties.     Among  the  best 
are  the  white  form  and  Rothmagensis  rubra. 

Japan  Lilac  (S.  japonica). — The  largest  of  the  lilacs, 
making  a  small  tree.  The  leaves  are  large,  dark  green, 
and  the  very  large  panicles  of  white  flowers  are  produced  in 
June.  It  has  thus  far  proved  perfectly  hardy  and  is  desirable. 


FIG.  135. — Japanese  Snowball  (Viburnum  plicatum) 

Josikea's  Lilac  (S.  Josikad).— Another  tree-like  lilac, 
somewhat  resembling  the  last,  but  producing  delicate  pink 
flowers  in  early  June. 

Downy  Lilac  (L.  villosa). — A  new  species  of  a  some- 
what tree-like  habit,  with  fragrant  light  purple  flowers 
which  change  to  almost  white. 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  241 

Cranberry-shrub  (Viburnum  Opulus). — A  native  shrub 
with  numerous  conspicuous  sterile  flowers  intermixed  with 
the  fertile  ones,  followed  by  bright  red  or  scarlet  fruit  that 
hangs  on  the  branches  nearly  all  winter.  It  is  hardy  and 
succeeds  under  nearly  all  conditions.  The  variety  with  all 
sterile  flowers  is  known  as  the  Common  Snowball  Bush, 
but  this  is  so  subject  to  the  attack  of  insects  that  it  has  been 
discarded  for  the  Japanese  species. 

Japanese  Snowball  (V.  tomentosum,  var.  plicatum),  Fig. 
135. — The  leaves  of  this  shrub  are  of  a  bright  green  color  and 
with  a  beautifully  plicated  or  plaited  surface;  the  sterile 
flowers  are  borne  in  large  clusters,  are  pure  white,  very  per- 
fect, and  much  superior  to  those  of  the  native  snowball 
bush.  It  is  difficult  to  transplant  when  of  large  size,  but 
young  shrubs  can  be  transplanted  with  little  or  no  difficulty. 

Hairy  Viburnum  (V.  tomentosum). — This  has  rather  more 
beautiful  and  large  panicles  with  only  a  few  large  white 
sterile  bracts  in  each.  It  is  rather  more  effective  on  the 
lawn  than  the  snowball. 

Roses 

More  people  appreciate  the  beauty  and  value  of  the  rose 
than  that  of  any  other  flower,  but  comparatively  few  suc- 
ceed in  growing  it  to  its  greatest  perfection.  It  succeeds 
best  in  a  deep  rich  soil,  rather  moist  and  of  somewhat  a 
clayey  nature.  More  persons  fail  in  growing  the  rose  from 
not  making  the  soil  rich  enough  than  from  any  other 
cause. 

Perhaps  the  best  line  of  treatment  is  to  spade  the  bed  18 
to  24  inches  deep,  working  in  a  layer  6  inches  thick  of  fine 
rotted  cow  manure  and  leaf  mould  to  the  full  depth,  and  every 
fall  banking  up  against  each  plant  a  foot  or  more  with  coarse 
stable  manure  for  protection.  In  the  spring  this  manure 
should  be  spread  on  the  surface  of  the  bed  and  spaded  in 


242  Landscape  Gardening 

4  to  6  inches  deep,  and  if  the  soil  is  not  too  thin  and  dry 
a  good  growth  and  an  abundance  of  blossoms  will  result. 

Pruning. — In  pruning  the  work  may  be  done  either  in 
the  fall  or  in  March,  the  latter  time  being  generally  pre- 
ferred. In  this  work  the  bushes  should  be  so  pruned  as  to 
obtain  a  limited  number  of  the  strongest  canes  possible. 
The  stronger  the  canes  the  larger  will  be  the  flowers.  All 
weak  shoots  should  be  either  severely  cut  back  or  entirely 
removed  and  the  strong  canes  headed  back  one-half  or  two- 
thirds,  varying  the  treatment  somewhat  with  the  variety 
and  the  size  and  number  of  flowers  required;  some  varie- 
ties, especially  the  very  strong  growing  ones,  needing  less 
pruning  than  others,  but  with  all  varieties  the  smaller  the 
number  of  shoots  the  larger  will  be  the  flowers. 

The  climbing,  briar  and  moss  roses  should  not  be  pruned 
except  to  take  out  old  or  weak  canes  and  to  remove  the  dead 
tips  of  shoots. 

Winter  Protection. — Banking  up  against  the  collar  of 
the  bushes  a  foot  or  more  with  soil  or  manure  should  be 
practised  with  all  outdoor  roses,  and  most  of  them  will  be 
much  benefited  by  tying  up  in  coarse  rye-straw  or  mats. 
Pine  boughs  set  up  closely  about  them  for  the  winter  will 
improve  the  quality  of  the  blossoms  very  greatly. 

Varieties. — We  may  divide  the  varieties  most  commonly 
grown  into  bedding  roses,  briar  roses  and  climbing  roses. 
In  the  first  group  we  would  include  the  hybrid  perpetual, 
hybrid  tea,  tea  and  dwarf  polyantha  roses.  The  briars  in- 
clude the  rugosas,  rugosa  hybrids,  and  Persian  and  Austrian 
roses.  The  climbers  include  many  climbing  varieties  of  the 
classes  enumerated  under  group  one,  as  well  as  the  natural 
climbers. 

BEDDING  ROSES:  HYBRID  PERPETUALS,  Fig.  136. — Ameri- 
can Beauty,  Alfred  Colomb,  Anne  de  Diesbach,  Baroness 
Rothschild,  Captain  Hayward,  Clio,  Frau  Karl  Druschki, 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc. 


243 


General  Jacqueminot,  La  Reine,  Magna  Charta,  Mrs.  R.  G. 
Sharman  Crawford,  Paul  Neyron,  Prince  Camille  de  Rohan, 
Ulrich  Brunner. 

HYBRID  TEAS. — Antoine  Riviore,  Bessie  Brown,  Captain 
Christy,  Caroline  Testout,  General  McArthur,  Gloire  Lyon- 
noise,  Gruss  an  Teplitz,  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  Kil- 
larney,  La  France,  Souvenir  du  President  Carnot,  Rich- 
mond, White  Killarney,  Viscountess  Folkestone. 


FlG,  136. — Bedding  Roses. 

DWARF  POLYANTHA  ROSES. — Annchen  Muller,  Baby 
Rambler,  Baby  Dorothy,  Baby  Tausendschon,  Catherine 
Zeimet,  Clothilde  Soupert,  Marie  Pavie,  Mignonette,  Jessie, 
Orleans,  and  White  Pet. 

TEA  ROSES. — Bon  Silene,  Bride,  Bridesmaid,  Catherine 
Mermet,  Mme.  Joseph  Schwartz,  Maman  Cochet,  Papa 
Gontier,  Safrano,  and  White  Maman  Cochet.  This  group 
requires  extra  protection  north  of  Philadelphia,  but  is  ex- 


244 


Landscape  Gardening 


ceedingly  valuable  for  planting  in  California  and  in  the 
South. 

BRIAR  ROSES.— The  Persian  Yellow,  Austrian  Copper  and 
Harrison's  Yellow  belong  to  this  group.  The  two  forms  of 
ROSA  RUGOSA  (white  and  red)  and  their  hybrids  are  very. 


FIG.  137. — Moss  Rose. 

useful  in  landscape  planting,  as  their  foliage  is  more  resistant 
to  the  rose  pests.  The  rugosa  itself  is  immune  to  the  attacks 
of  the  leaf  hopper  and  the  saw-fly  larva  which  are  so  destruc- 
tive to  the  foliage  of  most  roses. 

CLIMBING  ROSES  (Fig.  139). — American  Pillar,  Baltimore 
Belle,  Prairie  Queen,  Crimson  Rambler.  Dorothy  Perkins, 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  245 


FIG.  138.— Mixed  Climbers. 


246 


Landscape  Gardening 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  247 

White  Dorothy,  Dawson,  Excelsa,  Lady  Gay,  Tausendschon, 
Seven  Sisters,  Shower  of  Gold,  and  Yellow  Rambler.  In 
the  South  and  in  California  many  beautiful  climbing  roses 
which  are  too  tender  for  the  North  are  planted  in  place  of  the 
above.  Among  these  are  Marechal  Niel,  Cloth  of  Gold, 
William  Allen  Richardson,  Lamarque,  Gloire  de  Dijon, 
R.  Banksice,  T,  moschata,  and  R.  l&vigata. 


FIG.  140. — Japanese  Rose  (Rosa  rugosa). 

There  are  other  classes  of  roses  suitable  for  certain  posi- 
tions. The  Wichuriana,  or  Memorial  rose,  is  usually  allowed 
to  train  on  the  ground,  where  its  pure  white  single  flowers 
with  golden  yellow  stamens  are  very  effective.  The  moss 
roses  (Fig.  137)  were  often  planted  in  old  gardens.  Among 
the  best  varieties  are  Common  Moss,  Crested  Moss,  Princess 
Adelaide,  and  White  Bath. 

ROSA  RUGOSA  (Fig.  140)  and  R.  humilis  are  especially 
valuable  in  landscape  work  for  planting  in  shrub  borders  and 


248 


Landscape  Gardening 


FIG.  141. — Climbing  Rose.     (Dawson.) 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  249 

for  covering  slopes  and  rocky  ridges.  Rosa  rugosa  and  R. 
lucida  are  desirable  hedge  plants.  The  fruits  of  most  species 
of  the  rose  are  very  decorative.  The  red  stems  of  Rosa  lucida, 
etc.,  are  very  effective  in  the  winter  landscape.  The  autumn 
foliage  colors  of  R.  rugosa  and  most  of  the  American  species 
are  effective.  The  Sweetbrier  or  Eglantine  (R.  rubiginosa) 
has  foliage  which  exhales  an  agreeable  aromatic  odor.  Rosa 
rubrifolia  has  red  foliage  throughout  the  season. 

Evergreen  Shrubs 

If  we  should  omit  the  evergreen  shrubs  from  our  list  of 
ornamental  material,  we  should  lose  much  that  is  most 
beautiful  and  very  popular  on  all  the  best  places  in  the 
country.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  great  beauty  of  the 
kalmias  and  the  rhododendrons,  they  add  so  much  beauty 
and  finish  to  every  place  where  used.  In  our  climate, 
where  the  sun  shines  with  great  fierceness,  they  do  not  suc- 
ceed except  under  conditions  of  some  shelter  from  the  hot 
sun  and  drying  winds.  Protection  from  the  sun  during 
winter  months  is  especially  desirable,  as  the  alternate  freezing 
and  thawing  causes  damage  to  the  foliage  and  flower  buds. 
If  possible,  naturally  protected  locations  should  be  selected, 
but  where  these  are  not  available  artificial  protection  during 
the  winter  must  be  provided  by  means  of  pine  boughs,  boxes, 
etc.,  set  up  around  them.  Too  close  covering  should  be 
avoided,  as  with  a  very  close  box,  barrel,  or  close  straw 
covering.  All  that  is  required  is  shelter  from  fierce  drying 
winds  and  the  burning  sun  during  the  winter.  If  a  box  is 
used,  it  should  be  with  openings  on  the  north  or  west  side, 
to  allow  a  free  circulation  of  air  about  them.  Some  of  the 
best  varieties  are: 

Boxwood.  Rhododendron  Maxima. 

Laurel,  Mountain.  Rhododendron  Catawbiense. 

Holly,  American.  Andromeda. 


250  Landscape  Gardening 

Boxwood  (Buxus  sempervirens) . — This  little  beautiful 
evergreen  shrub  is  fast  becoming  extinct  in  the  northern 
sections  of  the  Middle  and  Eastern  States,  where  a  quarter 
of  a  century  ago  it  was  largely  used  for  a  low  hedge  or 
border  or  as  specimen  plants.  It  succeeds  best  in  a  rather 
moist,  somewhat  shaded  place,  but  soon  fails  where  planted 
in  thin  soil  or  a  southern  exposure.  Where  a  low,  formal 
outline  is  desired  for  edges  of  walks  or  beds,  it  serves  a  good 
purpose,  but  lacks  the  graceful  natural  beauty  of  the  laurel 
or.Mahonia. 

Mountain-laurel  (Kdmia  latifolia),  Fig.  142. — One  of  the 
most  beautiful  evergreen  shrubs  in  the  world,  found  grow- 
ing wild  in  nearly  every  State  east  of  the  Rockies  in  hilly 
or  mountainous  regions.  It  succeeds  best  in  partial  shade 
or  cool  northern  slopes  and  in  rather  moist  soil.  It  is 
difficult  to  transplant,  and  if  taken  from  the  fields  or  woods 
only  small  plants  must  be  used  and  these  must  be  dug  with 
a  considerable  ball  of  earth  upon  the  roots.  If  planted  in 
a  very  much  exposed  situation,  protection  of  pine  boughs 
should  be  given  during  the  winter. 

American  Holly  (Ilex  opaca). — A  native  shrub  with 
leaves  and  berries  closely  resembling  the  European  holly. 
In  exposed  places  north  of  Washington,  D.  C.,  the  leaves 
turn  dark  brown  during  the  winter  and  are  often  injured  by 
the  hot  sun.  Should  be  planted  in  shelter,  shaded  from 
the  hot  sun  and  protected  during  the  winter  with  pine 
boughs. 

Rhododendron,  Great  Laurel  (R.  maximum). — A  native 
shrub  found  growing  in  shady  places  along  the  coast  from 
Maine  to  Florida  is  being  much  used,  and  serves  a  good 
purpose  if  planted  in  the  shade  in  rather  moist,  porous^soil. 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  251 


FIG.  142. — Mountain-laurel  (Kalmia  latifolia). 


252 


Landscape  Gardening 


If  half  decayed  leaves  or  peaty  soil  is  used  thoroughly  worked 
into  the  soil  and  a  mulch  of  leaves  or  peaty  soil  put  on  the 
surface  during  the  summer  each  season,  these  shrubs  will  be 
sure  to  make  a  good  growth. 

Mountain-rhododendron  (R.  Catawbiense  hybrids),  Fig. 
143. — The  most  showy  of  all  of  the  flowering  shrubs  when  in 
bloom  and  during  the  winter  on  account  of  its  large  dark- 


FIG.  143. — Rhododendron  Catawbiense. 


green  leaves.  It  succeeds  best  in  a  rather  moist,  fibrous 
soil,  as  described  above,  but  does  well  in  almost  any  kind  if 
it  is  made  porous,  not  too  dry,  and  if  the  plants  are  sheltered 
from  the  burning  sun  during  the  winter.  While  young  especi- 
ally, pine  boughs  or  some  other  protection  should  be  put  up 
around  them  to  keep  the  leaves  from  burning  and  to  keep 
off  fierce  drying  winds. 

The  number  of  varieties  offered  by  nurserymen  is  very 
large,  but  a  comparatively  small  number  of  them  are  hardy 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc. 


253 


in  northern  New  England.  Some  of  the  best  varieties  for 
general  planting  are  Album  elegans,  Everestianum,  Superba 
elegans,  Roseum  elegans,  Speciosa,  etc. 

Andromeda    (Andromeda   floribunda). — A    very    pretty 
shrub,   producing  an  abundance  of  white  flowers  in   the 


FIG.  144. — Rhododendron  Prepared  for  Shipment. 

early  spring.     Requires  much  the  same  treatment  as  the 
rhododendron. 

Climbing  Shrubs  or  Vines 

Without  climbing  vines  many  beautiful  homes  would 
present  a  sad  and  unprotected  picture  during  our  hot  sum- 
mers. They  grow  quickly,  cover  pergolas,  verandas,  por- 
ticoes, porches,  arbors,  walls,  fences,  well  curbs,  etc.,  with  a 


254 


Landscape  Gardening 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  255 


FIG.  146. — American  Woodbine, 


256  Landscape  Gardening 

living  green  that  is  far  more  beautiful  than  any  artificial 
structure  and  affording  grateful  shade  during  our  hot  sum- 
mer days.  Fig.  145  shows  a  vine-covered  cottage  in  June, 
covered  with  roses,  Actinidia  arguta  and  Parthenocissus 
quinquefolia,  with  a  group  of  ferns  at  the  foot  of  the  porch 
on  the  right.  On  the  left  is  a  large  specimen  of  Philadelphus 
coronarius,  while  on  the  right  is  one  of  Philadelphus  grandi- 
flora.  Among  the  best  of  this  group  are  the  following : 

Woodbine,  Japanese.  Honeysuckle,  Japanese. 

Woodbine,  American.  Wistaria,  Chinese. 

Clematis  or  Virgin's-bower.  Wistaria,  White. 

Clematis,  White.  Actinidia. 

Clematis,  Jackman's.  Trumpet-creeper. 

Clematis,  Jap,  Sweet-scented.  Grape  Vines. 

Woodbine  (Parthenocissus  quinquefolia},  Fig.  146. — This 
beautiful  native  vine  is  very  useful  for  covering  arbors, 
trellises,  verandas,  fences,  half-dead  trees,  stumps,  etc.  It  is 
a  rapid  grower,  is  beautiful  in  foliage  and  in  fruit,  especially 
in  its  autumnal  tints.  The  fruit  is  the  size  of  a  pea,  dark 
purple  covered  with  a  blue  bloom.  It  is  also  free  from  insect 
or  fungous  attacks,  but  requires  some  support  on  smooth 
surfaces,  when  it  reaches  large  size,  the  tendrils  not  being 
strong  enough  to  hold  up  its  increasing  weight.  Thrives  in 
almost  any  soil.  Exceedingly  valuable  for  its  autumn 
coloration. 

Japanese  Woodbine,  Boston  Ivy  (P.  tricuspidata,  var. 
Veitchii),  Fig.  147. — By  far  the  finest  vine  we  have  for  cover- 
ing stone  and  brick  buildings,  walls,  etc.  It  grows  rapidly, 
clings  firmly  by  its  numerous  disk-tendrils,  and  does  not 
run  across  openings  formed  by  doors  and  windows.  It 
colors  up  most  beautifully  in  the  autumn  and  is  easily 
propagated  from  seeds  or  cuttings.  The  leaves  are  three 
lobed,  hence,  its  scientific  name.  It  stands  dust  and  smoke, 
well. 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc. 


257 


258  Landscape  Gardening 

Virgin's-bower  (Clematic  mrginiana).—A  beautiful  native 
climbing  shrub,  with  large  clusters  of  white  flowers  in  July 
followed  in  September  by  the  beautiful  tasselled  fruit.  Not 
much  planted  in  cultivated  grounds,  but  is  worthy  of  cul- 
tivation in  even  the  most  pretentious  places,  and  would  be 


FIG.  148. — Japanese  Clematis  (Clematis  paniculate?) . 

much  more  largely  used  were  it  not  so  common  along  the 
roadsides  and  fences. 

Jackman's  Clematis  (C.  Jackmanii),  Fig.  149.— A 
beautiful  climbing  vine,  but,  like  all  of  the  species  of  the 
clematis,  the  canes  are  very  weak  and  easily  injured  or 
broken.  The  flowers  are  intense  violet-purple,  large,  and 
much  out  of  proportion  to  the  weak  vine.  When  planted 
in  a  sheltered  place  with  wire  netting  to  protect  it  from 
being  broken,  it  often  grows  well. 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc. 


259 


White  Clematis  (C.  Henryi).—  Flowers  of  the  same  size 
and  form  as  the  last,  but  pure  white  in  color. 


FIG.  149. — Clematis  Jackmanii,  and  Henryi. 

Japanese  or  Sweet-scented  Clematis  (C.  paniculata) , 
Fig.  148. — A  rapid-growing  vine,  producing  clusters  of  star- 
shaped  sweet-scented  white  flowers  in  wonderful  profusion 
in  September.  A  beautiful  addition  to  our  list  of  late- 
flowering  climbing  plants. 


260 


Landscape  Gardening 


Japanese  Honeysuckle  (Lonicera  Japonica,  var.  Hal- 
liana),  Fig.  150. — This  vine  has  the  advantage  that  it  will 
"grow"  under  almost  any  condition.  The  flowers  are 


FIG.  150. — Japanese  Honeysuckle  (Lonicera  Japonica  Halliana). 

yellow,  changing  to  a  pure  white,  and  are  fragrant  and 
abundant  from  June  to  September.  It  should  be  trained 
to  wire  netting  or  some  other  support,  for  if  allowed  to  lie 
on  the  ground  every  branch  will  take  root  and  it  becomes 
difficult  to  eradicate  it,  except  by  constant  pulling  and 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc. 


261 


hoeing  up  of  all  suckers  not  desired,  which  often  results  in 
injury  to  the  main  shoots.     With  a  slight  protection  of 


FIG.  151.  Chinese  Wistaria  (Wistaria  sinensis). 

leaves,  straw,  or  pine  boughs,  or  by  the  vines  lying  on  the 
ground,  the  leaves  remain  perfectly  green  nearly  all  winter, 


262 


Landscape  Gardening 


r 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  263 

but  in  full  exposure  they  turn  brown  during  the  latter  part 
of  winter  and  are  anything  but  ornamental.  This  is  a 
valuable  shrub  for  covering  dry  or  steep  embankments 
which  are  difficult  to  cover  with  grass. 

Chinese  Wistaria  (Wistaria  spinensis),  Fig.  151. — One 
of  the  most  rapidly  growing  vines,  producing  large  pendent 
panicles  of  light  blue  flowers  in  great  profusion.  It  is  one  of 
the  few  vines  that  will  twine  around  large  supports,  pillars 
of  verandas,  or  arbors. 

White  Wistaria  (W.  c.,  var.  alba). — Like  the  last  in 
growth,  but  producing  white  flowers. 

Actinidia  (Actinidia  arguta),  Fig.  152. — More  vigorous 
even  than  the  wistaria  and  with  better  foliage,  but  the 
flowers  are  inconspicuous.  It  will  cover  an  arbor  or 
trellis  more  quickly  than  any  vine  we  have.  Some  of  the 
vines  produce  a  small  green  fruit  that  one  soon  learns  to  like, 
and  makes  a  most  delicious  preserve.  Native  of  Japan. 
Entirely  free  from  any  insect  attack. 

Another  species  of  Silver  Sweet  Vine  (A,  polygama), 
has  been  introduced,  resembling  the  last-named  species, 
not  so  vigorous,  but  one-half  of  each  leaf  at  the  ends 
of  the  growing  shoots  changes  on  the  upper  surface  to  a 
glistening  white,  making  it  a  most  strikingly  beautiful  vine. 
Cats  are  especially  fond  of  it,  and  while  young,  protection 
of  wire  netting  needs  to  be  put  up  around  to  keep  them  from 
tearing  the  vines  in  pieces. 

Bitter  Sweet  (Celastrus  scandens). — A  most  beautiful 
vine  with  inconspicuous  fragrant  flowers  which  are  followed 
in  the  autumn  by  clusters  of  bright  orange  berries  like  fruits 
which  when  mature  burst  open  and  expose  bright  pink  inner 
seeds.  It  is  subject  to  the  attack  of  a  large  scale-like  aphis 
which  often  so  weakens  the  vine  as  to  make  it  of  little  value. 
Spraying  with  a  weak  solution  of  lime  sulphur  in  July  will 
destroy  most  of  these  pests. 


264 


Landscape  Gardening 


Trumpet-creeper  (Campsis  radicans) . — Where  hardy  ? 
this  is  a  very  beautiful  and  satisfactory  climber,  though 
it  will  not  hold  itself  to  the  walls  of  buildings  and  trellis- 
supports  as  well  as  many  others.  North  of  42°  of 
latitude  it  must  be  protected  during  the  winter  with  some 
light,  airy  covering  or  be  grown  slowly  in  grass  borders. 
The  trumpet-shaped  flowers  of  a  deep  orange  red  are  borne 


FIG.  153. — Grapevine  Covering  Old  Stable. 

in  large  clusters  and  form  very  pleasing  contrasts  with  the 
dark  green  foliage. 

Grape  Vines  (Vitis  sp.),  Fig.  153. — For  covering 
arbors,  pergolas,  verandas,'  porches,  stone  walls,  ledges  or 
trained  to  a  trellis  for  a  screen,  etc.,  there  is  nothing  more 
satisfactory  than  grape  vines,  and  the  fruit,  if  the  vines 
are  properly  trained,  may  be  of  considerable  value.  The 
varieties  best  suited  for  this  work  are  Concord,  Delaware, 
Brighton,  Diamond,  etc, 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc, 


265 


266  Landscape  Gardening 

For  the  best  results  they  need  be  planted  on  a  southern 
exposure  in  a  well-drained  soil,  and  be  carefully  trimmed  each 
season — at  any  time  from  December  to  March.  They 
should  be  trained  to  some  support  that  will  carry  the  vine  a 
little  away  from  the  building  or  other  object  to  be  covered. 
The  best  method  of  training  when  used  for  a  cover  is  the 
single-cane  system,  where  strong  new  canes — those  of  last 
season's  growth — are  spread  over  the  surface  to  be  covered 
at  sufficient  distance  apart  to  cover  the  surface  as  much  as 
desired  and  for  the  full  development  of  the  fruit.  All  other 
canes,  especially  those  of  two  or  more  years  old  to  be  cut 
away  entirely.  After  the  vines  have  become  established 
the  pruning  needed  each  season  will  be  cutting  off  of  the  last 
season's  fruiting  canes  in  the  winter  and  bringing  into  their 
place  strong  new  canes. 

English  Ivy  (Hedera  helix). — On  brick  or  stone  walls 
and  sides  of  stone  buildings  with  a  northerly  exposure  the 
common  English  ivy  is  very  beautiful  and  satisfactory. 
It  is  easily  increased  by  laying  down  vigorous  shoots,  upon 
which  there  are  already  formed  air  roots,  and  covering 
them  with  2  or  3  inches  of  soil.  Many  variations  of  leaves 
have  been  produced  from  the  original  type,  some  large  and 
light  in  color,  others  very  dark  and  small  and  some  with 
variegations  of  yellow,  white  and  pink. 

Hedge-plants  * 

Hedge-plants  are  used  for  two  purposes,  i.e.,  to  serve  as 
a  boundary-line  that  shall  be  more  natural  and  ornamental 
than  a  stone  wall  or  fence,  and  as  a  protection  from  animal 
or  other  trespassers;  and  if  either  of  these  is  a  necessity  a 
well-kept  hedge  serves  a  very  good  purpose,  though  there 
are  few,  if  any,  places  where  the  fence,  wall  or  hedge  even 

*  For  treatment  of  hedges,  see  page  80. 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc.  267 

can  add  much  to  naturally  beautiful  surroundings.     Among 
the  best  trees  and  shrubs  for  this  purpose  are  the  following: 

Locust,  Honey.  Privet. 

Arbor-vitae,  Siberian.  Buckthorn. 

Hemlock.  Barberry,  Common. 

Boxwood.  -  Barberry,  Purple. 

Quince,  Japanese.  Barberry,  Japanese  (B.  Thunbergii) 

Rose,  Japanese. 

Siberian  Arbor- vitae  (Thuja  occidentalis,  var.  Siberica). 
— Already  described  under  " Evergreen  Trees." 

Hemlock  (Tsuga  canadensis) . — Must  be  planted  in  a  deep, 
cool  soil  with  some  protection  from  hot  sun  and  extreme  cold 
northwest  winds. 

Boxwood  (Buxus  sempermrens) . — Described  under  "Ever- 
green Shrubs."  Desirable  for  a  small,  low  hedge  or 
border. 

Japan  Quince  (Cydonia  japonica),  Fig.  122,  page  222. 
— One  of  the  most  rapidly  growing  and  hardy  of  our  shrubs 
and  especially  valuable  for  hedges.  It  requires  considerable 
care  to  keep  it  in  perfect  form  and  should  be  severely  headed 
in  at  planting  to  make  it  throw  up  numerous  shoots  at  the 
base,  without  which  a  good  hedge  cannot  be  made.  It  is 
not  a  shrub  that  will  bear  as  close  pruning  as  some  others, 
but  if  allowed  to  take  a  natural  bushy  form  it  is  very  beauti- 
ful in  flower  and  has  a  rich  dark-green  foliage. 

Honey-locust  (Gleditchia  triacanthos) . — None  of  our 
deciduous  trees  makes  a  hedge  that  is  sure  to  turn  animals 
or  the  small  boy  so  effectually  as  this,  when  properly  treated. 
As  with  most  trees  or  large-growing  shrubs,  severe  pruning 
is  required  to  give  them  the  strong  growth  of  numerous 
branches  at  the  base,  and  then  each  succeeding  year  if  it 
be  cut  back  from  four  to  six  inches  longer  than  the  last  year 
it  soon  forms  a  dense  mass  of  strong  shoots  near  the  ground. 


268  Landscape  Gardening 

The  numerous  branching  spines  along  the  trunk  and  main 
branches  make  it  the  best  guard  plant  we  have. 

Japan  Rose  (Rosa  multiflora). — This  very  strong-grow- 
ing rose  promises  to  become  a  valuable  hedge-plant.  On 
account  of  its  vigor  of  growth  and  the  numerous  spines  it 
will  turn  animals,  fruit-thieves,  or  other  trespassers,  and  is 
ornamental  in  flower  and  fruit.  In  habit  of  growth  it  is 
compact,  thrives  in  very  poor  soil,  and  as  yet  has  never 
been  injured  by  cold  in  the  vicinity  of  Amherst  and  other 
northern  sections  of  Massachusetts. 

Privet  (Ligustrum  vulgar  e). — A  neat,  compact  shrub, 
that  stands  pruning  perhaps  quite  as  well  as  anything  we 
have.  The  same  treatment  as  given  for  the  Japan  quinces 
and  other  hedge-plants  is  needed  as  to  early  formation  of 
lateral  branches.  Old  hedges  of  this  species  that  have  lost 
their  lower  branches  or  that  have  grown  many  years  at  the 
top  only  may  be  renovated  by  cutting  down  to  within  6  to 
10  inches  of  the  ground  in  the  spring  before  growth  begins, 
when  numerous  new,  strong  shoots  will  come  out  from  the 
stubs  and  soon  a  new  and  well-formed  hedge  will  result. 
Each  year  some  of  the  old  wood  must  be  cut  out  and  new 
canes  cut  back  into  the  middle  of  the  hedge.  During  the 
summer  the  strong  new  canes  that  grow  beyond  the  outline 
desired  should  be  shortened  to  this  point. 

California  Privet  (L.  ovalifolium),  Fig.  155. — One  of  the 
most  popular  hedge  plants,  of  a  bright-green  color  and  that 
stands  pruning  remarkably  well.  Occasionally  it  is  re- 
ported to  be  injured  by  winter,  but  this  is  probably  only 
where  grown  too  rapidly. 

Buckthorn  (Rhamnus  cathartica}. — Somewhat  resem- 
bling the  last  in  habit  of  growth,  is  hardy  and  tough,  and 
stands  shearing  well. 

Common  Barberry  (Berberis  vulgaris). — This  may  be 
used  as  an  ornamental  hedge  and  when  grown  of  large  size 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc. 


269 


becomes  protective.  The  more  strong  branches  that  can  be 
secured  at  the  start  of  the  hedge  the  better.  Close  prun- 
ing will  not  give  as  good  results  with  this  species  as  the 
more  natural  growth  of  the  bush  obtained  by  cutting  out 
here  and  there  a  cane  to  correct  the  form  of  each  shrub  and 
to  cause  it  to  thicken  up  and  branch  low. 


FIG.  155. — California  Privet  Hedge,  Closely  Pruned. 

Purple  Barberry  (B.  v.,  var.  purpurea).— This  was 
fully  described  under  "Ornamental  Shrubs.'7  Not  quite  so 
vigorous  as  the  last,  nor  does  it  make  quite  so  fine  a  hedge, 
though  the  purple  foliage  and  the  golden  pendent  blossoms 
are  very  beautiful. 

Japanese  Barberry  (B.  Thunbergii),  Fig.  156. — One  of  the 
most  beautiful  of  our  small  shrubs.  It  is  especially  fine  when 


270 


Landscape  Gardening 


allowed  to  grow  in  its  most  natural  form,  making  a  com- 
pact, yet  light,  graceful  bush  or  hedge  of  from  2  to  3  feet 
high.  By  cutting  out  here  and  there  during  the  summer 
strong  shoots  that  tend  to  grow  beyond  the  outline  desired, 
it  is  kept  in  a  low  natural  compact  form.  Its  foliage  is  small 
but  abundant,  of  a  light-green  color,  changing  late  in  the 
fall  to  a  bright  orange  red.  The  fruit  is  larger  than  that  of 
the  other  species  described,  borne  singly,  pendent  on  the 


FIG.  156. — Unpruned  Barberry  Hedge. 

under  side  of  the  numerous  small  branches  and  hangs  for 
a  long  time  after  the  leaves  have  fallen — nearly  all  winter 
unless  eaten  by  birds. 

Tender  Hydrangea  (Hydrangea  opuloides  vars.J. — This 
species  is  largely  used  for  veranda  and  lawn  decoration.  Its 
immense,  rounded  panicles  of  flowers,  white  when  they 
first  open,  change  to  shades  of  pink  and  violet-purple  under 
varying  conditions  of  soil  and  exposure.  They  may  be 
kept  over  winter  in  a  warm,  dry  cellar,  giving  them  just 


Ornamental  Shrubs,  Vines,  Etc. 


271 


272  Landscape  Gardening 

water  enough  to  keep  the  branches  from  becoming  shriveled. 
The  time  for  bringing  them  from  the  cellar  and  starting 
into  growth  may  vary  according  to  the  time  they  are  desired 
in  bloom.  For  early  blooming  the  last  of  March,  and  for 
July  and  August  blooming  they  need  not  be  started  into 
growth  until  May. 

Flowering  Hedges- —  Spireas,  hydrangeas,  lilacs,  roses, 
and  many  other  flowering  shrubs  may  be  used  for  hedges, 
and  often  very  pleasing  results  be  obtained.  To  make  the 
best  show,  they  should  be  planted  at  sufficient  distance  to 
give  each  plant  full  development,  and  they  should  be  en- 
couraged to  make  numerous  branches  at  the  base.  The 
different  species  of  shrubs  will  require  somewhat  different 
treatment  as  to  pruning  to  produce  the  largest  show  of 
blossoms.  (See  Pruning  Hedges  and  Shrubs,  pages  84  and 
88.)  They  may  be  made  of  one  kind,  as  the  hydrangeas, 
lilacs,  spiraeas,  etc.,  or  many  species  may  be  planted  together. 
The  largest  should  be  planted  in  the  middle  of  the  group 
or  in  the  rear  of  the  border  when  the  hedge  is  made  of 
considerable  width.  The  advantage  of  the  mixed  grouping 
is  that  something  may  be  had  in  bloom  at  nearly  all  seasons 
of  the  year,  but  it  will  be  almost  impossible  to  make  as 
even  and  true  outline  as  with  shrubs  of  one  kind, 


CHAPTER  XIII 
HERBACEOUS   PLANTS 

LONG  lists  of  hardy  herbaceous  plants  are  given  in  the 
catalogues  of  many  nurserymen,  and  a  large  proportion  cf 
the  species  and  varieties  advertised  are  valuable  under 
proper  conditions  of  soil,  exposure  and  care,  but  the  majority 
will  not  give  satisfaction  under  ordinary  treatment  given  by 
the  average  amateur.  In  the  following  pages  are  men- 
tioned only  those  that  are  most  desirable  and  easily  grown. 

Anemone,  Japanese  (Anemone  japonica). — This  is  the 
finest  of  all  fall-blooming  herbaceous  plants  for  the  mixed 
border.  The  plant  is  stately  in  habit,  2  to  4  feet  high,  with 
branching  stems  which  are  clothed  with  large,  showy, 
white,  deep  red  or  rose-colored  flowers  from  September 
to  November.  A  rich  soil  is  required. 

Aster.  Starwort,  Michaelmas  Daisy. — Many  species 
of  our  native  asters  are  very  beautiful  and,  given  proper 
conditions,  succeed  in  cultivation.  Under  the  shade  of 
avenue  or  street  trees  or  similar  shaded  situations,  Aster 
cordifolius  and  A .  undulatus  grow  beautifully  in  the  North- 
ern States.  Other  species,  as  A .  ericoides,  grow  in  dry  and 
exposed  places;  while  others,  like  A.  nova-anglice  and 
A.  nova-belgii,  prefer  a  moist  soil.  Aster  l&vis  grows  best 
in  good  soil  in  full  sun  or  partial  shade.  It  will  be  seen, 
therefore,  that  these  plants  are  adapted  to  various  positions 
on  the  home  grounds.  They  are  very  effective  when  massed 
in  the  flower  border  or  in  wild  garden.  Most  of  them  are 
improved  in  habit  in  cultivation.  The  English  call  these 

273 


274  Landscape  Gardening 

plants  Michaelmas  Daisies,  and  have  originated  numerous 
improved  varieties  which  deserve  to  be  better  known  in 
America.  The  latter  are  propagated  by  division  of  the 
clumps,  although  the  species  grow  readily  from  seed. 

Bleeding  Heart  (Dicentra  spectabilis). — This  plant  is  com- 
mon in  all  old  gardens.  It  is  a  lovely  plant,  growing  i  or  2 
feet  high,  and  is  very  striking  when  covered  with  a  large 
number  of  heart-shaped,  rosy-red  flowers.  It  blooms  in  late 
spring. 

The  native  species,  Squirrel  Corn  (D.  canadensis)  and 
Dutchman's  Breeches  (D.  cucullaria),  are  dainty  spring 
flowers.  These  may  be  taken  from  the  woods,  and  if 
natural  conditions  of  shade  and  light  soil  are  given,  are 
satisfactory  border  plants. 

Bloodroot  (Sanguinaria  canadensis}. — A  very  common 
and  most  beautiful  native  plant,  producing  its  showy,  pure 
white  flowers  very  early  in  the  spring.  It  grows  in  moist, 
shady  situations  and  is  easily  transplanted  to  the  garden 
where,  if  similar  conditions  are  given,  it  succeeds.  The  very 
early  blossoms  are  followed  by  broad,  lobed,  glaucous  leaves 
which  retain  their  beauty  most  of  the  summer. 

Boltonia.  False  Chamomile. — The  Boltonias  are  tall, 
leafy  plants,  blooming  in  late  summer  and  autumn.  The 
flowers  are  aster-like.  They  are  of  the  easiest  culture  and 
care  for  themselves  when  established.  B.  asteroides  has 
flowers  with  rays  white,  violet  and  purple.  B  latisquama 
is  a  handsomer  plant  with  larger  and  more  showy  flowers 
of  velvety  blue. 

Chrysanthemum. — The  hardy  chrysanthemums  have 
long  been  cultivated,  and  there  are  a  considerable  number  of 
varieties.  They  are  generally  known  as  pompons  and  are 
supposed  to  belong  to  the  same  species  as  the  greenhouse 
chrysanthemums  which,  however,  are  tender  outdoors  in 
the  Northern  States.  South  of  New  York  the  hardy  chrys- 


Herbaceous  Plants 


275 


anthemums  are  among  the  best  very  late-flowering  peren- 
nials.    In  the  North  their  hardiness  is  often  uncertain. 

Columbine  (Aquilegia  vulgaris,  etc.). — The  Columbines 
are  showy  spring  and  early  summer-flowering  plants. 
They  vary  from  white  to  deep  blue  in  color,  and  double 


FIG.  158. — White  Day  Lily  (Hosta  plantaginea  Grandiflora}. 

flowers  are  common.  Columbines  are  easily  grown,  and 
although  the  plants  are  not  of  long  duration,  it  is  not 
difficult  to  grow  seedlings  every  two  or  three  years 
to  renew  the  stock.  In  addition  to  the  varieties  of 
common  garden  Columbine  (A.  vulgaris),  many  of  the 
species  are  well  worth  growing.  The  Rocky  Mountain 
Yellow  (A  chrysantha)  and  the  blue  (A.  caerulea)  succeed 
well  in  any  good  moist  garden  soil.  The  various  species  and 


276  Landscape  Gardening 

varieties  hybridize  freely,  so  that  it  is  difficult  to  secure  pure 
seed  of  any  of  the  garden  forms  except  from  wild  plants. 
The  different  species  vary  from  i  to  4  feet  in  height. 

Coreopsis  (C.  lanceolata). — A  showy,  yellow-flowering 
hardy  perennial,  of  easy  culture  in  any  garden  soil.  The 
flowers,  which  are  ij  to  2^  inches  in  diameter,  are  produced 
on  long  stems,  making  them  suitable  for  cut-flowers. 

Day  Lilies  (Hostaj,  Fig.  158. — The  blue  or  white- 
flowering  day  lilies  belong  to  the  genus  Hosta.  They  are 
hardy  summer-flowering  plants,  of  easy  culture  in  deep  rich 
soil.  The  broader  leaved  kinds  grow  vigorously  in  moist, 
shady  places.  Many  varieties  have  strikingly  variegated 
leaves.  The  Hostas  are  propagated  by  dividing  the 
clumps.  Some  species  produce  seed  freely  which  should 
sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  Sometimes  known  as  Plantain  Lily. 

Day  Lilies,  Yellow  and  Orange  Flowered  (Hemero- 
callis). — The  old  garden  flower  is  found  in  many  gardens. 
The  plant  has  narrow,  grass-like  foliage,  whereas  the  Hostas 
have  broad  foliage.  The  plants  are  remarkably  free  from 
insect  or  other  pests,  and  are  perfectly  hardy  without  any 
protection.  The  roots  are  fleshy,  and  the  plant  thrives  in 
almost  any  garden  soil,  but  succeeds  best  in  moist  situations 
and  in  partial  shade.  It  is  an  excellent  plant  around  the 
margin  of  ponds. 

The  genus  includes  the  Lemon  Lily  (H.  flava),  one  of  the 
finest  perennials,  and  the  Brown  Day  Lily  (H.  fulva),  com- 
mon in  every  old  garden. 

Fraxinella  or  Gas  Plant  (Dictamus  albus  Linn.). — A 
very  hardy  old  garden  plant  producing  large  terminal 
racemes  of  flowers.  There  are  two  forms,  the  pink  and  the 
white  flowered.  The  plant  is  of  sturdy,  bold,  upright 
growth,  attaining  a  height  of  3  feet.  A  strong,  heavy, 
moderately  rich  soil  suits  them  best.  They  are  not  fastidi- 
ous as  to  situation,  succeeding  in  full  sun  and  in  partial 


Herbaceous  Plants  277 

shade.  A  splendid  plant  for  the  border,  but  must  not  be 
disturbed  very  often.  Easily  propagated  by  seeds  sown  in 
open  ground  as  soon  as  ripe.  When  seedlings  are  two  years 
old  they  may  be  transferred  to  the  border.  It  is  called  the 
gas  plant  because  of  an  explosion  which  occurs  when  a  lighted 
match  or  lamp  is  held  close  up  to  the  open  flowers.  This 
was  supposed  to  be  an  explosion  of  gas,  but  close  investiga- 
tion has  shown  that  it  is  the  result  of  the  combustion  of  an 
easily  ignited  wax  secreted  in  the  petals. 

Gaillardia  (Gaillardia  aristata  vars.). — This  genus  is 
notable  for  the  profusion  and  duration  of  its  flowers,  which 
appear  in  constant  succession  all  summer  and  autumn. 
The  flowers  are  large  and  showy,  adding  to  the  gorgeous 
effect  of  the  flower  border.  They  thrive  in  a  light,  well- 
drained  soil,  in  a  sunny  exposure.  The  plants  winter-kill 
on  heavy  moisture-laden  soils.  Gaillardias  are  propagated 
usually  from  seed  sown  in  cold  frames  in  August  or  Septem- 
ber, or  in  early  spring  under  glass.  The  improved  varieties 
do  not  reproduce  themselves  from  seed,  but  are  multiplied 
by  division  or  by  root  cuttings. 

Golden  Marguerite  (Anthemis  tinctoria). — An  excellent 
hardy  border  plant,  thriving  in  almost  any  soil  if  planted  in 
full  exposure  to  the  sun.  Plants  of  bushy  habit,  2  to  3  feet, 
with  much  divided  leaves  and  large  daisy-like  golden- 
yellow  or  pale  yellow  flowers. 

Hollyhock  (Althaea  rosed}. — This  tall,  stately  plant  was 
a  favorite  in  old  gardens,  but  the  ravages  of  the  rust  have 
caused  many  persons  to  discard  it.  Its  excellence  for 
mass  effects  and  for  breaking  the  sky  line  in  flower  bor- 
ders is  altogether  too  well  known,  however,  for  it  to  wholly 
disappear.  Seed  from  vigorous,  healthy  plants  grown  with- 
out check  in  good  soil  will  probably  escape  the  disease  unless 
diseased  plants  in  the  near  vicinity  are  allowed  to  remain. 
Spraying  thoroughly  both  sides  of  the  leaves  of  healthy 


278 


Landscape  Gardening 


plants  with  Bordeaux  mixture  will  provide  additional  pro- 
tection. 

The  flowers  are  single  and  double.     The  colors  are  white, 
various  shades  of  red  and  yellow. 


FIG.  159. — Japanese  Iris  (Iris  Icemgata) . 

Irises. — There  are  two  groups  of  the  Irises  which  are 
important  for  the  American  planter,  the  Japanese  group 
and  the  German  group.  The  Japanese  Iris  (Iris  lavigata, 
pr  I.  Kaempferi),  Fig.  159,  forms  strong  clumps  2  to  3 


Herbaceous  Plants  279 

feet  high,  producing  several  flower  stems.  The  leaves 
are  slender  and  erect.  The  flowers  of  the  cultivated 
varieties  have  a  flat  expanded  form  which  distinguishes 
this  group.  The  colors  range  from  white  through  all  the 
shades  of  blue  to  deep  purple.  Their  blooming  season 


FIG.  160. — German  Iris. 

follows  that  of  the  Germanica  group  and  lasts  until  the 
end  of  July.  All  varieties  are  hardy  and  thrive  in  moist, 
cool  situations.  They  are  used  along  margins  of  streams. 

The  German  Irises  (Fig.  160)  comprise  a  number  of 
species  and  hybrids  which  have  given  a  large  number  of 
garden  varieties.  These  vary  much  in  stature  and  in  size 
and  color  of  the  flowers.  The  latter  are  large  (often  6 


280  Landscape  Gardening 

inches  across)  and  handsome,  ranging  from  white,  mauve, 
shades  of  blue  to  deepest  purple  and  including  yellow. 
The  flowers  exhibit  beautiful  variegation  and  shades  of  color. 
The  flowers  are  produced  on  tall,  stout,  erect  stems  above  the 
clumps  of  spreading  leaves.  The  leaves  are  heavier  and  more 
glaucous  than  the  Japanese. 

There  are  many  other  species  and  varieties  of  Iris  that  are 
desirable  in  a  collection,  but  none  superior  to  those  men- 
tioned. The  dwarf  Irises  (7.  pumila,  etc.)  are  desirable 
because  they  seldom  grow  over  9  inches  in  height,  which 
adapts  them  for  edges  of  borders.  The  European  dwarf 
(/.  pumila)  belongs  to  the  same  sub-genus  as  the  German 
Irises  and  succeeds  under  like  conditions.  The  flowers 
appear  very  early.  The  American  dwarf  species  are  even 
smaller  than  the  foregoing  and  worth  growing.  All  of  the 
Irises  mentioned  have  rhizomatous  roots  which  are  divided 
to  secure  an  increase  of  the  desirable  varieties.  The  best 
time  to  transplant  rhizomatous  Irises  is  immediately  after 
flowering.  This  enables  the  plants  to  become  established 
before  winter.  They  succeed  in  most,  well-drained  soils 
which  would  not  be  called  wet.  The  latter  soils  are  suited 
for  growing  the  Japanese  and  similar  species. 

Larkspur  (Delphinium). — The  larkspurs  are  desirable 
garden  plants  because  of  their  vivid  blue  shades.  In  fact, 
they  cannot  be  dispensed  with  if  a  good  color  scheme  in  the 
garden  or  hardy  border  is  desired.  Among  the  best  perennial 
species  are  D.  formosum,  D.  hybridum  and  D.  grandiflorum, 
all  of  which  are  prolific  in  garden  forms.  Larkspurs  grow 
well  in  almost  any  good  loamy  soil,  but  the  tall  forms  and 
named  varieties  should  have  a  deeply  prepared,  rich  soil. 
The  tall  varieties  require  stakes,  as  they  break  down  easily. 
The  named  varieties  are  often  expensive,  but  excellent  varie- 
ties can  be  obtained  from  seed  sown  in  autumn  or  early 
spring.  The  plants  will  bloom  the  second  season.  Old 


Herbaceous  Plants  281 

plants  divide  readily,  and  the  finest  kinds  may  be  increased 
by  this  method. 

Lilies. — No  place  is  complete  without  some  of  the  species 
of  this  queen  of  flowers.  Some  of  them  are  very  easily 
grown  and  give  great  satisfaction.  While  a  variety  of  soils 
and  conditions  are  required  to  grow  a  collection  of  lilies,  the 
majority  of  them  succeed  only  on  a  light  soil  of  sand  and 
gravel  mixed,  since  this  soil  is  free  from  excess  moisture. 
The  soil  should  be  rich,  but  no  manure  must  come  in  con- 
tact with  the  bulbs.  Manures  are  best  applied  to  the  sur- 
face as  a  mulch.  Lilies  should  be  planted  deep,  owing  to  the 
fact  that  many  produce  roots  along  the  stem  above  the  bulb, 
and  also  because  deep  planting  enables  them  to  withstand 
drought  and  keeps  the  roots  cooler.  A  mulch  of  3  or  4 
inches  of  leaf  mold  or  peat  is  excellent  for  the  latter  pur- 
pose. Peat  mixed  with  the  soil  in  its  preparation  adds 
to  its  moisture-holding  capacity  and  enables  the  plants 
to  better  withstand  drought.  A  position  should  be  chosen 
which  is  sheltered  from  severe  winds  and  the  midday 
sun,  but  this  does  not  mean  the  close  vicinity  of  trees. 
Among  rhododendrons  is  a  good  place  for  some  lilies,  and 
sometimes  they  are  used  among  peonies.  The  bulbs  should 
not  be  severely  frozen  in  winter,  which  can  be  prevented 
by  adding  sufficient  mulch.  It  will  be  found  advantageous 
to  take  up  and  separate  the  bulbs  of  the  lily  bed  every  three 
or  four  years,  and  after  renewing  the  soil  replant  the  largest 
and  strongest  bulbs.  Among  the  best  kinds  are: 

GOLD-BANDED  LILY  (L.  auratum),  Fig.  161. — This  is  the 
finest  of  all  the  Japan  lilies.  The  flowers  are  large,  white, 
spotted  with  dark  crimson,  and  with  a  golden  line  or  band 
along  the  center  of  each  petal.  The  flowers  often  grow  in 
large  clusters,  as  many  as  forty  sometimes  appearing  on  a 
single  stalk,  but  the  ordinary  number  is  about  six  to  ten. 
Height  2  to  4  feet.  There  are  several  garden  varieties. 


282 


Landscape  Gardening 


This  lily  is  planted  in  large  quantities  in  American  gardens, 
but  it  does  not  thrive  indefinitely  as  certain  species  do.  In 
ordinary  gardens  new  stock  usually  must  be  procured  every 
two  or  three  years. 

LANCE-LEAVED  LILY  (L.  speciosum}. — This  is  probably  the 
best  species  for  general  cultivation,  as  it  is  more  thrifty  and 


FIG.  161. — Golden-banded  Lily  (Lilium  auratum). 

hardy  than  the  preceding.  The  habit  is  also  less  formal. 
The  flowers  are  of  somewhat  the  same  type  and  markings 
except  that  they  lack  the  gold-band  characteristic  of  L. 
auratum.  The  two  varieties,  album  and  rubrum,  are  dis- 
tinct and  desirable. 

MADONNA  LILY  (L.  can didum).— This  is  probably  the  best 
white  lily  for  garden  culture.     It  is  an  old  favorite,  but  of 


Herbaceous  Plants  283 

late  years  has  been  subject  to  a  disease  called  by  some  the 
Uly  blight.  Bordeaux  mixture  has  been  successfully  used  as 
a  preventive.  This  species  should  be  planted  in  August. 

EASTER  LILY  (L.  longiflorum) . — This  lily  and  its  great 
^ariety,  the  Bermuda  Easter  Lily  (L.  Harrisii),  are  exten- 
sively uced  by  florists  for  forcing.  The  bulbs  are  produced 
in  Japan,  Formosa  and  Bermuda,  and  are  sent  in  large 
quantities  to  the  United  States. 

TURK'S  CAP  LILY  (L.  superbum) . — This  is  one  of  the  finest 
of  all  lilies  in  size  and  vigor  of  growth  of  plant,  often  readi- 
ng 6  feet  in  height.  It  succeeds  best  in  a  rather  moist 
soil.  The  flowers  are  six  to  twelve  in  number,  bright  reddish 
orange  and  conspicuously  spotted,  with  recurving  petals. 
One  of  the  species  which  often  succeeds  in  a  heavy  soil  and 
frequently  in  considerable  shade.  A  very  useful  lily  in 
borders.  It  is  native  of  the  eastern  United  States.  It 
should  be  called  American  Turk's  Cap  Lily  to  distinguish 
it  from  L.  martagon,  which  is  commonly  cultivated  in  Europe. 

TIGER  LILY  (L.  tigrinum). — This  old-fashioned  flower  is 
one  of  the  best  lilies  for  massing,  and  it  thrives  year  after 
year  in  the  open  border.  It  often  succeeds  on  heavy  soils. 
The  flowers  are  three  to  ten  or  more  in  a  raceme.  The  color 
is  deep  orange,  thickly  spotted  with  purplish-black.  Height 
2  to  5  feet.  The  variety  splendens  is  more  vigorous  than 
the  type.  This  lily  may  be  propagated  by  planting  the 
bulblets  produced  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves.  These  with 
good  care  will  bloom  in  three  or  four  years. 

BATMANN'S  LILY  (L.  elegans,  var.fulgens). — This  lily  is  of 
dwarfer  growth  than  the  preceding,  and  is  therefore  adapted 
for  bedding.  There  are  a  number  of  varieties  giving  a  con- 
siderable range  of  color.  While  it  thrives  on  a  variety  of 
soils,  it  succeeds  best  on  one  of  a  light  character. 

There  are  many  other  lilies,  as  L.  Chalcedonicum,  testaceum, 
maculatum,  Henryi,  Martagon,  monadelphum  and  Canadense. 


284 


Landscape  Gardening 


All  succeed  in  light  soils,  although  the  last  may  do  well  on 
a  heavy  one.  The  cultural  requirements  and  region  of 
adaptation  of  many  of  the  lilies  are  unknown  in  this  country. 
It  may  be  expected,  therefore,  that  some  species  may  be 


FIG.  162. — Paeonia  Tenuifolia. 

found  more  successful,  at  least  in  certain  sections,  than 
those  described. 

Mist  Plant  (Gypsophila  paniculata) . — A  much-branched 
plant  with  small  glaucous  leaves  and  producing  a  profusion 
of  small  white  flowers  that  are  very  pretty  for  lightening  up 


Herbaceous  Plants 


285 


bouquets  and  arranging  with  all  kinds  of  flowers.  It  is  also 
used  to  produce  a  mist-like  effect  in  flower  borders.  The 
plant  is  perfectly  hardy  in  open,  rather  dry  places.  The 
scientific  name  means  gypsum-loving,  because  it  likes  cal- 
careous soils.  Other  species,  G.  cerastioides  and  G.  repens, 
are  excellent  for  rock  work. 


FIG.  163. — Paeonia  Albiflora. 

Peony  (Pceonia),  Fig.  163. — The  peonies  belong  to  two 
distinct  groups,  the  shrubby  or  tree  peonies  and  the  her- 
baceous species.  The  tree  peony  (P.  moutan)  produces  a 
woody  stem  which  annually  increases  until  the  plant  attains 
a  height  of  3  or  4  feet.  The  flowers  are  more  delicately 
shaded  than  the  herbaceous  varieties.  Although  considered 
hardy,  the  plants  are  benefited  by  a  wrapping  of  rye  straw 
or  a  covering  of  pine  boughs.  The  herbaceous  peonies 


286  Landscape  Gardening 

are  chiefly  of  three  species,  P.  tenuifolia,  P.  officinalis  and 
P.  albiflora. 

P.  tenuifolia,  Fig.  162,  the  cut-leaved  peony,  is  valuable 
for  its  rich  crimson  flowers,  which  appear  in  advance  of 
the  other  species,  and  for  its  finely  cut  foliage.  P.  officinalis, 
the  old-fashioned  double  white,  rose  and  red  peonies.  These 
flower  next  in  order.  They  are  found  in  every  old  garden. 
There  are  single  forms  which  are  also  worthy  of  a  place 
in  hardy  flower  borders.  P.  albiflora,  Fig.  163,  has  given 
an  almost  endless  number  of  varieties,  many  of  which  are 
fragrant.  The  flowers  are  single  and  double  and  the  colors 
are  white,  often  tinted  yellow  or  cream,  and  shades  of  red 
varying  from  the  most  delicate  blush  to  deepest  crimson. 
All  of  the  peonies  are  hardy  and  thrive  in  any  good  garden 
soil.  They  are  gross  feeders,  and  if  good  flowers  are 
wanted,  annual  applications  of  manure  should  be  made  in 
the  fall.  Propagation  is  by  division,  and  planting  should 
be  done  in  September  or  October.  The  peony  is  an  excep- 
tion to  the  general  rule  of  plants  in  that  it  should  not  be 
transplanted  every  three  or  four  years.  This  length  of 
time  is  required  for  the  average  nursery-grown  plants  to 
really  get  established.  Peonies  may  be  found  in  old 
gardens  that  have  never  been  transplanted  and  are  still 
producing  annual  crops  of  flowers.  It  may  be  beneficial 
to  transplant  them  occasionally  into  fresh  soil. 

Phlox  (Phlox  paniculata),  Fig.  164.— The  different  species 
of  phlox  give  a  succession  of  bloom  from  spring  until  fall, 
but  the  most  commonly  grown  of  the  perennial  kinds  is  the 
paniculata  group  or  summer-flowering  phloxes.  These 
showy  plants  are  favorites  everywhere  for  their  neat  habit 
of  profuse  bloom,  wide  range  of  color  and  general  ease  of 
culture.  The  colors  range  from  white  through  shades  of  red 
to  deep  purple.  The  flowers  are  variously  marked. 

The  next  section  in   importance   is  suffruticosa,  which 


Herbaceous  Plants  287 

blooms  earlier  than  the  foregoing,  but  does  not  have  the 
same  range  of  color  or  size  of  flowers.  They  are  valuable 
to  lengthen  the  flowering  season  of  the  erect-growing  type. 

The  earliest  of  the  phloxes  are  the  Moss  Pinks  (P.  subu- 
lata).  These  are  low-growing,  creeping  forms  producing  a 
carpet  of  bloom  in  spring.  The  colors  are  light  blue, 


FIG.  164. — Phlox  paniculata. 

pink  or  white.  This  species  is  used  for  carpeting  beds  or  for 
edging.  They  succeed  best  in  a  warm,  well-drained  soil, 
the  surface  of  which  dries  off  rapidly.  The  wild  Sweet 
William  (P.  divaricate)  is  deserving  of  attention  and  can  be 
easily  grown  in  flower  borders  in  rich  soil. 

The  summer-flowering  perennial  phloxes  require  a  rich, 
rather  moist,  soil  for  best  results,  although  they  can  be  grown 


288  Landscape  Gardening 

in  any  good  garden  soil.  Each  clump  should  have  sufficient 
space,  as  they  become  2  or  3  feet  across  when  fully  de- 
veloped, which  is  not  until  three  or  four  years  after  planting. 
The  finest  flowers  are  produced  on  young  or  recently  divided 
plants,  but  for  landscape  effect  the  large,  old  clumps  are 
most  satisfactory.  The  frequency  of  transplanting  will  be 
determined  by  the  rate  the  centers  of  the  clumps  become 
weak  or  die  out.  The  phloxes  are  benefited  if  mulched  with 
strawy  manure  during  winter.  The  clumps  should  be  kept 
free  from  grass.  They  are  propagated  by  division  in  the 
fall  after  growth  has  ceased  or  by  means  of  cuttings  of  young 
shoots.  The  phloxes  grow  readily  from  seed,  and  inferior 
seedlings  springing  up  around  the  clumps  should  be  de- 
stroyed, since  they  often  choke  out  the  parent  plants,  pro- 
ducing the  so-called  "running  out." 

Pink  (Dianthus  sp.). — This  large  genus  contains  many 
species  adapted  to  the  flower  border  and  the  rock  gar- 
den. They  all  like  a  warm  soil,  and  the  perennial  species 
prefer  one  that  does  not  become  too  wet,  especially  in 
winter.  All  are  easily  grown  from  seed.  Among  the 
well-known  forms  are  the  Sweet  William  (D.  barbatus), 
which  is  one  of  the  oldest  garden  flowers;  common  grass 
pink  (D.  plumarius),  a  low-growing,  turfy  plant  suitable  for 
edging  beds  or  borders;  Chinese  pink  (D.  Chinensis),  a  more 
or  less  creeping  plant  with  large  showy  flowers.  This  species 
has  given  a  race  of  showy  garden  pinks,  D.  Heddewigii,  which, 
however,  are  treated  practically  as  annuals;  although  they 
will  live  over  winter  and  flower  the  second  summer.  The 
carnation  of  the  florists  (D.  carophyllus)  is  not  hardy,  and 
the  English  hardy  border  carnations  are  practically  unknown 
in  America. 

Plume  Poppy  (Bocconia  cor  data). — An  excellent  plant  for 
producing  subtropical  effects.  The  leaves  are  deeply  lobed, 
of  a  glaucous  green  color,  and  the  flowers  are  in  plume-like 


Herbaceous  Plants 


289 


panicles  followed  by  numerous  pods  that  continue  its 
beauty  for  a  long  time.  It  grows  from  5  to  8  feet  high 
and  spreads  rapidly,  but  not  to  such  an  extent  as  to 
be  uncontrollable.  By  pulling  up  the  suckers  in  the  spring 
that  come  up  beyond  the  limit  of  the  space  desired  that  it 
shall  occupy,  it  can  easily  be  kept  within  bounds,  and  this 


FIG.  165. — Oriental  Poppy. 

thinning  will  result  in  a  more  vigorous  growth  of  the  remain- 
ing canes.  Only  a  limited  number  of  the  shoots  that  start 
in  the  spring  should  be  allowed  to  grow.  All  others  should 
be  pulled  out  or  broken  off  as  soon  as  they  appear.  Old 
clumps  are  benefited  by  applications  of  liquid  manure  in 
the  spring. 

Poppy,  Oriental  (Papaver  orientalis),  Fig.  165. — The  pre- 
vailing color  of  the  flowers  of  this  species  is  a  vivid  orange 


290  Landscape  Gardening 

scarlet  with  large  black  blotches  at  the  base  of  the  petals 
and  a  great  mass  of  the  black  stamens.  The  colors  of  the 
new  hybrids  range  from  silvery  white,  soft  pink  and  salmon 
to  dark-blood  crimson  and  dark  maroon.  The  plants  are 
very  hardy  and  once  established  in  any  good  garden  soil, 
are  among  the  most  permanent  of  the  garden.  A  mulch 
of  fine  compost  applied  in  the  fall,  and  sufficient  care  to  keep 
down  the  weeds  and  grass,  is  all  the  culture  required.  If 
there  is  a  tendency  to  spread  beyond  the  beds,  it  may  be 
overcome  by  cutting  down  with  a  sharp  spade  around  the 
margin  of  the  bed  and  removing  the  roots  and  underground 
stems  outside  the  limit.  They  are  easily  transplanted  during 
their  dormant  season,  which  is  August  and  September. 
After  September  they  should  not  be  disturbed. 

PyrethrumHARDY  FEVERFEW  (Chrysanthemum  coccineum). 
— These  flowers,  called  by  some  spring-flowering  chrysan- 
themums, bloom  in  May  and  June.  There  are  single 
and  double  varieties  in  colors  ranging  from  snow  white 
to  the  most  intense  scarlet  and  crimson.  The  plants  are 
easily  grown  and  are  beautiful  in  both  foliage  and  flower. 
They  are  hardy,  but  in  dry  seasons  sometimes  suffer  from 
the  heat  unless  the  plants  are  watered.  If  the  withered 
flowers  are  cut  immediately,  a  new  growth  will  produce 
flowers  in  the  autumn.  Plant  in  spring  or  September  in  a 
rich  mellow  loam.  The  plant  deserves  to  be  better  known  in 
American  gardens.  The  plant  is  of  additional  interest  from 
the  fact  that  the  C.  coccineum  and  C.  cinerarifolium  flowers 
are  used  in  some  localities  for  the  manufacture  of  the  pyre- 
thrum  powder  known  under  the  name  of  Persian,  Dalmatian 
and  Bubach  insect  powders. 

Rudbeckia,  GOLDEN  GLOW  (R.  laciniata). — This  showy 
variety  is  a  double-flowered  form  of  the  species  and  has  been 
largely  planted  in  recent  years.  Rudbeckia  Golden  Glow 
succeeds  best  in  good  soil  abundantly  supplied  with  moist- 


Herbaceous  Plants  291 

ure.  If  well  cut  back  when  through  flowering,  it  often 
gives  a  second  crop  of  flowers.  R.  Newmanii,  the  perennial 
form  of  the  Black-Eyed  Susan,  attains  a  height  of  3  feet, 
and  the  deep  orange-yellow  flowers  with  a  dark  purple 
cone  add  variety  to  the  flower  border.  R.  purpurea  (Giant 
Purple  Cone  Flower)  has  peculiar  reddish-purple  flowers 


FIG.  1 66. — Yucca  filamentosa. 

with  a  large  brown  cone-shaped  center,  and  blooms  from 
July  to  October. 

Sunflower  (Helianthus). — Many  of  the  hardy  sun- 
flowers are  useful  perennial  plants.  The  plants  of  some 
species  are  tall,  5  to  12  feet,  with  large  or  very  large 
attractive  yellow  flowers.  Some  kinds  spread  too  rapidly 
to  be  desirable  unless  planted  in  a  box  or  tub  of  soil.  The 
plants  are  easily  propagated  by  division.  Planted  in  masses, 
sunflowers  are  very  effective.  Helianthus  decapetalus,  var. 
multiflorus,  and  its  garden  varieties  do  not  spread  so  rapidly 


292  Landscape  Gardening 

as  some  of  the  other  forms.  The  varieties  differ  in  size 
and  in  the  amount  of  doubling  of  the  flowers,  season  of 
flowering  and  in  habit  of  the  plant.  Thus  this  species  is 
well  adapted  for  planting  in  various  situations.  H.  orgyalis 
is  often  grown  because  of  its  distinct  and  attractive  foliage. 
All  of  the  sunflowers  are  of  easy  culture,  in  a  great  variety 
of  soils,  but  should  have  plenty  of  room,  as  they  are  gross 
feeders,  and  the  advantage  of  full  sun. 

Yucca,  ADAM'S  NEEDLE- AND-THREAD  PLANT  (Yucca 
filamentosa),  Fig.  166. — A  very  beautiful  hardy  plant  for 
striking  effects  on  the  lawn,  with  its  long,  upright,  narrow 
evergreen  leaves  and  large  panicles  of  drooping,  creamy- 
white  flowers,  rising  to  a  height  of  4  or  5  feet.  It  is  in- 
dispensable for  the  rockery,  but  is  also  appropriate  in 
front  of  evergreens.  It  thrives  even  on  dry  banks  where  few 
plants  will  grow.  It  is  easily  propagated  by  division  and 
should  be  transplanted  in  the  spring. 

Hardy  Spring  Flowering  Bulbs 

Few  plants  give  more  beauty  for  the  labor  and  expense, 
than  beds  or  masses  of  the  Dutch  or  Holland  bulbs.  The 
only  bulbs  adapted  for  design  beds  are  the  hyacinth  and 
tulip,  and  these  should  not  be  planted  in  the  same  bed  for 
the  finest  effects.  Care  must  be  taken  to  select  bright 
contrasting  colors  in  varieties  that  bloom  at  the  same  time 
and  at  a  uniform  height.  In  making  design  beds  it  pays 
to  remove  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  6  inches;  then  loosen  up 
the  lower  soil,  working  in  well-rotted  manure  and  ground 
bone.  Level  off  the  surface  and  if  the  soil  is  heavy,  add  an 
inch  of  sand,  which  drains  the  water  away  from  the  bulbs. 
The  bulbs  are  set  on  the  sand  layer,  which  enables  the 
planter  to  properly  arrange  the  design  so  as  to  get  the  bulbs 
properly  spaced.  Then  carefully  replace  the  top  soil  so 
that  the  bulbs  will  be  covered  to  a  uniform  depth, 


Herbaceous  Plants  293 

The  mixed  border  is  an  admirable  place  for  most  hardy 
bulbs,  since  they  may  be  planted  in  small  colonies  among 
herbaceous  perennials  and  hardy  shrubs.  Twenty-five  to 
a  hundred  bulbs  may  be  planted  in  each  patch.  Among 
the  important  bulbs  for  this  purpose  are  the  various 
narcissi,  daffodils  and  jonquils,  cottage  and  parrot 
tulips,  hyacinths,  trilliums,  erythroniums,  crocuses,  snow- 
drops, etc. 

Hardy  bulbs  should  be  planted  about  six  weeks  before 
regular  freezing  weather.  The  depth  to  plant  bulbs  depends 
upon  the  kinds.  Hyacinths,  tulips,  and  narcissi,  or  similar 
large  bulbs,  are  planted  from  4  to  6  inches  deep,  smaller 
bulbs  much  shallower.  If  planted  at  the  proper  season 
and  at  the  proper  depth,  the  bulbs  make  a  good  root  system 
preparatory  to  flowering  in  the  spring.  If  planted  too 
shallow,  there  may  not  be  sufficient  moisture  for  root  growth, 
and  of  course  late  planting  may  prevent  proper  development. 
When  a  light  crust  is  frozen,  cover  the  bulbs  with  a  4-  or 
6-inch  mulch  of  leaves,  marsh  hay  or  strawy  manure,  and 
this  should  be  gradually  removed  in  the  spring. 

Lily-of-the-valley  (Convallaria  majalis). — This  little 
flowering  plant,  usually  classed  among  the  hardy  flower- 
ing bulbs,  is  much  sought  for  on  account  of  its  beautiful 
flowers.  It  is  easily  grown  in  shaded  places.  It  spreads 
rapidly  and  should  be  taken  up,  divided  and  reset  occasion- 
ally to  insure  an  abundant  bloom.  One  method  employed 
to  accomplish  this  is  to  cut  out  blocks  or  squares  from  the 
center  of  the  beds  and  fill  in  with  rich  soil.  A  better 
method  is  to  remove  all  the  plants  and  replant  the  largest 
and  strongest  divisions.  A  light  dressing  of  compost  in  the 
fall  will  improve  the  size  and  increase  the  number  of  flowers 
produced. 


294  Landscape  Gardening 

Tender  Summer-flowering  Bulbs 

Dahlias  (Dahlia  sp.). — Dahlias  are  essentially  flower- 
garden  subjects,  requiring  rich  soil  and  careful  culture. 
Usually  they  do  not  give  good  results  among  other  plants 
unless  they  have  considerable  space,  as  the  plants  require 
plenty  of  air  and  sunlight.  They  thrive  in  any  good  soD 
that  has  been  enriched,  although  a  sandy  soil  is  preferred. 
Single  tubers  are  best  for  planting,  which  may  be  done  two 
weeks  before  danger  of  frost  is  over.  Earlier  than  this 
may  result  in  the  shoots  being  killed,  as  they  are  tender. 
This,  in  the  latitude  of  New  York  City,  would  be  about 
May  i  st.  The  roots  should  be  planted  from  6  to  8 
inches  deep,  although  if  the  soil  is  heavy,  it  is  best  not  to 
fill  the  soil  so  that  the  surface  is  level,  but  gradually  work 
the  soil  around  the  plants  as  they  increase  in  height.  A 
common  method  of  culture  is  to  cover  the  tubers  2  or 
3  inches  deep  in  the  bottom  of  the  furrows,  and  when  the 
shoots  appear,  remove  all  but  the  strongest  one,  which  is 
pinched  as  soon  as  two  pair  of  leaves  are  formed.  This 
causes  the  plant  to  branch  below  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
thus  making  staking  unnecessary.  The  plants,  having  the 
entire  strength  of  the  root  and  soil  concentrated  in  one  shoot, 
grow  very  vigorously.  Thorough  cultivation  should  be 
given.  Deep  tillage  is  beneficial  until  plants  begin  to  bloom, 
when  light  stirrings  of  the  surface  should  be  made.  If  the 
plants  cease  blooming,  a  small  handful  of  bone  meal  and 
nitrate  of  soda  should  be  given.  The  most  serious  insect 
pest  is  the  tarnished  plant  bug.  When  frost  has  killed  the 
plants,  dig  the  tubers,  allow  them  to  dry  for  a  few  hours,  and 
store  in  a  frost-proof  cellar.  If  the  air  of  the  cellar  is  dry, 
pack  the  roots  in  dry  sand  or  in  sawdust  to  prevent  shrivel- 
ling. Varieties  of  dahlias  are  propagated  by  division  of  the 
clumps  and  also  by  cuttings  taken  from  tubers  started  in 


Herbaceous  Plants  295 

early   spring   under  glass.     Seeds    do  not  reproduce   the 
variety. 

Gladiolus. — Among  the  summer-flowering  plants,  none 
gives  a  richer  display  of  color  than  the  gladiolus.  This 
plant  can  be  flowered  in  any  good  soil.  It  may  be  planted 
in  beds  or  in  clumps,  in  borders  or  in  the  flower  garden. 
Successive  plantings  may  be  made  at  intervals  of  two  weeks, 
beginning  during  the  latter  part  of  April  and  continuing 
until  July  ist.  The  bulbs  are  planted  about  6  inches 
apart,  but  if  wanted  for  cut-flowers,  plant  in  rows  18 
inches  apart  and  4  to  6  inches  apart  in  the  row.  The 
bulbs  should  be  planted  from  4  to  6  inches  deep,  accord- 
ing to  size.  This  depth  allows  for  the  proper  development 
of  the  new  bulb  on  top  of  the  old,  and  also  does  away  with 
stakes.  Keep  down  the  weeds  and  conserve  the  moisture 
by  frequent  cultivation.  After  the  frost  has  killed  the  plants, 
cut  the  stalks  close  to  the  bulbs,  and  place  them  in  a  cool, 
dry  place  to  ripen;  after  which,  remove  the  remains  of  the 
old  corm  and  store  in  baskets  or  trays  at  a  uniform  temper- 
ature of  40°  Fahrenheit. 

Bedding  and  Foliage  Plants 

The  best  flowering  bedding  plant  is  the  geranium.  There 
are  numerous  varieties,  but  among  the  best  are  S.  A.  Nutt, 
Beaute  Poitevine,  General  Grant,  Alphonse  Ricard,  Miss 
F.  Perkins,  L'Aube,  Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill,  Dryden,  Marquis 
Castellane,  Madame  Recamier,  and  Snowdrop.  There  are 
single-  and  double-flowered  varieties,  some  being  adapted  for 
bedding  and  others  for  indoor  culture.  The  ivy-leaved 
varieties  are  suitable  for  window  boxes  and  vases.  This 
plant  is  propagated  by  means  of  cuttings  and  in  the  Northern 
States  is  carried  over  winter  in  the  house  or  in  a  greenhouse. 

Among  the  most  desirable  bedding  plants  are  those  with 
colored  foliage.  Those  propagated  by  means  of  cuttings  are 


296  Landscape  Gardening 

Alternanthera,  Coleus,  Iresine  (Achyranthes),  and  the 
Foliage  Geraniums.  The  best  of  the  latter  is  the  variety 
Madame  Salleroi,  which  is  of  dwarf  habit,  6  to  8  inches 
high,  foliage  green  bordered  with  white,  and  used  for  edging 
beds. 

The  foliage  plants  commonly  grown  from  seed  are  Cen- 
taurea  Cineraria  (often  called  Centaurea  candidissima)  and 
Centaurea  gymnocarpa.  These  are  commonly  known  as 
"Dusty  Millers"  and  are  used  for  edgings,  vases  and  hang- 
ing baskets.  Golden  Feather  (Chrysanthemum  parthenium, 
var.  aureum)  is  valuable  for  its  yellow  foliage.  Another 
annual  foliage  plant  is  Joseph's  Coat  (Amaranthus  tricolor). 
This  plant  has  red,  yellow  and  green  leaves,  but  owing  to 
its  tall  habit  is  suited  to  the  flower  border  instead  of  for  beds. 

Annual  Flowers 

There  are  a  large  number  of  hardy,  half-hardy,  and 
tender  annual  flowers,  which  may  be  used  to  decorate  the 
home  grounds  or  to  add  to  the  display  in  the  flower  garden. 
Many  of  these  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground,  while  a 
few,  like  cosmos,  scarlet  sage  and  moonflowers,  should  be 
started  in  the  house,  hotbed  or  greenhouse.  Although  many 
flowers  can  be  sown  outside,  and  a  satisfactory  display  of 
flowers  may  be  produced,  their  season  may  be  extended  by 
starting  the  seedlings  indoors,  The  annuals  suitable  for  bed- 
ding are  alyssum,  ageratum,  California  poppy  (Eschscholtzia) , 
coxcomb  (Celosiacristata),  French  marigolds  (Tagetes  patula), 
petunias,  Drummond's  phlox,  portulaca,  scarlet  sage  (Sal- 
ma  splendens),  snapdragon,  stocks,  verbena  and  zinnia. 

The  annuals  desirable  for  edging  are,  sweet  alyssum, 
ageratum,  Dianthus  Heddewigii,  Lobelia  erinus,  nastur- 
tium, portulaca,  and  verbena. 

The  tall  growing  annuals  are  desirable  for  filling  in  the 
mixed  borders,  among  the  hardy  perennials,  in  order  to  keep 


Herbaceous  Plants  297 

up  the  floral  display  throughout  the  season.  If  a  supply  of 
annuals  in  pots  is  provided,  they  can  be  set  at  any  time 
during  the  season,  when  required.  Among  the  best  annuals 
are  asters,  balsams,  calendula,  calliopsis,  centaurea,  celosia, 
cosmos,  datura,  four  o'clock,  African  marigold,  larkspur, 
mignonette,  petunias,  poppies  and  zinnias. 

An  interesting  annual,  now  often  planted,  is  standing 
cypress  or  Belvidere  (Kochia  trichophylla),  which  can  be 
used  for  hedges  or  planted  in  formal  gardens.  The  plant 
is  a  lively  green  during  summer,  but  turns  a  vivid  red  in 
autumn.  It  grows  about  3  feet  high,  and  when  it  has  room, 
develops  as  symmetrically  as  an  evergreen. 

Pansy  (Viola  tricolor}. — When  properly  grown  no  early- 
blooming  flower  gives  more  satisfaction — so  much  show 
outside  and  so  many  flowers  for  indoor  decoration.  To 
obtain  the  best  results  the  seed  should  be  sown  in  August 
in  a  cool,  slightly  shaded,  airy  place,  and  when  three  or  four 
of  the  middle  leaves  have  formed  be  transplanted  to  a  bed 
where  they  may  be  protected  for  a  time  from  very  severe 
freezing  until  they  have  reached  a  size  to  show  some  flower- 
buds.  They  should  then  be  exposed  to  the  weather  to 
harden  them  off  and  be  protected  from  severe  freezing 
during  the  winter  by  a  covering  of  pine  boughs  and  a  few 
leaves.  Too  deep  covering  will  destroy  the  plants  by  pro" 
ducing  fermentation.  In  the  spring  the  covering  should 
be  removed  as  soon  as  severe  freezing  is  over,  in  this  section 
about  April  ist,  fine  rich  manure  be  worked  in  about  the 
plants,  and  the  soil  settled  by  a  heavy  watering.  All  of 
the  very  early  buds  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  cpen 
until  the  plants  have  gained  good  size  and  are  vigorous, 
when  the  blossoms  may  be  allowed  to  mature  which  will 
then  be  of  large  size.  These  plants  may  be  transplanted  to 
beds  on  the  lawn  or  in  the  garden  and  will  produce  large  quan- 
tities of  blossoms  for  two  months,  i.e.,  April  to  June.  All 


298  Landscape  Gardening 

faded  flowers  should  be  removed  and  none  of  the  seed-pods 
be  allowed  to  mature  if  the  largest  flowers  are  desired,  as 
the  development  of  a  single  seed-vessel  will  exhaust  the 
plants  more  than  the  production  of  a  dozen  flowers. 

Hardy  Annual  Climbing  Plants 

Sweet  Pea  (Lathyrus  odoratus). — This  plant  is  extremely 
popular,  and  deservedly  so,  for  if  we  consider  its  great 
range  of  color,  fragrance,  suitability  as  a  cut-flower  for 
decoration,  range  of  adaptation,  etc.,  it  is  unrivaled.  The 
plant  is  easily  grown,  and  the  seed  is  so  cheap  that  there  is 
no  excuse  for  any  one  being  without  this  delightful  flower. 
The  best  results  are  secured  on  a  rich  cool  soil,  and  from  early 
planting.  The  soil  should  be  prepared  in  the  fall,  but  may 
be  fitted  in  early  spring  if  unavoidable.  The  soil  should  be 
spaded  18  to  24  inches  deep,  working  in  6  to  8  inches  of 
manure  and  one  to  two  pounds  of  bone  meal  per  lineal  yard 
of  row.  If  the  soil  is  left  slightly  ridged  where  the  row  or 
rows  are  to  be  made,  the  soil  will  dry  more  rapidly  in  the 
spring.  The  ridges  should  then  be  raked  level,  a  good  dress- 
ing of  acid  phosphate  applied,  and  the  rows  marked  out 
3  inches  deep.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  2  inches  apart 
and  the  soil  made  level.  The  seeds  must  be  sown  just  as 
early  as  the  ground  is  dry  enough  to  work. 

The  best  support  is  good  twiggy  brush,  if  obtainable; 
otherwise  a  3-foot  strip  of  common  poultry  netting  should 
be  stretched  along  the  row  and  supported  by  strong  stakes 
or  small  posts.  If  the  supports  are  allowed  to  extend  above 
the  top  of  the  netting,  the  sweet  peas  that  grow  taller  than 
the  height  of  the  netting,  may  be  supported  by  strings 
stretched  along  each  side  of  the  row  and  tied  to  the  stakes. 
Constant  picking  of  the  flowers  and  the  removal  of  the  seed 
pods  will  prolong  the  flowering  period.  Nothing  exhausts 
the  plants  so  rapidly  as  the  production  of  seed. 


Herbaceous  Plants  299 

There  are  several  types  of  sweet  peas,  i.e.,  garden,  winter- 
flowering  (for  growing  in  greenhouses),  and  the  dwarf  or 
cupid.  There  are  a  great  many  varieties  of  the  garden  type, 
but  at  the  present  time  the  waved  or  Spencer  varieties  are 
the  best.  The  winter-flowering  varieties  are  sometimes 
planted  outside  for  very  early  flowers,  but  are  surpassed  by 
the  garden  varieties  in  size  of  flowers.  The  cupid  sweet  peas 
grow  about  8  inches  high  and  are  suitable  for  edgings. 
They  succeed  on  dry,  light  soils,  and  like  more  heat  than  the 
other  sweet  peas.  They  succeed  better  in  California  than 
elsewhere. 

Tender  Annual  Climbing  Plants 

Among  the  best  tender  climbers  for  flowers,  are  canary- 
bird  flower  (Tropaolum  peregrinum),  cardinal  climber 
(Ipomcea  Quamelit  hybrida),  cobea,  Cyprus  vine,  hyacinth 
bean  (Dolichos  Lablab),  moonflower,  morning  glory,  nas- 
turtium and  scarlet  runner  bean. 

Some  vines  are  desirable  for  their  rampant  growth,  i.e., 
wild  cucumber  or  balsam  apple  (Echinocystis  lobata),  and 
various  species  of  gourds.  These  may  be  used  for  temporary 
screens  or  for  covering  old  sheds,  etc.  The  hop-vine  may  be 
similarly  used.  The  balloon- vine  (Cardiospermum  Eali- 
cacabum),  has  interesting  fruits.  Some  vines  have  a  peren- 
nial root,  but  the  top  is  annual,  i.e.,  allegheny  vine  (Adlumia 
fungosa),  cinnamon  vine  (Dioscorea  Batatas),  and  Japanese 
kudzu  vine  (Pueraria  Thunbergiana).  The  best  climber 
for  a  very  warm  situation  is  maderia  vine  (Bous sin gaultia 
baselloides).  This  vine  has  tuberous  roots  which  must  be 
lifted  and  stored  during  winter.  It  is  a  tender  vine,  which 
attains  from  10  to  20  feet  in  a  season,  and  bears  fragrant 
white  flowers  in  the  autumn.  In  the  North,  it  should 
be  planted  in  full  exposure  to  the  summer  afternoon  sun. 
Because  of  its  tidiness,  it  is  suitable  for  planting  on  porches. 


300  Landscape  Gardening 

Subtropical  Plants 

Strongly  marked  features  in  lawn  or  in  garden  may  be 
produced  by  the  use  of  subtropical  plants,  i.e.,  those  with 
large  leaves  or  large  growth  of  stem  and  flowers.  They 
may  be  so  grouped  together  as  to  render  otherwise  tame 
landscape  views  attractive.  Most  of  these  plants  being 
tender  and  requiring  a  rich  and  moist,  warm  soil,  they  cannot 
be  put  out  until  the  ground  has  become  well  warmed  and 
are  better  to  be  started  under  glass  and  grown  to  con- 
siderable size  if  immediate  effect  is  desired.  Among  those 
that  can  be  most  easily  grown  and  give  the  best  results 
are  the  following: 

Canae  (Canna,  vars.  and  hybrids),  Fig.  167. — These 
rapidly-growing  plants  vary  from  i  to  6  feet  in  height,  and 
in  foliage  from  the  brightest  green  to  a  very  dark  purple, 
and  with  a  great  variety  of  blossoms,  especially  the  new 
strains  of  the  French  and  hybrid  cannas,  which  are  exceed- 
ingly showy  and  beautiful.  The  tubers  are  easily  preserved 
in  any  warm,  medium-dry  ^cellar,  and  are  rapidly  propagated 
by  division  in  March  or  April,  each  bud  making  a  strong 
plant.  For  those  who  have  no  greenhouses  the  windowbox 
or  a  shallow  box  of  soil  placed  behind  the  kitchen  stove  or  in 
a  light,  warm  cellar  will  serve  as  a  very  good  place  in  which  to 
propagate  them.  The  tubers  should  be  cut  into  single  eyes 
or  buds,  covered  with  2  or  3  inches  of  rich,  sandy  soil,  and 
the  temperature  kept  at  about  65°,  when  they  will  quickly 
start  into  growth  and  be  ready  for  transplanting  to  the  open 
ground  about  June  ist.  In  grouping  cannas  the  best 
results  are  obtained  by  placing  varieties  in  groups,  with  as 
great  a  contrast  of  foliage  or  color  of  flowers  as  possible; 
the  larger  ones  in  the  centre  of  the  bed  or  group  and  the 
smaller  ones  on  the  outside.  Most  of  the  leading  florists 
and  seed-  and  plant-dealers  now  offer  an  abundance  of 


Herbaceous  Plants 


301 


FIG.  167. — Canna  (Canna,  hybrid] 


302 


Landscape  Gardening 


beautiful  varieties  at  low  prices,  and  when  a  small  stock  is 
once  obtained  by  a  little  skill  in  keeping  them  through  the 
winter  it  may  be  increased  very  rapidly. 
Castor  Bean   (Ricinus  communis),  Fig.  168. — This  plant 


FIG.  1 68. — Castor-bean  (Ricinus  communis). 

is  especially  ornamental  on  account  of  its  broad  lobed 
leaves,  large  showy  panicle  of  flowers,  and  fruit-pods.  The 
seed  should  be  started  in  pots  under  glass  or  in  hotbeds,  in 
April,  and  be  grown  to  a  foot  or  more  in  height  before  plant- 
ing out  to  obtain  results  early  in  the  season.  They  should 


Herbaceous  Plants  303 

not  be  put  out  into  the  open  ground,  however,  until  about 
June  i  st.  As  a  single  specimen  in  the  centre  of  a  large  bed 
or  as  the  background  for  other  small  foliage-plants  they  are 
very  effective. 

Caladium  (Caladium  esculentum  Hort). — The  leaves  of 
this  plant  are  broad  and  heart-shaped,  often  2  feet  across, 
and  hanging  obliquely  on  the  leaf-stalk  make  very  beauti- 
ful borders  for  beds  of  cannas  or  castor  bean  plants,  or 


FIG.  169. — Egyptian  Papyrus  (Papyrus  antiquorum). 

r~. 

they  make  pleasing  single  specimens  on  the  lawn.  It  is 
also  especially  useful  among  rockwork  and  on  the  border 
of  water.  It  required  the  same  treatment  as  the  canna, 
though  perhaps  more  heat  in  starting  it  into  growth  than  the 
latter. 

Egyptian  Paper-reed  or  Papyrus  (Papyrus  antiquorum) , 
Fig.  169. — This  beautiful  plant  is  being  much  less  used 
than  it  should  be.  It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  easily 
grown  plants,  either  on  the  lawn,  in  ordinary  garden  soil, 
or  on  the  borders  of  ponds  or  basins  of  fountains.  Plants 


304  Landscape  Gardening 

in  6-  or  8-inch  pots  planted  in  early  June  will  make  clumps 
that  would  fill  a  1 5-inch  pot  and  be  8  feet  high  by  Sep- 
tember. It  is  best  wintered  over  in  a  warm  greenhouse  and 
should  have  an  abundance  of  water.  Probably  it  could  be 
carried  over  in  a  warm  cellar,  but  I  know  of  no  instance  of 
its  having  been  done. 

Abyssinian  Banana  (Musa  Ensete). — In  a  warm, 
sheltered  location,  where  the  wind  will  not  whip  and  lash 
the  leaves,  this  is  one  of  the  grandest  of  the  subtropical 
plants.  For  the  best  results  the  seed  should  be  started 
under  glass  at  least  one  year  before  they  are  wanted  for 
outdoor  work,  at  which  time  they  should  be  4  feet  high 
and  in  lo-inch  pots.  In  a  warm,  rich  soil  such  plants  will 
grow  to  10  feet  in  height  in  a  single  season,  and  nothing 
gives  a  more  tropical  effect  on  the  lawn  or  in  the  garden. 
Plants  may  be  wintered  over  in  a  warm,  dry  cellar  or  in  a 
cool  greenhouse  and  be  made  to  serve  two  or  three  summers' 
decoration. 

The  Blue-gum  Tree  (Eucalyptus  globulus). — The  beauti- 
ful blue  or  glaucous  color  of  the  foliage  of  this  tree  together 
with  its  rapid  growth  makes  it  very  useful  upon  the  lawn. 
It  is  even  more  glaucous  than  the  best  of  the  Colorado  blue 
spruces,  and  in  contrast  with  the  dark  foliage  of  evergreens, 
purple  beeches,  plums,  etc.,  the  effect  is  very  beautiful. 
The  plants  must  be  started  about  a  year  before  wanted 
and  be  kept  growing,  when  they  will  reach  from  4  to  6  feet 
in  height.  Such  plants  out  of  doors  in  June  and  in  rich 
soil  will  grow  to  10  or  12  feet  in  one  season.  They  can  be 
carried  over  for  a  second  year's  decoration  by  moving  to  a 
cool  greenhouse  before  severe  frosts. 

Cacti. — Many  species  of  these  unique  and  picturesque 
plants  may  be  used  for  outdoor  decoration  during  the 
summer,  and  especially  in  connection  with  ledges  and  rock- 
work,  where  they  are  very  appropriate,  None  of  the  large 


Herbaceous  Plants  305 

species  are  hardy  and  must  be  wintered  in  a  cool  greenhouse 
or  very  dry  cellar.  The  plants  when  thus  set  out  make  a 
clean,  healthy  growth  during  the  summer,  and  need  to  be 
kept  very  dry  during  the  winter.  It  is  generally  better  to 
plunge  the  pots  rather  deep  in  the  ground  than  to  turn 
them  out,  especially  if  the  soil  is  inclined  to  be  dry. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

AQUATIC   PLANTS,   HARDY   FERNS,   AND    ORNAMENTAL 
GRASSES 

Aquatic  Plants 

WHEREVER  bodies  of  water  occur,  whether  large  or  small, 
natural  lakes,  streams,  artificial  ponds,  or  fountain-basins, 
their  decoration  with  more  or  less  of  the  water-loving  plants 
— aquatics — can  be  made  to  greatly  increase  the  naturally 
beautiful  effects  of  such  features  of  landscape,  Fig.  146. 
Much  interest  has  been  awakened  in  the  past  few  years  in 
these  plants,  and  many  growers  of,  and  dealers  in,  aquatic 
plants  are  found  in  different  sections  of  the  country.  There 
has  been  a  great  increase  in  the  growth  of  these  plants  for 
ornamentation,  especially  in  parks  and  public  grounds  as 
well  as  on  many  private  places.  Many  of  the  aquatics 
are  easily  grown  in  any  shallow  body  of  water  that  is  not  fed 
by  cold  springs  or  mountain  streams,  but  some  of  them,  like 
the  Victoria  regia,  require  more  or  less  artificial  heat,  that 
may  be  carried  to  the  water  by  steam  or  hot-water  pipes 
from  some  greenhouse  or  other  heating-plant.  Many  of 
them  are  started  from  seed,  while  some  of  them  are  prop- 
agated by  division  of  the  roots.  Full  direction  for  germi- 
nating the  seed  and  growing  the  plants  may  be  obtained 
from  the  catalogues  of  dealers  in  this  class  of  plants.  The 
growth  of  only  the  most  hardy  of  these  plants  should  be 
attempted  unless  one  has  a  warm  shallow  pond,  or  tank, 
with  a  sunny  exposure,  or  can  in  some  way  apply  artificial 

306 


308  Landscape  Gardening 

heat.     In  cases  of  sudden  low  temperature  some  means  of 
protecting  the  plants  should  be  at  hand. 

Soil. — The  soil  best  suited  to  the  growth  of  most  of  the 
aquatics,  especially  the  water-lilies,  is  one  made  of  equal 
parts  of  good  garden  soil  and  well-decomposed  stable  ma- 
nure. If  the  plants  are  grown  from  seed,  they  need  to  be 
transplanted  two  or  three  times  until  large  enough  to  put 
into  the  open  air,  when  they  should  be  planted  in  a  box  or 
tub  or  be  sunken  in  the  mud,  in  a  pond  or  tank,  pressing  the 
soil  firmly  about  the  roots,  and  then  covering  the  surface 
of  the  soil  with  coarse  sand  or  gravel.  It  matters  little  what 
the  depth  of  water  over  the  plants  is  after  well  established; 
it  may  be  3  inches  or  3  or  more  feet;  but  for  the  water-lilies, 
it  should  never  get  so  low  as  to  have  the  leaves  rest  on  the 
soil  for  any  considerable  length  of  time.  After  good  growth 
has  begun,  if  the  soil  is  in  the  proper  condition,  but  little 
care  need  be  given  except  to  see  that  the  water  does  not 
all  evaporate,  or  that  muskrats  do  not  get  at  and  destroy 
the  roots,  of  which  they  are  very  fond.  .  Every  means 
possible,  by  poisoning,  trapping,  shooting,  etc.,  should  be 
taken  to  get  rid  of  the  above  pests,  as  a  single  pair  of  these 
animals  will  destroy  a  large  number  of  plants  in  a  short 
time.  Among  the  plants  that  grow  directly  in  the  water 
are  the  following : 

Lotus,  Egyptian.  Water-lilies,  Royal  Purple. 

Lotus,  White  Japanese.  Water-lilies,  Superb. 

Lotus,  Striped  Japanese.  Water-lilies,  Devonian. 

Lotus,  Native.  Water-lilies,  East  Indian. 

Water-lilies,  Hardy.  Water-lilies,  White  African. 

Water-lilies,  Rose-flowered  Water-lilies,  Royal  or  Victoria. 

Water-lilies,  Large-flowered.  Water-hyacinth. 

Water-lilies,  Yellow-flowered.  Water-poppy. 

Water-lilies,  European.  Salvinia. 

Water-lilies,  Day-blooming.  Papyrus,  Egyptian. 

Water-lilies,  Purple  African.  Flag,  Variegated. 

Porcupine-plant.  Arrowhead. 


Aquatic  Plants,  Hardy  Ferns,  Etc.         309 

Parrot's-feather.  Scouring-rush. 

Wild  Rice.  Pickerel-weed. 

Cat-o'-nine-tail.  Bulrush. 

Burweed.  Bur-marigold. 
Water-plantain. 

East  Indian  Lotus  (N dumbo  roseum),  Fig.  172. — A 
most  beautiful  plant,  with  large  peltate  or  round-shield- 
shaped  leaves  and  large  pink  or  rose-colored  flowers.  It  is 
easily  grown  in  shallow,  warm-water  ponds,  or  in  tubs, 
where  it  blooms  freely.  Use  a  rich,  heavy,  but  not  clayey 
loam. 

The  other  species  of  nelumbiums  that  succeed  almost 
equally  well  with  the  above  and  require  the  same  treatment 
are  the  WHITE  JAPANESE  (N.  album  grandiflorum) ,  STRIPED 
JAPANESE  (N.  album  striatum),  and  the  EGYPTIAN  LOTUS 
(N.  speciosum).  The  latter  resembles  the  first  species,  but 
the  flowers  are  paler  in  color  and  not  so  large  and  full.  The 
native  YELLOW  LOTUS  (N.  lutea)  is  found  growing  in  the 
ponds  and  streams  of  the  South  and  Southwest,  and  succeeds 
as  an  annual  in  warm,  sheltered  places  much  further  north. 
All  of  the  above  species  are  claimed  to  be  perfectly  hardy 
in  the  Northern  and  Western  States  if  covered  with  water 
deep  enough  so  that  the  ground  around  their  roots  will  not 
freeze,  i.e.,  2  to  3  feet  deep,  according  to  latitude. 

Hardy  Water-Klies. — Our  native  water-lilies,  found 
in  many  sections  of  the  country,  are  very  beautiful  and 
easily  grown,  the  principal  requirements  being  a  deep, 
muddy  soH.  Only  water  enough  to  cover  the  roots  is  all 
that  is  absolutely  necessary,  but  they  generally  grow  to 
greater  perfection  in  2  or  3  feet  of  water.  In  deep  water 
they  are  easily  planted  by  tying  the  roots  to  stones  and 
dropping  them  in  where  wanted. 

Many  beautiful  varieties  are  now  propagated  and  offered 
for  sale,  among  the  best  of  which  are  the  ROSE-FLOWERED 


310  Landscape  Gardening 


FlG.  172.— East  India  Lotus  (Nelumbo  roseum). 


Aquatic  Plants,  Hardy  Ferns,  Etc.         311 

WATER-LILY    (Nymphaa    odorata,    var.    rosed),    Fig.    172, 
LARGE-FLOWERED  WATER-LILY  (N.  o.,  var.  superba),  YEL- 
LOW WATER-LILY  (N.  o.  sulphur  >  a). 
The  European  White  Water-lily  (N.  alba  var.  candidis- 


FIG.  172. — Nymphaea  Rosea. 

sima)  produces  rather  larger  flowers  than  our  native  species, 
is  equally  hardy,  and  a  more  abundant  bloomer. 

Tender  Water-lilies. — The  flowers  of  this  group  of  water- 
lilies  give  a  greater  variety  of  forms  and  colors  than  those 
last  described.  They  bloom  more  freely,  showing  flowers 
from  July  to  September,  if  planted  in  shallow  warm-water 


312  Landscape  Gardening 

ponds  or  basins.  They  can  also  be  grown  in  tubs  with 
good  success,  but  the  roots  must  be  wintered  in  a  green- 
house-tank or  be  purchased  at  the  beginning  of  every  season. 
If  considerable  skill  is  exercised  by  covering  the  plants  with 
barrels,  then  with  leaves  and  straw,  they  may  be  carried 
over  winter  in  the  tank  or  pond. 

They  may  be  divided  into  two  groups:  i.e.,  first,  those 
blooming  during  the  day,  opening  m  the  morning  and 
closing  at  night;  and  second,  those  opening  in  the  evening, 
remaining  open  during  the  night  and  until  toward  noon 
the  following  day. 

The  best  of  the  DAY-BLOOMING  varieties  are:  PURPLE 
ZANZIBAR  OR  AFRICAN  LILY  (Nymphoea  Zanzibarensis) , 
ROYAL  PURPLE  AFRICAN  LILY  (N.  Z.  var.  azurea),  SUPERB 
AFRICAN  LILY  (N.  Z.  superba).  These  species  may 
be  had  in  bloom  constantly  from  July  to  September, 
if  planted  in  rich  soil  in  shallow,  warm  water  in  ponds, 
basins,  or  tubs.  For  the  best  results  in  tubs  they  should 
be  placed  on  the  south,  southeast,  or  southwest  shelter  of 
buildings  or  shrubbery,  where  the  sun  will  strike  them  for 
6  to  8  hours  per  day.  A  bright,  sunny  exposure  is  also 
desirable  for  the  location  of  the  pond  or  tank,  that  the 
water  may  be  kept  as  warm  as  possible. 

The  best  varieties  o£  the  NIGHT-BLOOMERS  are :  The 
DEVONIAN  WATER-LILY  (Nymphcea  Devoniensis),  one  of 
the  choicest  and  most  beautiful,  with  bright  rose-colored 
flowers  and  scarlet  stamens.  EAST  INDIAN  WATER-LILY 
(N.  rubra).  WHITE  AFRICAN  WATER-LILY  (N.  dentata), 
one  of  the  most  free  bloomers,  with  flowers  of  large  size  and 
very  easily  grown.  ROYAL  WATER-LILY  (Victoria  regia), 
the  largest  of  all  the  water-lilies,  its  leaves  often  measuring 
4  feet  across  and  the  flowers  a  foot  in  diameter.  Very 
few  persons  succeed  in  blooming  this  royal  flower,  and  then 
it  is  done  only  where  artificial  heat  is  introduced  from  some 


Aquatic  Plants,  Hardy  Ferns,  Etc.        313 

greenhouse  or  other  steam  or  hot-water  plant  near  by.  But 
where  such  facilities  are  available  the  results  generally  well 
repay  the  effort,  for  nothing  of  an  aquatic  growth  can  exceed 
the  grandeur  of  the  immense  floating  leaves  and  large  gor- 
geously colored  flowers  of  this  plant. 


J- 


FIG.  173. — Water-poppy  (Limnocharis  Humboldtii). 

Many  other  water-loving  plants  besides  the  water-lilies 
may  be  used  with  good  effect  in  aquatic  gardens.  These 
may  be  divided  into  those  growing  directly  in  deep  water 
and  those  growing  in  the  moist  soil  on  its  borders.  Of  the 
first  are  the 

Water-hyacinth  (Eichhornia  crassipes). — The  flowers  of 
this  plant  resemble  those  of  the  common  light-blue  hyacinth, 


314  Landscape  Gardening 

and  by  some  it  is  likened  to  a  species  of  orchid-blossoms. 
It  grows  freely  in  shallow  warm  water,  each  plant,  after 
separating  from  its  parent,  floating,  driven  about  by  the 
winds  or  currents  from  one  side  of  the  pond  or  basin  to  the 
other.  It  blooms  freely  and  the  very  abundant  floating 
roots  and  inflated  petioles  or  leaf-stalks  are  very  interesting. 

Water  Poppy  (Limnocharis  Humboldtii),  Fig.  173. — 
The  bright  lemon-colored  flowers  of  this  little  plant  add 
very  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  any  collection  of  aquatics. 
Plants  set  out  in  June  grow  rapidly  and  bloom  freely. 

Salvinia  (S.  Braziliensis). — A  very  pretty  little  float- 
ing plant  with  light-green,  almost  heart-shaped  leaves, 
covered  with  many  soft  hairs.  It  grows  freely,  and  floating 
about  among  the  larger  plants  has  a  very  pleasing  effect. 

Papyrus  or  Reed  Paper-plants  (Papyrus  antiquorum). 
— This  plant  has  already  been  described  under  "  Sub  tropi- 
cal Plants,"  but  is  equally  useful  and  beautiful  for  the 
borders  of  ponds  and  fountain-basins.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  of  plants,  wherever  grown,  its  graceful 
umbrella-like  clusters  of  leaves  being  entirely  unlike  any 
foliage  of  the  temperate  zone.  It  grows  equally  well  on 
the  banks  or  in  the  water  at  the  border,  and  makes  a 
beautiful  centre  plant  for  a  group  of  other  upland  aquatics 
or  in  large  clusters  by  itself. 

Variegated  Flag  (Acorus  gramineus  var.  variegatus). — Our 
native  "sweet  flag"  is  familiar  to  most  persons,  and  this 
plant  is  very  much  like  it  except  that  it  has  most  beauti- 
fully variegated  green  and  white  leaves.  It  is  perfectly 
hardy  and  grows  freely. 

Porcupine  Plant  (Scirpus  Taberncemontani  var.  zebrina). — 
A  beautiful  hardy  plant  with  round  leafless  stems,  beauti- 
fully marked  in  sections  of  white  and  green,  giving  it  some- 
thing of  the  appearance  of  the  quills  of  the  porcupine. 
This  plant  and  the  variegated  flag  can  be  so  grouped  with 


Aquatic  Plants,  Hardy  Ferns,  Etc          315 

the  light-  and  dark-green,  the  broad-  and  the  narrow-leaved 
aquatics  as  to  produce  most  beautiful  effects. 

Parrot's  Feather  (Myriophyllum  proserpinacoides). — This 
beautiful  plant  will  serve  so  many  purposes  for  water 
decoration,  makes  so  rapid  growth,  and  is  so  easily  grown 
that  it  should  be  cultivated  more  often  than  it  now  is. 
It  makes  a  most  beautiful  border-plant  for  ponds  and 
fountain-basins,  and  planted  in  the  pans  of  large  fountains 
its  drooping  growth  in  with  the  falling  water  produces  most 
charming  effects.  It  may  be  successfully  grown  in  hanging 
baskets  or  basins  and  over  the  stones  in  aquaria.  It  is  so 
easily  propagated  that  even  small  shoots,  taken  off  and  placed 
in  rather  warm  water,  root  in  a  very  few  days. 

Wild  Rice  (Zizania  aquatica). — A  rapid-growing  grass 
of  large  size  and  graceful  form.  It  is  easily  grown,  in  fact 
in  some  places  it  spreads  so  rapidly  from  self-sown  seed  as 
to  become  a  nuisance  unless  heroically  weeded  out  in  the 
early  summer. 

Many  native  plants  are  useful  for  decorating  borders  of 
ponds  and  streams,  among  the  best  of  which  are  the  fol- 
lowing: CAT-TAIL  (Typha  latifolia),  BUR-REED  (Spargan- 
ium  simplex),  WATER-PLANTAIN  (Alisma  plants  go-aquaticd), 
ARROWHEAD  (Sagittaria  laiifolia),  SCOURING-RUSH  (Equise- 
tums  sp.\  BULRUSH  (Scirpus  sp.),  PICKEREL- WEED  (Ponte- 
deria  cordata),  BUR-MARIGOLD  (Bidens  sp.\  and  many 
species  of  sedges  (Car ex),  all  of  which  are  found  in  or  about 
our  ponds  and  streams  and  many  may  be  easily  trans- 
planted to  more  cultivated  locations.  Some  of  them,  like 
the  Bidens  and  Typha,  etc.,  seed  very  freely,  and  a  little 
heroic  thinning  will  be  needed  to  prevent  them  from  over- 
running the  space  needed  for  more  desirable  plants. 


FIG.  174.— Group  of  Hardy  Ferns. 


316 


Aquatic  Plants,  Hardy  Ferns,  Etc.        317 


Hardy  Ferns 

There  are  many  hardy  species  of  large-growing  ferns  that 
are  beautiful  and  easily  grown  and  especially  suited  for  the 
decoration  of  moist,  shaded  places.  They  thrive  best  in  a 
rather  moist  soil,  but  if  in  the  shade  many  of  them  will  grow 
luxuriantly  in  even  thin  soil  if  some  compost  is  put  about 
the  roots  in  the  fall.  They  are  easily  transplanted  and 
may  be  moved  from  the  woods  or  roadside  at  almost  any 
time  if  a  large  clump  of  roots  and  soil  is  taken  up,  but 
perhaps  the  best  time  is  when  they  are  beginning  to  grow 
in  the  spring  and  early  summer.  Fig.  174. 

Among  the  best  are  MAIDENHAIR  FERN  (Adiantum  peda- 
tum),  ROYAL  OR  FLOWERING  FERN  (Osmunda  regalis), 
CINNAMON  FERN  (Osmunda  cinnamonea),  INTERRUPTED  FERN 
(Osmunda  Claytoniana),  WOOD  OR  SHIELD  FERNS  (Dryopteris 
marginale  and  spinulosa),  CHRISTMAS  FERN  (Polystichun 
acrostichoidcs),  OSTRICH  FERN  (Onoclca  slruthiopteris),  RAT- 
TLESNAKE FERN  (Boirychium  virginianum),  BLADDER  FERN 
(Cystopteris  bulbiferd).  POLYPODY  OR  WALL  FERN  (Poly- 
podium  vulgarc),  and  Woodsia  Ihcnsis  and  obtusa  are  espe- 
cially useful  for  rocks  and  dry  wooded  places. 

Ornamental  Grasses 

Fig.  176  shows  a  very  pretty  grouping  of  grasses  about 
the  underpinning  of  the  house. 

A  number  of  hardy  and  very  ornamental  grasses  may  play 
an  important  part  in  home  lawn  decorations,  either  in 
masses  by  themselves  or  planted  with  groups  of  other 
decorative  plants,  trees,  or  shrubs.  They  are  easily  grown 
from  seed  and  propagated  by  division  of  the  clump;  one 
clump  of  two  or  three  years'  growth  may  often  be  divided  so 
as  to  make  a  score  or  more  plants.  The  great  advantage 
of  these  grasses  is  that  most  of  them  are  perfectly  hardy  and 
require  but  little  care,  Among  the  best  are  the  following: 


318 


Landscape  Gardening 


Pampas-grass  (Cortaderiaargentea),  not  quite  hardy  north 
of  New  York  City,  JAPAN  PLUME-GRASSES  or  EULALIAS 
(Fig.  127),  Miscanthus  sinensis,  M.  s.  var.  zebrina,  M.  s.  var. 


Aquatic  Plants,  Hardy  Ferns,  Etc.         319 

variegatus,  and  M  s.  var.  gracillimus.)  The  eulalias  all 
make  beautiful  winter  decorations  arranged  by  themselves 
or  with  other  "  immortelle  "  flowers.  GIANT  REED  (Arundo 
Donax),  requiring  some  protection  at  the  North,  both 


FIG.  176. — Japanese  Plume-grass  Miscanthus  sinensis  var.  zebrina.} 

plain  and  variegated,  etc.,  and  RIBBON-GRASS  (Phalaris  arun- 
dinacece),  plain  and  variegated,  are  ornamental.  The  last 
species  spreads  rapidly  and  should  be  kept  within  bounds 
by  spading  up  and  pulling  out  all  the  suckers  or  stolons 
as  soon  as  they  get  beyond  the  limits  of  the  bed  or  space 
it  is  desired  that  it  shall  occupy. 


CHAPTER  XV 

INSECTS  AND  FUNGI  ATTACKING  ORNAMENTAL 
TREES,  SHRUBS,   ETC. 

ONE  of  the  greatest  difficulties  one  has  to  contend  with 
in  the  care  of  ornamental  trees,  shrubs,  etc.,  is  the  injury 
caused  by  insects  and  fungous  pests,  and  in  this  chapter  a 
brief  outline  of  the  most  destructive  pests  will  be  given, 
with  the  best  and  most  easily  applied  remedies. 

The  injury  done  to  ornamentals  by  the  above  pests  is  very 
great,  though  not  so  large  as  that  to  fruit  and  garden  crops. 
It  is  the  history  of  all  cultivated  plants  that  the  longer  and 
more  largely  any  one  kind  is  grown  the  more  rapidly  will  its 
natural  enemies,  i.e.,  insects  and  parasitic  fungi,  increase, 
and  the  more  ornamental  homes  we  have  the  more  need 
there  will  be  to  resort  to  protective  or  remedial  measures  to 
secure  satisfactory  growth. 

No  attempt  will  be  made  at  a  strictly  technical  descrip- 
tion of  species,  but  the  author  will  endeavor  to  give  a  brief, 
plain  description  such  as  will  enable  the  practical  gardener 
or  home-owner  to  detect  the  pests  that  may  be  injuring  his 
pets  and  to  apply  remedies  that  shall  save  them  from  de- 
struction. 

In  making  up  this  list  the  author  is  indebted  to  the  many 
carefully  recorded  results  given  in  the  bulletins  of  the 
experiment-stations  published  by  several  States,  which 
together  with  a  large  practical  experience  in  the  care  of 
nearly  all  species  and  varieties  of  ornamental  trees,  shrubs, 
etc.,  he  hopes  will  enable  him  to  present  the  latest  and  best 

320 


Insects  and  Fungi  Attacking  Trees,  Etc.     321 

methods  of  preventing  serious  loss  from  the  above  pests. 
The  reader  is  referred  to  the  popular  bulletins  published 
by  the  various  experiment-stations  often  giving  illus- 
trations of  destructive  insect  or  fungous  pests  with  full 
treatment  for  their  destruction.  If  one  finds  a  pest  at  work 
and  is  not  familiar  with  it,  specimens  should  be  sent  at  once 
to  the  entomologists  or  botanist  of  the  station  of  his  state 
for  identification  and  advice  as  to  remedies. 

Insecticides 

(Insect-destroyers.) 

Practically  there  are  but  very  few  of  the  common  insecti- 
cides needed  or  of  much  value  in  the  preservation  of  farm, 
garden,  or  ornamental  crops,  and  these  are  Paris  green, 
arsenate  of  lead,  Pyrethrum  powder,  hellebore,  lime  and 
sulphur  solution  and  soluble  oils,  whale-oil  soap,  and  tobacco 
water.  The  first  four  are  used  for  the  destruction  of  chewing 
insects  and  the  others  for  sucking  insects. 

Paris  Green  is  a  deadly  poison  and  should  be  used  with 
extreme  caution,  and  never  be  applied  in  large  quantities  to 
crops  used  as  food  or  be  kept  in  such  places  as  to  be  accessi- 
ble to  irresponsible  persons  or  children. 

Pure  Paris  green  contains  but  a  small  per  cent  of  soluble 
arsenious  acid,  and  can  be  used  without  injury  upon  most 
plants  in  sufficient  quantities  to  destroy  any  insects  that 
feed  by  biting  or  chewing  the  parts.  Samples  containing 
more  than  4  per  cent  of  soluble  arsenious  acid  should  be 
used  with  considerable  caution. 

Paris  green  alone  can  be  safely  used  only  at  the  rate  of 
i  pound  to  250  or  300  gallons  of  water.  This,  however,  is 
a  very  small  quantity,  and  to  enable  more  to  be  used  lime  is 
added  to  neutralize  the  soluble  arsenious  acid.  Two  pounds 
of  lime  slaked  in  water  and  added  to  25  gallons  of  water 
will  enable  us  to  use  as  much  as  i  pound  of  Paris  green 


322  Landscape  Gardening 

to  100  and  even  50  gallons  of  water  without  injury  to  the 
foliage.  When  the  Bordeaux  mixture  (see  "  Fungicides ") 
is  used,  the  lime  in  that  mixture  has  the  same  effect,  and 
i  pound  of  Paris  green  to  50  or  100  gallons  of  the  mixture 
may  be  used  without  injury  to  the  foliage  (except  upon 
the  peach  and  cherry  trees),  and  the  work  of  destroying 
insects  and  fungi  thus  reduced  one-half. 

Arsenate  of  Lead  is  similar  in  effect  to  Paris  green, 
but  is  a  combination  of  arsenic  with  lead  instead  of  copper. 
It  is  less  soluble  than  the  former,  adheres  longer  to  the 
foliage  and  will  not  burn  the  leaves  when  used  in  large 
quantities.  It  can  be  used  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture  or 
the  lime  sulphur  solution,  and  being  in  the  form  of  a  white 
powder  or  paste  may  be  more  readily  detected  upon  the 
leaves.  In  cost  it  is  about  the  same  per  pound  as  Paris 
green,  but  about  twice  as  much  is  needed  to  do  effectual 
work.  Arsenate  of  lead  may  be  used  as  a  dry  powder  with 
lime  or  flour  or  in  water. 

Lime-sulphur  Solution. — This  is  a  solution  that  kills 
scale,  aphides  (plant  lice),  etc.,  by  contact,  many  brands  of 
which  are  to  be  found  in  the  market. 

It  is  unpleasant  to  use  on  account  of  its  caustic  properties, 
and  in  spraying  it  is  best  to  apply  with  the  wind.  It  is 
effectual  as  a  fungicide  used  at  the  rate  of  from  3  to  5  gallons 
to  50  gallons  of  water  while  the  trees  are  dormant,  or  i  to 
i^r  gallons  to  50  of  water  when  in  foliage.  SELF-BOILED  lime- 
sulphur  is  made  by  slaking  fresh  caustic  lime  in  a  small 
amount  of  water  and  when  at  its  highest  adding  an  equal 
quantity  of  fine  sulphur.  Cover  and  let  boil  until  a  molasses- 
like  liquid  is  formed,  which  is  to  be  diluted  as  for  the  com- 
mercial lime-sulphur  solution. 

P'"  Soluble  Oil  is  made  by  treating  crude  petroleum  so  as 
to  make  it  soluble  in  water.  This  kills  scale  insects,  aphides, 
etc.,  and  all  sucking  insects  by  contact. 


Insects  and  Fungi  Attacking  Trees,  Etc.      323 

For  scale  insects  it  is  applied  to  the  trees  at  any  time  after 
the  leaves  fall  in  the  autumn  until  growth  begins  in  the 
spring. 

Both  this  and  the  lime-sulphur  solution  are  equally 
effectual  in  destroying  scale  and  other  insects,  but  the  oil 
spreads  more  evenly  over  the  small  branches  and  buds  and 
does  not  require  quite  as  much  care  in  application. 

In  the  application  of  both  insecticides  and  fungicides  the 
directions  given  upon  the  packages  should  be  carefully 
followed. 

Hellebore  Powder. — This  is  a  fine  powder  made  from 
grinding  the  roots  of  Veratrum  album,  and  will  kill  most 
chewing  insects.  It,  however,  is  more  expensive  and  does 
not  adhere  so  well  to  the  foliage  as  Paris  green  and  arse- 
nate  of  lead,  even  if  used  in  lime  solutions  or  water.  It 
will  not,  however,  injure  the  foliage,  and  is  not  nearly  so 
poisonous — not  dangerously  so  unless  taken  into  the  lungs 
or  stomach  in  large  quantities.  It  is  best  used  in  water  or 
dusted  on  while  the  foliage  is  wet  with  rain  or  dew. 

Kerosene  Emulsion. — Formula:  |  pound  common  bar 
soap,  2  gallons  water,  2  gallons  common  kerosene. 

Dissolve  the  soap  in  the  hot  water;  while  still  hot,  add 
the  kerosene  and  churn  back  and  forth  with  a  garden- 
pump  or  syringe  until  a  milk  or  cream-like  liquid  is  formed. 
When  cold,  dilute  with  water  to  make  from  10  to  25  gallons 
of  liquid.  This  is  used  for  the  destruction  of  sucking  insects 
like  aphides  (plant-lice),  scale  insects,  etc. 

Whale-oil  Soap  is  very  frequently  used  as  an  insecti- 
cide at  the  rate  of  from  i  pound  to  3  to  5  gallons  of  water, 
according  to  the  insect  to  be  destroyed. 

Pyrethrum  or  Persian  Insect  Powder. — This  substance 
is  made  from  the  flowers  of  two  or  three  species  of  pyrethrum 
or  feverfew  (chrysanthemum),  the  flower-heads  of  which 
are  ground  to  a  fine  powder,  known  in  the  markets  as  pyre- 


324  Landscape  Gardening 

thrum,  Dalmatian,  Persian,  or  Buhack  insect  powder. 
When  dusted  upon  some  kinds  of  insects  in  the  latter  part 
of  the  afternoon  or  evening,  it  will  paralyze  them  and  those 
remaining  under  its  influence  during  the  entire  night  are 
killed.  Many  of  these  insects  would  soon  recover  if  it  were 
applied  in  the  morning  or  middle  of  the  day.  Young 
insects  are  more  susceptible  to  its  effect  than  older  ones, 
but  as  most  of  the  aphides  and  other  sucking  insects  are 
short-lived,  several  applications  at  intervals  of  a  few  days 
or  a  week  will  destroy  most  of  them. 

Fungicides 

(Fungus-destroyers.) 

The  use  of  fungicides  becomes  necessary  to  protect  many 
of  our  trees  and  shrubs  from  fungous  growths,  i.e.,  mil- 
dews, rusts,  blights,  etc.,  which  often  do  serious  injury, 
and  lime  sulphur  solution  or  copper  in  one  form  or  another 
is  the  substance  most  commonly  used  to  destroy  these  pests. 
When  once  a  fungous  growth  has  become  established  in 
the  tissues  of  a  plant,  nothing  will  kill  or  dislodge  it  that 
will  not  destroy  the  host  plant,  but  the  spores  or  seeds  of 
the  fungus  may  be  killed  or  be  prevented  from  germinating 
by  a  very  small  amount  of  copper  solution  or  other  fungicides 
coming  in  contact  with  them. 

To  prevent  the  growth,  therefore,  of  the  spores  of  rusts, 
smuts,  mildews,  etc.,  it  becomes  necessary  to  have  the 
fungicides  on  the  parts  of  the  plants  likely  to  be  affected 
whenever  the  spores  (seeds)  come  in  contact  with  the  plant 
under  conditions  of  high  temperature  and  moisture.  These 
spores  are  produced  in  immense  numbers,  an  illustration  of 
which  may  be  seen  in  mass  of  spores  forming  the  large  fruit- 
bunches  of  the  "corn-smut"  or  the  dust  of  the  puffball, 
the  black  substance  of  the  first  and  the  fine  gray  powder  of 


Insects  and  Fungi  Attacking  Trees,  Etc.    325 

the  last  being  composed  of  myriads  of  spores  or  seeds. 
These  spores  are  very  small,  so  small  in  fact  that  they 
are  individually  scarcely  perceptible  to  ordinary  vision  and 
are  carried  about  by  the  slightest  breath  of  air. 

Much  may  be  done  to  prevent  the  growth  of  fungus 
pests  by  keeping  the  trees  or  plants  in  a  vigorous,  healthy 
growth.  This  may  be  done  by  good  cultivation  and  an 
abundance  of  plant-food,  under  which  condition  the  grow- 
ing spores  are  not  so  likely  to  gain  a  foothold  in  the  tissues 
of  the  host  plant;  but  even  with  the  most  vigorous  growth 
we  sometimes  find  that  if  the  weather  is  unusually  hot  and 
the  atmosphere  very  moist  the  spores  will  gain  a  foothold 
and  we  must  have  the  fungicide  on  the  surface  of  the  plant 
to  prevent  the  growth  of  the  spores  should  the  plant  not  be 
able  to  withstand  their  attack. 

Some  seasons,  and  often  for  a  series  of  years,  our  trees 
escape  injury  from  fungus  pests,  but  we  cannot  hope  to 
escape  always,  and  it  is  the  part  of  wisdom  to  learn  with 
what  pests  we  are  threatened,  what  is  the  best  remedy,  and 
how  and  when  to  apply  such  remedies  as  to  most  certainly 
destroy  each  pest.  Among  the  best  fungicides  are  the 
following : 

Copper  Sulphate  (Blue  vitriol). — Copper  has  long  been 
known  to  be  destructive  to  the  spores  of  nearly  all  kinds  of 
moulds,  mildews,  rusts,  etc.,  but  not  until  within  a  few 
years  has  it  been  largely  used  for  the  purpose  of  destroying 
these  growths  on  cultivated  trees,  plants,  and  farm  crops. 
The  form  in  which  it  is  most  used  is  that  of  copper  sulphate 
or  blue  vitriol,  in  which  the  copper  is  united  with  sulphuric 
acid  and  is  in  the  form  of  blue  crystals  (blue  stone).  In  this 
form  it  is  quickly  soluble  and  very  injurious  to  the  growing 
parts  of  plants  unless  used  in  a  very  dilute  form;  i  part  of 
copper  sulphate  to  150  or  200  parts  of  water  being  as  concen- 
trated as  it  can  be  used  without  injury.  In  this  form  it  is 


326  Landscape  Gardening 

quickly  washed  off  by  heavy  rains,  and  to  prevent  this  lime 
is  used  with  it,  forming  what  is  known  as  the 

Bordeaux  Mixture. — Formula:  4  pounds  copper  sul- 
phate, 6  pounds  caustic  (unslaked)  lime,  and  50  gallons 
water. 

By  combining  the  copper  and  lime  it  is  found  that  the 
copper  sulphate  may  be  used  more  freely  and  with  less  injury 
than  if  used  alone,  and  that  it  will  adhere  a  long  time  to 
the  foliage.  To  make  the  Bordeaux  mixture,  dissolve  the 
copper  in  hot  water  (or  if  placed  in  a  coarse  sack  or  basket 
and  suspended  in  a  tub  of  cold  water  it  will  dissolve  in  two 
or  three  hours,  while  if  put  in  cold  water  on  the  bottom 
of  a  tub  or  vessel  it  remains  undissolved  for  a  long  time). 
Then  in  a  separate  tub  slake  the  lime  thoroughly  and  when 
both  are  cold  pour  the  two  together,  stirring  constantly. 
Dilute  with  water  to  make  50  gallons  of  liquid.  In  this 
form  it  is  more  difficult  to  apply  than  a  simple  solution, 
but  the  lime  causes  it  to  adhere  for  a  long  time  and  spray- 
ing need  not  be  so  frequently  done.  Before  using,  the 
mixture  should  be  strained  through  a  burlap  or  fine  wire 
strainer  to  take  out  the  coarse  particles  in  the  lime.  The 
Vermorel  or  some  other  adjustable  nozzle  that  will  throw 
a  very  fine  spray  or  mist  must  be  used  to  distribute  the 
material  evenly  and  without  waste  over  the  surface  of  the 
plants. 

If  insects  are  found  attacking  the  plants  to  be  treated 
for  fungous  growths,  Paris  green  or  arsenate  of  lead  may  be 
added  to  the  Bordeaux  mixture  at  the  rate  of  from  5  to  8 
pounds  to  100  gallons  of  the  mixture,  and,  as  stated  on 
a  previous  page,  the  lime  will  prevent  this  large  quan- 
tity of  the  arsenate  from  burning  the  foliage  and  two  pests 
be  destroyed  at  one  spraying.  Arsenate  of  lead  has  largely 
taken  the  place  of  Paris  green  as  an  insecticide,  as  it  can 
be  used  in  larger  quantities.  In  water  5  to  7  pounds  may 


Insects  and  Fungi  Attacking  Trees,  Etc.    327 

be  used  in  cases  of  large  numbers  of  insects  and  3  to  5 
pounds  if  used  with  the  Bordeaux  or  lime-sulphur  solu- 
tion. 

Pumps,  etc.,  for  Applying  Insecticides  and  Fungicides 

For  the  application  of  insecticides  and  fungicides  there 
are  a  great  many  pumps,  machines,  and  guns  made,  and  any 
of  those  made  by  reliable  and  long-established  firms  may 
be  relied  upon  to  do  good  work  if  rightly  handled.  In  every 
case  it  is  desirable,  if  possible,  other  things  being  equal,  to 
obtain  a  pump  made  as  near  home  as  possible,  that  parts 
may  be  replaced  or  repairs  be  made  in  case  of  breakage,  with 
as  little  delay  as  possible. 

Nozzles 

The  number  of  nozzles  made  for  distributing  insecticides 
and  fungicides  is  as  great  as  that  of  pumps,  and  there  are 
many  good  ones.  To  do  the  best  work  the  nozzle  must 
discharge  a  fine  mist-spray  that  will  settle  upon  the  foliage 
and  other  parts  sprayed  in  very  small  particles  and  not 
run  off.  The  one  that  gives  the  finest  spray  without  clogging 
is  the  most  satisfactory.  The  disk  nozzles  of  which  the 
" Friend"  is  a  type  are  now  made  by  most  pump  makers, 
and  is  generally  found  to  be  the  best.  The  nozzle  should  be 
attached  to  the  pole  or  rod  at  an  angle  of  45°  for  the  best 
distribution  of  the  spray  material. 

To  carry  the  spray  to  the  tops  of  trees  of  medium  height 
the  bamboo  extension-rod  or  J-inch  brass  pipe  from  6  to  10 
feet  long  can  be  used  with  success,  but  in  spraying  very 
tall  ones  the  hose  must  be  carried  up  into  the  tree  and  the 
insecticides  or  fungicides  distributed  therefrom.  With  a 
large  pump  worked  by  two  men  or  a  small  engine  two  or 
three  streams  may  be  thrown  at  once  and  the  work  be  done 
rapidly  and  cheaply. 


328 


Landscape  Gardening 


Some  Common  Insects  Injurious  to  Ornamentals 


Elm  Leaf-beetle  (Galerucaxanthomelana),  Fig.  172. — This 
insect  (k),  a  beetle  of  yellowish-brown  color,  about  J  inch  long, 
somewhat  resembling  the  striped  cucumber-beetle,  comes 


Insects  and  Fungi  Attacking  Trees,  Etc.    329 

out  from  its  hibernating  places  in  early  summer,  feeds  upon 
the  foliage  for  a  time  and  lays  its  eggs  on  the  under  side  of 
the  leaves  soon  after  they  unfold.  These  eggs  are  bottle- 
shaped,  of  orange  color,  are  laid  in  clusters  of  from  5  to  20, 
and  attached  to  the  leaf  by  the  larger  end  (e).  The  eggs  soon 
hatch,  and  the  larvae  (g),  of  a  slender  form,  about  J  inch 
long  when  fully  grown,  and  yellowish-brown  color  with  a 
yellow  line  or  band  along  the  back,  feed  rapidly  and  in  from 
two  to  four  weeks  descend  to  the  ground,  where  they  pupate 
under  some  convenient  shelter.  In  some  sections  of  the 
country  as  many  as  three  or  four  broods  are  reported  in  a 
season,  but  in  northern  New  England  it  has  not  been  proved 
that  more  than  one  brood  matures. 

Remedy. — This  pest  is  best  destroyed  by  spraying  with 
arsenate  of  lead  from  3  to  5  pounds  to  50  gallons  of  water. 
The  time  for  spraying  is  the  last  of  May  or  early  in  June  for 
the  destruction  of  the  beetles  (this  date  will  vary  with  loca- 
tion, whether  North  or  South),  and  again  about  the  middle 
of  June  for  the  larvae,  and  if  all  the  larvae  are  not  destroyed 
by  the  first  spraying  one  or  two  more  applications  at  inter- 
vals of  a  week  or  ten  days  should  be  made. 

Elm-scale  (Gossyparia  ulmi),  Fig.  178. — Very  little 
seems  to  be  known  about  the  life-history  of  this  insect,  and 
yet  it  is  one  of  the  most  widely  distributed  and  injurious 
insects  attacking  the  elm.  It  is  a  small,  soft-scale  insect  of 
a  whitish  color  (/)  that  attacks  both  the  American  and 
European  species  of  the  elm.  It  is  found  on  the  under  side 
of  the  branches,  and  when  crushed  leaves  a  stain  on  the 
fingers  or  clothing  much  like  that  of  iron-rust.  It  injures 
the  trees  by  sucking  the  juices  of  the  young  shoots  and 
small  branches.  In  many  sections  in  Massachusetts  they 
were  so  abundant  during  the  season  of  1895  that  the  leaves 
and  bark  of  almost  every  tree  were  badly  covered  with  a 
black  substance  resulting  from  the  dust  of  the  atmosphere 


330 


Landscape  Gardening 


adhering  to  the   sticky  exudations  made  by  the  insects 
deposited  upon  them,  and  from  a  black  fungous  growth 


similar  to  that  found  in  the  exudations  of  the  pear-tree 

Psylla  in  our  pear  orchards.     The  leaves  were  also  of  a 

sickly  yellow  color  and  the  trees  made  a  very  small  growth. 

Remedy. — It  has  been  found  to  be  destroyed  by  the  kero- 


Insects  and  Fungi  Attacking  Trees,  Etc.    331 

sene  emulsion,  applied  thoroughly  at  the  time  when  the 
young  are  being  produced  and  moving  from  near  the  parent 
scale  to  other  parts  of  the  tree  for  permanent  location,  and 
again  from  five  to  ten  days  later.  By  close  attention  about 
June  ist  the  best  time  can  be  easily  determined.  The  lime 
sulphur  solution  used  at  the  rate  of  i  gallon  to  50  of  water 
will  probably  also  destroy  it. 

Maple-borer  (Plagionotus  speciosus),  Fig.  179. — In  most 
sections  where  the  sugar-maple  thrives,  this  insect  is  more 
or  less  injurious,  though  it  is  said  to  sometimes  attack 


FIG.  179. — Maple-borer. 
(Saunders:   sth  Report  U.  S.  Ent.  Com.,  p.  375,  Fig.  137.) 

other  species.  It  is  a  very  dangerous  insect  enemy,  because 
its  work  is  difficult  to  detect  until  serious  harm  has  been  done. 
The  perfect  insect  is  a  beetle  nearly  an  inch  long,  the  head 
is  yellow,  the  thorax  black,  with  transverse  yellowish  spots, 
and  the  wing-covers  are  yellow,  and  black.  The  beetles 
appear  in  July  and  August,  and  lay  their  eggs  on  the  bark 
during  the  latter  part  of  the  last-named  month.  The  eggs 
soon  hatch  and  the  larvae  or  young  work  a  short  distance 
under  the  surface  of  the  bark,  the  first  season  throwing  out 
chips  and  droppings  from  their  holes.  If  not  molested, 
the  following  season  they  go  on  feeding  and  working  deeper 
through  the  bark  and  sapwood,  making  a  tortuous  burrow 


332  Landscape  Gardening 

not  far  from  the  surface,  often  nearly  J  of  an  inch  in  diameter 
and  sometimes  girdling  the  tree.  As  many  as  twenty  have 
been  found  in  a  single  tree. 

Remedy. — The  only  effectual  remedy  is  to  dig  the  borers 
out  before  they  have  done  much  harm,  i.e.,  the  first  fall  or 
following  spring  after  the  eggs  are  laid.  This  may  be  very 
easily  done  with  little  or  no  injury  to  the  tree.  The  bark 
should  be  carefully  scraped  and  after  a  few  days  the  surface 
carefully  examined,  when  the  exuded  dust  or  chips  will 
enable  one  to  quickly  detect  the  location  of  the  borer.  If 
the  insects  have  already  done  serious  harm  to  the  tree,  all 
holes  or  channels  made  by  them  should  be  filled  up  with 
putty,  grafting-wax,  or  a  thick  paint.  Possibly  the  paint- 
ing of  the  trunk  with  lime  or  Portland-cement  wash  con- 
taining Paris  green  or  arsenate  of  lead  at  the  rate  of  4  ounces 
to  the  gallon  may  prove  effectual  in  destroying  many  of 
the  larvae  as  they  work  their  way  into  the  tree. 

Canker-worms  (Anisopteryx  pometaria  and  Palceacrita 
vernata),  Figs.  180  and  181. — These  insects  extend  over  a 
wide  area  of  the  country,  and  are  very  injurious  to  the  elm, 
apple,  and  some  other  trees.  The  male  (a)  insect  is  a  grayish 
moth  of  about  J  inch  stretch  of  wings  and  flies  in  the  night, 
while  the  female  (b)  has  no  wings.  The  female  crawls  up  the 
tree  and  lays  its  eggs  in  clusters  on  the  branches  during  the 
night  at  any  time  from  October  i5th  to  April  i$th  when  the 
ground  is  not  frozen  and  in  warm,  moist  nights.  The  eggs 
hatch  out  about  the  time  the  buds  unfold,  and  unless 
destroyed  the  larvae  soon  eat  all  of  the  leaves  but  the  skele- 
ton and  midrib,  giving  the  trees  the  appearance  as  of  a  fire 
having  burned  off  the  foliage.  For  the  past  ten  years  this 
pest  has  done  very  little  injury,  but  has  again  made  its 
appearance  and  many  cases  of  large  injury  have  been  re- 
ported the  past  season. 

Remedy. — The  remedy  so  generally  used  of  putting  bands 


Insects  and  Fungi  Attacking  Trees,  Etc.    333 

of  tar  or  printer's  ink,  or  of  tin  or  other  kind  of  troughs 
with  oil  in  them,  around  the  trees  to  prevent  the  female 
insects  from  reaching  the  branches  is  effectual  provided 
the  band  is  kept  covered  with  soft  ink,  tar  or  tanglefoot,  or 
the  trough  is  well  filled  with  oil  when  the  insects  are  moving, 


FIG.  1 80. — Canker-worm. 
(Riley:    Circular  No.  9,  2d  Series,  Dept.  Agr.,  Fig.  i.) 

i.e.,  at  any  time  when  there  is  no  frost  in  the  ground,  on 
warm  nights  from  November  i5th  to  April  i5th.  The  more 
satisfactory  remedy,  except  for  very  tall  trees,  however,  is 
to  give  the  insects  no  attention  until  the  eggs  begin  to  hatch 
out,  and  then  to  destroy  the  larvae  by  spraying  with  Paris 


FIG.  181. — Canker-worm. 
(Riley:   Circular  No.  9,  26.  Series,  Dept.  Agr.,  Fig.  3.) 

green  or  arsenate  of  lead  used  as  for  the  elm-beetle,  making 
two  applications,  one  when  the  first  eggs  hatch  and  then  again 
in  from  five  to  eight  days,  according  to  the  weather,  or  when 
all  of  the  eggs  are  hatched  out.  Success  in  this  work  depends 
upon  how  much  arsenate  is  used  and  how  thoroughly  the 
foliage  is  covered  with  it.  For  the  amount  of  arsenate  to  use 


334 


Landscape  Gardening 


and  method  of  application  see  "Treatment  of  the  Elm- 
beetle,"  pages  328  and  329. 

Borers. — The  maple-borer,  Fig.   179,  has  already  been 


a 


FIG.  182. — Round-headed  Apple-borer. 

(Chittenden:    Circular  No.  32,  2d  Series,  Dept.  Agr.,  Fig.  I.) 


FIG.  183. — Flat-headed  Apple- worm. 
(Chittenden:   Circular  No.  32,  2d  Series,  Dept.  Agr.,  Fig.  3.) 

described,  but  there  are  many  ornamental  trees  besides  the 
maple  that  are  injured  by  borers.  The  thorns,  flowering 
apple,  mountain  ash,  amalanchier  (shad  bush)  and  some  other 


Insects  and  Fungi  Attacking  Trees,  Etc.    335 

trees  are  injured  by  the  ROUND-HEADED  APPLE-BORER 
(Saperda  Candida),  Fig.  182,  and  the  FLAT-HEADED  BORER 
(Chrysobothris  Jemorata),  Fig.  183.  The  flowering  peach, 
plums,  and  cherries  are  injured  by  the  PEACH-BORER  (San- 
nina  exitiosa),  Fig.  184.  Willows,  lindens,  poplars,  locusts, 
and  many  other  trees  are  also  injured  by  borers.  These 
are  to  be  destroyed  in  the  same  manner  as  the  maple-borers, 
i.e.,  by  digging  them  out,  carefully  examining  all  trees  twice 
each  season — in  June  and  August. 


FIG.  184. — Peach-borer. 
(Marlott:   Circular  No.  17,  2d  Series,  Dept.  Agr.(  Fig.  i.) 

Rose-bug  or  -chafer  (Macrodactylus  subspinosus),  Fig. 
185. — This  insect  needs  no  description,  and  no  one  insect 
is  more  injurious  to  so  many  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  and 
none  more  difficult  to  destroy  or  prevent  from  doing  much 
harm. 

Remedy. — Where  arsenate  of  lead  can  be  safely  used,  as 
it  can  be  upon  all  trees  and  plants  producing  flowers  that  are 
not  cut  for  house  or  personal  decoration  or  that  produce  no 
edible  fruit,  this  is  the  most  certain  remedy.  On  roses  it 
can  be  used  until  the  blossoms  are  nearly  open  and  longer 
if  the  flowers  are  allowed  to  remain  on  the  bushes  until  the 
petals  fall.  Pyrethrum  powder  dusted  over  the  bushes  each 
forenoon  and  again  late  in  the  afternoon  in  bright  weather 


336 


Landscape  Gardening 


will  drive  the  beetles  away,  but  they  soon  return  and  the 
remedy  must  be  repeated  each  day  until  they  are  done 
working.  If  this  powder  has  been  kept  over  one  season  or  a 
considerable  time  in  an  open  package,  it  loses  its  strength. 
It  should  always  be  kept  in  a  sealed  can  or  glass-stoppered 
bottle,  and  a  fresh  supply  be  obtained  each  season.  Where 
rose-bushes  are  but  few,  these  insects  can  be  kept  from 


FIG.  185. — Rose-bug  or  -chafer. 
(Riley:    "Insect  Life,"  Vol.  II.,  p.  295,  Fig.  61.) 

doing  serious  injury  by  hand-picking;  the  easiest  way  to 
gather  them  being  to  take  a  broad,  shallow  tin  basin,  put  in 
a  little  water  with  a  tablespoonful  of  kerosene  on  top, 
hold  the  basin  under  the  part  of  the  bush  examined,  and 
touching  the  insects  they  will  fall  into  the  pan  and  be 
destroyed. 

Rose-slug  (Monostegia  rosea),  Fig.  186. — The  rose-slug 
is  the  Iarva3  of  one  of  the  saw-flies.  The  perfect  insect 
comes  out  of  the  ground  the  last  of  May  or  early  in  June. 


Insects  and  Fungi  Attacking  Trees,  Etc.    337 

The  eggs  are  laid  under  the  epidermis  or  outer  covering  of 
the  leaf,  and  the  larvae  appear  in  about  two  weeks,  feeding 
upon  the  soft  green  parts  of  the  leaf  and  leaving  nothing 
but  the  midrib,  veins,  and  epidermis  on  one  surface.  It  is  of 
a  greenish  color,  nearly  transparent,  the  head  much  larger 
than  the  posterior  part  of  the  body.  It  feeds  rapidly  and 
must  be  attended  to  soon  after  the  eggs  hatch. 

Remedy. — Dusting  or  spraying  with  hellebore  or  pyre- 
thrum  powder  is  a  certain  remedy.  If  the  dry  powder  is 
used,  it  must  be  applied  when  the  foliage  is  wet  with  rain 


FIG.  186. — Rose-slug. 

(Riley:    "Insect  Life,"  Vol.  V.,  p.  274.  Fig.  37-) 

or  dew.  When  used  in  water,  i  tablespoonful  to  a  common 
2-gallon  pail  of  water  is  about  the  right  quantity.  It 
is  most  effective  if  applied  just  before  dark  in  the  after- 
noon. Also  use  arsenate  of  lead  or  Paris  green. 

Rose-leaf  Hopper  (Typhlocyba  rosed}. — This  insect  is 
small,  almost  white  in  color,  and  flies  or  jumps  about  when- 
ever the  trees  or  bushes  are  suddenly  jarred.  It  feeds  upon 
the  green  coloring-matter  of  the  leaf,  sucking  out  the  juices, 
making  very  numerous  small  white  spots  until  the  leaf 
becomes  very  light  green  or  almost  white.  This  is  the  most 
serious  rose  insect  and  causes  the  dead  brown  leaves  seen 
everywhere  in  the  late  summer.  It  is  especially  injurious 


338  Landscape  Gardening 

to  the  rose,  grape-vine,  etc.,  though  it  attacks  some  other 
shrubs  and  trees. 

Remedy. — The  remedy  is  thorough  spraying  with  kero- 
sene emulsion,  or  by  the  use  of  pyrethrum  applied  just  at 
night  it  may  be  kept  under  control. 

Red  Spider  (Tetranicus  telarius). — This  insect  is  so 
minute  as  to  be  difficult  to  detect  with  the  naked  eye, 
except  by  the  closest  inspection,  until  it  has  done  con- 
siderable mischief,  when  its  work  is  shown  in  the  light 
green  or  grayish  color  of  the  leaves  attacked.  It  works 
only  in  very  dry  and  hot  weather,  when  it  increases  very 
rapidly  and  attacks  a  great  many  kinds  of  trees  and 
shrubs. 

Remedy. — As  this  insect  cannot  exist  in  a  moist,  cool 
atmosphere,  the  spraying  of  the  trees  with  cold  water 
applied  with  considerable  force  is  a  certain  remedy,  a  heavy 
thunder-shower  often  completely  checking  their  work. 
Dusting  the  foliage  with  flowers  of  sulphur  when  the  leaves 
are  wet  will  also  have  a  beneficial  effect. 

Aphides  (Aphis  sp.). — There  is  hardly  a  species  of  tree 
or  shrub  that  is  not  more  or  less  affected  by  aphides  (or 
plant-lice  so  called).  One  season  they  are  abundant  and  do 
much  harm,  and  another  very  few  and  do  little  injury. 
These  insects  increase  with  astonishing  rapidity;  a  single 
pair,  it  is  said,  may  be  responsible  under  favorable  conditions 
of  food  and  temperature  for  millions  of  progeny  in  a  single 
season.  They  injure  plant-tissues  by  sucking  the  juices 
of  the  tender  parts,  and  when  numerous  all  of  the  terminal 
shoots  are  stopped  in  growth  and  the  tree  or  plant  has  a 
stunted,  sickly  appearance.  When  the  leaves  alone  are 
attacked,  they  curl  and  roll  up,  and  are  soon  covered  with 
black  substances  collected  from  the  dust  of  the  atmosphere 
coming  in  contact  with  the  sticky  surface  caused  by  the 
exudations  of  the  aphides. 


Insects  and  Fungi  Attacking  Trees,  Etc.    339 

Remedy. — The  application  of  kerosene  emulsion  with 
force  enough  to  drive  it  under  the  curled  leaf  is  the  most 
satisfactory  remedy.  Strong  tobacco  water  is  also  effectual 
in  its  destruction,  On  small  trees  and  shrubs,  where  the 


FIG.  187.— Oyster-shell  Scale. 
(Howard:    "Year  Book,"  Dept.  Agr.,  1894,  P-  257,  Fig.  26.) 


branches  can  be  bent  down,  dipping  the  ends  into  the 
emulsion  would  be  most  satisfactory,  or  the  strong  solution 
may  be  applied  with  a  soft  paint-brush.  If  only  a  few  of  the 
leaves  are  curled  up  these  may  be  picked  off  and  burned  or 
otherwise  destroyed  before  spraying. 


340  Landscape  Gardening 

Scale  Insects. — These  are  among  the  most  destructive 
of  the  sucking  insects,  and  several  species  are  very  abundant. 
Among  those  most  to  be  feared  are  the  OYSTER-SHELL  SCALE 
Fig.  187,  and  the  SAN  JOSE  SCALE.  The  former  (Mytelaspis 
pomorum),  is  very  common  on  ash,  willows,  lilacs,  hawthorn, 
etc.,  and  on  the  flowering  apples.  In  shape  it  resembles  the 
oyster-shell,  is  of  a  brown  color,  about  J  of  an  inch  long  by 
Y&  wide,  and  injures  the  tree  by  sucking  the  juices  from  the 
growing  shoots  and  branches.  At  c  it  is  shown  natural  size. 
The  eggs  hatch  out  from  under  the  parent  shell  the  last  of 
June  or  early  July,  and  the  young  swarm  out  and  soon  fix 
themselves  on  other  branches,  feeding  at  this  point  until 
they  reach  full  size,  when  they  die,  leaving  the  young  or  eggs 
protected  by  their  dead  bodies. 

Remedy. — This  pest  may  be  destroyed  by  painting  during 
the  winter  with  a  very  light  coat  of  linseed-oil,  by  washing 
with  strong  caustic  potash,  \  pound  to  4  quarts  water,  by 
strong  whale-oil  soap,  2  pounds  to  i  gallon  of  water,  applied 
while  the  trees  are  dormant,  or  by  kerosene  emulsion  used 
just  after  the  young  insects  have  left  the  cover  of  the  parent 
scale  and  have  a  very  delicate  covering.  Soluble  oil  and 
lime-sulphur  solution  as  used  for  the  San  Jose  scale  is  a 
remedy  for  this  pest. 

The  San  Jose  Scale  (Aspidiotus  perniciosus),  so  destruc- 
tive to  all  kinds  of  fruit  and  many  ornamental  trees  in 
California  and  the  South,  has  been  largely  distributed 
about  the  country,  having  been  found  in  every  State  in 
the  Union,  and  has  proved  a  most  destructive  pest.  The 
perfect  insect  is  circular  in  outline,  of  a  gray  color,  vary- 
ing from  -3*5-  to  TQ  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  generally 
with  a  black  spot  in  the  centre.  It  is  so  small  as  to  escape 
notice  until  it  has  increased  to  great  numbers,  and  it  prop- 
agates very  rapidly.  It  injures  plant-growth  in  the  same 
way  as  the  last  by  sucking  the  juices  of  the  tender  parts. 


Insects  and  Fungi  Attacking  Trees,  Etc.    341 

In  its  earliest  stage  of  growth  it  is  yellow  and  crawls  about 
until  it  finds  a  good  place  to  feed,  when  it  becomes  fixed  and 
does  not  move  away  during  the  remainder  of  its  life.  A  single 
pair  may  produce  millions  of  young.  It  attacks  all  of  our 
fruit  trees,  currant  bushes,  gooseberry  bushes,  and  many 
ornamental  trees  and  shrubs.  There  are  many  species  of 
scale  insects  so  closely  resembling  this  pest  that  when  insects 
of  this  kind  are  found  they  should  be  sent  to  the  experi- 
ment station  entomologists  for  identification  and  suggestions 
as  to  remedies. 

Remedy. — This  pest  has  been  destroyed  in  some  cases  by 
the  same,  but  more  concentrated,  remedies  as  used  for  the 
oyster-shell  scale.  The  applications  should  be  made  more 
thoroughly  with  more  frequent  use  of  the  kerosene  emul- 
sion during  the  summer.  If  promptly  attacked  when  first 
discovered  it  may  be  kept  under  control  at  small  expense. 
The  most  effectual  remedy  is  the  lime-sulphur  solution, 
applied  in  December  or  March,  or  just  before  the  buds  have 
started  in  the  spring.  The  formulas  and  full  directions 
for  these  applications  may  be  found  in  the  reports  of  the 
experiment  stations,  or  upon  application  to  the  entomol- 
ogists of  these  institutions. 

Maple  Woolly  Scale  (Pseudococcus  aceris),  Fig.  188. 
— This  comparatively  new  insect  pest  has  appeared  in 
several  sections  of  the  country,  but  thus  far  has  been  found 
only  on  the  soft  maples.  In  Europe  it  is  reported  to  be 
injurious  to  the  linden,  elm,  chestnut,  etc.  (see  "  Bulletin 
N.  H.  Ex.  Station,  No.  36  "),  and  should  it  increase  in 
this  country  will  prove  a  very  troublesome  pest.  It  is  some- 
what of  the  nature  of  the  scale  and  aphis,  sucking  the 
juices  of  the  plant  upon  which  it  feeds;  its  body  and  the 
masses  of  eggs  which  it  lays  being  covered  with  a  white 
cottony  or  woolly  substance,  from  which  it  takes  its  name. 

Remedy. — While  no  experiments  have  been  made,  or  at 


342 


Landscape  Gardening 


least  reported,  to  prove  the  value  of  the  various  common 
insecticides  in  destroying  this  pest,  from  the  nature  of  the 


FIG.  1 88.— Maple-scale. 
(Howard:   Circular,  No.  3,  Dept.  Agr.,  2d  Series,  Fig.  i.) 

insect  it  seems  probable  that  the  kerosene  emulsion  and 
soluble  oil  will  be  effectual  if  applied  with  considerable 
force,  so  as  to  throw  it  in  under  the  mass  of  insects  and  eggs 


Insects  and  Fungi  Attacking  Trees,  Etc.    343 

which  are  so  nicely  protected  by  the  woolly  cover  that  is  of 
a  somewhat  oily  nature,  thus  preventing  watery  liquids 
from  adhering  to  the  bodies  of  the  insects  or  penetrating 
the  masses  of  eggs. 

The  Browntail  Moth  (Euproctis  chrysorrhea) . — A  moth 
very  similar  in  size  to  the  Gypsy  moth,  but  nearly  white  and 
more  destructive  in  that  it  feeds  for  about  a  month  in  the 
fall  and  then  again  in  the  spring  and  early  summer,  and  that 
the  female  moth  can  fly  a^great  distance.  The  egg  clusters, 
which  are  laid  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  on  the  extreme 
ends  of  the  branches  in  August  and  September,  are  covered 
with  brown  hairs  much  like  those  of  the  Gypsy  moth.  The 
eggs  soon  hatch  and  the  larvae  feed  for  several  weeks,  when 
they  draw  the  edges  of  the  leaves  together,  making  a  water- 
proof nest  in  which  they  pass  the  winter,  and  from  which  they 
come  out  in  early  May  and  feed  on  the  young  leaves  of  the 
oak,  apple,  wild  cherry  and  a  few  other  trees.  It  is  destroyed 
by  cutting  and  burning  its  "  nests  "  during  the  winter,  and  by 
spraying  with  arsenate  of  lead  when  the  leaves  begin  to  show 
in  the  spring,  or  in  the  fall  about  the  time  the  eggs  begin  to 
hatch. 

The  Gypsy  Moth  (Porthetria  dispar). — This  pest  is 
becoming  so  widely  distributed  over  New  England  and  a 
few  other  sections  that,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the 
female  moth  can  scarcely  fly,  it  is  one  of  our  most  destruc- 
tive insect  pests.  It  feeds  upon  most  of  our  trees  and 
shrubs,  on  the  lawn,  in  the  garden  and  in  the  forests.  The 
work,  which  is  almost  pure  white  in  color,  lays  its  eggs  in 
the  early  fall  in  brown,  hair-covered  clusters  of  from  200 
to  400  in  crevices  of  the  bark,  on  the  under  side  of  branches, 
in  stone  walls,  rail  fences,  sides  of  buildings  or  other  secluded 
places.  These  eggs  hatch  out  in  early  summer,  the  larvae 
feed  voraciously  for  about  a  month,  when  they  go  into  the 
chrysalis  state  for  about  another  month  and  then  come 


344  Landscape  Gardening 

out  perfect  insects  to  lay  another  brood  of  eggs.  They  are 
destroyed  by  saturating  the  egg  masses  with  creosote  at  any 
time  during  the  fall  and  winter  and  by  spraying  with  arsen- 
ate  of  lead  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  feed  in  the  spring  upon 
the  young  leaves. 

The  Leopard  Moth  (Zeuzera  pyrina). — Among  the  more 
recent  insects  injurious  to  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs  is 
the  leopard  moth.  This  pest  was  first  found  by  Mr.  R.  W. 
Curtis,  of  the  Arnold  Arboretum,  in  1909.  Soon  after  this 
date  it  was  found  upon  the  elms  and  other  trees  in  the 
grounds  of  Harvard  College. 

It  feeds  upon  nearly  every  ornamental  tree  and  shrub 
except  the  evergreens.  Its  eggs  are  laid  singly  or  in  small 
groups  under  the  bark  and  in  crevices  of  the  trunks  and 
main  branches. 

The  young  larvae  are  very  small,  but  at  maturity  are  nearly 
2  inches  long.  They  feed  upon  the  smaller  branches,  causing 
many  of  them  to  break  off.  The  best  remedies  are  spraying 
the  trunks  and  main  branches  with  a  strong  mixture  of 
arsenate  of  lead  at  the  time  the  eggs  hatch,  and  digging  out 
the  larvae  while  they  are  small.  If  discovered  upon  one's 
trees  aid  should  be  called  from  the  experiment  stations  or 
the  Entomological  Bureau  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture. 

There  are  a  great  many  other  less  injurious  insects  that 
often  appear  in  small  numbers  on  single  trees  or  within 
limited  localities,  sometimes  increasing  rapidly  for  a  time 
and  then  disappearing;  but  the  limits  of  this  volume  will 
not  allow  of  further  space  for  their  description.  We  may 
briefly  say  that  in  a  general  way  the  remedies  already 
described  may  be  applied  to  all  insect  pests,  i.e.,  all  chew- 
ing insects  to  be  destroyed  by  the  use  of  arsenate  of  lead 
and  hellebore,  and  all  sucking  insects  by  the  kerosene 
emulsion,  lime-sulphur  and  soluble  oil. 
"  \Whenever  a  new  insect  appears,  if  doing  harm  to  any 


Insects  and  Fungi  Attacking  Trees,  Etc.    345 

crops,  specimens  should  be  sent  to  the  entomologist  of  the 
experiment  station  of  the  State  in  which  it  is  found,  and 
the  instruction  given  for  its  destruction  be  followed.  These 
stations  are  established  for  the  purpose  of  aiding  the  people 
to  overcome  all  difficulties  in  the  growth  of  ornamental 
or  useful  crops,  and  every  citizen  should  feel  free  to  ask  for 
instruction  and  aid  whenever  needed. 

Fungi  Injurious  to  Ornamental  Trees,  Shrubs,  etc. 

The  fungous  growths  that  are  injurious  to  growing  plants 
belong  to  the  group  of  plants  known  as  parasitic  fungi  and 
take  their  food  from  their  host  plant,  i.e.,  the  plant  upon 
which  they  grow,  but  organize  no  plant-food  for  them- 
selves, and  often  they  feed  and  grow  with  such  rapidity  as 
in  a  short  time  to  destroy  the  host  plant  or  seriously  weaken 
it.  Most  of  these  parasites  propagate  from  very  minute 
seed-like  bodies  already  described.  They  grow  under 
favorable  conditions  with  the  most  incredible  rapidity, 
as  may  be  illustrated  by  the  short  time  in  which  the  leaves 
of  a  pear  or  poplar  tree  are  destroyed  by  the  pear-blight  or 
the  poplar-rust.  It  often  takes  but  a  few  days  of  warm, 
moist  weather  to  cause  the  destruction  of  all  of  the  leaves 
of  a  tree,  when  perhaps  the  growth  of  but  a  few  spores  only 
began  the  work  of  destruction.  It  is  during  hot,  moist 
weather  that  they  grow  most  rapidly,  and  while  we  may 
sometimes  escape  if  we  do  not  use  fungicides,  the  wise 
gardener  will  be  prepared  and  make  application  of  the 
fungicides  described  on  previous  pages. 

Among  the  many  fungi  injurious  to  ornamental  trees, 
shrubs,  etc.,  the  following  are  among  the  most  destructive: 

Rusts. — This  term  has  been  applied  in  more  or  less  of 
an  arbitrary  manner  to  a  large  group  of  fungi  that  produce 
masses  of  spores  on  the  surface  of  the  leaves  or  stalks,  gen- 
erally yellowish  or  brownish  in  color,  but  when  of  a  white 


346  Landscape  Gardening 

color  they  are  often  called  the  "  white  rusts  "  or  mildews. 
The  spores  germinate  on  the  surface  of  the  leaves,  their 
roots  or  feeding-parts  (called  mycelia)  penetrate  the  leaf 
through  the  stomata  or  breathing-pores,  and  after  feeding 
and  developing  for  greater  or  less  time,  according  to  the 
species  or  the  condition  of  the  weather,  fruit  (spores)  is 
produced  on  stalks  or  in  masses  on  the  surface  of  the  leaf, 
and  scattered  by  the  slightest  breath  of  air.  Of  the  true 
rusts  I  shall  mention  only  a  few  of  the  most  important,  with 
the  remedies  most  effective,  but  many  others  of  a  similar 
character  may  be  destroyed  or  prevented  from  doing  harm 
in  the  same  manner. 

POPLAR-RUST'  (Melanosporium  populina),  ROSE-RUST 
(Phragmidium  mucronatum) ,  HOLLYHOCK-RUST  (Puccinia 
malvacearum) ,  LINDEN-RUST  (Cercospora  microsora). — 
The  growth  of  all  of  these  pests  takes  place  under  about  the 
same  conditions,  i.e.,  a  weakened  growth  of  the  tree  or  plant 
from  any  cause,  and  in  close,  moist,  hot  weather.  Strong- 
growing,  healthy  plants  are  less  liable  to  attack  than  those 
of  a  weak  growth,  though  a  too  vigorous  and  soft  growth 
may  be  produced  by  too  much  enrichment  of  the  soil,  and 
is  as  much  to  be  avoided  as  the  other  extreme. 

Remedy. — If  copper  in  even  minute  quantities  or  lime- 
sulphur  solution  is  on  the  leaves  and  branches  so  that  it  will 
be  distributed  over  the  surface  whenever  it  rains  or  is  wet 
with  dew,  the  spores  cannot  germinate,  and  the  remedy  to 
apply  is  to  spray  the  branches  thoroughly  with  Bordeaux 
mixture  4,  5,  50,  before  the  leaves  unfold,  when  all  of 
the  earlier  spores  upon  them  will  be  destroyed  The  great 
advantage  of  the  Bordeaux  mixture  is  that  it  holds  the 
copper  firmly  to  the  leaves  and  with  every  rain  or 
heavy  dew  minute  quantities  are  dissolved  and  the  spores 
are  prevented  from  germinating.  The  lime  sulphur  used  for 
the  destruction  of  scale  insects  is  also  a  fungicide,  but  can  be 


Insects  and  Fungi  Attacking  Trees,  Etc.    347 

used  only  in  a  dilute  form,  \  to  i  gallon  of  the  solution  to 
50  gallons  of  water,  according  to  the  kind  of  trees  to  be 
sprayed.  To  the  above  solutions  may  be  added  arsenate 
of  lead  4  to  6  Ibs.  to  50  gallons  of  the  mixture  for  the 
destruction  of  insect  pests. 

Leaf-blights. — The  leaf-blights  are  unlike  the  rusts  in 
that  they  attack  and  destroy  small  portions  of  the  leaves, 
and  when  these  spots  or  places  of  attack  become  numerous 
the  whole  leaf  is  destroyed  and  it  soon  falls  off.  Among 
the  most  destructive  of  the  leaf-blights  are  the  CATALPA- 
LEAF  SPOT  (Phyllosticta  catalpGe),  CHERRY-  AND  PLUM- 
LEAF  BLIGHT  (Cylindrosporium  Padi\  MAPLE-LEAF  SPOT 
(Phyllosticta  acericolor),  SYCAMORE-LEAF  BLIGHT  (Glceo- 
sporium  nervisequum) ,  ROSE-LEAF  SPOT  (Actinonema  rosa), 
etc. 

Remedy. — As  with  the  rusts,  the  copper  must  be  on  the 
plants  to  destroy  the  spores  when  they  come  in  contact  with 
it,  but  when  the  parasite  has  become  fully  established  nothing 
will  destroy  it  that  will  not  destroy  the  host  plant.  The 
treatment  is  the  same  as  for  the  rusts. 

Mildews  or  White  Rusts. — As  the  name  indicates, 
these  are  parasites  which  produce  white  spores  and  more  or 
less  white  patches  on  the  leaf  or  other  parts.  As  with  the 
two  previously  named  groups,  they  grow  under  conditions 
of  moisture  and  hot,  moist  weather,  and  as  a  rule  they  appear 
later  in  the  season. 

Among  the  most  destructive  of  this  group  are  the  ROSE- 
MILDEW  (Spharotheca  pannosa),  POWDERY  MILDEW  OF 
THE  HAWTHORN,  PLUM,  AND  CHERRY  (Podosphcera  oxy- 
cantha),  DOWNY  MILDEW  OF  THE  WILLOW  (Uncinula 
solids),  DOWNY  MILDEW  OF  THE  LILAC  (Micros  pheer  a 
Alni  D.  C.),  etc. 

Remedy. — Coming  on  later  in  the  season  than  the  brown 
rusts,  two  or  three  applications  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture 


348  Landscape  Gardening 

will  be  effectual,  but  no  application  need  be  made  generally 
until  the  middle  or  last  of  July.  The  lime  sulphur  is  also 
a  good  remedy,  i  to  50. 

Flowers  of  sulphur  if  dusted  over  trees  and  shrubs  will 
often  reduce  the  mildews,  but  not  often  wholly  destroy 
them. 

As  with  new  insects,  fungi  new  to  any  individual  that 
may  appear  to  be  doing  serious  harm  may  be  sent  to  the 
experiment  stations  for  identification  or  for  suggestions  as 
to  the  best  remedies. 


CHAPTER  XVI 
THE  HOME  FRUIT-GARDEN 

IN  Chapter  II  some  of  the  advantages  of  the  fruit-  and 
vegetable-garden  to  the  owner  of  a  home  were  briefly  men- 
tioned, and  as  the  aim  of  this  book  is  to  give  practical  in- 
formation along  all  lines  of  outdoor  home  ornamentation 
and  comfort,  a  chapter  on  fruits  will  not  be  out  of  place, 
for  the  fruit-garden  may  be  made  to  serve  also  as  an  impor- 
tant feature  of  the  home  ornamentation.  What  can  be 
more  beautiful  than  fruit  trees  when  in  bloom,  or  again 
when  laden  with  highly  colored  fruit?  And  they  may  be 
trained  to  as  perfect  and  beautiful  forms  as  many  of  the 
trees  used  only  for  ornament. 

The  shade  afforded  by  a  broad-spreading  apple-tree  is 
quite  as  dense  and  satisfactory  as  that  from  many  other 
species.  The  fruit  that  is  obtained  from  the  home  garden 
is  so  much  superior  to  that  obtainable  in  the  markets  that 
it  is  worth  a  great  effort  and  considerable  annoyance  to  have 
on  one's  table  an  abundance  of  such  choice,  fresh,  ripe  fruit. 

Size  of  the  Fruit-garden 

The  amount  of  land  to  be  devoted  to  the  fruit>garden 
must  depend  very  much  upon  size  of  the  lot,  the  number 
and  locality  of  the  buildings,  and  the  amount  of  other 
ornamentation  attempted.  For  the  supply  of  a  large 
family  with  a  liberal  amount  of  all  the  fruits  in  their  season 
will  be  required  a  garden  of  considerable  area,  though  it  is 
surprising  what  a  quantity  can  be  grown  on  a  small  area 

349 


350 


Landscape  Gardening 


FIG.  189. — The  Home  Fruit-garden. 


The  Home  Fruit-garden  351 

when  skilfully  managed.  An  estimate  of  what  will  be  the 
average  yield  of  the  different  kinds  of  fruits  under  the  best 
conditions  is  as  follows: 

Apples,  per  tree,  30-40  ft.  apart,  at  10  yrs.  from  planting,  3  bbls. 
Pears,      "      "    20        "      "       "  10  "      "  "     -  3  bu. 

"       "     8  "      "  "       i  to  3  bu. 

bu.  in  N. 
«      «       a 


5-10 


{\  bu.  in  N. 
E.,  1-2  bu. 
so.  of  N.  Y. 


Cherries  "      "    20        "      "       "     8  "      "  "        i  bu. 

Quinces/'      "     12        "      "       "     8  "      k<  "        i  bu. 

Grapes,  per  vine,  8  by  10  ft.  apart,  at  3  yrs.  from  plant- 
ing     5  Ibs. 

Raspberries  and  blackberries  in  rows  7  ft.  apart, 

at  3  years  from  planting i  bu.  per  sq.  rod. 

Currants  and  gooseberries,  3  by  6  ft.  apart,  at  4 
years  from  planting, i    bu.  per  sq.  rod. 

Strawberries  in  rows  4  ft.  apart,  at  i  year  from 
planting i  to  3  bu.per  sq.rd. 

Location 

In  locating  the  fruit-garden  that  part  of  the  lot  with 
a  suitable  soil  should,  if  possible,  be  selected,  and  be  located 
in  a  rather  secluded  part,  as  more  or  less  of  the  material  used 
and  some  of  the  crops  grown  are  not  of  a  distinctly  orna- 
mental character  in  all  stages  of  growth;  besides,  some  seclu- 
sion is  desirable  when  carrying  on  the  work  of  planting, 
cultivating,  fertilizing,  or  even  harvesting  the  products. 
Fig.  189  illustrates  the  fruit-garden  of  about  i  acre  located 
in  the  southwest  corner  of  the  lot. 

In  this  garden  the  large  and  small  fruits  may  be  grown 
more  or  less  grouped  together,  as  shown  in  the  above  figure, 
though  for  the  best  results  each  kind  should  be  planted 
entirely  distinct  from  the  others.  The  arrangements  in  rows 
as  shown  in  the  figure  is  made  that  the  work  of  cultivating 
may  be  largely  done  by  the  horse-plough  and  cultivator  and 
wheel  hand  cultivator. 


352  Landscape  Gardening 


The  Soil 

Much  of  the  success  of  the  work  in  the  fruit-garden  will 
depend  upon  the  character  of  the  soil.  That  which  is  best 
for  the  greater  variety  of  fruits  is  a  deep  sandy  loam  not 
easily  affected  by  drouth.  Should  the  soil  in  the  different 
parts  of  the  garden  vary,  the  apples,  pears,  quinces,  and 
red  raspberries,  currants,  and  gooseberries  should  be  planted 
on  that  which  is  the  most  moist;  while  the  peach,  cherry, 
grape,  plum,  and  blackberry  will  succeed  in  lighter  soil. 
Any  kind  of  soil,  however,  may  be  improved  somewhat  in 
character  at  a  little  expense.  Thus  a  light  soil  may  be 
made  more  retentive  of  moisture  by  ploughing  under  stable 
manure,  leaf-mould,  peat,  or  other  organic  matter,  while  the 
moisture  in  all  kinds  of  soil  may  be  conserved  and  plant  food 
developed  by  deep  ploughing  in  the  spring  and  frequent 
stirring  of  the  surface-soil  during  the  summer. 

Very  heavy  soils  may  be  improved  by  underdraining,  by 
deep  ploughing,  by  the  application  of  sand,  or  by  ploughing 
the  land  into  beds  with  rounded  surfaces  so  that  the 
surface-water  will  run  off  quickly. 

The  slope  of  the  land  also  affects  some  crops  very 
materially:  thus  a  southern,  southeast,  or  southwest  slope  is 
most  favorable  to  the  growth  and  maturity  of  the  grape  and 
to  the  early  ripening  of  the  other  fruits,  while  the  peach, 
quince,  and  raspberry  succeed  better  when  planted  on  a 
northern  exposure. 

A  close  sheltered  place  is  not  desirable  if  peaches,  cherries, 
plums,  and  grapes  are  to  be  grown,  as  fungous  diseases  are 
more  liable  to  attack  them  under  such  conditions  than  if 
planted  upon  high  land.  The  grape  is  less  subject  to  late 
frosts  in  the  spring  or  early  frosts  in  the  fall,  while  in  low 
land  the  fruit-buds  are  often  destroyed  by  these  frosts. 

It  will  often  be  found  that  the  garden  selected  is  not 


The  Home  Fruit-garden  353 

suited  to  the  growth  of  some  of  the  fruits,  while  it  is  especi- 
ally adapted  to  the  others,  in  which  case  it  will  be  found 
better  economy  to  devote  the  space  to  those  that  do  succeed, 
and  purchase  such  as  cannot  be  grown  economically. 

Tools 

The  tools  required  for  the  cultivation  of  a  small  garden 
are  not  very  numerous,  and  the  best  will  be  found  none  too 
good  and  the  cheapest  in  the  end  if  well  cared  for.  They 
should  be  light  and  strong,  and  after  using  should  always 
be  cleaned  and  put  carefully  away  where  they  will  be  ready 
for  use  at  any  time.  If  the  garden  is  of  considerable  size 
and  all  the  work  is  to  be  done  by  those  on  the  place,  the 
following  list  of  tools  will  be  needed: 

i  good  side-hill  plough  and  i  small  landside  plough. 

i  Planet  Jr.  cultivator  with  its  various  attachments  will 
answer  all  purposes  for  harrow,  cultivator,  and  marker. 

i  one-horse  cart  or  wagon  will  be  needed  unless  the  heavy 
work  is  to  be  hired  done. 

i  seed-drill  with  cultivator  attachment  will  be  found  a 
very  useful  tool. 

Spades,  spading-forks,  manure-forks,  square-pointed 
shovels,  iron  rakes,  wooden  rakes,  hand-roller,  garden  line 
and  hoes,  in  number  according  to  the  amount  of  work  to 
be  done.  A  good  wheelbarrow  or  hand-cart  will  also  be 
found  useful.  See  Fig.  118,  the  author's  weed  killers. 

A  spraying-pump  of  some  sort  must  be  provided  for  the 
application  of  insecticides  and  fungicides.  The  common 
hand  garden-pump  or  the  knapsack  pump  will  be  sufficient 
if  only  a  few  trees  are  to  be  treated,  but  the  barrel-pump 
mounted  on  wheels  will  be  found  much  more  serviceable 
and  economical  in  a  garden  of  considerable  size. 


354  Landscape  Gardening 


Arrangement  of  the  Garden 

It  is  generally  best  to  have  all  the  fruits  or  vegetables  in 
the  home  garden  grouped  compactly  in  the  rear  part  of  the 
grounds,  and  some  distance  from  the  house,  though  this  part 
of  the  grounds  should  be  made  to  blend  with  the  more 
ornamental  features.  Specimen  trees  of  the  large  fruits  may 
be  grouped  by  themselves  or  among  the  ornamental  trees,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  189.  Grape-vines,  Fig.  153,  may  also  serve 
to  ornament  the  buildings,  verandas,  pergolas,  or  trellises 
that  may  screen  the  garden  from  too  full  exposure. 

This  plan  shows  the  ornamental  features  of  about  an 
acre  lot  with  the  fruits  grouped  more  or  less  in  the  rear  of 
the  house.  In  the  garden  proper  are  arranged  5  apple-trees, 
40  ft.  apart,  with  2  pears,  2  plum,  and  3  peaches,  20  ft.  from 
each  of  the  other  trees,  planted  so  that  all  may  have  clean 
cultivation;  while  on  the  west  and  north  border  as  well 
as  in  two  groups  between  the  house  and  barn  others  are 
located,  which  must  be  grown  in  turf.  These  more  or  less 
blend  with  the  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs.  On  the  north- 
east border  of  this  garden  are  planted  grape-vines  to  serve 
as  a  cover  to  the  trellis  that  screens  the  garden  from  the 
house.  Raspberries,  blackberries,  currants,  and  gooseberries 
are  planted  in  rows  in  the  line  of  and  between  the  trees. 
The  strawberry-bed  is  located  on  the  north  side  of  the 
orchard.  An  asparagus-bed  is  also  chosen  on  the  south 
side. 

Turf  Culture 

One  great  advantage  of  close  grouping,  as  has  been 
stated,  is  that  the  soil  about  the  trees  and  plants  may  be 
cheaply  and  thoroughly  cultivated,  thus  preserving  the 
moisture  and  making  it  unnecessary  to  apply  as  much 


The  Home  Fruit-garden  355 

plant-food  as  if  they  were  grown  in  turf.  If,  however,  the 
lawn  is  kept  mown  once  or  twice  each  week  and  a  more 
liberal  supply  of  plant-food  is  applied,  the  growth  of  the 
trees  will  be  found  to  be  satisfactory. 

Should  it  be  found  necessary  to  plant  on  turf  land  where 
a  hay  crop  is  to  be  taken  off,  much  less  growth  must  be 
expected  and  a  much  more  liberal  application  of  plant-food 
be  required  than  where  the  land  is  cultivated,  and  in  times 
of  drouth  a  mulch  of  hay,  straw,  or  other  material,  2  or 
3  inches  in  thickness,  should  be  used  under  the  trees 
as  far  out  as  the  branches  spread  to  prevent  serious  injury. 

Where  to  Obtain  Trees  and  Plants 

As  a  rule,  where  only  a  small  quantity  of  trees  or  plants 
is  desired,  it  is  best  to  buy  of  the  nearest  reliable  nursery- 
man who  has  the  varieties  wanted  growing  on  his  grounds. 
Those  selected  should  be  young  and  vigorous,  and  it  will 
generally  be  better  for  the  purchaser  to  go  to  the  nursery 
during  the  growing  season  and  make  his  selection,  having 
them  marked  for  delivery  when  they  are  wanted,  or  if  inex- 
perienced in  such  matters  the  selection  may  be  left  with 
reliable  nurserymen,  specifying  that  the  stock  shall  be  of 
good  size,  young,  and  vigorous.  Travelling  agents,  unless 
known  to  the  purchaser,  should  not  be  patronized. 

If  the  local  nurseryman  has  not  the  stock  wanted,  a 
specific  order  stating  the  variety,  age,  and  size  of  trees  or 
plants  wanted  sent  in  early  to  any  of  the  many  reliable 
nurserymen  will  be  certain  to  receive  prompt  attention. 
If  the  quantity  ordered  is  not  large,  such  orders  should  be 
sent  by  express,  as  small  packages  sent  by  freight  are  often 
delayed  in  transportation. 


356  Landscape  Gardening 


Preparation  of  the  Land 

If  the  land  is  new,  i.e.,  if  it  has  been  in  turf  for  some 
time  or  if  under  neglect,  and  the  preparation  can  be  begun 
in  the  fall,  deep  ploughing  should  be  done  by  following  the 
common  plough  with  the  trench-  or  subsoil-plough,  whereby 
the  soil  may  be  loosened  from  15  to  20  inches  deep.  This 
will  make  a  light  soil  more  retentive  of  moisture  and  a 
heavy  soil  more  porous  and  furnish  a  deep  and  well- 
pulverized  bed  for  the  roots  to  penetrate. 

Digging  the  Holes  for  Planting 

In  digging  the  holes  for  the  reception  of  the  trees,  where 
the  land  has  been  deeply  worked  as  above,  only  a  space 
large  enough  to  hold  the  roots  fully  spread  out  need  be 
excavated,  throwing  out  the  subsoil,  however,  and  replac- 
ing it  with  good  surface-soil.  On  the  lawn  or  in  grass  land 
holes  considerably  larger  than  the  spread  of  the  roots  should 
be  made  and  the  subsoil  be  dug  up  deeply  or  partly  thrown 
out  if  poor,  and  be  replaced  with  good  soil.  The  turf 
removed  in  digging,  if  any,  may  be  placed  in  the  bottom 
of  the  holes  with  good  results.  Holes  are  now  made  deep 
and  with  soil  well  loosened  by  the  use  of  dynamite,  ^  to  \  of 
a  stick  will  loosen  the  soil  but  not  scatter  it  about.  These 
require  cleaning  out  before  the  tree  is  set,  but  the  soil  is  well 
loosened  and  trees  will  grow  more  rapidly  than  in  holes  that 
are  dug  with  a  spade. 

Preparation  of  the  Trees  for  Planting 

No  matter  how  carefully  trees  may  be  dug  from  the 
nursery,  a  large  per  cent  of  the  fibrous  roots  will  be  destroyed 
and  many  of  the  larger  roots  be  broken,  and  if  the  tree 
is  planted  without  the  removal  of  some  of  its  branches  when 


The  Home  Fruit-garden      .'  357 

it  starts  into  growth  in  the  spring  the  number  of  buds  is 
so  great  that  the  supply  of  moisture  from  the  roots  will  be 
insufficient  to  sustain  a  vigorous  growth,  and  all  may  finally 
fail;  while  if  the  larger  part  of  the  branches  had  been  removed 
the  few  buds  that  remain  would  start  vigorously  and  sufficient 
moisture  be  supplied  to  sustain  continuous  and  rapid  growth 
until  new  roots  and  vigorous  leaf-surface  is  formed,  without 
which  good  growth  cannot  take  place. 

In  pruning  young  fruit-trees  for  transplanting  all  branches 
not  needed  for  the  formation  of  a  symmetrical  head  should 
be  removed,  and  those  remaining  be  shortened  in  more  or 
less,  according  to  the  amount  of  injury  to  the  roots.  Young 
trees  with  few  lateral  branches  are  often  trimmed  up  to  a 
"whip-stock."  This  is  especially  the  practice  with  peach- 
trees.  In  planting  young  trees  the  roots  should  be  spread 
out  as  much  as  possible,  placed  at  the  depth  they  stood  in 
the  nursery,  and  fine  rich  soil  worked  in  closely  about  them 
and  tramped  firmly.  No  chemical  fertilizers  should  be  put 
in  contact  with  roots,  but  an  abundance  of  finely  ground 
bone  may  be  used. 

Planting  Fruit-trees,  Vines,  and  Plants 

The  best  time  and  the  methods  of  planting  have  already 
been  discussed  on  pages  53  to  61,  which  see.  All  trees 
should  have  been  ordered  in  the  fall  or  very  early  in  the 
spring,  and  everything  if  possible  be  in  readiness  for  planting 
when  the  trees  arrive.  Trees  or  plants  never  should  be 
planted  when  the  soil  is  so  full  of  moisture  as  to  be  sticky  or 
compact  into  solid  masses  when  pressed,  but  be  in  condition 
to  crumble  finely  when  turned  over  with  the  spade  or  plough. 
The  subsoil  thrown  out  in  digging  the  holes  should  never 
be  put  close  about  the  roots,  but  after  planting  be  spread 
about  on  the  surface  and  only  good  soil  be  used  about  the 
roots. 


358  Landscape  Gardening 


Forming  the  Head  and  Pruning 

When  trees  are  set  closely  and  where  small  fruits  are 
planted  between  them,  the  head  or  main  branches  must  be 
carried  higher  than  if  only  trees  were  planted  in  order  to 
facilitate  comfortable  working  among  them.  The  main 
branches  in  this  case  must  be  started  about  5  feet  from  the 
ground.  On  the  lawn  and  where  nothing  is  grown  under 
the  trees  the  branches  may  start  at  2  or  3  feet  from  the 
ground  unless  it  is  desired  to  have  them  higher  for  shade  or 
for  obtaining  views  under  the  branches.  If  used  as  a  screen, 
it  is  desirable  to  have  them  branch  from  the  ground  up,  and 
low-headed  trees  are  much  more  easily  cared  for,  the  fruit 
more  easily  gathered,  and  they  will  generally  live  longer. 

The  amount  of  after-pruning  required,  if  properly  formed 
at  planting,  is  very  small  if  the  trees  have  full  exposure  on 
all  sides;  and  if  the  trees  are  examined  several  times  during 
the  growing  season  perfect  form  may  be  produced  with 
only  the  finger  and  thumb  and  a  small  pocket-knife,  and 
this  without  the  loss  of  any  growth  of  wood,  which  would 
be  the  result  if  pruning  is  done  at  the  end  of  the  growing 
season  only. 

Up  to  the  tune  of  fruiting  all  the  pruning  fruit-trees 
properly  cared  for  will  need  is  that  mentioned  above;  but 
after  they  begin  to  bear,  some  of  the  branches  will  often  droop 
so  much  as  to  require  removal,  or  they  may  cross  one  another 
so  as  to  be  injured,  but  in  no  case  should  large  branches  be 
removed  when  it  can  possibly  be  avoided,  as  every  cut  made 
on  the  trunk  or  main  branches  of  a  tree  will  more  or  less 
shorten  its  life.  Broken  branches  should  be  cut  back  to 
the  solid  wood  and  all  dead  branches  be  removed,  but  every 
wound  made  in  this  work  should  be  covered  at  once  with 
linseed-oil  paint,  grafting  wax  or  some  other  preservative. 
Where  large  branches  must  be  removed,  the  saw  should  be 


The  Home  Fruit-garden  359 

used  and  never  the  axe,  as  the  latter  cracks  the  wood  more 
or  less  and  decay  will  follow  much  more  quickly  than  if  the 
saw  is  used.  In  removing  large  branches  always  cut  on  the 
under  side  of  the  branch  first,  that  when  it  falls  the  bark  may 
not  be  torn  from  the  trunk.  Some  of  the  suckers  that  come 
out  along  the  main  branches  should  be  removed  while  they  are 
soft  and  can  be  easily  rubbed  off,  that  the  growth  that  would 
go  into  them  if  allowed  to  remain  may  go  into  the  permanent 
growth  of  the  tree.  Some  of  these  suckers  or  sprouts  should 
be  allowed  to  grow,  especially  those  on  the  lower  main 
branches,  to  renew  and  take  the  place  of  those  that  are  weak. 

The  tops  of  trees  that  tend  to  grow  too  tall  and  spind- 
ling should  be  pinched  off  before  they  have  made  much 
growth,  thus  forcing  the  growth  into  the  lower  branches, 
where  it  is  much  more  desired.  Cuts  made  at  the  ends  of 
the  branches  do  little  or  no  harm  to  the  vitality  of  the 
tree. 

The  rule  should  be  to  prune  from  the  top  branches  rather 
than  from  the  lower  branches.  Many  old  trees  are  much 
benefited  by  cutting  large  branches  from  the  top  and  center, 
thus  forcing  growth  into  the  lower  branches  where  they  may 
be  more  easily  sprayed  and  the  fruit  picked. 

Special  Treatment  for  Growing  Fruits 

THE   APPLE 

This  is  one  of  the  most  healthful  and  easily  grown  of  all  of 
the  fruits  of  the  temperate  zone.  It  succeeds  best  in  a  deep 
moist  loam  and  begins  to  bear  crops  of  some  value  at  from 
five  to  ten  years  from  planting.  For  the  best  result  it 
should  be  planted  at  from  30  to  40  feet  apart,  according  to 
the  variety  and  nature  of  the  soil;  such  varieties  as  the 
Baldwin,  King,  Roxbury  Russet,  Gravenstein,  etc.,  on  rich 
land  will  need  the  larger  space,  while  on  a  light  soil  the 


360  Landscape  Gardening 

smaller  distance  may  be  sufficient.  The  Fameuse,  Porter, 
Astrachan,  etc.,  may  be  planted  even  on  a  rich  soil  at  30  feet 
apart.  Any  of  these  trees  may  be  kept  within  a  less  space 
if  necessary  by  keeping  the  end  branches  headed  in. 

The  varieties  that  will  give  the  best  results  vary  some- 
what in  different  sections  of  the  country,  and  those  who  are 
thinking  of  planting  should  consult  successful  growers  in 
their  own  vicinity.  This  will  apply  to  all  kinds  of  fruits. 
The  author  suggests  the  Astrachan,  Gravenstein,  Baldwin, 
Mclntosh,  Wealthy,  Rhode  Island  Greening,  Button  Beauty, 
and  Roxbury  Russet  as  generally  succeeding. 

Fertilizers. — One  of  the  most  important  conditions  in 
securing  good  fruit  is  sufficient  plant-food  to  give  the  tree  a 
moderately  vigorous  growth  and  healthy  foliage.  To  give 
these  results  on  the  average  soil  will  require,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  tree,  5  to  10  pounds  of  basic  slag,  sown  in  the 
fall  or  winter,  2  to  5  pounds  of  nitrate  soda,  sown  just  as 
growth  is  beginning  in  the  spring,  and  3  to  5  pounds  of  sul- 
phate of  potash,  sown  at  any  time  during  the  winter  or 
early  spring.  These  materials  may  be  mixed  and  sown 
together  or  put  on  separately;  10  to  20  pounds  of  finely- 
ground  bone,  according  to  size  of  tree  and  the  soil,  may  be 
applied  in  place  of  the  basic  slag  and  nitrate  of  soda;  25 
pounds  of  hard-wood  ashes  with  from  2  to  5  pounds  of 
nitrate  of  soda  per  tree  will  also  make  a  good  dressing. 

A  dressing  of  stable  manure  under  the  trees,  at  the  rate 
of  from  5  to  10  cords  per  acre,  according  to  the  soil,  will 
also  give  a  good  growth,  but  some  potash  will  also  be  needed. 
In  all  cases  the  fertilizing-materials  should  be  spread  as  far 
as  the  branches  extend. 

If  other  crops  are  to  be  grown  on  the  same  land  with 
the  apple  trees,  as  in  this  garden-plan,  sufficient  plant-food 
must  be  added  to  the  above  formula  to  provide  for  the 
growth  of  all.  Either  of  the  above  formulas  will  be  suited 


The  Home  Fruit-garden  361 

for  the  other  fruits,  used  at  the  rate  of  about  \  to  f  ton  per 
acre,  but  varying  them  somewhat  according  to  natural  con- 
dition of  the  soil.  If  sufficient  growth  does  not  result, 
more  fertilizer  should  be  used,  and  if  the  growth  is  too  great 
reduce  the  amount  of  nitrate. 

Thinning  the  Fruit. — The  apple,  like  most  of  our  fruit- 
trees,  has  the  habit  of  producing  fruit  only  on  alternate 
years,  which  is  the  result  of  exhaustion  of  the  tree  by  its 
large  crop  of  fruit,  and  it  takes  one  year  at  least  for  it  to 
regain  sufficient  vigor  to  produce  another  crop.  To  over- 
come this  condition,  the  trees  should  be  allowed  to  bear  only 
a  moderate  crop  and  the  land  be  kept  in  a  condition  to 
produce  a  moderately  vigorous  growth  of  the  tree.  It  is 
the  practice  of  many  of  the  most  successful  fruit-growers 
to  thin  their  apple  as  well  as  other  fruit-crops  so  that  the 
trees  will  not  be  weakened  by  overbearing.  This  thinning 
is  done  when  the  fruit  is  about  one-third  grown,  removing 
all  the  wormy  and  imperfect  fruit,  and,  in  some  cases,  one- 
half  or  two-thirds  of  all  on  the  tree.  The  result  of  this  is 
that  there  will  be  little  poor  fruit  to  pick  and  sort;  what 
remains  will  be  larger  and  of  better  quality,  while  the 
quantity  will  probably  be  as  great  as  if  all  had  been  allowed 
to  remain  on  the  tree,  and  the  tree  will  not  be  exhausted,  for 
it  is  the  production  of  the  numerous  seeds  in  the  fruit  that 
weakens  the  tree  more  than  the  production  of  the  pulp  or 
soft  part  of  the  fruit. 

Insects  and  Fungous  Pests. — The  limits  of  this  chapter 
will  not  warrant  a  description  of  the  many  insects  and  fun- 
gous pests  that  are  injurious  to  the  apple  or  the  other 
fruits,  and  the  reader  is  referred  to  such  books  as  Saunders' 
"Insects  Injurious  to  Fruits"  and  "The  Spraying  of  Crops" 
by  Lodeman,  etc.,  and  to  the  directions  for  the  use  of  insecti- 
cides and  fungicides  on  pages  320-327.  On  these  subjects 
the  bulletins  of  the  experiment  sta.tigns  give  the  best  and 


362  Landscape  Gardening 

up-to-date  information   that   can   be   obtained  from  any 
source.    These  bulletins  can  be  had  for  the  asking. 

THE   PEAR 

Although  the  pear  is  not  so  largely  grown  or  highly  prized 
as  the  apple,  it  is  distinctly  a  home  fruit  and  is  easily  grown. 
The  trees  should  be  planted  about  20  feet  apart  and  succeed 
best  in  a  rather  heavy  soil,  but  will  do  fairly  well  on  any 
but  a  very  thin  soil  if  abundantly  fertilized.  The  tree 
grows  in  a  regular  pyramidal  form  and  begins  bearing  earlier 
than  the  apple.  The  treatment  it  requires  as  to  prepara- 
tion of  tree  for  planting,  the  planting,  and  care  are  the  same 
as  for  the  apple  and  need  not  be  repeated  here. 

To  obtain  fruit  of  the  largest  size  and  the  best  quality, 
the  trees  should  make  a  vigorous  growth  and  the  fruit 
be  thinned  as  directed  for  the  apple.  The  fruit  ripens 
better,  is  of  better  color  and  quality,  if  picked  before  quite 
ripe.  The  time  for  this  work  is  indicated  by  the  wormy 
specimens  changing  color  and  becoming  mellow.  For  home 
use  it  is  best  to  gather  the  fruit  as  it  matures,  each  time  pick- 
ing the  largest  specimens  while  they  are  still  hard.  The 
varieties  suggested  as  likely  to  be  most  satisfactory  are 
Clapp,  Bartlett,  Sheldon,  Bosc,  Seckel,  Hovey  and  Lawrence. 

THE  PEACH 

The  peach  can  be  profitably  grown  only  on  high,  rather 
light,  well-drained  land.  It  sometimes  succeeds  when 
planted  on  low  land  with  a  northern  exposure  if  located  near 
the  house,  where  the  cellar  wall  gives  perfect  drainage  and 
the  building  affords  some  shelter  from  severe  cold,  but 
generally  unless  on  elevated  land  the  blossom  buds  are 
destroyed  by  severe  cold  in  most  northern  sections  during 
the  winter.  While  it  may  not  be  advisable  to  plant  the 


The  Home  Fruit-garden  363 

peach  with  expectation  of  profit  on  low  land,  the  trees  cost 
but  little,  the  buds  sometimes  escape  and  a  single  good 
crop  from  a  peach-tree  in  the  home  garden  will  well  repay 
the  labor  and  care  of  growing  and  the  long  years  of  waiting. 
Peach-trees  cannot  be  expected  to  live  very  long  in  any  sec- 
tion of  the  country;  the  average  life  of  the  trees  throughout 
the  country  is  probably  not  more  than  ten  to  twelve  years. 
If  the  land  on  which  the  trees  are  planted  is  very  rich,  it  will 
be  well  to  plant  some  other  crop  among  the  trees  to  check  a 
too-rapid  growth,  or  grow  in  turf  especially  while  the  trees 
are  young,  though  when  a  crop  of  fruit  has  been  set  there 
is  little  or  no  danger  of  making  the  soil  too  rich.  A  moder- 
ately vigorous  growth  from  the  beginning  to  the  end  of  the 
season  gives  the  best  and  most  hardy  wood  and  the  finest 
flavored  fruit,  and  the  latter  should  always  be  ripened  on  the 
tree,  if  possible,  as  it  is  much  better  flavored  than  if  picked 
before  ripe. 

The  best  distance  for  planting  is  15  feet  apart,  and  the 
varieties  that  probably  will  give  the  best  satisfaction  are 
Mountain  Rose,  Crawford  Early,  Crawford  Late,  Elberta, 
Oldmixon  and  Carman. 

THE  PLUM 

Although  plum  trees  are  found  in  most  home  gardens, 
there  is  but  little  profit  or  satisfaction  in  their  growth 
unless  one  is  skilful  in  caring  for  them.  To  succeed  in 
their  growth,  the  trees  should  have  an  abundance  of  room 
— 15  by  15  feet  or  15  by  20  feet — and  be  planted  where 
there  shall  be  a  good  circulation  of  air  about  them.  The 
trees  must  be  sprayed  in  the  spring  before  the  buds 
start,  then  again  as  soon  as  the  blossoms  have  fallen, 
with  lime  sulphur  i  to  50,  and  arsenate  of  lead  3  pounds, 
and  also  when  the  fruit  is  about  one-half  grown  with  the 
Bordeaux  mixture,  one-half  strength,  i.e.,  2  copper  sulphur, 


364  Landscape  Gardening 

3  lime,  50  water.  Then  as  the  fruit  approaches  maturity  the 
lime  sulphur  solution  i  pound  to  50  gallons  of  water  must  be 
used.  The  black  knot  fungus  should  be  cut  off  as  soon  as 
it  appears,  and  if  large  wounds  are  made  on  the  sides  of  the 
branches  they  should  be  painted  with  linseed-oil  paint  with 
a  little  kerosene  in  it.  If  the  plum-curculio  is  abundant, 
it  should  be  destroyed  by  spraying  with  lime  sulphur 
solution  i  to  50  of  water  and  3  pounds  of  arsenate  of  lead. 

Thorough  cultivation  or  an  abundance  of  plant-food 
rich  in  lime,  potash  and  phosphoric  acid  must  be  given, 
especially  when  the  trees  are  heavily  loaded  with  fruit. 
Thinning  must  be  practised  to  improve  the  size  and  quality 
of  the  fruit  and  save  the  trees  from  being  injured  by  over- 
bearing. The  fruit  should  be  allowed  to  become  very  nearly 
ripe  upon  the  trees  before  picking  for  the  best  quality, 
though  for  canning  purposes  they  are  sometimes  picked  as 
soon  as  fully  grown  and  well  colored. 

The  varieties  that  may  be  recommended  are  the  Bradshaw, 
Lombard,  Imperial  Gage,  Green  Gage,  German  Prune 
(Fellemberg),  and  Damson  of  the  European  plums,  and  the 
Wickson,  Abundance,  Burbank,  and  Satsuma  of  the  Japanese 
plums.  The  last-named  variety  is  valuable  only  for  canning. 

In  the  Mississippi  Valley  States  where  the  above  classes  of 
plums  do  not  thrive  varieties  of  the  native  plums  should  be 
planted.  Among  the  best  of  these  are  De  Soto,  Hammer, 
Hawkeye,  Maquoketa,  Miner,  Pottawattamie,  Rollingstone, 
Surprise,  Wayland,  Wild  Goose,  and  Wyant. 

THE   QUINCE 

Two  or  three  quince-trees  in  the  home  garden  will  be  often 
a  source  of  much  satisfaction.  If  there  is  a  low  place 
about  the  grounds,  yet  where  there  is  no  standing  water 
with  especially  rich  soil,  the  quince  will  succeed  under  such 
conditions;  12  X  12  feet  is  a  good  distance  for  planting, 


The  Home  Fruit-garden  365 

and  it  generally  succeeds  best  where  the  land  is  frequently 
cultivated. 

The  quince  is  usually  free  from  serious  diseases,  but  in 
very  wet  and  hot  seasons  the  cedar-apple  rust,  leaf-blight, 
and  fire-blight  sometimes  does  considerable  injury.  Spray- 
ing thoroughly  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture  before  the  leaves 
unfold  and  again  after  the  fruit  has  set  will  be  greatly 
beneficial.  The  flat-  and  round-headed  apple-borers  some- 
times are  seriously  injurious,  and  the  trees  must  be  ex- 
amined once  or  twice  each  year  and  the  borers  dug  out. 

The  varieties  suggested  are  the  Orange,  Reas,  and  Cham- 
pion. 

THE   CHERRY 

Very  few  persons  succeed  in  growing  the  cherry  on  a 
small  scale  from  the  fact  that  the  birds  get  the  largest  share 
of  the  fruit,  or  that  the  fruit  as  it  approaches  maturity  is 
often  destroyed  by  the  brown  rot  if  the  weather  is  warm  and 
moist.  Very  low  trees,  like  those  of  the  sour  cherries,  can  be 
easily  covered  by  a  netting,  and  the  birds  prevented  from 
taking  all  the  fruit,  and  the  use  of  the  Bordeaux  mixture 
while  the  cherries  are  small,  lime  sulphur  and  arsenate  of 
lead,  as  for  the  plum,  while  the  fruit  is  ripening,  will  largely 
prevent  the  rot. 

The  black  aphis  is  the  most  destructive  insect,  causing 
the  leaves  to  curl  up  and  seriously  checking  the  growth  of 
the  young  shoots.  The  remedy  for  this  pest  is  kerosene 
emulsion,  strong  whale-oil  soap  solution  or  strong  tobacco 
water  sprayed  with  sufficient  force  to  reach  the  insects  under 
the  curled  leaves.  Where  there  are  only  a  few  trees  the  curly 
leaves  may  be  picked  off  and  destroyed,  when  the  remaining 
insects  can  be  easily  reached  by  the  spray  material. 

The  trees  will  live  much  longer  if  planted  in  turf  land 
than  if  in  cultivated  garden  soil,  and  as  they  make  very 


366  Landscape  Gardening 

regular  and  shapely  trees  are  well  suited  for  growth  upon 
the  lawn  or  by  the  roadside.  The  amount  of  fertilizers 
needed  is  what  is  just  sufficient  to  make  a  fairly  vigorous 
growth,  too  rapid  growth  often  resulting  in  the  cracking 
of  the  trunk  on  the  south  side  and  an  early  decay  of  the  tree. 
Among  the  best  varieties  may  be  mentioned  Napoleon, 
Gov.  Wood,  Black  Tartarian,  and  Windsor  of  the  sweet 
cherries,  and  Early  Richmond  and  Large  Montmorency  of 
the  sour  kinds.  The  fruit  should  be  gathered  in  dry  weather 
and  be  picked  with  the  stems  attached,  so  that  it  shall  not 
be  crushed  or  bruised;  otherwise  it  will  decay  quickly  after 
gathering. 

THE   GRAPE 

This  is  especially  a  home  fruit,  from  the  fact  that  it 
can  be  grown  on  a  lot  of  the  smallest  size,  as  it  can  be  trained 
over  the  veranda  or  porch,  upon  a  trellis  along  the  side  of 
the  house  or  stable,  walls  or  rocks  with  a  southern  exposure, 
and  produce  a  large  quantity  of  the  most  delicious  and 
healthful  fruit.  It  succeeds  best  in  a  very  warm  location 
and  in  rather  poor  soil,  but  if  planted  where  it  is  close  and 
moist,  with  but  little  air  and  sunlight,  it  is  sure  to  be  attacked 
by  mildews,  rots,  and  anthracnose.  The  conditions  of 
success  in  growing  the  grape  are  a  moderately  vigorous 
growth  of  vine  well  spread  out  to  the  full  sunlight  and  air; 
forcing  the  growth  into  a  few  canes — those  bearing  the  fruit 
the  present  season  and  those  that  are  to  bear  the  fruit  the 
next  season — all  other  parts  of  the  vine  being  prevented  from 
growing  by  pinching  as  soon  as  they  have  made  one  new  leaf 
after  the  last  pinching;  and  thinning  the  fruit  so  that  the 
vines  shall  not  be  exhausted  by  overbearing.  The  fruit 
is  borne  on  the  wood  of  the  present  season's  growth,  and  the 
more  vigorous  this  growth  the  larger  will  be  the  size  of  the 
bunches  and  the  quantity  of  fruit. 


The  Home  Fruit-garden  367 

The  best  support  for  the  vines  to  run  on  is  made  of  No. 
14  or  1 6  galvanized  iron  wire,  as  the  tendrils  of  the  vines 
will  cling  to  this,  it  is  less  expensive,  and  the  vines  require 
less  tying  to  keep  them  in  place  than  if  trained  to  a  wooden 
trellis.  If  trained  against  the  building,  the  vine  should  be 
kept  6  to  10  inches  from  the  wall,  that  the  air  may  better 
circulate  among  the  leaves  and  fruit,  thus  preventing  disease 
of  the  vine  and  the  decay  of  the  woodwork. 

In  very  wet  seasons  mildew  will  attack  the  leaves,  and 
rot  and  anthracnose  the  berries,  and  spraying  becomes  a 
necessity  to  insure  a  crop  under  these  unfavorable  condi- 
tions. The  Bordeaux  mixture  should  be  used  up  to  the 
time  the  fruit  is  one-half  grown,  making  two  applications 
according  to  the  weather. 

Among  the  best  varieties  for  sections  north  of  New  York 
City  may  be  mentioned,  Concord,  Campbell's  Early,  Wor- 
den,  Winchell  (Green  Mountain),  and  the  Delaware.  South 
of  this  latitude  many  other  choice  kinds  may  be  grown. 

THE   BLACKBERRY 

Of  all  garden-fruits  none  is  so  easily  grown  and  yet  so 
often  a  failure  as  the  blackberry.  The  conditions  of  suc- 
cess are  a  good  new  soil,  if  not  a  deep  sandy  loam,  then  a 
deep  well-underdrained  clay  loam.  Plant  in  the  fall  or 
very  early  in  the  spring  in  rows  from  6  to  8  feet  apart  or 
in  hills  4  by  6  feet,  allowing  a  space  of  from  10  inches  to 
i  square  foot  for  each  cane,  and  all  suckers  not  desired 
for  the  next  season's  fruiting  must  be  treated  as  weeds.  It 
is  best  to  allow  the  suckers  not  wanted  to  grow  6  inches  to 
i  foot,  and  then  pull  them  up  rather  than  to  hoe  or  cut 
them  off.  The  critical  time  of  growth  is  when  the  fruit 
is  ripening,  a  large  amount  of  moisture  being  needed  to 
produce  the  best  fruit,  and  to  secure  this  the  surface-soil 
should  be  stirred  once  or  twice  each  week  or  a  mulch  of 


368  Landscape  Gardening 

hay,  straw,  or  other  material  2  or  3  inches  thick  be  spread 
over  the  surface.  At  the  end  of  the  fruiting  season  the  old 
canes  should  be  cut  out  and  the  small  weak  new  canes  be 
cut  or  pulled,  so  that  the  whole  growth  may  be  forced  into 
the  canes  for  the  next  season's  fruit.  It  is  the  practice 
of  most  growers  to  pinch  the  ends  of  the  new  canes  when 
they  are  3  to  4  feet  high,  which  causes  them  to  grow  more 
stocky  and  require  less  support.  In  the  more  northern  sec- 
tions the  canes  are  bent  over  and  covered  lightly  with  soil 
to  prevent  winter-killing.  This  is  a  simple  matter,  and  the 
canes  need  not  be  broken  if  the  soil  is  loosened  a  little  on 
the  south  side  with  a  spading  fork  and  they  are  bent  over 
with  a  strong  pulling  motion.  They  should  be  bent  over 
toward  the  south,  that  the  sun  during  the  winter  may  not 
strike  them  with  direct  rays,  and  should  be  uncovered  and 
placed  upright  as  soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground  in  the 
'spring,  as  they  start  into  growth  earlier  when  lying  on  the 
ground  than  if  standing  upright  and  are  thus  less  liable  to 
be  injured  by  late  frosts. 

To  keep  the  canes  upright  when  loaded  with  fruit,  they 
may  be  tied  to  stakes  or  be  supported  by  tying  the  canes  in 
from  opposite  sides,  one  cane  thus  supporting  the  other. 
No.  14  or  1 6  wires  stretched  on  each  side  of  the  rows  from 
12  to  15  inches  apart  serve  as  good  supports.  When  grown 
on  a  strong  soil,  the  canes  if  made  to  branch  by  pinching 
will  be  large  enough  to  stand  up  without  support. 

The  varieties  that  succeed  at  the  north  are  the  Agawam, 
Snyder,  Eldorado  and  Taylor,  while  further  south  the 
Early  Harvest,  Wilson,  and  Erie  may  prove  more  satisfac- 
tory. 

Under  good  cultivation  the  blackberry  is  very  little 
troubled  by  insect  or  fungous  pests,  but  it  will  generally  be 
best  to  spray  the  bushes  before  they  start  into  growth  and 
again  just  before  the  blossoms  open  with  the  Bordeaux 


The  Home  Fruit-garden  369 

mixture  for  the  leaf-blight,  rust,  and  anthracnose,  which  are 
sometimes  destructive  in  very  moist  and  warm  weather, 
especially  if  the  growth  is  rather  weak. 

THE    RASPBERRY 

The  raspberry  is  successfully  grown  under  about  the  same 
conditions  as  the  blackberry,  but  perhaps  needs  a  somewhat 
richer  soil,  and  as  the  canes  make  a  shorter  growth  may  be 
planted  a  little  closer,  i.e.,  in  rows  5  to  6  feet  apart  or  in 
hills  3  by  6  feet.  The  fruit  of  the  red  raspberry  should  be 
gathered  every  day,  for  if  allowed  to  remain  long  on  the 
bushes  after  ripening  it  is  attacked  by  insects  and  decays 
quickly  in  moist  weather.  The  pruning,  training,  and  care 
are  practically  the  same  as  for  the  blackberry,  and  clean 
cultivation  or  mulching  rather  more  of  a  necessity. 

The  varieties  that  will  probably  give  the  best  results  are 
the  Cuthbert,  Loudon  and  Herbert. 

THE    CURRANT   AND    GOOSEBERRY 

There  is  scarcely  a  home  garden  to  be  found  in  which  an 
attempt  is  not  made  to  grow  the  currant,  but  in  most  cases 
the  bushes  are  planted  in  some  out-of-the-way  place  where 
they  suffer  from  neglect,  and  the  fruit,  while  of  some  value 
for  making  jelly,  is  not  desirable  for  table  use  because  of 
its  small  size  and  seedy  character.  There  is  no  fruit  that 
can  be  improved  so  much  in  size  and  quality  by  good  cul- 
tivation as  the  currant. 

Vigorous  young  plants  one  or  two  years  old  should  be 
planted  in  rich,  rather  moist  soil  in  hills  4  by  6  feet  apart. 
Thorough  and  clean  cultivation  must  be  given  and  an 
annual  dressing  of  two  or  three  shovefuls  of  good  stable 
manure  be  put  about  the  bushes  in  the  fall  or  an  equal  value 
of  some  good  fruit-fertilizer  be  applied  in  the  spring.  This 
fertilizer  should  be  put  at  least  2  feet  from  the  crown  of  the 


370  Landscape  Gardening 

plants,  as  if  put  close  up  to  them  it  causes  weeds  and  grass 
to  grow  in  among  the  canes  which  are  difficult  to  get  out. 

The  pruning  needed  consists  in  cutting  out  the  old  wood, 
i.e.,  that  more  than  three  or  four  years  old,  in  such  a  way 
as  to  give  the  bushes  an  upright  form  and  produce  young 
and  vigorous  wood,  upon  which  only  large  and  fine  fruit 
can  be  grown.  During  the  time  of  ripening  much  fruit 
will  be  saved  from  being  spattered  with  soil  if  a  mulch  of 
2  or  3  inches  is  put  around  under  the  bushes. 

For  home  use  the  best  varieties  are  the  Wilder,  Red  Cross, 
White  Imperial  and  Diploma. 

The  currant- worm  is  the  only  insect  seriously  injurious 
to  this  fruit,  but  unless  it  is  destroyed  will  generally  ruin 
the  crop.  It  comes  on  with  the  early  unfolding  of  the 
leaves,  works  rapidly,  and  requires  only  a  few  days  to  com- 
pletely denude  the  bushes  of  foliage.  Close  watch  must  be 
kept,  and  at  the  first  appearance  of  this  pest  powdered 
hellebore  must  be  applied  while  the  leaves  are  wet  or  be  put 
on  in  water,  a  large  tablespoonful  to  a  pail  of  water,  with 
the  watering-can  or  spraying-pump.  A  second  brood  of 
these  insects  appears  in  about  two  weeks  from  the  first, 
when  a  second  application  of  hellebore  is  necessary. 

Spraying  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture  just  before  the  blos- 
soms open,  and  again  after  the  fruit  has  been  picked,  will 
prevent  the  leaf-blight  that  often  seriously  weakens  the 
bushes. 

The  gooseberry  requires  the  same  treatment  as  the  currant, 
but  must  be  planted  in  a  rather  more  airy  place  to  prevent 
the  mildew  that  often  ruins  the  fruit.  Spraying  with  the 
Bordeaux  mixture  will  sometimes  prevent  this  disease.  If 
the  currants  and  gooseberries  are  planted  together,  the  first 
brood  of  the  currant-worms  will  be  found  largely  on  the 
latter  while  the  second  brood  will  be  on  the  former  only. 

Varieties  recommended  are,  Columbus,  Downing,  Josselyn. 


The  Home  Fruit-garden  371 


THE   STRAWBERRY 

This  is  pre-eminently  a  home  fruit,  because  it  is  so  easily 
grown,  comes  into  bearing  at  one  year  or  less  from  the  time 
of  planting,  and  produces  a  large  quantity  of  fruit  that  is 
much  superior  to  that  which  may  be  found  in  the  markets. 
All  that  is  required  for  success  is  a  deep,  rich,  new  soil, 
thorough  cultivation,  and  a  good  supply  of  moisture  at  the 
time  of  ripening.  A  yield  of  one  bushel  of  fruit  to  the 
square  rod  is  of  very  common  occurrence,  while  two  or  three 
bushels  are  sometimes  produced  under  the  most  favor- 
able conditions.  A  clover  sod  turned  under  makes  about  the 
best  condition,  but  the  soil  should  be  cultivated  at  least  one, 

aaaaaaaaaaaa'aaaaa 

xaxaxaxaxaxaxaxax 

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa 

FIG.  190. 

and  better  two  years  with  some  hoed  crop  to  drive  out  the 
white  grub,  the  larvae  of  the  May  beetle.  Unless  this  is  done 
these  grubs  will  eat  all  of  the  roots  on  the  newly  set  plants. 
The  land  should  be  made  rich  by  ploughing  or  spading  under 
manure  at  the  rate  of  from  10  to  15  cords  per  acre,  and  be 
made  fine  and  mellow  before  planting.  To  this  amount  of 
manure  should  be  added,  at  the  rate  of  from  J  to  J  ton  per 
acre,  any  good  fruit-fertilizer,  and  after  being  thoroughly 
worked  in  to  the  surface  soil  the  plants  be  set  as  early  in  the 
spring  as  the  land  will  work  up  fine  and  mellow. 

The  plants — only  young  plants  with  white  roots  should, 
be  used — may  be  set  in  rows  from  3  to  5  feet  apart  and 
from  i  to  3  feet  in  the  rows,  according  to  the  system  of 
growing  practised.  The  best  berries,  perhaps,  and  a  large 
quantity  of  them,  will  be  produced  if  the  plants  are  set  2 


372  Landscape  Gardening 

feet  by  3  and  three  rows  of  runners  be  rooted,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  190,  where  x  illustrates  the  old  plants  and  a  the  new 
plants.  Every  fourth  row  is  left  unplanted  for  a  path.  After 
the  bed  or  row  has  thus  been  established  all  other  runners 
must  be  pulled  or  cut  off  as  soon  as  started,  and  the  land 
b2  kept  cleanly  cultivated  up  to  the  time  the  ground  freezes 
in  the  fall. 

During  the  winter  the  bed  should  be  covered  with  a  light 
mulch  of  hay,  straw,  or  other  material,  free  from  weed-seeds, 
to  prevent  the  alternation  of  freezing  and  thawing  when 
the  ground  is  not  covered  with  snow.  In  the  spring  after 
growth  begins  this  covering  should  be  drawn  from  the 
crowns  of  the  plants  into  the  space  between  the  rows,  where 
it  will  serve  as  a  mulch  and  protect  the  fruit  from  becom- 
ing covered  with  soil  during  heavy  rains. 

All  weeds  that  appear  in  the  spring  must  be  pulled  out  by 
hand,  as  stirring  the  soil  with  the  hoe  at  this  time  is  not 
advisable. 

The  varieties  are  so  numerous  and  vary  so  much  under 
different  kinds  of  soil  and  location  that  no  list  of  varieties 
of  much  value  can  be  given  that  will  be  successful  in  all 
locations,  and  the  reader  should  consult  some  successful 
grower  in  his  vicinity  and  plant  the  varieties  found  most 
valuable.  The  varieties  suggested  that  may  be  generally 
satisfactory  are  the  Minute  Man,  Brandywine,  Sample 
and  the  Marshall  under  high  culture. 

The  insects  or  fungous  growths  that  are  seriously  injuri- 
ous to  the  strawberry  may  be  largely  overcome  by  thorough 
and  clean  cultivation. 


INDEX 


A 

PAGE 

Abele,  silver  poplar 176 

Actinidia 263 

Advantages  of  home  garden 349 

mixed  hedges 89 

Alternanthera 296 

Alyssum 296 

Amaranthus 296 

Amount  of  land  required 16 

Andromeda 253 

Anemone  Japonica 273 

Aphides 338 

A  plan  of  ornamentation 2 

Apple-borers 334 

Apple,  best  varieties 360 

,  Chinese  double-flowering 179 

,  fertilizers  for 360 

,  insects  and  fungi  injurious  to 361 

,  Parkman's  double-flowering 179 

,  pruning 358 

,  thinning  the  fruit 361 

Apple-trees  for  shade 358 

Aquatic  border-plants -. 315 

plants 304-315 

Aralea,  Hercules'-club 218 

,  Japanese 218 

Arbor-vitae,  American 211 

,  globe 212 

,  golden 212 

,  pyramidal 212 

,  Siberian 212 

Architecture  of  the  house 20 

373 


374  Index 

PAGE 

Arrangement  of  fruit-garden 354 

rooms 26 

trees  and  shrubs 62-81 

for  shelter 63 

screens 64 

Arrowhead  plant 308,  315 

Artificial  system  of  decoration 5 

Ash,  American 160 

,  aucuba-leaved 175 

,  European 175 

,  weeping 193 

Asters,  native 273 

Avenue-trees 155 

,  lists  of 155 

Average  yield  of  fruits 351 

Avoid  too  close  planting  of  hedges 85 

trees 67 

Azalea,  flame-colored 216 

,  Ghent 217 

,  Japanese 217 

,  pink 216 

,  Vaseyii 216 

B 

Back-yard  decoration I35-I39 

Balsams 297 

Banana,  Anyssinian 304 

Bank  walls,  removal  and  covering iio-in 

Barberry,  purple-leaved 218 

,  dwarf,  Thunberg's 219 

Bedding-plants 295 

Bedding-roses 242-243 

Beech,  American 174 

,  copper-leaved 199 

,  European 175 

,  fern-leaved 197 

,  Rivers'  purple 199 

,  weeping 193 

Birch,  canoe 169 

,  cherry  or  sweet 170 


Index  375 

PAGE 

Birch,  European  white 170 

cut-leaved  weeping 190,  191 

,  gray 170 

,  purple-leaved 196 

,  Young's  weeping 190 

Black  walnut 162 

Blackberries 367 

Bladder-fern 317 

Blight,  catalpa  leaf 347 

,  cherry-leaf 347 

,  maple-leaf 347 

,  plum-leaf ". 347 

,  remedy  for 347 

,  rose-leaf 347 

Bloodroot 274 

Blue-gum  tree 304 

Blue  spruce,  Colorado 206 

Bordeaux  mixture 326 

Bordering  walks  with  turf 39 

Borers,  apple 334 

,  maple 331 

>  peach 335 

Box-elder 165 

Boxwood 250 

Broken-stone  road 120 

Buckthorn 268 

Buildings,  location  of 17 

,  relocating  and  improving  old 104 

Bulletins  relating  to  insecticides  and  fungicides 321 

Bulrush 315 

Bur-marigold 315 

Burning  Bush , 225 

Bur-reed 315 

C 

Cacti 304 

Caladium 303 

Calendula 297 

Calliopsis 297 

Calycanthus 220 


376  Index 

PAGE 

Camperdown  elm 195 

Canary-bird  flower 299 

Canker-worm . 332 

Oanna 300 

Carnation 288 

Careful  study  of  art  of  landscape  gardening 3 

Care  of  cemeteries 149 

roads 119 

Castor-bean 302 

Catalpa 171,  199 

Catalpa-blight 347 

Cat-tail 315 

Cedar,  prostrate 209 

,  red 207 

Cellar,  drainage  of 23 

Cemeteries,  care  of 149 

Centaurea,  dusty-miller 296 

Character  of  land 20 

Characteristics  of  trees 51 

Cherry,  care  and  cultivation  of 365 

,  flowering 172 

,  Japanese  weeping 192 

Cherry-blight 347 

Cherry-mildew 347 

Chestnut,  American 170 

,  horse 169 

China- wood 175 

Chinese  cork-tree 181 

wistaria 263 

Christmas  ferns 317 

Cinnamon  ferns 317 

Clematis,  Japanese  sweet-scented 259 

,  purple 258 

,  Virginian 258 

,  white 259 

Climbers,  hardy 253 

Climbing  roses 244 

tender  plants 299 

Clipping  lawns 41 

Close-planting,  avoid 67 


Index  377 

PAGE 

Closet-room,  abundance  of 27 

Cobea  vine 299 

Coffee-tree,  Kentucky 175 

Coleus 296 

Colorado  blue  spruce 206 

Colored  foliage,  trees  with 198 

Columbine 275 

Conditions  for  a  good  road 119 

Construction  of  farm-roads 117 

roads 101 

walks  and  drives 95 

Convenience  in  location  of  house 17 

Copper  sulphate 325 

Cork-tree,  Chinese 181 

Cost  of  house 22 

Covering  bank  walls 1 10  -i  1 1 

wounds  on  injured  trees 51 

Cranberry-shrub 241 

Cucumber  tree 163 

Cultivation  of  fruit  trees 354 

,  too  much  land 114 

Currant,  care  and  cultivation 369 

Curves  of  walks  and  drives 99 

Cut-leaved  ash 196 

beech 196 

birch 190 

green  Japanese  maple 196 

oak 196 

paeonia 286 

purple  Japanese  maple 196 

silver  maple 190 

sumac 232 

variegated  Japanese  maple 196 

Cypress,  Japanese 210 

thread-like 211 

Cypress-vine, , 299 

D 

Dahlia , 294 

Daphne , , . . , , 223 


378  Index 

PAGE 

Day-blooming  water-lilies 312 

Day-lilies 276 

Deciduous  trees,  improving 106 

Decorating  farm-homes 114 

school-yards 141 

Decoration,  home  and  landscape-gardening i 

Description  of  trees 153 

Deutzia,  double-flowered 223 

,  slender 223 

Digging  holes  for  planting  trees 356 

trees  for  planting 57 

Direction  of  walks  and  drives 98 

Distance  for  planting  trees  and  shrubs 53 

Dogwood,  flowering 173 

red 173 

,  red 221 

,  weeping 192 

Drainage  of  cellar 23 

surface-  and  sub-soil 24 

E 

Elder 235 

Elevation  of  house 19 

land  for  home 9 

Elm,  American 155 

,  Camperdown 195 

,  European 159 

leaf-beetle 328 

,  Scotch 188 

,  slippery 159 

Elm-scale 329 

Emulsion,  kerosene 323 

Eschscholtzia 296 

Eulalia,  Japanese 318 

Evergreen  shrubs 249 

,  list  of 250 

trees 203 

,  improving  and  pruning 203 

,  list  of 205 

Exochorda. . .  .226 


Index  379 


Exposure  of  house 19 

Extent  of  walks  and  drives 113 


F 

Farm-homes,  decoration  of 114 

Fences  and  walls,  removal  of in 

Ferns,  bladder 317 

,  Christmas 317 

,  cinnamon 317 

,  hardy 317 

,  maidenhair 317 

,  ostrich 317 

,  rattlesnake 317 

,  rock 317 

,  wall 317 

Fertilizers  for  apples 360 

home  fruit-garden 360 

lawn 42 

strawberries 371 

trees  and  shrubs 62 

Feverfew,  golden 296 

,  hardy 290 

Filbert,  purple 221 

Fir,  Nordmann's 207 

Flag,  variegated 314 

Flowering  plants,  tender 93 

Forms  of  hedges 87 

Fraxinella 276 

Fruit-garden,  arrangement  of 354 

,  home 349 

,  location  of 351 

,  plan  of 350 

,  size  of 351 

Fruit-trees  along  roadways 129 

Fungi  and  fungus-destroyers 324 

,  nature  of,  and  condition  of  growth 324 

Fungicides 324 

Fungi  injurious  to  ornamentals, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,....,,,,,,,,,,,,,  345 


380  Index 


Geraniums 295 

German  iris 279 

Gladiolus 295 

Globe  arbor-vitae 212 

Golden  arbor-vitae 212 

oak 202 

poplar 199 

Golden-bell 226 

,  Fortune's 227 

,  weeping 227 

Golden-glow 290 

Grade,  how  to  obtain 30 

Grading  about  buildings 34~36 

,  preliminary 29 

Grape,  importance  of 366 

,  methods  of  cultivation,  pruning,  etc 366 

,  varieties  of 367 

Grass  for  lawn : 37 

Grass-seed,  quantity  of 38 

Grouping  or  arrangement  of  trees 62-81 

trees  for  ornamentation 66 

,  nature  as  a  guide 67 

H 

Hardy  climbers 253 

ferns 317 

,  list  of 317 

herbaceous  plants 273 

,  transplanting 107 

Harris's  lily 283 

Hawthorn 173 

Hawthorn  mildew 347 

Healthf ulness  of  home  location 8 

Heating  the  house 26 

Hedges 85 

,  forms  of 87 

of  flowering  shrubs 272 

,  plants,  list  of 267 

,  renewing 106 


Index  381 

PAGE 

Hellebore 323 

Hemlock 267 

Hercules'  club 218 

Hibiscus 227 

Hickory,  white 162 

Holly,  American 250 

Hollyhock 277 

Hollyhock-rust 346 

Home,  decoration  of , 5 

,  decoration  of  farm 114 

,  location  of 7 

Honey-locust 175 

Honeysuckle,  Japanese 260 

,  Tartarian 230 

Hop-tree 183 

Horse-chestnut,  common 169 

,  red-flowered 169 

House,  architecture  of 20 

,  elevation  of 19 

,  exposure  of .  . 19 

,  heating  of  the 26 

,  location  of 17 

Hyacinth,  water 313 

Hydrangea,  hardy 227 

,  tender 270 

I 

Implements  for  pruning 89 

Importance  of  evergreen  trees 203 

hardy  climbers 90 

shrubs 214 

walks  and  drives 95 

Improperly  located  buildings in 

walks  and  drives 112 

Improvement  of  evergreen  trees 107 

Improvement  of  roads 113 

roadsides 125-133 

Improving  deciduous  trees 47 

old  homes 104 

Increase  in  value  from  ornamentation 16 


382 


Index 


PAGE 

Indian  currant 239 

Injury  caused  by  fungi 324 

insects 320 

Insecticide 321 

,  bulletins  relating  to 321 

Insects,  common  injurious. 328 

Introduction v-vii 

Iris,  German 279 

,  Japanese , 278 

J 

Japanese  anemone 273 

aralia 218 

azalea 217 

clematis,  sweet-scented 259 

cypress 210 

,  thread-like 211 

hydrangea 227 

iris 278 

lilies: 282 

maples 167-169 

plume  grass  (Eulalia) 318 

quince 222 

roses 247 

snowball 241 

sumac 235 

tree-lilac 240 

woodbine » .  256 

Juniper  (red  cedar) 207 

,  prostrate , , , , '. 209 

K 

Keeping  up  aftergrowth  of  trees,  etc .. . .  62 

Kentucky  coffee-tree ... :. . , ...  175 

Kerosene  emulsion 323 

Kind  of  soil  for  home  grounds 19 

Knowledge  of  materials  for  ornamentation 2 

Kokwa . ,.,..  . ,.,  . ,  .263 


Index  383 
L 

PAGE 

Laburnum 173 

Land,  amount  needed  for  home  ornamentation 16 

,  elevation  and  slope  of 9 

,  strongly  marked  features  of 1 1 

Landscape  gardening  and  home  ornamentation i 

,  a  careful  study  of  the  art  needed 3 

Laurel,  great. 251 

,  mountain 250 

Lawn,  clipping  the 41 

,  dressing  and  renewing 42 

,  fertilizers  for 42 

,  grading  about  building 26-36 

,  grass  and  fertilizer  on  old 109 

,  importance  of  the 33 

,  made  of  turf 40 

,  making  surface  of 34 

,  manuring  the  land  for 33 

,  mowers  for  cutting  the 41 

,  quantity  of  grass-seed  for 38 

,  renovating  old ' 108 

,  reseeding  the 43 

,  settling  the  soil : 37 

,  sowing  grass-seed  on 39 

,  time  for  seeding 38 

Lawn-grasses 37 

Laws  relating  to  ornamental  trees 126 

Leaf-blight  of  catalpa 347 

cherry. .  . 347 

maple .  . 347 

plum 347 

sycamore 347 

Leaf-spot  of  the  rose •••••• 347 

Lilac,  common 239 

,  downy 240 

,  Japanese , 240 

,  Josikea , 240 

,  Persian 239 

Lilac-mildew , 347 

Lilies. .  .281 


384  Index 

PAGE 

Lily,  Bateman's 283 

,  Easter 282 

,  golden-banded 281 

,  hardy  water 309 

,  Harris's 283 

,  lance-leaved 282 

,  Ions-flowered 283 

,  plantain 276 

,  tender  water 311 

,  Turk's  cap 283 

Lily-of-the-valley 293 

Linden,  American 182 

,  European 182 

,  white-leaved 183 

Linden-rust 346 

List  of  aquatic  plants 308-309 

avenue-trees 155 

colored-leaved  trees 198 

cut-leaved  trees 195 

deciduous  shrubs 215-216 

evergreen  shrubs 249 

trees 205 

hardy  climbers 256 

ferns 317 

hedge  plants 267 

ornamental  grasses 318,  319 

rounded-headed  trees 164 

tender  bedding-plants . 295 

climbers 299 

weeping  trees 190 

Location  and  extent  of  walks  and  drives 95 

of  buildings 17 

of  fruit-garden 351 

of  home,  convenience  of 8 

,  healthfulness 8 

,  near  schools,  etc 9 

,  on  main  or  side  street 9 

Locust,  honey 175 

Lotus,  species 309 


Index  385 

M 

PAGE 

Macadam  or  broken-stone  road 1 20 

Magnolia,  cucumber 1 79 

,  showy 1 70 

,  Soulange's 1 79 

,  swamp 181 

,  umbrella 1 79 

Maidenhair  fern 317 

Making  surface  of  lawn 34 

Manuring  the  land  for  lawn 33 

strawberries 371 

Maple,  English 165 

,  Japanese 167,  169,  195,  196, 198 

cut-leaved  green 196 

purple 196 

variegated 196 

golden 202 

purple-leaved 198 

,  Norway 165 

,  red 167 

,  Reitenbach's 198 

,  Schwedler's 165,  198 

,  silver 160 

,  sugar 160 

,  sycamore 166 

,  Tartarian 167 

,  Wier's  cut-leaved 190 

Maple-borer 331 

Maple-scale 341 

Marigold 296 

Mignonette 297 

Mildew 347 

of  cherry 347 

hawthorn 347 

lilac 347 

plum 347 

rose 347 

willow 347 

,  remedies  for 347 

Mist-plant 232 


386  Index 


Mock-orange,  fragrant 230 

,  golden 232 

,  large-flowered 232 

Mountain  ash,  American 183 

,  European 183 

,  oak-leaved 183 

laurel 250 

rhododendron '. 252 

Mulberry 181 

,  weeping 194 

N 

Nasturtium 296 

Natural  vs.  artificial  systems 5 

system  explained 5 

Nature  as  a  guide  in  planting 78 

Nelumbo,  East  Indian 309 

,  Egyptian 309 

,  native 309 

,  striped  Japanese 309 

,  white  Japanese 309 

Night-blooming  water-lilies 312 

Nordmann's  fir 207 

Norway  maple 165 

spruce 205 

Nozzles  for  spraying-pumps . .  327 

O 

Oak,  chestnut -187 

,  English 187 

,  cut-leaved 187 

,  fern-leaved 187 

,  golden-leaved • 202 

,  purple-leaved 187,  202 

,  pyramidal 187 

,  variegated : 187 

,  pin 186 

,  red 160 

,  scarlet 187 


Index  387 

PAGE 

Oak,  swamp  white •> 185 

,  white ... 185 

Old  trees,  improving 47 

Ostrich  fern 317 

Oyster-shell  scale 340 

P 

Pampas-grass 318 

Pansy 297 

Papyrus 303 

Paris  green 321 

used  dry 321 

with  Bordeaux  mixture 321 

plaster,  flour,  etc 321 

water 321 

Parkman's  flowering  apple 1 79 

Parks  and  public  squares 137 

Parrot's  feather 315 

Pea,  sweet .' 298 

Peach-borer 335 

Peach,  best  varieties 363 

,  flowering 178 

,  land  best  suited  for  growth  of 363 

Pear,  best  varieties 362 

,  land  best  suited  for 362 

Peony,  Chinese , 286 

,  cut-leaved 286 

,  tree , , 285 

Pepper-bush,  sweet 220 

Persian  insect-powder 323 

lilac 239 

Petunia 296 

Phlox,  garden 286 

,  (moss-pink) 287 

Pickerel-weed 315 

Pin  oak 186 

Pine,  Austrian . 209 

,  long-leaved 209 

,  stone 209 

,  white  or  Weymouth 209 


388  Index 

PAGE 

Pink,  carnation 288 

moss 287 

Plan  of  arranging  ornamental  trees 45 

Plan  of  fruit  garden 350 

house 21 

strawberry-bed 371 

Plane-tree 176 

Planting  fruit-trees  for  ornament 116 

in  home  garden 351 

ornamental  trees 59 

unprofitable  land  with  ornamental  and  forest  trees 116 

Plum,  best  varieties 364 

,  cultivation  of  the 363 

,  flowering 1 78 

leaf-blight 364 

,  purple-leaved 200 

Plum-mildew 364 

Plumbing 28 

Plume-grass,  Japanese  common 318 

zebrina 318 

gracillema 319 

variegated 318 

Poplar,  black 177 

,  Bolles' 176 

,  golden 199 

,  silver 177 

,  Lombardy 177 

Poplar-rust 346 

Poppy,  oriental 289 

,  plume 288 

,  water 314 

Porcupine-plant 314 

Portulacca 296 

Preparation  of  land  for  fruits 356 

ornamental  trees 55 

shrubs 85 

Preserve  choice  native  trees  and  shrubs 128 

Privet 268 

Prostrate  juniper 209 

Pruning  hedges 88 


Index  389 


Pruning  hedges,  implements  for 89 

,  time  for 89 

old  trees 50 

roses 242 

shrubs 84 

trees  for  transplanting 57 

Pumps  for  the  use  of  insecticides  and  fungicides 327 

Purple  clematis 258 

Purple-leaved  barberry 218 

beech : 199 

birch 198 

filbert 221 

maples 198 

oak 187 

Pyramidal  arbor-vitae 212 

Pyrethrum 290 

Pyrethrum-powder , , ,  f , ,  f , , , , ,  323 

Q 

Quince,  best  varieties 365 

,  common 364 

,  Japanese 222 

R 

Raspberry,  best  varieties 369 

,  cultivation  of 369 

Rattlesnake  fern 317 

Redbud 1 73 

Red  cedar 207 

dogwood 221 

oak 160 

spider 338 

Red-fruited  elder 235 

Red-twigged  willow 182 

Reitenbach's  maple 198 

Removal  of  fences  and  walls in 

Renewal  of  old  evergreens „ 107 

Renewing  old  shrubs  and  hedges 106 

Renovating  old  cemeteries 149 

Reseeding  lawns 43 


390  Index 

PAGE 

Retinispora  61ifera 211 

picifera 210 

Ribbon-grass 319 

Rivers'  purple  beech •. 199 

Roads,  and  roadside  improvements 125 

,  broken  stone  or  macadam 120 

,  conditions  necessary  for  good 119 

,  construction 101 

of  farm ! ..• 117 

,  repairing 123-124 

,  surface  of 121 

,  width  of 1 23 

Roadsides,  as  a  dumping-place : 126 

,  Care  of  trees  along 126 

,  fruit  along ,..  116 

,  improvement  of ' 125 

,  laws  relative  to  trees  along 1 26 

,  ornamental  shrubs  along 1 29 

,  removal  of  fences  along 133 

Rocks  and  ledges  in  ornamental  grounds . n 

Rocky  Mountain  columbine 375 

Rose,  insects  injurious  to  the 335~339 

Rose  of  Sharon 227 

Roses 241 

,  bedding 242 

,  climbing 244 

,  Japanese 247,  268 

,  moss 247 

,  pruning 242 

,  varieties 242 

,  winter  protection. ...      242 

,  yellow ; 244 

Rose-chafer 335 

Rose-flowered  water-lilies 309 

Rose-leaf  hopper 337 

Rose-mildew 347 

Rose-rust 346 

Rose-slug 336 

Round-headed  trees,  list  of 165 

Rudbeckia 290 


Index  391 

PAGE 

Rules  for  grouping  trees 68 

Rust,  hollyhock 346 

,  linden 346 

,  poplar 346 

,  rose 346 

,  remedy  for 346 

S 

Salvia,  scarlet 296 

Salvinia 314 

Scale  insect,  oyster-shell 340 

,  San  Jose 340 

Scarlet  oak 187 

School-yards,  decoration  of 141 

Schwedler's  maple 165 

Scope  of  home  ornamentation 2 

Scotch  elm 188 

Scouring-rush 315 

Screens,  trees  for 64 

Seed,  grass 37 

,  quantity  per  acre 38 

,  sowing  grass 39 

Seeding  lawn  before  planting  trees,  etc 37 

,  time  for 38 

Selection  of  varieties  of  trees,  etc 51 

Settling  the  soil 37 

Shadbush 169 

Shed-room  in  outbuildings 27 

Shelf-room  in  house 27 

Shrubs,  evergreen 249 

,  list  of  varieties 215 

,  ornamental 214 

,  planting  and  pruning ' 84 

,  preparing  land  for 82 

,  renovating  old 106 

,  two  methods  of  grouping 83 

Siberian  arbor-vitae ...  212 

Silver-thorn .....; » 225 

Silver -bell ; 227 

Silver  maple 160 


392  Index 

PAGE 

Silver  poplar 176 

Silvery  actinidia 263 

Size  of  fruit-garden 351 

Slender  deutzia 223 

Slippery  elm 159 

Slope  of  land  for  fruit-garden 251 

Snapdragon 296 

Snowball,  common 241 

,  Japanese 241 

Snowberry 239 

Soil  for  aquatics 308 

fruit-garden 352 

ornamentals -. 10 

Spider,  red 338 

Spirea,  Anthony  Waterer 239 

,  bridal-wreath 235 

,  Bumald's 236 

,  golden 235 

,  lobed 236 

,  Thunberg's 238 

,  Van  Houtte's 239 

Spot,  rose-leaf 347 

Spraying-pumps 327 

Spruce,  Colorado  blue 206 

,  Norway 205 

,  weeping 206 

,  white 205 

St.  John's  wort,  shrubby 229 

Stone  walls,  removing 118 

Strawberry . 371 

,  cultivation  and  care  of 371, 372 

Strawberry-bed,  plan  of 371 

Strawberry-tree 225 

Street-  and  avenue-trees. . 155 

,  list  of 155 

Striped  nelumbo 309 

Strongly  marked  features,  preserve n 

Subtropical  plants 300 

Sugar-maple 160 

Sulphate  of  copper 325 


Index  393 

PAGE 

Sulphate  of  copper  solution 325 

Sumac,  cut-leaved 232 

stag-horn ..... 235 

Japanese 235 

Sunflower,  hardy 291 

Sunlight  in  all  rooms 25 

Surface  of  roads 121 

Surface-  and  sub-drainage 102 

Sweet  birch 1 70 

gum 179 

pea 298 

pepper-bush 221 

Sycamore  or  plane-tree .- 176 

leaf-blight 347 

maple 166 

Syringa 230 

Systems  of  landscape  gardening,  geometrical 5 

,  natural 5 


T 

Tartarian  maple 167 

Tender  bedding-plants 295 

climbing  plants 299 

foliage  and  flowering  plants 295 

water-lilies 309 

Thurlow's  weeping  willow 195 

Transplanting  hardy  herbaceous  plants 107 

trees  and  shrubs 59 

Trees,  arrangement  or  grouping  of 62 

,  avenue  or  street 155 

,  avoid  too  close  planting 67 

,  characteristics  of 45 

,  classification  of  varieties 153 

,  covering  wounds  on 51 

,  deciduous,  improving 106 

,  description  of 153 

,  digging  for  planting 56 

,  distance  for  planting 52 

,  evergreen ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,.,,  rr ,,,,, ,  -  - . . .  203 


394  Index 

.  PAGE 

Trees,  evergreen,  transplanting  and  pruning 203 

for  screens 69 

for  shelter 63 

,  improving  old 47 

,  keeping  up  an  aftergrowth 62 

,  nature  as  a  guide . . 67 

,  plan  of  arrangement 45 

,  planted  along  narrow  roadways 53 

,  planting  before  seeding  lawn 39 

,  preparation  of  soil  for  planting 55 

,  pruning  and  transplanting 57 

,  pruning  old 47 

,  rules  for  grouping 68 

,  selection  of  varieties 51 

,  size  of  trees  to  plant 52 

,  time  for  planting 54 

,  watering  and  mulching '..'.'.' '..".' 61 

with  colored  foliage 198 

cut  foliage 195 

round  heads 164 

weeping  forms JL 190 

Trumpet-creeper 264 

Turk's  cap  lily , , ,,,,,,.,,. .'.'.' 283 

U 

Umbrella  magnolia 179 

Use  of  cellar 23 

V 

Van  Houtte's  spirea 239 

Variegated  cut-leaved  maple 196 

dogwood 221 

flag 314 

Japanese  plume-grass 318 

oak 187 

weigela 223 

Varieties  of  apples 360 

blackberries 368 

cherries 366 

currants , , , , ,  370 


Index  395 

PAGE 

Varieties  of  evergreen  shrubs 250 

grapes 367 

peaches 363 

pears 362 

plums 364 

quinces 365 

raspberries 369 

strawberries 372 

Vasey's  azalea 216 

Virgin's  bower 258 

W 

Walks  and  drives 293 

bordered  with  turf 39 

,  construction  of 101 

,  direction  of 98 

,  how  to  obtain  curves  of 99 

,  importance  of 95 

,  improving  old 112 

,  location  of 97 

,  width  of 98 

Walls  and  tences,  removal  of 133 

Walnut,  black. 162 

Water,  good  supply  of 9 

,  open  outlet  of  lakelet 15 

,  underground  outlet  of  lakelet 15 

Water-hyacinths 313 

Water-lilies,  European 311 

,  hardy 309 

rose-flowered • 309 

yellow-flowered 311 

,  tender  day-blooming 31,2 

night-blooming 312 

Water-plantain 315 

Water-poppy 314 

Watering  trees  after  planting 61 

Weeping  ash 193 

birch,  cut-leaved 190 

,  Young's 190 

dogwood 192 


396  Index 

PAGB 

Weeping  elm,  Camperdown 195 

golden-bell 227 

Japanese  cherry _ 192 

maple,  Wier's  cut-leaved 190 

mulberry 194 

trees,  list  of 190 

willows,  Babylon 194 

,  purple 195 

,  Thurlow's 195 

"Well"  about  roots  of  trees 32 

Whale-oil  soap 323 

White  clematis 259 

Japanese  nelumbo 309 

oak 185 

pine 209 

spruce 205 

wistaria 263 

White-fringe 232 

-leaved  linden 183 

Width  of  roadbed 1 23 

Wild  cucumber 299 

Wild  rice 315 

Winter  protection  of  evergreen  shrubs 249 

roses 242 

strawberries 368 

Wistaria,  Chinese 263 

,  white 263 

Y 

Yellow  roses 244 

Young's  weeping  birch 190 

Yucca  or  Adam's  needle-and-thread  plant 292 


UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA 
BRANCH    OF    THE    COLLEGE    OF    AGRICULTURE 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW 


1  1929 

UCD 


3 


5m-8,'26 


45611? 

SB473 

Maynard,  I 

PUT. 

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>e  gardening 

1915 

as  applie< 

L  to  home 

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